How to sew a long dress for a girl. DIY elegant dress for a girl: patterns and knitting patterns

Pattern: fluffy dress for a girl with a pleated skirt (for 9 years)

Pattern: fluffy dress for girls with a circle skirt (for 9 years)

How to sew a fluffy dress for a girl

Step 1: For a pleated dress, start from the bottom first. Process the bottom of the product and then add bow folds; you can see how to make a skirt with pleats in this

Step 2: Sew the side and shoulder seams on the top of the dress.

Step 3. Sew the edges on the skirt. If you have chosen a model with a circle skirt (I wrote about how to sew a circle skirt), sweep the top section of the skirt and gather it to the size of the bottom section of the top of the dress. Then sew the skirt to the top.

Step 4. For convenience, sew a zipper into the back middle seam.

Step 5: Sew seams on the sleeves, if any. Baste the top edges and sew in the sleeves.

Step 6. To make the skirt even fuller, you should make a tulle petticoat identical to the main skirt. Pull it over the dress, tuck it in and sew it to the zipper, and then to the seam of the skirt.

Pattern of a fluffy dress for a girl

Download the patterns at the end of the post, open the PDF file and print at full size. Cut out the parts and transfer them onto fabric.

Dress pattern for a 2 year old girl (download below)

What do you need:

60 cm elastic fabric for the top,
90 cm of knitted fabric for a skirt,
paper pattern.

The width of the fabric cut for the skirt is 90 cm, and the length depends on your preferences (measure from the girl’s waistline).

Finish the bottom edge of the sleeves. Cut off the excess on the small sleeves (shown by the arrow). Baste and tighten a little so that the top of the sleeve becomes 12.5 cm. Sew the sleeves to the front and back top flange. Sew the side seams on the top of the girls' dress.

Sew the braid to the neckline. It is better to sew with a stretch seam, such as a zigzag or stretch seam.

Process the bottom of the future skirt. Baste the top and tighten the thread until the resulting size for the top of the skirt matches the bottom of the top. Pin the skirt to the top and sew.

Another dress for a girl, made using this pattern

MK: how to quickly sew a fluffy dress with a ballet skirt

And here is another option for a fluffy dress for a girl. It can be sewn together in a matter of minutes, since the top part will already be ready. We will take a blouse of the appropriate size for her.

What you will need:

Blouse (can be a T-shirt),
50 cm of knitted material for the petticoat,
1 m tulle,
elastic band.

Step 1. Cut off the excess part of the sweater so that it ends at the girl’s waist.

Step 2. Sew on a wide elastic band.

Step 3. Cut two trapezoidal pieces from knitted fabric. To do this, attach the fabric to the cut of the blouse and, starting from the waist, draw two oblique lines. Cut out the resulting A-shaped pieces and sew along the sides.

Step 4. Cut the tulle into 2 equal pieces for a two-layer skirt. Baste the cuts along the top and cut to the size of the bottom of the top of the dress (in other words, to the size of the top section of the petticoat). Sew the tulle skirt to the petticoat, and then sew it to the wide elastic band on the top of our dress.

Master class: how to sew a dress for a girl from an adult sweatshirt

Now let's see how to transform your sweater into a dress for a girl. To work, you only need the sweatshirt itself.

First you need to rip off the sleeves. Then attach the child’s T-shirt to the jacket folded in half, tucking it in at the bottom (tuck it where the waist begins). Trace and cut out the top. On the bottom, draw areas for pockets along the top of the dress. Next, draw a straight line to the bottom. Cut out the bottom of the product.

Cut pockets from the remaining fabric. To do this, attach the sections for the pockets on the skirt to the fabric, outline, and draw the remaining part.

From the sleeves of the sweatshirt, cut out sleeves for a baby dress. To do this, attach the sleeve to the top of the dress and draw a curved line from the bottom. Sew in pockets.

Jacket dresses for girls - final

Sew the top and bottom. A dress for a girl from a sweatshirt is ready!

For the lesson we have prepared several models of summer dresses. To make a pattern for each of them you will need one created according to individual measurements taken from your inch figurine. You can, of course, create the base pattern yourself. by any method. We suggest using our generator, just enter your body measurements into the form and the program will create a pattern in a matter of minutes. All you have to do is print the pattern on a printer of any format. The cost of such a basic pattern is small, but the value is enormous. You can use it many times. And today we will show you how. Let's start the lesson.

Summer dress with pockets

The first dress is sewn from a children's dress with virtually no changes.

Basically, we just need to place a pocket on the front piece. Our pocket is not simple, but figured, with two entrances. The upper part of the pocket is finished with contrasting trim and piping. Connected to the dress with buttons.

