History of women's fashion of the 20th century. History of fashion of the 20th century

It just so happened that it was in the last century that fashion was destined to undergo colossal changes. There are several reasons for this: first of all, the wars that shook humanity in the twentieth century played a role, and besides them, a rethinking of the place of women in society. As a result, we can safely say that no other century has been so rich and interesting in terms of changing views on clothing, shoes, accessories and hairstyles. So, let's take a closer look at the fundamental moments in the history of fashion of the twentieth century.

First half of the century: 1900-1940s

It would be most correct to consider the history of fashion by decade, since the main moments of development coincided precisely with the beginning of each new decade.

1900

The beginning of the century was marked by the abandonment of the bustle, and in 1906, the abandonment of the corset. The last merit belongs entirely to the fashion reformer, Paul Poiret, who freed women from slimming, but in their own way, deadly corsets.

1910

Russian ladies also made their contribution to the formation of fashion in the 1910s. During this period, the so-called “Russian Seasons” of Sergei Diaghilev, which took place in Paris, were especially popular, so there was an influence of Russian fashion on French and vice versa, as well as their interpenetration.

1920

In the twenties, the fashion industry underwent a complete rethink. Since sports, women's independence and emancipation became especially popular at this time, long floor-length dresses and huge hats were replaced by a completely different type of women's clothing. Thus, the ideal of beauty becomes a thin, boyish woman with a short garçon haircut, who can smoke, play tennis and drive a car just like a man. Fashion includes cloche hats, straight silhouettes of dresses and multi-faceted decoration of things. So, in the twenties, art deco ruled the roost. By the way, it was at this time that the little black dress from Coco Chanel first appeared.

1930

In the thirties, Hollywood became the standard for the fashion industry, and every woman dreams of dressing like Marlene Dietrich. At this time, skirts are lengthening again - the mid-calf length, which was popular in the twenties, is no longer comme il faut. There is a move away from the straight Art Deco silhouette and a return to traditional feminine forms.

1940

The beginning of the forties in the fashion industry was significantly spoiled by the war. This leads to the fact that less and less fabric is being supplied for women’s outfits - skirts are becoming shorter, and minimalist outfits made of viscose and acetate silk predominate. A distinctive feature of things of that time are small floral prints.

After the end of the war, Christian Dior revolutionized fashion, returning the opportunity for ladies to feel feminine again - so, the fashion industry was literally blown up by the New Look style, which popularized the oval and straight styles, as well as the hourglass style, which became his signature.

In the same forties, Mademoiselle Coco released fashion models onto the catwalk in suits that had become classics of the genre with a straight skirt and jacket a la Chanel.

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Second half of the century: even more changes

1950

Since the fifties, the history of fashion has developed even more rapidly. Since the war was left behind, women again began to devote more time to their own appearance, clothes, shoes and makeup. In the fifties, the hourglass dress style remained at the peak of popularity. Along with these emphatically feminine outfits, trousers come to the fore and become especially popular.

1960

The sixties went down in fashion history as the time of birth of the legendary thing - the miniskirt, the creation of which the world owes to designer Mary Quant. This period can be characterized as the first machinations of youth rebellion. At this time, much attention is paid to decorations - and the larger and brighter they are, the better. Synthetic clothing is reaching a new level and is becoming increasingly popular due to its practicality.

1970

In the late sixties and early seventies, hippie fashion began to play a significant role: torn jeans, flared trousers, colorful vests, spacious blouses and shirts, headbands, bag bags, bracelets made of ribbons and threads, and so on.

Also in the seventies, the first machinations of unisex appeared - straight jeans and overalls are now worn not only by men, but also by women. In addition, flared trousers, shirt dresses, tunics and turtlenecks, as well as shoes with thick high heels and platforms, began to occupy a prominent place in the wardrobe.

1980

The eighties are a special period in the history of fashion. During these years, the development of the fashion industry is largely dictated by music - techno, disco, punk, post-punk, gothic, and other trends turn out to be fundamental. Women are starting to use "shoulder pads" to give their figure more angularity. The same purpose is served by the popular methods of cutting sleeves in the spirit of kimono, raglan and batwing. Jeans must now certainly have a “cooked” effect. Fashion includes bright leggings and leggings, voluminous sweater dresses and black leather jackets. The eighties were the reign of designers who preferred an unconventional approach to fashion (for example, John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Jean-Paul Gaultier).

