Bookshelf. Designing a model design for an elegant women's dress for an individual consumer, taking into account his appearance Designing women's clothing for an individual consumer

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1 DON STATE TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY DEPARTMENT OF DISTANCE LEARNING AND DEVELOPMENT OF QUALIFICATIONS Department “Design of construction of light industry products” TRAINING MANUAL for conducting practical classes in the discipline “Design of clothing for an individual consumer” Authors Lebedeva E.O. Gerasimenko M.S. Rudenko E.E. Rostov-on-Don,

2 Management Design of distance learning clothing for individual and consumer training Abstract The textbook contains theoretical information on sections of the training course and methodological developments, ensuring effective practical learning educational material in the discipline “Designing clothing for individual consumers.” The workshop is intended for students studying in the field of “Design of light industry products” of all forms of education. Authors Candidate of Technical Sciences, Associate Professor Elena Olegovna Lebedeva Candidate of Technical Sciences, Associate Professor Maria Sergeevna Gerasimenko Candidate of Technical Sciences, Associate Professor Elena Evgenievna Rudenko 2

3 Contents Introduction... 4 Laboratory work 1 Development of preferred options for clothing models for an individual consumer... 6 Laboratory work 2 Features of constructing clothing designs using the unified TsOTSHL method... 16 Laboratory work 3 Development of patterns for clothing parts in individual production conditions.. .23 Laboratory work 4 Features of cutting products using patterns of basic designs...44 Laboratory work 5 The sequence of manufacturing clothes according to individual orders of the population. Features of processing products with fittings. principle of fitting...55 Laboratory work 6 Features of the design of trousers for figures with deviations from the typical physique...60 References...65 APPENDIX A (mandatory)...67 APPENDIX B (recommended)...69 APPENDIX C (recommended)...71 APPENDIX D (mandatory)...82 APPENDIX E (mandatory)...84 APPENDIX G (mandatory)...89 APPENDIX H

4 INTRODUCTION refers to the cycle of professional disciplines studied by students during the implementation of basic undergraduate educational programs in the field of preparation “Design of light industry products.” Laboratory classes are the link between theory and practice. Their implementation will contribute to the deepening and consolidation of theoretical knowledge, the practical study of methods for performing design and engineering work, and the development of general professional, production design, design and organizational and managerial competencies. Before the start of classes, the teacher conducts an oral survey of students, determining their level of preparation for classes. Laboratory work, depending on the content, is performed by each student independently or by a group of two to three people. A report on the results of the work is compiled by each student independently, and it is recommended to adhere to the following sequence: indicate the name of the topic; Objective; exercise; literature; initial data; calculations and results of the work done, presented in the form of tables, figures, diagrams, drawings, analysis of the results of the work in the form of output. Drawings are made on graph paper on a scale of 1:1. The drawings are first presented to the teacher for signature (to be outlined in fine lines) and again (after tracing) when passing the test for this work. The student receives credit for each laboratory work after completing the report and drawings. The organization of work in the design and manufacture of clothing for an individual consumer has its own distinctive features. At the same time, at the very first stage of design, it is necessary to “link” the choice of model with the external appearance of the model (customer) and, if possible, to see and take into account the individual characteristics of his personality. Therefore, when conducting laboratory work in the discipline “Designing clothing for an individual consumer,” students must, using previously acquired knowledge and skills, learn to see an objective image of the customer in a future product, study the features of his figure and find artistic and technical means that can “mask” physique flaws and underline 4

5 advantages. Carrying out calculations and constructing a design drawing for a specific model, taking into account the customer’s physique and fabric properties, will allow us to design a product that is highly compatible with the consumer’s figure. 5

6 LABORATORY WORK 1 DEVELOPMENT OF PREFERRED OPTIONS FOR CLOTHING MODELS FOR AN INDIVIDUAL CONSUMER Purpose of the work: to determine the physique features of an individual consumer’s figure, to master the methodology for selecting preferred options for silhouette, constructive and compositional-decorative solutions for clothing models Task: 1. Determine the physique features of a specific figure of an individual consumer. 2. Select the preferred options for silhouette, constructive and compositional-decorative solutions for clothing models for the specific figure of the individual consumer. 3. Analyze the results of the work and formulate conclusions. Equipment and materials: measuring tape, thick compass, height meter, catalogs of clothing models and fashion magazines. Recommended reading: . Methodical instructions Students perform the work in groups of two or three people. Each student conducts their own analysis individual characteristics physique of the figure and develops recommendations for choosing the preferred options for silhouette, constructive and compositional-decorative solutions for clothing models for the analyzed figure of the individual consumer. 1.1 Determination of the body features of a specific figure of an individual consumer To compile the dimensional characteristics of the figure of an individual consumer, it is necessary to perform a number of measurements, 6

7 based on the requirements of the selected design methodology. The measurement results are presented in Table 1.1. The list of dimensional characteristics of female and male figures according to the Unified TsOTSL Method is presented in Appendix A in Table A.1. If necessary, students complete additional measurements presented in Appendix A in Table A.2. Table Dimensional characteristics of a typical and specific figure of an individual consumer (specify size*) Name Conventional Measurement size, Difference, dimensional prism cm sign designation typical figure specific figure Basic dimensional characteristics Height P 170.0 168.4 1.6 Additional dimensional characteristics Distance between the nipple points Tsg 10 (* R-O giii -Ob or R-O giii -O t) The difference (column 5) is determined as column 3 minus column 4. At the end of the measurements, it is necessary to analyze the data obtained by comparing the measurements and ratios of the measurements of a typical figure and the figure of the individual consumer of appropriate height, chest girth and fullness. A comparative analysis of the ratios of measurements of a typical and specific figure of an individual consumer is presented in tabular form (Table 1.2). 7