1 step modeling. Let's adapt the neck, make it a little wider and deeper.

Step 2. Draw the top line of the pocket onto the dress front pattern piece. According to the model, the top cut of the pocket falls directly along the waistline of the dress.

Step 3. Parallel to the top line of the pocket, mark the binding of the desired width.

Dress with bow

A dress for a baby with a counter pleat from the neckline and a bow looks very cute and stylish. Try sewing it for your daughter, because the pattern is very easy to model!

1 step– slightly widen and deepen the neck

Step 2– mark ½ of the depth of the counter fold along the center line of the shelf.

Step 3. Cut out a strip for the bow

Waist cut dress

This is a cute summer dress for girls, made in a nautical theme. Its model with a cut-off skirt, short sleeves and a sailor collar - a guy, is also modeled on the basis of our basic pattern.

1 step. Raise your waistline by 3-4 cm. Check its girth by comparing it with your measurements.

Step 2. Shorten the sleeve to the desired length. Check the sleeve width and arm circumference.

Step 3. The collar pattern is constructed using the details of the back and front. This way you can easily navigate its size and proportions. Trust the sketch and your taste. The picture shows how to mark the lines of the collar and then match the shoulder line to make it seamless.

Step 4. We recommend cutting out the skirt for the dress in the form of a rectangle, this will make it easier to trim the bottom of the skirt with a wide hem, and it will puff up nicely. Don't forget to decorate the bottom of the dress, the bottom of the sleeves, and the collar with contrasting braid!

Step 5. The belt consists of two rectangular parts, approximately 0.5-0.7 meters long, depending on the size of the dress itself, 6-8 cm wide when finished. It can also be decorated with braid. Insert the waistband pieces into the side seams when sewing the bodice pieces.

Elegant dress

The next model is an elegant children's dress. Seam just above the waist, wide gathered skirt. It is a little similar to the previous one, but there are some differences. The bodice of the dress has raised seams from the shoulder to the waistline, into which a wide frill is inserted - a wing. The shelf is finished in the form of horizontal folds and tucks. Zip fastening at the back. There is a bow belt on the back along the waistline.

1 step. After we have determined the new location of the waist line, raising it a little (according to the model), we will begin drawing relief lines. The reliefs on the front and back begin at the point dividing the shoulder section in half and end perpendicular to the new waistline.

Step 2. The middle part of the shelf must be folded and stitched to their depth. Direct the folds of the folds downwards. We recommend preparing this front part with larger allowances, and when the folds are processed, stitched and ironed, correct the part by applying the pattern.

Step 3. The pattern of wing frills is a rectangle 10-15 cm wide (depending on the size of the dress) and a length equal to the length of the front and back relief and increased by 1.5-2 times.

Step 4. The bow belt is also cut rectangular. 15-20 cm wide. Consists of two parts, 0.5-0.8 cm long, and is sewn into the stitching seam of the reliefs with the main parts of the bodice.

Step 5. As in the previous dress, we recommend making the skirt rectangular, in one piece. Its width is equal to 1.5-2 times the length of the waist line according to the bodice pattern! Fastening in the middle back seam.

Summer sundress with ties at the back

The pattern for a summer sundress for a girl is also modeled on a children's dress.

1 step. Let's mark the cutting line of the bodice from the skirt.

Step 2. According to the sketch, we will outline the width of the bodice yoke. Along the back, the yoke goes into a tie belt of arbitrary length (the width is equal to the width of the yoke along the back).

Step 3. The strap is cut in one piece and is equal to the distance from the front yoke to the top of the back yoke, over the shoulder. Strap width approx. Equal to 1/3 of the length of the shoulder.

Step 4 The skirt can be cut in the form of a rectangle. As in the previous case of the dress. We show in the figure another way to model a skirt.

Sundress for girls

1 step. First you need to get rid of the shoulder dart on the back. Let's just ignore it, in this model it can be done without fear, it will not affect the final result in any way.

Step 2. Let's outline the raglan lines along which we will cut off the shoulder part of the front and back. Let's focus on the sketch.

Step 3. Let's mark cut lines along the parts, with the help of which we will move the pattern apart to form an assembly.

Step 4. Cut out the tie in the form of a ribbon of arbitrary length. Its width is 4-5 cm, depending on the plasticity and thickness of the fabric. The tie is threaded into a drawstring formed by a wide hem allowance along the top of the front and back neckline. The degree of tying of the ribbon will determine the width of the neck of the dress and the depth of the armhole. A very successful model of a summer sundress that can grow with your child (you can also make a hem at the bottom with a margin)!

We hope our lesson today will be useful to you! Thank you for being with us.

