What measurements to take for sewing a skirt. Lesson summary "taking measurements to draw skirt drawings"
Subject: Sewing
Class: 7th grade
Date: 01/17/17
Subject: Taking measurements andconstructing a drawing of the base of a straight skirt.
Target: Study the measurements necessary for constructing the drawing, the names of the sections and construction lines of the base of the straight skirt, the measuring characteristics and allowances necessary for its construction.
Tasks:
Contribute to the formation of ideas about skirts.
To promote the development of students' drawing skills.
Create conditions for identifying cause-and-effect relationships when working with skirt pattern details.
To promote the development of the sensory sphere of students (development of the eye, orientation in space).
To promote precision and accuracy when constructing a drawing of a straight skirt.
Help broaden your horizons through familiarization with the skirt product.
Equipment: textbook, drawing notebook, measuring and drawing tools,multimedia projector; screen;
During the classes
I. Organizational moment
The teacher welcomes everyone present and monitors students’ readiness for the lesson.
II. Updating students' knowledge
Repetition of the material covered on the topic “Finishing of garments” is carried out by solving a crossword puzzle. (slide 2)
– Find the word hidden vertically. (Skirt)
Today in the lesson we will talk about a straight skirt.
Let's take measurements from the figure and draw a drawing of the base of a straight skirt on a scale of 1:4.Frontal survey:
At what stage does the production of a garment begin? (SL2)
Why is it necessary to take measurements? (dl3)
What will be the impact of taking measurements correctly? sl4
How should the work be done? DC4
Give students a definition of the word “skirt” cl.5.
Complete the "find the skirt" task
III. State the topic and purpose of the lesson. sl5,6 (write the topic in your notebook)
I V . Presentation of new material.
Give students a definition of the word “skirt” cl.7.
Complete the task “find the skirt” cl8
Look at the clothing models, name and show the types of clothing according to the method of wearing sl9
Analysis of the “skirt” pattern sl10
Consolidation, answer questions:DC 11
1. Clothes that are held at the waist (belt) are called
These include:
2. Clothes that hang on the shoulders are called
These include:
Explanation: what kind of skirts are there according to the cutting method SL12 -18
Reinforcement: name the types of skirts according to the cutting method, showing them in the photo sl19
Explanation: Name of parts, contour lines of the skirtDC 20,
Assignment: sketch the details of the skirt in a notebook and sign.
Explanation:Measurements for drawing a skirt SL 21
Draw the table in your notebook, level 22
Fastening: select measurements to draw a drawing of a straight skirt DC 23
V. Physical moment
V I . Practical work.
1. Introductory briefing
1) Taking measurements to build the base of a straight skirt.
The students recall the rules for taking measurements:
the person being measured must tie a lace at the waist line;
The person being measured should stand straight without tension, without bending his knees.
Frontal work on taking measurements. Recording measurements in a notebook.
– What else, besides measurements, do you need to know to draw a drawing of the base of a straight skirt? (Increases) table, textbook page 119
– For a loose fit, add 1 cm to the waist half-circumference measurement, and to the hip half-circumference measurement– 3 cm.
2. Ongoing briefing
Students, under the guidance of the teacher, using the algorithm sl24 - 27 and the textbook pp. 119 - 120 in their workbooks, draw a drawing of the base of a straight skirt for a standard figure on a scale of 1:4.
3. Final briefing
The teacher analyzes the work and gives grades.
V II . Lesson summary
Questions: c l28
What goal did you set for yourself?
Have you completed your lesson plan?
What difficulties (problems) did you encounter in the lesson?
What needs to be done to avoid (solve) them?
VII. Cleaning workplaces
Greetings to everyone who wants to learn how to sew on their own and learn the intricacies of sewing! Sewing any product begins with taking measurements. The speed of the work and the fit of the product depend on how correctly you remove them. Today I will talk about how to take measurements of a woman’s figure for tailoring. These are the most basic measurements that will always be useful to you when creating any skirt patterns.