8 Table Comparative analysis of the ratios of measurements of a typical and specific figure of an individual consumer Ratio of measurements (specify the size) Value of ratios for a typical figure for a specific figure Difference of ratios, cm Shs-Shg II Cg II -Cg I Shs-Shg Dtp II -Dts II Vpk II - Dts II Note: For standard figures and figures close to standard, the measurement Shg II can be determined by the formula Shg II = Shg + 0.8 (Cg II - Cg I). The difference in ratios (column 4 of table 1.2), defined as column 2 minus column 3, makes it possible to clarify the features of the customer’s physique: posture, protrusion of the mammary glands, shoulder height. When studying the individual physique characteristics of a particular consumer, the position and shape of the neck, back, abdomen, chest, the shape of the waist part of the figure, the development of muscles and fat deposits and their distribution, body proportions, etc. are determined. The shape of the neck has a direct impact on the choice of options the design of the neck of the product, the design of the collar and the type of fastener. The shape of the side surface of the neck can be cylindrical or conical. There is also a conical shape, expanding towards the base of the neck, and a conical shape, expanding towards the head. The neck can be short, normal and long, and depending on the degree of muscle development and the degree of fat deposits, thin, normal and plump. At the base of the neck, as a rule, it has an elliptical cross-sectional shape, somewhat flattened from the back. However, in some cases this section can 8

9 be round or in the shape of a horizontal or vertical ellipse. In the sagittal (profile) plane, the neck tilts forward. This tilt is due to the curvature of the spinal column (lordosis) and ranges from 7 0 to The structural features of the shoulder region of the body include the shape and size of the shoulders. Shoulders can be normal, low or high. In this case, the height of the shoulders Vp (vertical distance from the shoulder point to the horizontal plane passing through the seventh cervical vertebra) is correspondingly equal to 6.2 ± 0.75 cm; 7.7 ± 0.75 cm; 4.7 + 0.75 cm. According to the width of the shoulder slope, defined as the distance between the acromial point and the base of the neck, the shoulders can be wide, narrow or normal width. These features of the shoulder girdle are taken into account when designing the shoulder lines of the back and front of products. The shape of the chest area is determined by the shape of the chest. There are three main types of chest shape: cylindrical, flat and conical. The cylindrical type is characterized by a wide, evenly rounded chest. The flat type is characterized by increased chest. People of this type are characterized by a narrow, long body. In the conical type of chest shape, it expands slightly downwards. Therefore, people of this type have a wide, flat body. female figures The shape of the chest area is also characterized by the shape and degree of development of the mammary glands. There are three main shapes of the mammary glands: flat, spherical and conical. Mammary glands can be strongly, moderately and poorly developed; high, normal and low. When designing custom-made clothing, it is very important to correctly determine the features of the shape, size and location of the mammary glands. The correct determination of the solution, the position and length of the chest dart, and the width of the shelf of the product depends on this. The abdominal region of the body (stomach) can have various shapes. In both male and female figures, the stomach can be flat, convex, with a high or low roundness, or have the shape of a truncated cone, with the large base facing up or down. In figures with abundant subcutaneous fat deposits, the abdomen often sags in the form of folds of fat and protrudes strongly forward. When designing clothes, additional measurements are taken on such figures, 9

10 taking into account the level of the protrusion of the abdomen and the width of the front at the level of the protrusion of the abdomen. The shape of the posterior (dorsal) surface of the body varies depending on the nature of the curves of the spine, the degree of protrusion of the shoulder blades, muscle development and the size of fat deposits. The back may have a normal rounded shape with small indentations between the shoulder blades, it can be flat or with enlarged indentations. The shape of the lower part of the body is determined not only by the shape of the abdomen, but also by the shape of the pelvis, buttocks, the degree of development of the hips, the size and nature of the location of fat deposits. Depending on the transverse diameter of the hips, the degree of muscle development and subcutaneous fat layer, figures with narrow, normal and wide hips, as well as with high or low roundness of the hips are distinguished; with symmetrical in shape and size and asymmetrical hips. The gluteal muscles are involved in the formation of the profile projection of the lower part of the body, the shape of which can also have its own characteristics. When assessing the shape of the buttocks, there are normal, flat, protruding buttocks with high and low roundness. The shape of the upper limbs is determined by the relative position of the longitudinal axes of the shoulder and forearm in the natural position of the arms. The shape of the upper limbs is considered normal if these axes form an obtuse, externally open angle, equal to an average of 164 in women and men. There are options when the arms are more bent at the elbow or, conversely, straightened. The position of the shoulder relative to the body can also be different: vertical, anterior, posterior. There are thin and plump, normal, muscular and sinewy arms depending on the degree of development of the mouse and the subcutaneous fat layer. The lower limbs are various shapes: normal, O-shaped, X-shaped, L-shaped (compass legs). Affects the shape of the lower extremities and the position of the toes: the toes may be turned inward or diverge excessively. Depending on the degree of development of the muscles and subcutaneous fat layer, the legs can be normal, muscular, sinewy, thin and full, uniform or with localized fat deposits in certain areas, for example in the thighs and calves. Proportions human body this is the ratio of the sizes of its individual parts. Proportions have a significant impact on the external shape of the body. There are three main types of pro- 10

The 11 body portions most common in men and women are: dolichomorphic, mesomorphic and brachymorphic. The dolichomorphic type is characterized by relatively long limbs and a narrow, short body. The brachymorphic type is characterized by relatively short limbs and a long, wide body. The mesomorphic type is an average type, occupying an intermediate position between the dolichomorphic and brachymorphic types. Posture is one of the most important characteristics of the human body shape necessary for designing clothes. In the sewing industry, posture is usually characterized by projection measurements: the position of the body Pk and the height of the shoulders Vp. At the same time, depending on the position of the body of the PC, three types of posture are distinguished: stooped (S), normal (H) and straightened (B). Based on the height of the shoulders, figures are classified as low-shouldered, normal and high-shouldered (Table 1.3). Table Types of body posture of male and female figures of average size, height and fullness Type of body posture Value of the posture sign, cm Men Women By body position Slouched 10.1 ± 1 8.2 ± 1 Normal 8.1 ± 1 6.2 ± 1 Straightened 6.1 ± 1 4.2 ± 1 By shoulder height Low-shoulder 7.9 ± 0.75 7.4 ± 0.75 Normal 6.4 ± 0.75 5.9 ± 0.75 High-shoulder 4.9 ± 0, 75 4.4 ± 0.75 A figure with normal posture corresponds to a slight tilt of the head and neck forward, straight posture of the body, a slightly rounded back with a slight protrusion of the shoulder blades; the difference between the length of the front and back to the waist line, equal to the difference 11