1990

The nineties went down in fashion history as the “denim” years – at this time denim gained enormous popularity. Not far behind it are sneakers and low-top shoes, which are becoming ubiquitous. A riot of colors and unisex are the hallmarks of nineties fashion.

Let's sum it up

The fashion of the twentieth century is by no means a frozen picture, but a complex dynamic process, changes in which occurred rapidly and radically. Each new decade brought some updates not only in terms of clothing and shoes, but also in the canons of beauty of the female body.

Each era leaves its mark on all spheres of human life, and fashion is no exception. It would be even more correct to say that it is in fashion that all the trends of eras are reflected.

Delving into the history of fashion of the 20th century is a very exciting activity. The very concept of “fashion” is associated primarily with France. And 20th century fashion was no exception. The progenitors of almost all fashionable innovations of the last century were the French.

"French" fashion of the 20th century

At the beginning of the century, the Frenchman Paul Poiret gave women the opportunity to breathe deeply (literally!) - by abolishing the corset. He also made dresses shorter and radically changed the cut of women's dresses. Thanks to Poiret, straight-cut dresses, shirt dresses, tight skirts, women's blazers, and kimono dresses appeared. In 1912, this great Frenchman showed his first fashion show.

Of course, the fashion of the early 20th century is also a great masterpiece. In women's fashion of the 20s of the last century, it was Chanel who introduced elements of a men's suit - jackets, trousers, shirts with a tie. It was at this time that she created her famous black little dress.

The way of life is changing radically. Women have increasingly begun to engage in responsible and complex work on an equal basis with men. The standard becomes an athletic female figure with narrow hips and a flat chest. At the same time, dresses with an oblique hem, a very low waistline (somewhere on the hip line) and a midi length came into fashion.

The fashion of the 30s of the 20th century again brings to the fore the romantic female image with a sensual bright mouth and finely curled hair. Another great woman of that era introduced the tuxedo into women's fashion at the beginning of the 20th century.

Thanks to Hollywood divas, all kinds of stoles, boas, fur boas, capes, which successfully complement dresses made of satin, brocade or natural silk, are becoming very popular.

The rocking Forties also had a lasting influence on 20th century fashion. Alas, in harsh wartime there was no time for luxury, and fashionable clothes began to resemble military uniforms. Although already in 1947 he showed a new collection “New Look”, which had the effect of an exploding bomb. A very feminine look was presented with full hips and rounded shoulders, a narrow waist and a high bust. Full petticoats and transparent blouses appeared. Interest in decorative cosmetics is returning, and backcombing is coming into fashion. A woman becomes a Woman again.

Mid-century. gives the world capri pants. Fashion of the 50s of the 20th century plunges into the world of new forms, proportions, silhouettes. Every woman is provided with a huge selection of clothing models to suit every taste. He comes into the world of fashion with his own style. The appearance of the bikini makes a splash. Fashion of the mid-20th century gives the world more than one revolutionary discovery. First of all, Vivier Roger comes up with 7-8 cm high stiletto heels, which became a symbol of the era. The Great Coco presents her famous costumes, now bearing her name.

The explosion was caused by hippie fashion, revolutionizing the understanding of youth fashion - denim has been firmly and for a long time included in the fashion collections of all fashion designers. And, of course, these are the miniskirts of the Englishwoman Mary Count. At the same time, the fashion capital of the world moves from Paris to London, temporarily.

English fashion of the 20th century

Foggy Albion of the last century became the cradle of some fashion trends that gave impetus to the modern casual style. First of all, this is the Modos style, characterized by a passion for impeccable taste and quality. The legendary The Beatles were adherents of this style. Then skinheads, hippies, and a little later - punks appear. And only then does the casual style appear, which today, in terms of its semantic richness, ranks second after the classical style.

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At all times, women have strived to look beautiful. Clothes play an important role in creating a beautiful appearance. Modern fashionistas adhere to different style trends, there are a huge number of alternatives in fashion these days, and the choice of clothing is amazing. But I propose to plunge into the past and see how fashion has changed over different decades.

30s

In 1929, the world was gripped by an economic crisis, which made its own adjustments to the world of the fashion industry. Clothes were treated with care and care; old items were mended and altered.

To achieve the elongated silhouette that was fashionable in those years, frills, ruffles, and flounces were sewn onto old dresses.

The length of dresses and skirts reached the ankles, and the skirts were cut on the bias. Mandatory elements of women's clothing were puffed sleeves, deep cutouts in the neckline and back, and turn-down collars.