To take the most accurate measurements, it is necessary that there is nothing else on the figure except underwear. Thin ones are allowed. For tight-fitting models, this is a particularly important point.
All skirts are considered waist garments, so measurements are taken from the waist line. Determining this line is not easy. Many women believe that their waist is where it seems to them, but to create a pattern we need the correct position of the waist, not the apparent one. Raising or lowering this line is done directly when modeling the product.
I will tell you what measurements are needed to draw a drawing of a straight skirt. Some other models will require either more or fewer measurements. So, let's start by determining the waist line.
To find its location, you need to stand up straight and find the narrowest place in the middle of the height of the body. Tie a thin cord, no more than 5 mm wide, horizontally to the floor at this point. This is exactly what the waist line will be.
For complex figures who have fat deposits in this area, it is sometimes not easy to tie a lace horizontally to the floor. For these purposes, I use it, which is put on the client and hides the unevenness of the figure. This is my idea and I can say with confidence that it helps a lot in my work. Surely you don’t have such a corset. Instead, you can use a fairly dense thing that will stretch over your figure. Perhaps it will. Measurements will have to be taken taking into account its thickness.
Throughout the taking of measurements, the figure should stand straight and not skew to the sides. Having determined the correct position of the waist line and tying a lace at this place, you can measure the waist circumference (WT) with a centimeter tape. Make sure that the lace is located horizontally to the floor on all parts of the waist. This is important for taking height measurements.
After this, we visually determine the widest place at the level of the hips, paying attention to the buttocks, and measure the height of the hip (HH), stepping back slightly from the center of the middle front. The measurement is taken vertically from the waist line down.
At the WB level, hip circumference (HG) is measured.
It is not difficult to measure it on a slender figure, but if the figure has a protruding belly, then this becomes somewhat problematic. In order to remove the desired correct value, you can use the following method. Take thick paper (wallpaper or whatman paper) and wrap the figures in its central part. Place it as if in a cylinder. Record the circumference of this cylinder. This will be OB.
When constructing a straight skirt pattern, all the bulges of the figure are taken into account. Excess fabric is removed into darts and the depth of some can also be measured without resorting to calculations. To determine the depth of the side dart (GBD), I use an interesting tool. You can make it yourself without much effort. To do this you need to take two rulers. It is better if one of them is wooden and saw off its corner at the very beginning from the zero mark.
In order for you to understand how to assemble this tool, I took one transparent ruler and a second wooden one with a corner cut off. You need to put a regular hair elastic on the transparent ruler, as shown in the photo. After this, insert a wooden ruler from behind, between the crossed sections of the elastic band. The tool is ready. The wooden ruler, thanks to the elastic band, is well attached to the transparent ruler and can be moved perpendicular to it to the sides.
In order to measure the depth of the side dart, it is necessary to rest the tip of a wooden ruler against the cord at the waist, while the other ruler should be in a vertical position. The number of divisions on the wooden ruler will be equal to the depth of the dart.
If you do not have such a tool, then the depth of the dart can be calculated, but using rulers you get a more accurate real value.
After this, you need to measure the halves that will be needed when constructing the pattern. Due to the peculiarities of the female figure, it is more convenient to measure the waist half along the front, and the hip half along the back.
This is done as follows. The front is visually divided in half, and the length is measured along the waist line from the center of the front to the virtual side seam (SSE). Half back at the hips (HB) is measured along the hip line from the center of the back to the side seam. It is better to write the obtained values in a table.
They are very important for the correct construction of the pattern. When measuring these halves, you need to visually draw a side seam or fasten a thin cord to the figure that will determine it.
To find PPB and PST from the half-circumferences of the waist and hips, it is necessary to subtract PPT and PSB, respectively.
At the next stage, the heights of the figure are measured: front waist height (FHR), side waist height (WTB), back waist height (BWC).
It is necessary that the woman not be wearing shoes when taking length measurements.
VTP is measured vertically in the center of the front from the waist line to the floor.
VTB is measured vertically from the waist line along the side deflection to the floor. If the height of the sides of the figure is different, then you need to take measurements from both.