12 between these measurements for a typical figure*. A straightened figure is characterized by a very slight tilt of the neck forward, a slightly tilted head back, a tilted body back, turned shoulders, a straight back without protruding shoulder blades; an expanded, often developed chest, a reduced length of the back to the waistline and an increased length of the front, a reduced width of the back and an increased width of the chest compared to similar measurements of a typical figure. A stooped figure is characterized by an increased forward tilt of the neck and head, a forward-leaning body, and forward-turned shoulders; rounded, often with noticeably protruding (convex) shoulder blades, and therefore an extended back; sunken and narrow chest, increased length of the back and reduced length of the front. An analysis of the individual body features of the consumer’s figure can be carried out on the basis of the anthropomorphological classification of women’s body types, developed by the Central Experimental and Technical Sewing Laboratory. The contours of the human body are determined by the ratio of the transverse and anteroposterior diameters of the circumferences of the hips and chest (d pg, d pb, d pzg, d pzb). Based on the measurements obtained, it is established what type of figure (from the front view and from the side view) a specific figure of an individual consumer belongs to. Features of the physique of an individual consumer, identified in the process of measurement and study, are presented in tabular form (Table 1.4), as well as in the form of a description of the external appearance in the form presented in Appendix B. 12

13 Anthropometric belt Table 1.4 Features of the structure of a specific figure of an individual consumer Design parameter (specify size) Feature of the structure of the figure 13 Characteristics of the parameter of the figure Size, cm of a typical specific Designation Shoulder Shoulder width Wide Sh 13.8 14.5 Shoulder slope High W 6.2 4 .7 Degree of development Pectoral deltoid - Full Op 27.5 29.1 arm muscle Chest height Low Vg II 25.4 26.2 Body Line level High waist waist Vl.t 103.6 104.3 Waist depth Bend posture Gt I 4.5 5.6 Thigh Shape of buttocks Normal Gt II 4.8 4.8 Calf Height of the knee point Typical Vk 45.4 45.6 1.2 Selection of preferred options for silhouette, constructive and compositional-decorative solutions for clothing models for a specific figure of an individual consumer On At this stage, students are asked to develop models (3-4 models) of clothing that visually hide or correct flaws and emphasize the advantages of a specific figure of an individual consumer. Students choose silhouette, constructive and compositional-decorative solutions for clothing models preferred for a particular consumer independently or according to their work, as well as using Appendix B.

14, the key phase of this stage of laboratory work is “dressing” the image of a specific figure of an individual consumer in a graphic image of the previously selected preferred clothing model, with a detailed drawing of constructive and compositional-decorative solutions. An example of depicting a figure and “dressing” it in a graphic image of the preferred clothing model is shown in Figure 1.1. Figure An example of depicting the figure of an individual consumer and “dressing” him in a graphic image of the preferred clothing model 1.3 Analysis of the results of the work and formulation of conclusions At the conclusion of the work, students need to analyze the identified features of the physique of the individual consumer and provide recommendations for choosing the clothing model that is preferable for him. 14

15 Test questions 1. The procedure for taking dimensional characteristics when measuring the figure of an individual consumer. 2. What measuring instruments are used when taking dimensional characteristics of an individual consumer’s figure? 3. Classification of women’s body types, developed by the Central Experimental and Technical Sewing Laboratory. 4. What are the options? constructive solution Can you offer clothing models for the customer's figure? 15

16 LABORATORY WORK 2 FEATURES OF BUILDING CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION USING THE UNIFIED TSOTSHL METHOD Purpose of the work: mastering the methodology for constructing clothing of various assortments using the Unified TSOTSHL Method Task: 1. Study the features of constructing the design of clothing of various assortments according to the Unified TSOTSHL Method for various body types. 2. Complete technical drawing and description appearance designed clothing model for an individual consumer. 3. Determine the initial data for constructing a model design for a model of clothing of a given assortment in the manufacture of clothing for an individual consumer. 4. Perform calculations and build a model structure of the main parts of the designed model, taking into account the studied features of the physique of a specific figure of an individual consumer. 5. Analyze the results of the work and formulate conclusions. Equipment and materials: fashion direction for the future period, measuring tape, shoulder pad, elastic band, drawing supplies, graph paper. Recommended literature: Methodological instructions Students perform laboratory work using the data obtained in laboratory work 1, presented in the table Studying the features of constructing the design of clothing of various assortments according to the Unified Method of TsOTSL 16

17 For the production of clothing for individual consumers, the Unified Method of Clothing Design TsOTSHL is used. The “Unified Method for Designing Clothing” was developed by TsOTSL on the basis of the calculation and analytical method, according to which design drawings are constructed using geometric and graphic scans of the smoothed contours of the human figure. This takes into account necessary increases for a loose fit and decorative design products. In the Unified Method, some complex calculations are simplified or replaced by dimensional characteristics. The initial data for constructing drawings are the dimensional characteristics of typical figures, taken from tables of anthropometric measurements of female and male figures, after directly measuring the figure and determining the corresponding standard size. The construction of each structural unit is based on the measurements of the corresponding section of the figure. Thus, as a rule, the entire base drawing is built according to the dimensions of the standard figure. The designed shape of the product and its high-quality fit on the figure are ensured by certain design means: the appropriate choice of allowances for a loose fit, the introduction of seams, reliefs, darts and the appropriate design of lines. Unlike other clothing design systems, the calculation and graphic system provides for a preliminary calculation of the structures of the designed product, which allows you to pre-set the size of the increases in all sections of the product, the dimensions of the sections themselves, and the desired sleeve width. Preliminary calculation includes the following steps: 1. Determination of the basic parameters of the basic grid of the product design drawing: Grid width A 0 a 1 = Cr III + Pg + Pr, where Pr is the outlet of the midline of the back + solutions of vertical seams and darts along the chest line Back width A 0 a = Shs + Pshs Front width: 1) a 1 a 2 = Shg II + Pshp 2) or for figures with a large chest girth a 1 a 2 = Shg + (Cg II - Cg I) + Pshp Armhole width aa 2 = A 0 a 1 -(A 0 a+ a 1 a 2) 2. Comparison of the obtained value of the armhole width with mi- 17