The film industry has had a great influence on fashion. The main style icons were famous film actresses of the 30s, such as Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Bette Davis, Joan Crawford, Katharine Hepburn. These women showed what is now called “Hollywood chic”: dresses with trains, decorated with fabric flowers, bows, and a long peplum.

Fur was considered a chic accessory; fur capes and capes were especially popular. Handbags, various hats (with wide brims, small pillbox hats, berets) and gloves are mandatory clothing attributes for fashionistas of the 30s.

Outstanding designers of that time include Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. Chanel offered conservative, classic models. Elsa Schiaparelli amazed with her extravagant, avant-garde outfits.

40s

On the fashion of the 40s. The Second World War had a great impact. Silhouettes with broad shoulders and military style have come into fashion. Women's jackets resembled men's military uniforms. The length of skirts and dresses became shorter, just below the knees. The shortage of accessories led to the start of making homemade buttons covered with fabric.

Regarding headdresses, hats were replaced with scarves. In the USA and Europe, a turban was considered especially chic, which was made from scarves and tied in various ways.

The most desired element of every fashionista's wardrobe were thin stockings made of nylon or silk. But it was practically impossible to get them, since nylon and silk were used in sewing parachutes, so the use of these fabrics for other purposes was prohibited. Women were forced to imitate stockings by drawing a seam on the back of their legs.

At the end of the war, in the mid-40s. There have been changes in fashion. In 1945, Cristobal Balenciaga was the first to demonstrate models of dresses with long skirts. At the beginning of 1946, dresses and sheath skirts came into fashion, emphasizing the hips, and by the end of the year, full skirts and asymmetrical hemlines became popular.

50s

The most iconic style of the 1950s was the New Look, introduced by Christian Dior. Dresses were supposed to emphasize the dignity of the figure: a full bust, thin waist, rounded hips.

The hourglass silhouette was a complete contrast to the straight, wide-shouldered silhouette that was so fashionable in the 1940s. At first, the public was shocked, because it took about 40-50 meters of fabric to sew one Dior dress. This was considered an exorbitant waste, an unaffordable luxury after the ascetic minimalism of the war years. But Christian Dior insisted that femininity and grace must return to fashion.

In the early 50s, the flared skirt was especially popular. A little later, a sexy and more practical pencil skirt came into fashion.

A corset, which tightens the waist to 50 cm, became an obligatory element of a woman’s wardrobe. At the same time, skirts were mostly full and multi-layered.

Among the popular accessories, small pillbox hats, multiple jewelry, sunglasses, various handbags, and scarves were popular.

60s

The fashion of the 60s brought great changes to society. If initially the image of a luxurious mature woman was cultivated, now fashion has deliberately set a course for youth. French designers have faded into the background. British fashion designers who came up with the image of a London dude became popular.

Cut geometry, bright saturated colors, psychedelic patterns, fabrics with lurex, glitter, polyester, nylon - all this characterized the clothes of the 60s.

At the same time, the hippie style became popular with the image of the London dude. The clothes were distinguished by their simplicity of form - flared trousers, mini-dresses, mini-skirts. But much attention was paid to accessories and shoes: high suede boots with fringes, huge plastic glasses, voluminous jewelry, wide belts.

Another innovation was the unisex style. Many girls have given up their long hair without regret, getting a “boyish” haircut. The unisex style icon was the famous model Twiggy. The legendary group "The Beatles" can be called prominent representatives of men's fashion in the 60s.

70s

In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, it can be said that it was in those years that people had more means to express themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction; everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

The most fashionable element of the wardrobe was jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time were A-line skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, A-line dresses, and shirt dresses.

In addition, it should be noted that clothes have become more comfortable and practical. The concept of a basic wardrobe has emerged, consisting of the required number of things that are combined with each other.

As for shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.

Among the designers in the 70s, Sonia Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonia Rykiel created convenient, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses made of woolen knitwear and mohair.

Also popular was Giorgio Armani, who proposed combining fashionable jeans with tweed jackets in one ensemble.

In the late 70s, designer Claude Montana gained recognition, creating military-style clothes with a fitted silhouette and, at the same time, a wide shoulder line.

80s

The style of the 1980s was associated with the expression “too much”, too much: too defiant, too bright, too provocative. Overt sexuality in outfits has come into fashion. It was demonstrated through tight-fitting clothes, miniskirts, leggings (now called leggings), open necklines, and shiny fabrics. Large “gold” jewelry was also held in high esteem.