3. Detailed master class on sewing a dress for a girl from Elena (Elena laitdream)

A dress for a girl turns out to be super budget-friendly. It could be dad's shirt and a little lace, mom's skirt and some kind of applique, or a funny-sized piece of fabric - a remnant from her sewn dress.

Children's dress r 86-92 .

Dress Materials:

· Fabric that holds its shape (cotton, linen, gabardine, crepe, shirt fabric, etc.): with a width of 1 m - 0.8 m, with a width of 1.5 m - 0.5 m

· Zipper or button closure

· Cotton, lawn for lining – 0.6 m at any width

· Trim: lace – 2.5 m, 3 buttons

Girls, sorry for the corrections in the pattern: at first I wanted to give a more universal one (front-back clasp), and then I realized that I would only confuse those who are not yet very smart at “swimming” in this matter... But, alas, I no longer have the strength to redraw it! ))))) only the crossed out words were corrected - they are not needed, the rest is completely correct.

1. Open it up. Using the patterns, we cut out the parts: front – 1 part with a fold, back – 2 parts, skirt – one part with a fold.

2. Assembling and processing the top of the dress:

a. We assemble the dress along the shoulder sections, trim the allowances to a comfortable size - 1-1.5 cm, and iron them. Leave the side seams open.

b. Place the resulting piece face to face on a piece of cotton fabric that will be used as a lining.

c. We carefully smooth out the details, making sure that the front of the dress and the lining match perfectly. We chop off the parts and cut out the lining

d. In this case, it is not necessary to baste; you can prick the tailor’s pins like this and safely stitch along them: the machine easily passes over the pins if they are inserted clearly perpendicular to the stitch line, and the chance that the machine’s needle will hit the pin is minimal.

e. We line up the neckline and both armholes, iron them, cut off the allowances to 0.5-0.7, and if necessary, cut the allowances at the rounded areas. Please note that we sew the beginning and end of each armhole along the side seam allowance slightly obliquely - this is important.

f. Having placed the resulting part with the lining up and the front towards you, we place our hand between the dress and the lining, with the other hand we help ourselves and pull the back lining towards us through the shoulder tunnels

Repeat with the other half of the back. Straighten the inverted part.

g. Carefully sweep out the edge of the armholes and neckline, making sure that the 1 mm roll goes to the wrong side of the dress - then the lining will not be visible. We iron it to make sure it’s done well and stitch it along the front side of the dress.

h. We sew the side seams, not forgetting to make a reliable fastening at the armhole itself. To do this, I do this: I start stitching from the armhole to the waist line, but not from the very edge of the armhole, but stepping back 3-5 mm from the processed edge of the armhole. I sew two or three stitches, turn on the reverse and return the stitch to the very edge of the armhole, then, releasing the reverse, I sew a regular stitch. Why is this so? – the beginning of the stitching will be inside the seam, the beginning of the side seam will be secure and without any knots. We process the cuts (zigzag, overlock) and manually secure the side seam allowances at the armhole. The corners of the allowances should be below the edge of the armhole so that they do not peek out. It was for this purpose that we made slightly beveled lines along the allowances at the beginning and end of the armhole (see point 4).

3. Connecting the top of the dress and the skirt. We fold the skirt and top of the dress face to face, carefully aligning the marked pattern lines so that after sewing the middle back seam, all the lines clearly coincide. We sew down the waist seam, overcast the edges and iron the seam allowances upward. Place the lace on the waist seam line, sew along both edges if the lace is wide, and along the bottom edge at the waist if it is narrow.

4. Clasp. We sew the back seam of the dress, paying close attention to the perfect match of all the lines in the “middle seam-waist line” section. We iron the middle seam as follows: the left back part – we fold the seam allowance to the wrong side, the right back part – we don’t fold the seam allowance, we leave it even. We process the slices separately. We manually sew the allowance on the left back part to the neckline and sew out an air loop for the button. On the right part we sew a button under the fastener.

Advice: You can decorate the dress with a zipper, but then you definitely need a non-hidden zipper, because... a hidden zipper will be a bit harsh for delicate baby skin.

5. Dress hem. We draw the hem line. To do this, we process the cut with an overlock or zigzag, apply lace to the face of the skirt and stitch it either with a small zigzag or with a double needle, depending on the thickness of the fabric and lace.

6. Iron the dress. Ready.

Important! If there is no single piece of fabric for lining or the size of the future dress is such that it does not fit into the existing width of the fabric, then the same thing can be made from a stitched lining. To do this, we cut out the front and back pieces from the lining fabric, connect them along the shoulder seams, iron them - and then work as if they were a single piece. A small condition - you need to ensure that the shoulder seams match and carefully trim the allowances so that there is no noticeable thickening at the junction of the dress seam and the lining.