VTS is measured vertically from the waist line in the center of the back to the floor.
And at the very end, the length of the product (DI) is measured. In this case, the desired length of the skirt. This completes all the basic measurements. Now you know how to take measurements of a woman’s figure to sew a straight skirt. Let's list them again.
OT – waist circumference
AB – hip circumference
VB – hip height
GBV – depth of side dart
PPT - half front at the waist
PSB - half back along the hips
VTP – front waist height
VTB – side waist height
VTS – back waist height
DI – product length
If it seems to you that there are too many measurements, then, I assure you, this is not so. With a certain skill, they can all be removed in literally 5 minutes. But, knowing them, you will be able to build the exact basis of your straight skirt, without any incomprehensible calculations. Having mastered this method of taking measurements, the process of constructing patterns will become much clearer to you, which I will talk about in the following articles.
If you have any questions, ask them in the comments.
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Taking measurements is one of the most important processes in creating a product.
How to do it correctly?
You will learn about taking measurements, both familiar and unique to this technique, from this article.
Let me remind you: to take measurements we need the following:
- tape measure;
- lavsan film or paper strip measuring 150 x 30 cm;
- rubber cord;
- corner ruler.
You can purchase such a line, convenient and improved. To do this, you need to place an order on the “Product Catalog” page.
Have you prepared the tools? Well done! Now prepare the client.
Taking measurements. Client preparation
To take measurements, the client must be wearing a tight-fitting swimsuit, thin elastic tights and shoes suitable for the future product, that is, shoes with which the client plans to wear the product.
The height of the heel affects both the length of the product and the posture of the figure. Tights are necessary so that existing fat deposits are dressed in a more compact form.
Tie an elastic band or elastic cord at the waist. The waist is determined by the most concave areas of the torso. In order for the elastic band to “settle down” in the correct position, ask the client to move: bend over, twist, sit down. The elastic is tied so that it allows the client to breathe, but does not sag, twist or change its location.
Please take this into account when taking measurements!
- If there is a simplified version of the angular ruler, the measurer must take measurements while sitting! Then the rulers are at eye level, and it is easier to ensure that the rulers are horizontal.
If you purchased an improved ruler, it has a horizontal level indicator.
- When taking measurements, do not allow the client to twist or move, as this will cause different measurement results. The sharp end of the ruler should not stick into the figure, but should be applied equally to it for all measurements.
- Before trying on a skirt, to avoid mistakes, the elastic must be put on in the same place!
So let's begin.
1. OT - waist circumference
The measurement is ordinary, it is measured in a standard way in all cutting methods: lay a measuring tape along the elastic band, without tightening the client, but also without sagging the elastic band.
2. ABOUT - hip circumference
Measure the circumference of the hips with mylar film, taking into account all the bulges of the abdomen, hips and buttocks. With this measurement method, it does not matter at what distance from the waist this measurement is taken.
If, nevertheless, this measurement is taken as usual, that is, with a measuring tape, then it is necessary to position it (the tape) so as to capture the most convex areas of the hips. In this case, the client must hold a ruler placed at the most protruding point of the abdomen in a vertical position. This way, the bulge of the abdomen can be taken into account.
3. d - anterior-posterior (transverse) diameter of the waist
Measure the client in profile. If, when taking this measurement, you use two angled rulers as calipers, and place the client’s waist between them so that they (the rulers) touch the waist at the centers of the front and back, then the distance between the rulers is the anterior-posterior (transverse) diameter of the waist.
4. D - anterior-posterior (transverse) diameter of the thighs
It is measured similarly to the anterior-posterior (transverse) waist diameter d, placed between two rulers of the client’s hips. Then the distance between the rulers is the anteroposterior (transverse) diameter of the hips. Since this measurement includes the convexity of the abdomen, the client must hold it in an upright position, placing it at the most prominent point of the abdomen. The required place for measurement is the distance between the rulers at the most convex point of the buttocks and at the ruler placed at the bulge of the abdomen. In this case, the long ruler must be strictly horizontal!