18 minimum acceptable given in the Unified Method. 3. Adjusting the width of the armhole if it is insufficient by adding to the width of the front and back. The adjustment is made for the difference between the obtained value and the table value. Minimum armhole width for various types products recommended by the Unified Method is presented in Appendix D (Table D.1). The process of manufacturing products according to individual orders of the population includes fittings, which make it possible to clarify the developed design on the figure. A unified method for designing clothing allows all cutters to use one method for constructing drawings, which has a positive effect on the quality of products. Knowing the patterns of changes in individual sections of the drawing, you can use the basic designs of patterns, making appropriate changes to them. These advantages of the Unified Method make it flexible and universal. A unified method for constructing clothing ensures the necessary accuracy of drawings and a good fit of the product on the figure. 2.2 Make a technical drawing and description of the designed clothing model for an individual consumer. The technical drawing of the model is made on a human figure: the view of the model from the back is located in the lower right corner relative to the view of the model from the front on a scale of 1:2, not on the human figure (Figure 2.1) . A technical drawing of the model is accompanied by its description. 18

19 Figure 2.1 Technical drawing of a women's demi-season coat (example) 2.3 Determination of initial data for constructing a model design of a model of clothing of a given range when manufacturing clothes for an individual consumer Initial data for constructing drawings of the main parts are determined based on the chosen design methodology, taking into account the required accuracy of drawing construction, eliminating unnecessary complexity of calculations, ensuring high quality fit of the product on the figure. Calculation and graphical methods for constructing drawings - 19

The 20 parts of the product provide as initial data the dimensional characteristics of a typical human figure and allowances for a loose fit (taking into account the properties of the materials used to manufacture the product). The dimensional characteristics of a typical figure of an individual consumer are used from laboratory work 1 (Table 1.1. Column 3). Increases for a loose fit are determined in accordance with the fashion direction for the current and future periods, the type of clothing, the silhouette of the model and the type of material. When determining the magnitude of the increases, students can use the recommendations of leading modeling organizations. In the Unified Method, compositional increases in women's clothing are established for the main silhouettes differentially, taking into account the volume of the product (Appendix E, Table E.1). Distribution of the increase along the chest line depending on the type of clothing and silhouette, and for women's clothing and its volume according to TsOTSL are presented in Appendix D in table D.2. The increases indicated in Appendix D in tables D.1-D.2 are recommended for proportional figures of an equilibrium type. In order to maintain the same visual impression of products of a certain silhouette on figures of different builds and proportions, it is recommended to adjust these increases according to the following principle: for upper-type figures, reduce the increase along the chest line Pg or increase the increase along the hip line Pb by 1.0-2.0 cm and more, or reduce the increase along the chest line and increase the increase along the hip line at the same time by half the indicated values; for lower type figures, on the contrary, increase the increase along the chest line or reduce the increase along the hip line, or adjust both increases simultaneously by the values ​​​​indicated in the previous case; for figures with a small chest girth or large stature, increases in Pg and Pb are increased by 0.5-2.0 cm or more, depending on the volume of the product and the degree of difference between a particular figure and the standard one; for figures with a large chest girth and shorter height, the increase is reduced by 0.5-2.0 cm, taking into account the same factors as in the previous case. Additional increases used in the design of clothing according to the Unified TsOTSL Method are presented in 20

21 Appendix D in tables D.3 and D.4. Loose fit allowances are presented in Table 2.1. Table Increases for a loose fit (indicate the name of the product) Name of the increase Symbol Value, cm recommended by the fashion direction used in the calculation Increase according to Pg 8.0 11.0 10.5 chest line in Column 3 of Table 2.1 indicates the source of information on the fashion direction of the assortment being developed clothes for the current or future period. 2.4 Performing calculations and constructing a model structure of the main parts of the designed model, taking into account the studied features of the physique of a specific figure of an individual consumer. Calculations for constructing a design drawing of the designed product are recommended to be performed in Table 2.2. Table Calculations for constructing a drawing of the basic base (indicate the name of the product, size) Conditional Calculation Calculation, see designation formula on the drawing Name of the structural section Value, cm Width of the base A o a 1 Cg III + Pg + Pr 46 + 8.0 + (0, 5+1.5) 55.5 drawing grids Based on the calculations obtained, a drawing of the basic structure is constructed, which is drawn in pencil on drawing or graph paper in A1 format on a scale of 1:1. 21

22 Model features (lines of reliefs, darts, pockets, folds, sides and lapels, etc.) are applied to the drawing of the basic design basis in accordance with the results of the analysis and study of the model sketch. The construction of a model structure is carried out according to the recommendations given in. When drawing up the design drawing of the model being developed, all auxiliary construction lines are left in thin lines, the contours of the final shape of the parts are drawn out with main lines. 2.5 Analysis of the results of the work and formulation of conclusions At the end of the work, the student analyzes the drawing of the model design of the designed product for an individual consumer in accordance with the characteristics of his physique, identified during laboratory work 1. Test questions 1. For what purpose is a preliminary design calculation performed? 2. In what cases are additional dimensional characteristics (C g, D tsiio, V pkpii, U b, etc.) used when constructing a product design drawing? 3. List the body types of female figures. 4. How to adjust weight increases for female figures various types physique? 22

23 LABORATORY WORK 3 DEVELOPMENT OF PATTERNS FOR CLOTHING DETAILS IN INDIVIDUAL PRODUCTION Purpose of the work: mastering the stages of development, design and production of patterns for clothing parts for an individual consumer from main, lining fabric and cushioning material. Task: 1. Study the background information for developing patterns for clothing parts. 2. Develop drawings of patterns of the main parts of the designed product. 3. Develop patterns for derived parts and construct them. 4. Check the quality of the developed set of patterns for the designed product for an individual consumer. 5. Analyze the results of the work and formulate conclusions. Equipment and materials: technical drawing of the design of the designed product, assembly drawings of the design of clothing units, pattern paper, graph paper, scissors, drawing accessories, measuring tape. Recommended literature: Guidelines 3.1 Preparation of initial information for the development of patterns for the main parts of clothing Drawings of patterns for parts of a garment are a technical document that determines the design, shape and size of parts, technical conditions for their processing and cutting. 23