High fashion was distinguished by rich embroidery and decoration, while disco and punk reigned in democratic fashion.

The main silhouette of clothes in the 80s was an inverted triangle. The emphasis was on wide shoulders, raglan or bat sleeves, and tapered trousers with a high belt (the so-called “bananas”).

Stretch jeans and bootcut jeans have come into fashion. Miniskirts, windbreaker jackets made of raincoat fabric, T-shirts with slogans, leather jackets, and elements of sportswear were also popular.

Businesswomen wore suits in the style of Chanel and Margaret Thatcher. Basically, these were wide double-breasted jackets combined with a miniskirt or trousers, and straight-cut jackets decorated with piping.

In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decorative elements enjoyed success: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

The positions of Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Kenzo, who in their collections focused on deconstructivism, playing with geometric shapes and colors, also gained a foothold.

90s

In the 1990s, the whole world was under the influence of an economic crisis. Many youth subcultures emerged whose slogan was a departure from standards and rejection of imposed morality. It was then that such a style direction as grunge arose. Things that have a worn look, specially aged, become relevant. Multi-layered, negligence, hippie and ethnic elements are encouraged.

A little later, clothes made of synthetic materials and bright neon colors came into fashion. It was usually worn by representatives of the neo-punk subculture.

In the mid-90s, glamor returned, with the pages of glossy magazines promoting luxury, shiny materials (brocade, satin, silk), furs, and jewelry.

In the late 90s, many designers gave a second wind to the retro style, using elements of historical costumes in their collections.

In the 90s, the world recognized the now iconic supermodel Kate Moss, who was the founder of a new style trend - heroin chic.

FASHION HISTORY OF THE 20TH CENTURY. Over the centuries, fashion has had different directions, determined by national characteristics, local customs, and cultural level. Fashion was divided into French, Italian, English and young American. Clothes made from expensive fabrics, often decorated with precious stones, cost a fortune and were passed down from generation to generation. Fashionable changes appeared not only thanks to the imagination of the tailor, but also to the whims of the ruler. For example, daring necklines arose because the king liked them, or disappeared because the queen had inexpressive breasts. Over the centuries, fashion has had different directions, determined by national characteristics, local customs, and cultural level. Fashion was divided into French, Italian, English and young American. Clothes made from expensive fabrics, often decorated with precious stones, cost a fortune and were passed down from generation to generation. Fashionable changes appeared not only thanks to the imagination of the tailor, but also to the whims of the ruler. For example, daring necklines arose because the king liked them, or disappeared because the queen had inexpressive breasts.

Where did fashion begin? At all times in all At all times in all countries, fashion was intended only for the upper strata of society. only for the upper strata of society. Clothes were created for idleness. Clothes were created for idleness. Fashionistas on the threshold of the twentieth century not only Fashionable women on the threshold of the twentieth century not only could not do their daily hairstyle, but even their daily hairstyle, but even dress themselves. At the end of the 19th century, you could dress yourself. At the end of the 19th century, making clothes became a kind of art of Haute Couture. the art of Haute Couture. Couturiers were revered as artists of fashion. Couturiers were revered as artists of fashion.

Interesting facts are reported by art critics... At the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900 At the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900, French fashion proved its indisputable superiority. The fashion department was headed by Madame Paquin - the first woman among top-class fashion designers to receive the Legion of Honor. Legion of Honor. In 1903, ballerina Isadora DuncanIn 1903, ballerina Isadora Duncan created a sensation by dancing in a loosecaused a sensation by dancing in a loose, see-through dress called a peplos, a see-through dress called a peplos, without a whalebone corset. without whalebone corset.

It’s interesting that... In the same year, Paul Poiret opened In the same year, Paul Poiret opened his own fashion house - his own fashion house began - the era of Poiret began. Having completed the revolution, the era of Poiret. Having carried out a revolution of silhouettes, Poiret freed women from silhouettes, Poiret freed women from a rigid corset. His dominance of the rigid corset. His dominance lasted until the First World War. His "Secrets of a well-dressed war. His "Secrets of a well-dressed woman" are still relevant today: women" are still relevant today: "...A woman with true taste selects "... A woman with true taste selects dresses and jewelry for herself in order to feel dresses and jewelry to feel beautiful. And not at all because she feels so beautiful. And not at all because someone else dresses like that...". someone else dresses like that...".