You can sew many charming models of children's clothing yourself, spending very little time on their modeling. But first, you will need a basic pattern for a dress for a preschool girl, which you can build using our instructions. In the future, it can be used when modeling various styles of children's clothing - not only dresses, but also blouses, sweatshirts, bomber jackets, etc. In this lesson, we will tell you in detail how to create a pattern for the base of a shoulder product, as well as a sleeve pattern and a turn-down pattern collar to her.

Advice! The basic pattern of a shoulder product, the construction of which is given in the article, can be used to model shoulder products for girls and boys of preschool and primary school age - dresses, blouses, sweatshirts, vests, jackets, etc.

To create a pattern, you need to take the following measurements (in the example, measurements for a height of 122 cm are used):

Bust 61 cm
Length to back waist (DTS) 29 cm
Length to waist front (accident) 31 cm
Armhole depth 15 cm
Back width 26 cm
Armhole width 7.2 cm
Front width 26 cm
Shoulder length 9 cm
Neck circumference 30 cm
Hip height 12 cm
Back length 60 cm

Constructing a pattern for the basis of a dress for a girl

From the upper left corner of the sheet, step back 5-6 cm and place point A. From point A, draw a vertical line down and set it aside:

AG = Armhole depth as measured + approx. = 15 cm + 1.5 cm = 16.5 cm.
AT = Length to back waist (DTS) = 29 cm.
TB = 12 cm (Hip height).
AN = 60 cm (Product length according to measurements).

From points A, D, T, B and H, draw horizontal lines of arbitrary length to the right.

Grid width: from point G, draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length to the right and set aside along the horizontal line:

GG1 = ½ Back Width by Measurement (ShS) + approx. = 26/2 + 1.5 = 13 cm + 1.5 cm = 14.5 cm.
G1G2 = Armhole width according to measurement (Shpr) + approx. = 7.2 cm + 2 = 9.2 cm.
G2G3 = ½ Chest Width according to measurement (SH) + approx. = 13 cm + 1.5 cm = 14.5 cm.

Draw a vertical segment through point G3; at the intersection with the horizontal lines, points B, T1, B1, H1 are obtained.

From point G1, draw a straight line upward until it intersects with line AB - point P is obtained. From point G2, draw an upward perpendicular of arbitrary length.

Side line. Divide the segment G1G2 in half - you get point G4 and from point G4 lower the side line down to line HH1 - you get point H2. Designate the point of intersection with the line TT1 with the letter T2, the point of intersection with the waist line BB1 - B2.

Lifting the shelf. From point T1 up, set aside the Length to the front waist according to the measurement: T1W = 31 cm. From point W, draw a horizontal segment to the left, at the intersection with the perpendicular from point G2, point P1 is obtained.

Building a back pattern

Neckline. From point A to the right, set aside AA1 = 6 cm (1/6 of the neck circumference according to the measurement plus 1 cm for all sizes): 15/3 + 1 = 6 cm. From point A1 up, set aside A1A2 = 1.5 cm (for all sizes) and connect points A and A2 with a slightly concave line along the pattern.

Back shoulder line. From point P down, set aside 1.5 cm. From point A2 through point 1.5 (shoulder slope), draw a back shoulder line A2P2 = 10 cm (shoulder length according to measurement + 1 cm for fit).

Armhole line of the back of the dress. From point G1, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 cm. Draw the armhole line from point P2 through the dividing point of the segment PG1, point 2 (bisector of the angle) to point G4.

Constructing a front pattern

Neckline. From point Ш, draw a front neckline cutout using a compass: ШШ1 = R = 1/6 Neck circumference according to measurement + 1 cm for all sizes): 30 cm / 6 + 1 cm = 6 cm.

Front shoulder line. From point P1 downwards, set aside 3 cm. Connect point Ш1 and point 3 with a straight line and extend it to the left. Set aside along the line the segment Ш1П3 = 9 cm = Shoulder length according to measurement.

Armhole line. Draw the bisector of the angle G2 and set aside 2 cm along it. Draw the armhole line from point P3 through the midpoint of dividing the segment 3-G2, point 2 (bisector) to point G4.

Modeling flared side seams

To model flared side seams on the base pattern of a dress for a girl, from point H2 to the left and right, set aside the required value (the measurement is not constant and may vary depending on the style of the product and the design decision). Draw the back bottom line H-H3 and the bottom line H1-H4 using smooth lines with a slight rise in the side seams.