24 3.1.1 Classification of patterns according to purpose In the conditions of industrial production of clothing and production of products in small batches, as well as individual production of clothing according to design drawings of basic size and height (see Table 3.1). Three types of patterns are made: original patterns, standard patterns and working patterns. The original patterns fully correspond to the reference sample of the product model of the basic size and are the starting point for the development of basic, derivative and auxiliary patterns of standards and working patterns of all sizes and heights. Standard patterns are obtained from the original patterns by grading them to all sizes and heights recommended in the age group being developed. They are used to make standard samples of sewing products, as well as to check the accuracy and quality of working patterns. Stored in the experimental workshop and checked against the working drawing or table of measures at least once a quarter. Working patterns are used directly in production process and are developed according to standard patterns. With the help of working patterns, layouts are made (based on which material consumption standards are established), materials are cut, stencils are made for cutting materials and the quality of the cut is checked. Patterns of this type are made from dense pressboard with a thickness of 0.87-1.62 mm and checked against the standard patterns or working drawings of the parts patterns at least once a month. To develop original patterns, the following initial data should be prepared: a technical drawing of the model design, an assembly drawing of the product components, information about the properties of the materials from which the product is planned to be made. 24

25 Table Dimensions for making clothes of basic size and height Number of complete group Women R-O giii -About Men R-O giii -O t, *-These dimensions are recommended for the manufacture of clothes of basic size in GOST R, GOST R Types of patterns Patterns intended for cutting parts of the top, lining and linings are divided into basic, derivative and auxiliary. Basic patterns are used for cutting out the top fabric of the main parts of clothing: back, front, sleeves, lower collar, front and back parts of trousers, front and back panels of skirts, etc. Derivative patterns are developed on the basis of the basic ones, taking into account the methods of their processing. These include clothing parts cut from: top fabric, upper collar, leaves, flaps, facings, straps, patches, belt; all patterns of parts cut out from lining, cushioning fabrics and insulating lining material. When developing schemes for constructing patterns for derived parts, such properties of the materials of the product package are taken into account as: different shrinkage properties, different stretching abilities, different shape-forming abilities and, of course, the thickness of the materials. In addition to the above listed properties of materials, when developing derivative parts, the design of the seam and the so-called “warranty” allowances are taken into account, which make it possible to correct possible inaccuracies technological process 25

26 (expansion of the lining at the bottom, expansion of the front side lining in the armhole area, etc.). Auxiliary patterns are developed separately only in conditions of industrial clothing production. In individual production they are combined with basic patterns. They are designed to refine the edges of parts, apply contour lines (pockets, darts, etc.), as well as auxiliary stitching lines, stitching lines, trim lines, etc. They are developed on the basis of basic and derivative patterns, taking into account the maximum accuracy of drawing lines and ease of use. The configuration and type of auxiliary patterns depend on: the complexity of the model, the processing methods used, the equipment used and means of small-scale mechanization, etc. 2-3 types of auxiliary patterns that are used at one workplace can be combined in one pattern. The rules of construction and the number of auxiliary patterns for sewing products are not strictly defined. According to their purpose, auxiliary patterns are divided into chalking patterns, patterns for clarifying cuts and auxiliary ones. Chaining auxiliary patterns are used for drawing lines on parts along which lines, seams are laid, darts, folds are sewn, loops are sewn, buttons are sewn, etc. By the nature of their execution, chalking patterns can be either external or contour, or internal (slotted). Patterns for clarifying cuts are developed when it is possible that the cut of a part may be distorted during its processing (patterns for chalking and trimming sections of the bead, bottom of the product, lower collar, inner edge of the bead, etc.). When developing these patterns, technological allowances are taken into account, since the contours are marked, as a rule, not on a separate part, but in an assembled unit. The workers are the external contours of the patterns, which must exactly correspond to the corresponding lines in the design. Auxiliary auxiliary patterns designed for cutting out parts on a tape machine. Sewing enterprises Those that produce clothing for an individual consumer (atelier) are classified as single-type enterprises. 26

27 A distinctive feature of this type of production is its versatility (i.e., production of both single products and mass production), as well as a wide range of services offered (sewing new models, repairs and renovations). The studio accepts orders for: making products for a standard figure corresponding to the customer’s figure with the development of an individual sketch of the model; production of semi-finished clothing products, followed by fitting and final fitting; for the production of products on a standard figure corresponding to the customer’s figure with the choice of a model from ready-made samples presented in the studio salon. Design documentation for designing clothing for individual orders of the population is developed in the form of promising basic designs, a basic design for a current fashion model and a universal basic design for a group of current fashion models. Promising basic designs are developed in a trendy silhouette form, in the same size and height, and are made taking into account the individual characteristics of the type of demonstrator that is fashionable at a given time ( fashionable image, fashionable type body shape, etc.). Designed for analysis and study of new fashionable cuts by specialists from model houses and experimental workshops of enterprises, with the subsequent development of new models based on them or the use of individual fragments in the manufacture of clothing according to individual orders of the population. Design documentation for a promising basic design is a drawing or a set of patterns for parts of the designed model without a technical description. Processing features are indicated on one of the product parts. Basic designs are developed for products of calmer, more moderate shapes, and are intended for direct use in the studio to design products based on them for a typical figure, taking into account the measurements and body features of the customer. The development of documentation is based on a model of one silhouette shape, one cut. 27

28 To obtain a variety of model features in addition to the basic designs, designs of fashionable parts (collars, lapels and sides, flaps, patch pockets, cuffs, etc.) are additionally developed, indicating on each part the numbers of technical descriptions of the basic designs for which this part can be offered. The set of patterns for small parts is accompanied by a catalog of sketches with numbers of technical descriptions of the recommended basic designs. Universal basic designs for a group of current fashion models. The difference between universal basic designs and basic ones lies in the application of patterns on the designs of the main parts of the optimal number of structural elements, allowing you to create the shape of the product with divisions that provide fashionable proportions. Additionally, the versatile basic design can be used for multiple cuts. The development of a universal basic design is based on a group of models united by a stylistic and artistic concept, as well as a single manufacturing technology. Using a universal basic design, you can cut products of the desired silhouette by making certain adjustments to the design and changing the configuration of the side cut in accordance with the desired silhouette, volume and fashion direction. The side cut is built directly on the material when chalking parts Features of the development and design of patterns when designing clothing for individual orders When making clothing for individual orders, patterns of basic designs are used to cut fabric into separate sheets, as well as to recut parts when updating products. Distinctive features of the development of patterns of parts for cutting products according to individual orders of the population for all polo age groups are: 1. Development of drawings of patterns for a standard figure with correction areas applied, 2. Development and production of drawings of patterns without seam allowances, bending the bottom of parts and clarifying products on the figure during fitting, 28