Figurative comparison: if you, walking sideways, get stuck in a door, then the width of the doorway is your anterior-posterior (transverse) hip diameter D.
5-7. DP, DB, DZ - length front, side and back
These 3 measurements are taken from the elastic at the waist in the appropriate place (in the center of the front - DP, along the supposed side seam - DB, along the buttock - DZ) to the most convex point along the body, then vertically down to the floor.
To maintain the verticality of the measuring tape, you can attach a weight to its end. When taking these measurements, the client should stand upright, with body weight evenly distributed on both legs.
If the convexity of the buttocks is different or there is a large deflection between them, place an additional ruler on the convexity of the buttocks and measure the DZ value from the elastic band at the waist to the ruler, and then vertically down to the floor.
8. DU - skirt length
The measurement is taken from the elastic at the waist along the side to the desired length (when taking the measurement, side length DB).
9-14. Measurements for calculating darts
- 9, 10 front (PX, PY);
- 11, 12 on the side (BX, BY);
- 13, 14 behind (ЗX, ЗY).
These 6 measurements (3 pairs) determine the amount by which the most convex points of the figure are spaced from the waist horizontally (X) and vertically (Y) in three areas - front (PX, PY), side (BX, BY) and back ( ZX, ZY). When measuring the X's and Y's (X's and Y's), it will be convenient for you to sit on a chair so that the corner ruler is at your eye level, while the client must stand!
If you purchased an improved ruler, it has horizontal level indicators, which will provide you with accurate measurements of your figure. Measurements are taken simultaneously for each pair (X,Y). In this case, the corner ruler is placed with its sharp end against the elastic band at the waist, placing the rulers strictly vertically and horizontally. The vertical ruler should be tangent to the most convex point.
Make sure that the sharp end of the ruler does not stick into the client. The improved line will allow you to avoid this.
Sometimes in the thigh area there is a complex relief of the figure: two different bulges. This makes it difficult to find the most convex point. To do this, run your hand along your thigh and find the lowest and most convex point.
Well, that's all. We took all 14 measurements.
"Why so many measurements?" - you ask.
Lots of measurements, but no fittings!
See you!
To draw a drawing of the base of any skirt, you need to take measurements. Find yourself an assistant, as it is quite difficult to do this alone. First tie a thin elastic band around your waist, placing it strictly horizontally. To prevent clothes from distorting the readings, measurements should be taken using underwear. When taking measurements, do not loosen or tighten the measuring tape too much.
I should immediately note that here are the measurements for all types of skirts. For the measurements required to construct a drawing of the base of a specific type of skirt, see the “Initial Data” section of the relevant articles.
So let's get started.
S t- half waist circumference, place the tape over the braid tied at the waist, divide the result in half.
C b- semi-circumference of the hips, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen, place a measuring tape horizontally around the body along the most protruding points of the buttocks, vertically place a flexible plate (for example, a ruler) or just a palm on the stomach to take into account its convexity in the measurement. If the hips have a pronounced riding breeches shape, lower the tape down to the most convex places. We divide the result in half.
D TB- the distance from the waist to the hips, measured from behind, vertically down to the protruding points of the buttocks.
D joint- front length, the distance from the waist line to the floor in front, measured from the waist line through the most protruding point of the abdomen and then vertically down.
D Sat- length on the side, the distance from the waist line to the floor on the side, measured from the waist along the side of the thigh through the most protruding area of the thigh and then vertically to the floor.
D NW- back length, the distance from the waist line to the floor in the back, measured from the waist in the middle of the back down to the floor, on top of a thin ruler applied horizontally to the protruding points of the buttocks.
D yu- length of the skirt, measured from the waist line along the side of the thigh through the most protruding area of the thigh and then vertically down to the level of the desired length of the skirt.
D ts- the length of the back to the waist, taking into account the protrusion of the shoulder blades - we measure from the waist line to the cervical point (the most protruding point of the seventh cervical vertebra) along the spine through a thin plate (ruler) placed on the most protruding points of the shoulder blades.