The incomprehensible Coco... The period between the two wars can be easily called the "Era of Chanel". boldly call it the “Era of Chanel”. The incomprehensible Chanel made the Incomprehensible Chanel made a revolution in fashion, giving women a revolution in fashion, giving women a modern look. In the midst of war in a modern look. At the height of the war in 1916, Coco Chanel introduced jersey into fashion. Beige machine-knitted jersey, considered "poor man's," has become a new revolutionary material. Clothes from Chanel were striking in their purity and severity of lines and were not just alien, but even hostile to decoration. The “Chanel” style radically changed the entire appearance of contemporaries. Coco introduced short haircuts for women into fashion. Even the richest ladies wore artificial pearls “from Chanel.” Coco Chanel introduced jersey into fashion. Beige machine-knitted jersey, considered "poor man's," has become a new revolutionary material. Clothes from Chanel were striking in their purity and severity of lines and were not just alien, but even hostile to decoration. The “Chanel” style radically changed the entire appearance of contemporaries. Coco introduced short haircuts for women into fashion. Even the richest ladies wore artificial pearls from Chanel.

So, the 20s... In 1922, the story was published. In 1922, the story by Victor Margett “Le garcon” was published, Victor Margett “Le garcon”, after which the name “garcon” was named for a new trend in fashion that arose in the 20s. in fashion, which arose in the 20s. The embodiment of this fashion was The embodiment of this fashion was Greta Garbo. Short-cropped hair, brightly painted little hair, brightly painted small mouth, defined eyebrows, straight dresses-mouth, defined eyebrows, straight-dressed shirts, open legs in silk sheer stockings and pointed sheer stockings and pointed pumps. Tall, slender wearing pumps. Tall, slender without pronounced hips and breasts, without pronounced hips and chest, a woman-boy diligently works out a woman-boy diligently plays sports, sunbathes, loves sports, sunbathes, loves jazz, dances the foxtrot and: WORKS.

“Little Black Dress” In 1924 - the length of the skirt is sharply reduced. In 1924 - the length of the skirt is sharply reduced. Coco Chanel invents the "little black dress". Vogue magazine presciently predicts Vogue presciently predicts that this simple black dress will become that this simple black dress will become a universal model, a universal model that will be worn by all women will be worn by all women. women. A unique invention A unique invention of Chanel has remained in the arsenal of modern fashion for many decades. modern fashion.

English Chanel style. During a trip to the United States, Patu, with the help of the editor of Vogue magazine, selected six American girls from high society with an ideal figure, according to the ideas of that time, trained them and brought them to Paris to demonstrate models. Russian beauties from noble families who fled the revolution in Russia worked as models at the House of Chanel. In 1928, the skirt barely covered the knees. Gabrielle Chanel brings English style into fashion and suggests wearing jewelry with it. During a trip to the United States, Patu, with the help of the editor of Vogue magazine, selected six American girls from high society with an ideal figure, according to the ideas of that time, trained them and brought them to Paris to demonstrate models. Russian beauties from noble families who fled the revolution in Russia worked as models at the House of Chanel. In 1928, the skirt barely covered the knees. Gabrielle Chanel brings English style into fashion and suggests wearing jewelry with it.

30s of the 20th century... Many items of modern Many items of modern wardrobe, which seem to us to be completely natural and as if completely natural and as if always present, were invented by always present, invented by Coco Chanel: a shoulder handbag, Coco Chanel: a handbag over the shoulder, metal jewelry, chains. metal jewelry, chains. Pivotal historical events. Pivotal historical events certainly have an impact on fashion. certainly influence fashion. Back in 1932, the chief of the Parisian police forbade Marlene Dietrich to go out in trousers, after she tried to go out into the street, after she tried to walk in that form along the Seine . How about walking along the Seine like this? And during World War II, trousers became common clothing for women who replaced men at work in the rear. During World War II, trousers became common clothing for women who replaced men at work in the rear.

40s of the 20th century... The war ended, and society expected The war ended, and society expected a new explosion of fashion, the appearance of a new explosion of fashion, the appearance of the first bikini swimsuits: In 1947, Christian Dior created a new style Christian Dior created a new style "New Look" . In the book "I am a Ladies' Tailor" he wrote: "... We left behind us the era of war, the era of uniforms, the era of war, uniforms. I painted women resembling flowers, gently convex shoulders, a rounded chest line, liana-like slender waists and wide , liana-like slender waists and a wide skirt, diverging towards the bottom, like the calyx of a flower, diverging towards the bottom, like the calyx of a flower...” Already in 1948, Dior’s “new style” was adopted not only by the whole of Europe, but also by America. accepted not only by all of Europe, but also by America.