29 3. Patterns for the lining and side gasket, as a rule, are not developed, and cutting of the parts of the lining and side gasket is carried out according to the parts of the top after fitting and specifying the product, 4. For the convenience of cutting the product, it is possible to provide for double marking of the patterns (on the front and wrong side), 5. Auxiliary patterns are not developed as a separate type, but are combined with the main patterns. The values ​​of seam allowances and specification of the product according to the customer’s figure (with the maximum possible degree of readiness of the product for fitting) are given directly during the process of edging patterns for parts of men’s, women’s shoulder and waist clothing and are given in Appendix G. Thread directions are applied to all parts of the set of patterns basics and permissible deviations from them, if the material used does not have a pronounced pattern (checks or stripes), signs or words mark the places of technological or wet-heat treatment (tighten, pull, plant). In order to ensure the possibility of quickly adjusting the contours of cutting patterns in relation to the customer’s figure, design lines and calculation formulas are applied to the patterns indicating the direction of size change. The structure of the calculation formulas (Table 3.2) corresponds to the structure of the formulas used when constructing the drawing. When applying formulas in the patterns, the symbol of the dimensional characteristic and the absolute value of the increase are indicated. 29

30 Table 3.2 Calculation formulas indicated on the patterns of basic structures of the design section Name of the design section Calculation formula Shoulder clothing On the back 1 Length of the back to the waist Dts II + Pdts 2 Back width Shs + Pshs 3 Position of the hip line TB = 0.5 Dts II 2cm (women's clothing) TB = 0.5 Dts II 5 cm (men's clothing) 4 Bust line position Vprz II + Pspr + 0.5 Pdts 5 Back shoulder length Шп + allowance for fit or dart 6 Distance from the middle of the back at the waist line to Vpk II + Pvpk of the end of the shoulder section 7 Width of the product along the waist line (semi-adjacent and St + Pt adjacent silhouettes) 8 Width of the product along the line Sb + Pb hips 9 Width of the product under the armhole Sg III + Pg + midline back + dart solution along the chest line On the front 10 Front width (shelves) Shg + Pshp (men's clothing) Shg + (Cg II Cg I) + Pshp (women's clothing) 30

31 11 Position of the highest point Dtp II + Pdtp of the front neckline (front) relative to the waist line 12 Solution of the chest dart 2(Сг II Сг I)+(0 2 cm) 13 End of the chest dart Вг II and Гг +П On the sleeve 14 Width of the sleeve under the armhole Op + Pop 15 Height of the Wok 16 Sleeve length Druk + P Belt clothing Skirt Back panel of the skirt 17 Width of the product along the line St + Pt of the waist 18 Width of the product along the line Sat + Pb of the hips 19 Position of the hip line TB = 0.5 Dts II 2cm 20 Skirt length DID + P Pants Back of the trousers 21 Product width along the line St + Pt waist 22 Width of the product along the line Sb + Pb hips 23 Position of the hip line TB = 0.5 Dts II 2cm (for women's clothing) TB = 0.5 Dts II 5cm (for men's clothing) 24 Width of trousers at knee level According to model 25 Width of trousers at bottom According to model 24 Length of trousers Dbr + P Design (labeling) of patterns: - the purpose of the pattern is indicated (pattern of the basic design for all patterns of non-basic size and height); 31

32 - name of the product (on one of the main parts, on which the specification of patterns and cutting details will be given); - technical description number; - purpose of the material (main, lining, finishing, cushioning fabric); - name of the part (front, back, etc.); - the number of details in the cut; - the size of the product, expressed in full absolute values ​​of the leading dimensional characteristics of typical figures (for example); - Full name. developer designer; - date of development. The hem pattern is built according to the main front pattern, taking into account technological allowances: for seams, hemming of the bottom of the product and clarifications on the figure provided for when cutting the product. The lining is designed taking into account seam allowances, loose fitting and shrinkage. The design of the lining patterns provides for a minimum number of divisions, volumetric form is created only constructively. In this case, the fit can be replaced with darts, and the darts present in the top details with tucks or soft folds. Along the side line, the lining is designed taking into account the selection. The width of the stitched lining at the bottom is designed in accordance with the width of the top; in the lining it is reduced by the amount of folds, folds or expansion at the bottom. In women's products that are widened downwards with a lining that flaps along the bottom, the lining along the bottom line, as a rule, narrows to half the degree of expansion of the top parts, in products straight silhouette possible narrowing by 1.0 - 2.0 cm. In men's garments (coats, jackets) in the sleeve lining, the front cut is located along the line of the front roll, which eliminates wet-heat treatment in the lining parts. When using adhesive gasket materials, the side gasket is developed according to the details of the top. In this case, the sections of the gasket must fit into the joints of the parts from 1 to 5 mm. The tuck solutions are cut out. The bottom cut of the gasket is located along the hem line of the bottom, or extends beyond the hem line by 5 mm. Patterns for insulating gasket parts for winter products are developed according to the patterns of the lining, taking into account allowances, 32

33 included in the patterns, or according to the details of the top, taking into account allowances when cutting. At the same time, the insulating padding of the backrest is developed intact. The solution of the upper dart in women's products is cut out, leaving 1.0 cm on each side for joining with an overlay seam. The dart solution along the shoulder section of the back is replaced with a fit. Along the side cut, the insulating lining in women's products extends beyond the half-skid line by (1.5-2.0) cm, in men's products it is trimmed taking into account the edges. Along the bottom line of the product and sleeves, the insulating lining reaches the hem line. The insulating lining of the sleeves is designed to be one-piece cut along the front section. The direction of the warp threads on clothing parts is determined according to the technical conditions for cutting parts. In some cases, the direction of the warp threads is determined according to the model (for example, if an oblique cut is used). On the parts of a garment, the warp threads are drawn along the entire part for the convenience of doing manual layouts. Assembly notches are applied to the patterns of the parts perpendicular to the cuts to correctly connect the parts to each other. The quantities and locations of mounting notches are determined by the equipment used, methods of performing technological operations, etc. As a rule, on sections longer than cm, at least two notches are placed at a distance of approximately 10 cm from the ends of the sections. There should be at least 3-4 notches on the sleeve cap and armhole. The collar needs a cut that corresponds to the position of the shoulder seam. Methods of technological processing must be represented by assembly drawings of product components (sections of the front in the neck, side, bottom of the relief product, etc.) with the designation of part position numbers in accordance with the specification of patterns and the size of technological allowances for seams and hems. A fragment of an assembly drawing of a women's demi-season coat is shown in the figure