D tsII- the distance from the back waistline to the projected point of the shoulder seam at the base of the neck (on the shoulder pad).
The shoulder pad is used to obtain a number of dimensional characteristics in a unified method for constructing the TsOTSL. It is made from soft fabric or knitted fabric, cutting out the upper parts of the back and the shelf on the right side of the figure according to patterns, and grinding them along the shoulder section. For children, these shoulder pads are made to fit figures with a chest circumference of 68 cm for the younger age group and 92 cm for children of the older age group. A measuring tape cut in half is attached to each of the extreme points of the shoulder seam, counting starting from the shoulder seam. An elastic band with free ends is sewn to the neckline for tying around the neck. The shoulder pad is placed on the shoulder so that the shoulder seam of the shoulder pad occupies the desired or conditionally accepted position on the figure, and is secured with a tie. The appearance of the shoulder pad is shown in the figure. The file with the shoulder pad pattern for children will be posted here for download a little later.
Increases
Depending on the silhouette of the skirt, different increases are given to the measurements.
Increases in hip, waist and thigh girth for waist products for women
When choosing a loose fit allowance for straight skirts, you should take into account the density of the fabric and the fullness of your figure: ( C b= 48 - 50 cm - 0.5 cm increase in hips. C b= 52 - 54 cm - 1 cm. C b= 56 - 58 cm - 1.5 cm. C b over 60 cm - 2 cm.)
Increases to the semi-circumference of the hips, waist and thigh circumference for waist products for girls
In preparing this article, materials from the book “Designing Clothing” by the authors E.K. Amirov, O.V. Sakulin, B.S. Sakulin, A.T. were used. Trukhanova, Moscow, Publishing Center "Academy", 2006.
Skirt pattern for all body types.
We bring to your attention another method for constructing a straight skirt pattern. If the previous method is designed for so-called standard figures and is more suitable for mass tailoring, then this method is good because it can be used to create a pattern for any figure, including a figure that deviates from generally accepted standards. This technique, compared to the previous one, takes into account some individual characteristics of a particular person.
There are even more precise methods, methods and techniques used to construct patterns for individual tailoring of skirts. We'll get to know them later.
We start by taking measurements. In order to take measurements correctly, you need to tie a cord or thin elastic band around the waist line. Moreover, the lace should lie in the place of the body where the skirt belt is usually located when worn, and not horizontally to the floor. Otherwise, during wear, the skirt belt will inevitably tend to take its usual position, which will entail a shift of the side seams towards the front or back, i.e. a violation of their verticality, and therefore a violation of the horizontality of the bottom line. The entire appearance of the skirt will suffer from this.
The process of taking measurements should always be approached with special responsibility, since the final result depends on it.
To draw a skirt drawing, in addition to the half-circumferences of the waist and hips, you need to take the following measurements:
In our table, as an example, we took half-girth measurements for size 48, the length is arbitrary, and you take your measurements or the measurements of the person for whom you are going to sew this skirt.
Half waist St |
For belt products, the half-waist measurement is measured at the place of the body and in the position where the skirt belt is usually worn, and not horizontally to the floor. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Half hip circumference Sat |
Measure horizontally along the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the convexity of the abdomen. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
|
Distance from waist to floor in front |
Measure along the middle of the front vertically down from the lace at the waist to the floor. |
|
Distance from waist to floor at side |
Measure along the side line vertically down from the lace at the waist to the floor. |
|
Rear waist to floor distance |
Measure from the back in the middle of the back vertically down from the lace at the waist line to the floor. |
|
Distance from floor to bottom edge of skirt |
Measure from the floor to the desired length of the skirt. Or it is determined by calculation, subtracting the desired length of the skirt from the distance from the waist to the floor. For example, 102-67(skirt length) = 35cm. The measurement is recorded in full. |
|
Back length to waist |
Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full. |
In addition to the basic measurements, it is necessary to provide allowances for a loose fit along the waist and hips. These values depend on several factors, such as the thickness and density of the fabric, the characteristics of a particular figure, fashion trends, client wishes, etc. And most importantly, you determine all this based on what problems you need to solve.