50s of the 20th century... In the 50s. Along with the first line intended exclusively for youth, Dior creates several clothing styling lines under clothing styling lines under “N”, “X”, “U”, “A”, etc. Of course, “N”, “X”, “Y”, “A”, etc. It goes without saying that the fashion of the 50s was not created by Dior alone. was not created by Dior alone. The 50s were the time of the highest heyday and glory of Parisian haute couture. and the glory of Parisian haute couture. One of the Haute Couture houses that flourished at that time was the House of Hubert de Givenchy. Haute Couture Houses House of Hubert de Givenchy. This ideal stylistic duo reflected This ideal stylistic duo reflected the standard of elegance of the 50s. In 1957, fifty-two-year-old Christian Dior passed away. The following year, 21-year-old Yves Saint Laurent, as the chief fashion designer of the House of Dior, released his first sensational collection. And in 1962, the House of Yves Saint Laurent was created. the standard of 50s elegance. In 1957, fifty-two-year-old Christian Dior passed away. The following year, 21-year-old Yves Saint Laurent, as the chief fashion designer of the House of Dior, released his first sensational collection. And in 1962, the House of Yves Saint Laurent was created.

Hello Twiggy!... In the late 50s and early 60s, the standard of living in Europe increased greatly, which brought relatively high earnings to young people. There was a need to turn the closed world of Haute Couture towards the mass consumer, to make fashion both highly professional and industrial - pret-a-porter. The fashion of the 60s should be defined as fashion that took to the streets. The rebellious young generation sought to free itself from the “bourgeois values” of their parents. Children of the 60s demonstrated this in their clothes, choosing blue jeans as the main item of clothing. Jeans - the most universal and democratic clothing of our century - are becoming the uniform for the Woodstock generation. In the late 50s and early 60s, the standard of living in Europe increased greatly, which brought relatively high earnings to young people. There was a need to turn the closed world of Haute Couture towards the mass consumer, to make fashion both highly professional and industrial - pret-a-porter. The fashion of the 60s should be defined as fashion that took to the streets. The rebellious young generation sought to free itself from the “bourgeois values” of their parents. Children of the 60s demonstrated this in their clothes, choosing blue jeans as the main item of clothing. Jeans - the most universal and democratic clothing of our century - are becoming the uniform for the Woodstock generation.

Trends of the 60s... The sexual revolution also found its clear expression in fashion. In 1966, American Mary Quant was awarded an OBE at Buckingham Palace for services to British exports for what she invented: the MINISKIRT. Conservative England turned out to be the birthplace of not only the Beatles, but also the minis. Yves Saint Laurent and Emmanuel Ungaro became the authors of the second wave of “nude or naked fashion” (the first was in the era of the French Revolution). The space age inspired Paco Rabanne, and from his first fashion show in 1966, he began creating dresses from metal plates, pieces of glass, rings and hoops. The sexual revolution also found its clear expression in fashion. In 1966, American Mary Quant was awarded an OBE at Buckingham Palace for services to British exports for what she invented: the MINISKIRT. Conservative England turned out to be the birthplace of not only the Beatles, but also the minis. Yves Saint Laurent and Emmanuel Ungaro became the authors of the second wave of “nude or naked fashion” (the first was in the era of the French Revolution). The space age inspired Paco Rabanne, and from his first fashion show in 1966, he began creating dresses from metal plates, pieces of glass, rings and hoops.

An ode to Italian fashion. The world of high fashion is not only the World of high fashion not only reflects the surrounding reality, but also develops according to its own internal laws. Having released its first laws. Having released his first collection in 1965, the Italian Valentino Garavani immediately became a star on the fashion firmament. Valentino is a star on the fashion firmament. Valentino made a breakthrough for the Italians into the world made a breakthrough for the Italians into the world of Houte couture, monopolized by Houte couture, monopolized by the French. French. This allowed Italian fashion to establish itself throughout the world in the 70s. Italian fashion all over the world. Milan becomes the second capital of world fashion after Paris.