34 Figure 3.1 Fragment of an assembly drawing of a women's demi-season coat The properties of the materials from which the product is planned to be made are taken into account mainly when developing a technical design drawing (thickness, shrinkage during moisture-heat treatment and thermal duplication, stretchability, etc.). 3.2 Development of drawings of patterns of basic structures of the main parts of the designed product 34

35 The technical drawing of the product design contains the following information: design lines (chest, waist, hips, half-skid, etc.), loops marked on parts, warp thread direction lines, mounting notches on the contours of parts, deformation values ​​along sections, control measurement lines and control dimensions. Patterns of the main parts are made by copying from the technical drawing of the structure sequentially: the back (or its components, the front (or its parts), the lower collar, the sleeve (or its parts), while noting the position of the main structural lines, darts, locations of pockets, loops , control notches. The direction of the warp threads on the parts is marked. The contours of the patterns are drawn out without allowances for seams, the bottom of the parts is folded and refined on the figure during fitting, taking into account the properties of the materials used. Marking data is applied to each pattern and also: - lines of the fractional direction fabric - direction of the warp thread (N.O.); - lines of permissible deviations from the fractional direction; - lines of the minimum and maximum width of extensions in their locations according to industry standards for the product; - control notches. In order to ensure the possibility of prompt adjustment of the contours of the pattern edging in relation to the customer’s figure, adjustment lines and calculation formulas indicating the direction of size change are applied on the patterns (Table 3.2). On one of the parts of the product there is a sketch of the model, the name of the product, the specification of patterns and cutting details (Table 3.3), the name of the chief designer and the date of inspection. 35

36 Position number Table Specification of patterns and cutting details from main, lining and interlining materials (specify the name of the product) Quantity Name of the part patterns of cutting details Note Main fabric 1 Back Lining fabric 10 Back 1 1 with fold Interlining material 14 Padding in the upper part of the back In the column 5 of Table 3.3 indicate the presence of standardized parts and their overall dimensions. When making clothes according to individual orders, auxiliary patterns are not made, and the location of model features (loops, pockets, straps, etc.) is indicated on the main parts. The contours of the patterns are drawn up, taking into account the sequence of processing the seams, dictated by the technological processing methods used. The final design and marking of the patterns is carried out after their clarification during the production of the product model. An example of the design of patterns for the details of a women's demi-season coat is presented in Figure 3.2,

37 Figure 3.2 Fragment of the development of patterns for the main details of a women's demi-season coat (back details) 37

38 Figure 3.3 Fragment of the development of patterns for the main details of a women’s demi-season coat (front details) 38

39 3.3 Development of drawings of patterns for basic structures of derived parts Patterns for all other parts are developed using patterns of the main parts of the product. Schemes for constructing each specific derivative part are developed based on the design of the components of the finished product that include this part. The precision of the design of derivative parts ensures the connection of these parts of the product with the main ones without additional clarification. When developing schemes for constructing patterns for derived parts, the following properties of the materials of the product package are taken into account: variation in shrinkage; different stretching ability, different shaping ability; thickness of materials. Schemes for constructing lining and gasket parts are given in the literature. Drawings of the front and back lining are developed on the basis of drawings of the front and back patterns from the main fabric after the development of the drawing of the lining pattern; drawings of the lining of the sleeve parts based on the drawings of the upper and lower parts of the sleeve from the main fabric. When developing interlining parts for the hem of the bottom of the product and sleeves in order to clearly fix the hem line, the contours of the upper cut of the interfacing should overlap the hem line by 0.3-1.0 cm. To fix the neckline, shoulder cut and back armhole, parts are developed from interlining material, the shape of which depends from the structure of the material. The dimensions of parts made of lining material are designed in such a way that when stitching or turning parts, the lining must be secured with a machine stitch and “extend” beyond it by 0.3–0.5 cm. Figure 3.4 shows diagrams for constructing patterns for derivative parts made from lining fabric, in the figures Schemes for constructing patterns of derivative parts from cushioning material. 39

Types and purpose of thread seams. Classification of thread machine seams. Making seams and their purpose. general characteristics technological equipment for making thread seams. Moist-thermal

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Year of publication: 2002
Language: Japanese
Format: pdf
Number of pages: 156 pages
Size: 108 Mb

Short description.

The book presents 28 models of dresses by the famous fashion trendsetter of the 1920s and 30s, Madeleine Vionnet. Madeleine Vionnet's style is focused on geometric shapes. Madeleine was considered an innovator in the art of tailoring. She often used stretch fabrics and cut on the bias. Vionnet worked only using the “tattooing” technique, that is, she created three-dimensional models. The book contains photographs of models, as well as patterns on a scale of 1:10. The cut of the dresses is very simple in lines, but far from trivial in design.

THEM. Bratchik Designing women's outerwear of complex shapes and cuts

Short description.

The book discusses a once new method for constructing drawings of women's outerwear of complex shapes and cuts (with raglan sleeves, one-piece, combined various options). Formulas are given and specific examples are given for calculating allowances for products of various cuts. Section proposed technical modeling, recommendations are given for the practical application of this design method. The book is intended for a wide range of readers involved in the design and sewing of women's outerwear.

M.L. Voronin Design and production of men's outerwear using the non-trying method

Short description.

The author's unique model-vest method of design, cutting and sewing is described. men's suits and coats made to order. The features of accepting an order and taking measurements using a fitting vest, the design of which allows you to take into account the particular physique and posture of the customer, are considered in detail. Using this method, the cutter, together with a team of craftsmen, can make clothes for people of different body types, including those with deviations from the conventionally proportional one. The book is intended for master cutters, and can also be useful to students of colleges and vocational schools, students of various universities of relevant specialties.

Designing clothes with CAD elements

Short description.

The textbook was developed in accordance with the course program "Designing clothing with CAD elements" for students of higher educational institutions. The textbook is intended for higher education students educational institutions and light industry specialists.