Pattern-basis of a dress for a girl with flared side seams

Separately, copy the back and front pattern onto tracing paper and use the basic pattern for further modeling of the products.

You will find even more interesting and bright ideas, useful tips, and patterns for children's clothing on the website. Subscribe to our free lessons and sew children's clothes with us, because it is not only very simple, but also incredibly exciting!

You will need

1.5 m of fabric for a dress;
70 cm of tulle or mesh for the petticoat;
wide elastic band;
scissors;
threads to match the fabric;
bias tape;
lace, rhinestones, sequins, fabric flowers

Instructions

Take measurements of your small model. To do this, tie the waist line with braid and measure its length. In addition, you will need the following measurements: bodice length, skirt length, sleeve length, wrist circumference. The length of the bodice is equal to the distance from the shoulder seam to the braid at the waist. The length of the skirt is measured from the waist to the desired hemline. Sleeve length is taken from the shoulder seam through the elbow to the desired sleeve line. Hand girth is measured at the thinnest part of the hand.

When all the measurements are taken, you can start cutting. The easiest way to make a pattern is to use a knitted T-shirt that fits the girl well. Place the T-shirt on a piece of whatman paper and carefully trace the contours of the back and front.

To get a pattern for the front of the dress, you need to transfer the length measurements of the bodice to the front of the T-shirt and mark with chalk the bottom line along which you need to cut the fabric. The trimmed part of the front must be placed on the back and also trimmed.

The sleeve pattern is done like this: draw a T-shirt sleeve on a sheet of paper, then draw a vertical line from the top of the sleeve on the resulting drawing and mark the length of the sleeve on it. Through this point you need to draw a perpendicular line, on which mark half the measurement of the girth of the hand. Using straight lines, connect the marked points on the line of the edge of the sleeve with the points on the armhole. Finally, cut out the sleeve.

Now you need to make a pattern for the back, front, and sleeves on the fabric. To do this, place the front and back on the fabric and outline them with chalk. Don't forget to mark the fastener line on the back, 10 to 15 cm long. Draw the paper sleeve on the fabric in the same way, then turn the pattern over to the other side and outline the second sleeve. Add 1.5 cm to the seams at the shoulder, front and back armholes. To the side sections, front and back waist sections, the bottom of the sleeves - 1.5-2 cm. To the sleeve edges - 1.5 cm. To the lower, front, elbow sections - 1.5-2 cm. Add an allowance to the neck sections No need.

Now you need to cut out the details from the remaining fabric: a strip along an oblique thread for processing the neckline (3-3.5 cm wide), a strip for processing the fastener (5-5.5 cm wide), a strip for the skirt (1.8-2 m long , the width is two lengths of the skirt plus 2 cm). You will also need some belt tape.

Let's proceed directly to the sewing process. First, process the fastener on the back with a facing: from the neckline to the middle of the back, sew straight hand stitches, overcast the edges of the facing. On the front side of the back, baste the facing, placing it face down and the raw edge towards the neckline. Then lay two parallel lines along the fastener, the distance between them should be 0.5-0.8 cm. Make a cut between the lines, not reaching the end 0.1-0.2 cm. Turn the facing onto the wrong side of the back and straighten the edges of the fastener . Place finishing stitches 0.5 cm long along the edges of the fastener.

Then connect the shoulder sections and straighten them without ironing. Finish the neckline with a bias strip using an open-cut edge stitch and overcast it.

Sew the sleeves into the bodice armholes. Connect the tops of the sleeves to the shoulder seams, pushing the sleeves down slightly. Sew the sleeves into the 1.5 cm wide armholes, stitching along the sleeves, and overcast the edges. Don't forget to remove the threads at the end of this process.

Now you need to connect the sleeve sections and the side sections of the bodice. To do this, they need to be folded with the front side inward, pinned with a pin, and the sections of the sleeve and bodice are sewn together without interrupting the stitching.

The next step is processing the bottom of the sleeve. To do this, you need to overcast its lower edges and stitch 1-1.5 cm to the wrong side.

Processing the skirt of an elegant dress goes like this. First of all, you need to sew a strip of curtain silk and iron the stitched seam. The longitudinal section of the skirt must be stitched, leaving an open, unedged seam 1 cm wide. Sew a machine stitch at a distance of 1.5 cm from the second section of the skirt. The second line is laid at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the first line. There are no hooks at the beginning or end of these lines. Pull the thread ends of these machine stitches together and distribute the gathers evenly. The length of the gathered section of the skirt should be equal to the length of the bottom section of the bodice. This gathered edge is pinned to the bodice, the seam of the skirt is aligned with the middle of the back. Sew the skirt to the bodice, with the seam facing toward the skirt.