Romanticism of folklore. In the late 60s - early 70s In the late 60s - early 70s, a new new romantic style appears (the immediate impulse (the immediate impulse for this was the musical for this was the musical Bernstein's "Hair"). But on Bernstein " Hair"). But this time we are not talking about this time we are not talking about the romanticism of Dior's romanticism of Dior's salons, but about romanticism, salons, but about romanticism inspired by folk inspired by folk folklore. folklore.

Eastern motives. In the 70s with the "invasion" of the eastern In the 70s. with the “invasion” of the eastern world into the European style of clothing, the world into the European style of clothing, the successful activities of the Japanese Kenzo Takada, Mitsuhiro Japanese Kenzo Takada, Mitsuhiro Matsuda, Yohji Yamomoto, Rei Matsuda, Yohji Yamomoto, Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake begin. They are Kawakubo and Issey Miyake. They create original European Fashion and work with elements of traditional oriental clothing. Kenzo brings into European fashion Kenzo brings even elements of rural Eastern European costume into European fashion.

The 80s... For some, the 80s are defined by the aesthetics For some, the 80s are defined by the aesthetics of Giorgio Armani. For others, it's the era of Giorgio Armani. For others, this is the era of the rise of Gianni Versace, the rise of Gianni Versace, who created his first collection - created his first collection - pret-a-porter in 1978. Clothing from the house of pret-a-porter in 1978. Clothing from the house of Versace was in keeping with the spirit of the 80s , with their passion, Versace was in tune with the spirit of the 80s, with their passion for exalted chic and stunning to exalted chic and stunning glitter. Like more than one couturier, Gianni Versace shines. Like more than one couturier, Gianni Versace invested a lot in advertising. invested a lot in advertising activities. His shows were famous for Italian chic and His shows were famous for Italian chic and American scope. For the first time, thanks to American scope. For the first time, thanks to the media, a fashion designer became the media, a fashion designer became a cult figure. Becoming one of the world's cult figures. Having become one of the world famous stars, Gianni Versace managed to connect famous stars, Gianni Versace managed to connect the Super Star System with fashion. Super Star System with fashion.

It’s interesting that... Models from “walking clothes hangers” have finally turned into stars of show business. A "top" category has appeared. Top models have become no less cult figures than pop stars. Top models have become no less cult figures than pop stars and actresses. And, if in the 60s the names of Twiggy or Veruschka von Lehndorff were well known to fashion admirers, then, for example, Cindy Cromford is known to everyone today. Cindy Cromford is a household name these days. In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld became a fashion designer. In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld became a fashion designer for the House of Chanel, the third coming of the House of Chanel came, the third coming of the “Chanel style” came, which became an enduring classic. In the 80s, women won their place. In the 80s, women won their place in business, and it seemed to them that the only way to succeed in the harsh world of cruel men was to imitate them in everything. And this fully applied to clothes. Women of the 80s And this fully applied to clothes. Women of the 80s are beginning to wonder: are trousers on a woman starting to wonder: are trousers on a woman a violation of business etiquette? Many models for business ladies are taken from the stores of men's business fashion. from the storerooms of men's and business fashion. Not only formal suits and shirts Not only formal suits and shirts in the men's style, but also ties or briefcases in the men's style, but also ties or briefcases have taken root in the women's wardrobe. have taken root in women's wardrobes.

And one more thing... In 1983, Jane Fonda released a video course on aerobics, which became a craze. Aerobics clothing, as well as good physical shape, are becoming fashionable. In 1988, Karl Lagerfeld brought leggings to the catwalk at the Paris show of the House of Chanel. In 1983, Jane Fonda released a video course on aerobics, which became a craze. Aerobics clothing, as well as good physical shape, are becoming fashionable. In 1988, Karl Lagerfeld brought leggings to the catwalk at the Paris show of the House of Chanel. The 80s were the heyday of bourgeois chic in fashion. Designer logos become noticeable details of clothing, emphasizing its prestige. The 80s were the peak of Houte couture. Haute Couture shows turn into performances. The wealthiest clients regularly ordered up to 20 models for each season (prices ranged from $ for a casual dress to $ for a wedding dress). The 80s were the heyday of bourgeois chic in fashion. Designer logos become noticeable details of clothing, emphasizing its prestige. The 80s were the peak of Houte couture. Haute Couture shows turn into performances. The wealthiest clients regularly ordered up to 20 models for each season (prices ranged from $ for a casual dress to $ for a wedding dress).