Laboratory workshop on clothing design with CAD elements

Short description.

The book provides guidelines for performing laboratory work on clothing design using CAD. Methods for anthropometric studies of the size and shape of the human body are described, methods for calculating and constructing patterns of clothing parts, designing basic structures, performing design work when creating new clothing models and preparing them for implementation in mass production using a computer are outlined. The main issues of clothing quality control are covered. The textbook is intended for students of higher educational institutions and specialists in light industry and can be used in conjunction with the textbook "Designing clothing with CAD elements."

P.I. Rogov, N.M. Konopaltseva Designing women's clothing for the individual consumer

Short description.

The book presents the physique features of female figures, characteristics of their morphological variability according to the main structural belts. The principles of constructing design drawings in various design methods are outlined. The calculation and measurement method for designing women's products is considered in detail and calculations and construction of design drawings are given. different types women's clothing. The textbook is intended for students educational institutions secondary vocational education. The book can also be useful to students of universities of the relevant profile, engaged in the design of women's clothing.

A.I. Martynova Catalog of models and designs of women's clothing

Short description.

The tutorial discusses an express method for designing the basic and initial model designs of shoulder-length women's clothing with set-in sleeves for figures of various body types. The textbook contains examples of the development of modern models of women's clothing of various assortments and corresponding working documentation, including: drawings of model structures, methods of technological processing, schemes for determining the parameters of derivative patterns, drawings of patterns of product parts and auxiliary patterns, drawings of gradation of parts, etc.

E.A. Yanchevskaya, E.A. Rybkina Fashion for the elderly

Short description.

The book examines the basics of modeling and decorating clothes for older women. Body types, size characteristics of figures, and increases in clothing are given. The features of constructing structures for women of this age group are described in detail.

E.B. Koblyakova, A.V. Savostitsky, G.S. Ivleva Fundamentals of clothing design

Short description.

The book describes methods of anthropological research into the size and shape of the human body and the design of industrial mannequins. Set out modern methods calculation and construction of developments of clothing parts, design of basic principles, execution design work when creating clothing models and preparing them for implementation in mass production. The main issues of monitoring and assessing the quality of clothing are covered.

G.A. Samarov, A.I. Cheremnykh Modeling and design of men's outerwear

Short description.

The book outlines methods for calculating and constructing designs for men's products: jackets, coats, trousers, tailcoats, etc. The construction method corresponds to the design features of the 50s of the twentieth century.

AND I. Skovronsky Designing men's outerwear

Short description.

The book can serve as a guide for creating designs for various types of men's outerwear. The design of men's outerwear of various types and cuts on the same basis is described in detail here.

L.T. Stetyukha Designing women's light dresses and underwear

Short description.

The book outlines methods for constructing female lung dresses and underwear according to the proportional measurement system, calculations for constructing drawings for wide range light women's clothing: blouses, skirts, women's and baby dress, as well as women's and men's underwear.

E.A.Yanchevskaya Designing women's light clothing

Short description.

The book examines the influence of posture on the design of a product, issues of developing the design of the basics of women's lightweight clothing with set-in sleeves, with one-piece sleeves of various shapes and raglan cut sleeves. The construction of collars of various options is given, as well as options for transferring darts and some examples of atypical solutions for the bodice, sleeves, and skirt.

Valeria Ferrari DIY soft toy

Short description.

The book presents illustrative material covering all the stages of creating a soft doll with your own hands. The book also discusses in detail the process of making clothes for dolls.

Caroline Earle Silk painting. Basics of Craftsmanship

Short description.

The book outlines basic and additional techniques for painting on silk. The necessary exercises for consolidating the material are given, as well as templates according to which you can complete the samples yourself.

Michael Bossom Encaustic Art. How to draw with wax

Short description.

The book outlines the basic techniques of wax painting. Materials reviewed in detail theoretical basis design.

To narrow down the search results, you can refine your query by specifying the fields to search for. The list of fields is presented above. For example:

You can search in several fields at the same time:

Logical operators

The default operator is AND.
Operator AND means that the document must match all elements in the group:

research development

Operator OR means that the document must match one of the values ​​in the group:

study OR development

Operator NOT excludes documents containing this element:

study NOT development

Search type

When writing a query, you can specify the method in which the phrase will be searched. Four methods are supported: search taking into account morphology, without morphology, prefix search, phrase search.
By default, the search is performed taking into account morphology.
To search without morphology, just put a “dollar” sign in front of the words in the phrase:

$ study $ development

To search for a prefix, you need to put an asterisk after the query:

study *

To search for a phrase, you need to enclose the query in double quotes:

" research and development "

Search by synonyms

To include synonyms of a word in the search results, you need to put a hash " # " before a word or before an expression in parentheses.
When applied to one word, up to three synonyms will be found for it.
When applied to a parenthetical expression, a synonym will be added to each word if one is found.
Not compatible with morphology-free search, prefix search, or phrase search.

# study

Grouping

In order to group search phrases you need to use brackets. This allows you to control the Boolean logic of the request.
For example, you need to make a request: find documents whose author is Ivanov or Petrov, and the title contains the words research or development:

Approximate word search

For an approximate search you need to put a tilde " ~ " at the end of a word from a phrase. For example:

bromine ~

When searching, words such as "bromine", "rum", "industrial", etc. will be found.
You can additionally specify maximum amount possible edits: 0, 1 or 2. For example:

bromine ~1

By default, 2 edits are allowed.

Proximity criterion

To search by proximity criterion, you need to put a tilde " ~ " at the end of the phrase. For example, to find documents with the words research and development within 2 words, use the following query:

" research development "~2

Relevance of expressions

To change the relevance of individual expressions in the search, use the " sign ^ " at the end of the expression, followed by the level of relevance of this expression in relation to the others.
The higher the level, the more relevant the expression is.
For example, in this expression, the word “research” is four times more relevant than the word “development”:

study ^4 development

By default, the level is 1. Valid values ​​are a positive real number.

Search within an interval

To indicate the interval in which the value of a field should be located, you should indicate the boundary values ​​in parentheses, separated by the operator TO.
Lexicographic sorting will be performed.

Such a query will return results with an author starting from Ivanov and ending with Petrov, but Ivanov and Petrov will not be included in the result.
To include a value in a range, use square brackets. To exclude a value, use curly braces.