We will take the following increases:
Along the waist line Fri - 0cm
Along the hip line Pb - 1 cm.
Back length of skirt.
The peculiarity of this technique is that the construction of the pattern begins not from the waist line, but from the line bottom skirts.
Therefore, let's start building from the left lower angle with vertex at point H.
From this point upward we set the length of the skirt at the back Duse.
To determine back length of skirt, we perform the subtraction: Distancefrom waist to floor in back minus
Duse=101-35=66cm.
From point H upward we set aside 66cm and place point T.
Hip line.
The distance from the waist line to the hip line usually ranges from 18-20 cm (rarely up to 23 cm), regardless of how it is determined. Therefore, in some methods this value is proposed as a constant, for example, 18 cm for all sizes.
You can determine it using the formula - this is 1/2 of the length of the back to the waist minus 1-2 cm, or even simpler - take a centimeter and measure this distance on a specific figure.
From point T down, we will put the result obtained and put point B. In our example, this is 18 cm, we determined it using the above formula (38: 2-1 = 18 cm).
From point B to the right we draw a horizontal line.
Rice. 1
Skirt width.
We determine the width of the skirt - the half-circumference of the hips plus an increase for a loose fit.
Sat+Pb=52+1=53cm
From point B to the right we set this value aside and place point B1. We draw a vertical line through point B1. Let us denote the point of intersection with the bottom line by the letter H1.
Rice. 2
Skirt front length.
To determine the front length of the skirt Dupe, we perform the subtraction: Distancefrom waist to floor front minusdistance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt.
In our example it looks like this:
Dupe=100-35=65cm.
From point H1 we set aside 65 cm upward and place point T1.
Rice. 3
Side seam.
The position of the side seam can be determined using the formula below, but you always need to take into account the characteristics of a particular figure (bulging buttocks, protruding stomach) and based on this, move the side seam in one direction or another.
In our example, the side seam is determined by the formula:
Distance BB1 (skirt width) divided by 2 plus 1:
From point B1 to the left we set aside 27.5 cm and put point B2 through which we draw a vertical line. The point of intersection with the bottom line is designated by the letter H2
Rice. 4
Side skirt length.
To determine the side length of the skirt, we subtract: Distancefrom waist to floorfrom the sideminusdistance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt.
In our example it looks like this: 102-35 = 67cm, and you do the calculations with your numbers.
From point H2 upward we set aside 67 cm and place point T2.
Rice. 5
Waistline
We connect points T, T2 and T1 with straight lines.
Rice. 6
Calculation of darts along the waist line.
The total opening of darts along the waist line ΣB is determined by subtracting the half-circumference of the waist with an increase for a loose fit from the width of the skirt along the hips, i.e. from the half-girth of the hips with an increase for a loose fit.
ΣB=(Sat+Pb)-(St+Fri)=(52+1)-(38+0)=15cm
The front dart solution is equal to 0.16-0.2 of the total dart solution ΣB:
0.2xΣH=0.2x15=3cm
The back dart solution is equal to 0.3-0.35 of the total dart solution ΣB:
0.35xΣH=0.35x15=5.2cm
The side dart solution is equal to 0.45-0.5 of the total dart solution ΣB:
0.45xΣH=0.45x15=6.8cm
The coefficient that you choose for calculations should reflect the characteristics of a particular figure as accurately as possible.
Check: 3cm+5.2cm+6.8cm=15cm
Front dart position can be determined by calculation, but it is better to proceed from the features of the figure and, in accordance with them, move the dart closer to the side line or to the line of the middle front, depending on these features (the presence and shape of the abdomen). Moreover, the position of the darts, both on the front and back panels, can be determined during the first fitting. Details of this method are in the following articles.
In this example, we determine the position of the dart using one of several existing formulas:
Divide the width of the skirt along the hips by 5:
BB1:5=53:5=10.6cm
From point B1 to the left we set aside 10.6 cm and place point B3. From this point upward, draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line and place point T3.
Rice. 7
Front dart length.
The length of the front dart can vary significantly in size (from 6 to 14 cm or more), if we are talking about an individual approach.
From point T3 downwards we set aside the length of the dart.
In our example, we will determine it using the formula, multiplying the tuck solution by 4, we get:
3x4=12cm.
We put this value down from point T3 and place point B.
Rice. 8
From point T3 to the left and right we put aside half of the front dart solution 3:2 = 1.5 cm and put points B1 and B2.
Rice. 9
Connect point B with points B1 and B2. Using a compass, align the sides of the dart along less side and put point B3.
The sides of the darts can be straight or curved. Their configuration depends on the shape of the abdomen. Our hypothetical client has a flat stomach, so we leave the sides of the dart straight, and you focus on your client’s body data.
Rice. 10
Position and length and depth of the back dart.
The position of the back dart can be determined by calculation, similar to the front dart, but it is always necessary to take into account the features of the figure and adjust the position of the darts in accordance with them. If necessary, move the dart closer to the side line or to the mid-front line. The length of the back dart should also be based on the characteristics of a particular figure (buttock shape). You just have to keep in mind that the top of the back dart should not come closer than 3-4cm to the hip line (to the protruding point of the buttocks).
We determine the position of the back dart in the same way as the front:
BB1:5=53:5=10.6cm
From point B to the right we set aside 10.6 cm and place point B4. Draw a vertical line from point B4 upward. At the point of intersection with the waist line we place point T4.
Rice. eleven
From point T4 downwards we set aside the length of the dart 14-15 cm and place point B4.
From point T4 to the left and right we put aside half of the back dart solution 5.2:2 = 2.6 cm and put points B5 and B6. We connect point B4 with points B5 and B6.
We align the sides of the dart using a compass along greater side and put point B7.
The sides of the darts can be straight or curved. Their configuration depends on the shape of the buttocks. A figure with flat or lush buttocks, all these are individual characteristics of a particular figure, and this is where we should proceed from.
In our example, we curved the sides of the back dart slightly to ensure a good fit on the moderately full buttocks of our model client.
Rice. 12
When determining the length of the side dart, you should take into account that the area from the waist to the hips along the side line for each person has an individual configuration.
The length of the side dart depends on the steepness of the hips of a particular person, i.e. the one for whom you are making the pattern.
On average, the length of the side dart is 15-18 cm.
From point T2 down the side line we set aside 16 cm and place point B8.
From point T2 to the left and right we put aside half of the side dart solution 6.8:2 = 3.4 cm and put points B9 and B10.
If the resulting size is more than 4 cm, then it is better to make two darts on the front and back panels of the skirt rather than putting everything in the side darts.
We connect points B9 and B10 with a dotted line to point B8. Using a compass, align the sides of the dart along greater from the sides and put point B11.
If you are creating a pattern for a proportionally folded figure, divide the sides of the dart in half and set aside 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the marked division points at right angles to the auxiliary lines and draw the side lines in a smooth curve.
If you are dealing with a figure in which the steepness of the hips has its own characteristics, then the side line should be brought into line with this steepness. Moreover, this does not mean that the side line should follow the curves of the figure. Rather, it means that by changing the configuration of the side line, you can change the accents, i.e. hide something, veil it and thus achieve the desired visual effect.
Rice. 14
When cutting in places that cause you doubts, increase the allowances for later clarification during fitting and possible correction of cut details.
Finally, we draw the line of the upper cut of the skirt with a concave line with closed darts. The line of the top cut of the skirt should approach the middle lines at a right angle.
Rice. 15
The construction is complete.
This is a basic straight skirt pattern.
Based on it, you can create various styles of skirts.
Rice. 16
Rice. 17
In the near future, we will present to our visitors several more methods for constructing a skirt pattern, which to one degree or another take into account the characteristics of non-standard figures.
I wish you inspiration and confidence in your abilities.
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