Already closer: the 90s... In the pragmatic 90s, the philosophy of creation In the pragmatic 90s, the philosophy of creating clothes puts the expediency of clothing at the forefront, puts expediency and natural needs at the forefront. And this means that, firstly, we must be that, firstly, we must be protected, secondly, we must be protected, and secondly, we must be comfortable. Personal mythologies and momentary changes in mythology and momentary changes in moods by which fashion lives and moves are recognized as secondary. Modern fashion designers constantly Modern fashion designers constantly emphasize the absence of fashion dictates and the right of every woman to choose. But one cannot help but notice that the 90s are in fashion. Two trends predominate, which can very loosely be called purism and romanticism. can be called purism and romanticism.

Aesthetics of pragmatism. Purism, as a fashion style, denies the use of decorative details. It is characterized by clean lines, the highest quality of fabrics and materials, excellent cut and an ideal level of workmanship. Minimalist models that emphasize the bright individuality of the woman wearing them are typical for young fashion designers. The aesthetics of pragmatism could not be more natural for Americans. New York becomes the third fashion capital after Paris and Milan. Purism, as a fashion style, denies the use of decorative details. It is characterized by clean lines, the highest quality of fabrics and materials, excellent cut and an ideal level of workmanship. Minimalist models that emphasize the bright individuality of the woman wearing them are typical for young fashion designers. The aesthetics of pragmatism could not be more natural for Americans. New York becomes the third fashion capital after Paris and Milan. Minimalism is also characteristic of one of the most successful fashion suppliers, Calvin Klein. The founder of the unisex trend brought the “ordinary girl” Kate Moss to the catwalk and widely promoted the “heroin chic” style. Minimalism is also characteristic of one of the most successful fashion suppliers, Calvin Klein. The founder of the unisex trend brought the “ordinary girl” Kate Moss to the catwalk and widely promoted the “heroin chic” style.

A new wave in the romantic theme. The romantic style in fashion creates a counterbalance to the unisex style. Romanticism in various interpretations is characteristic of the star Versacce, the legendary Armani or the elite Valentino. The Italian duet brought a new wave to the romantic theme. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a creative tandem in 1985, and already in 1988 the Dolce&Gabbana collection brought them international fame. The romantic style in fashion creates a counterbalance to the unisex style. Romanticism in various interpretations is characteristic of the star Versacce, the legendary Armani or the elite Valentino. The Italian duet brought a new wave to the romantic theme. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a creative tandem in 1985, and already in 1988 the Dolce&Gabbana collection brought them international fame.

Young designers. “Young rebels”, “bad English boys” from the fashion of the early 90s become recognized and titled couturiers. John Galliano held his first show in Paris in 1990. And 5 years later, his spring-summer 1995 collection brought the author his third Designer of the Year award (for the first time in fashion history!). It is Galliano who will embody the style of the House of Dior in the next millennium. Alexander McQueen serves as the head designer of Givench. Mohicans of couture such as Kenzo and Isse Miyaki are handing over Great Fashion Houses to young designers. “Young rebels”, “bad English boys” from the fashion of the early 90s become recognized and titled couturiers. John Galliano held his first show in Paris in 1990. And 5 years later, his spring-summer 1995 collection brought the author his third Designer of the Year award (for the first time in fashion history!). It is Galliano who will embody the style of the House of Dior in the next millennium. Alexander McQueen serves as the head designer of Givench. Mohicans of couture such as Kenzo and Isse Miyaki are handing over Great Fashion Houses to young designers.

The thorny path of fashion. In the 20th century, the fashion world went from art to business. The wind of the street, which can be cruel, penetrated the crystal walls of the fairy-tale palace of Haute Couture. On July 15, 1997, Gianni Versace, the king of pret-a-porter, with whom the world fashion of the last quarter of the last century is associated, was killed. In the 20th century, the fashion world went from art to business. The wind of the street, which can be cruel, penetrated the crystal walls of the fairy-tale palace of Haute Couture. On July 15, 1997, Gianni Versace, the king of pret-a-porter, with whom the world fashion of the last quarter of the last century is associated, was killed.

And in conclusion... At the turn of the millennium, fashion designers seem to be looking through the entire history of fashion. We are already accustomed to designers returning to the fashion of past decades. But this time they outdid themselves. The collections of the years “quote” the elegant 60s, the relaxed 70s, the luxurious 80s: the entire 20th century. At the turn of the millennium, fashion designers seem to be looking through the entire history of fashion. We are already accustomed to designers returning to the fashion of past decades. But this time they outdid themselves. The collections of the years “quote” the elegant 60s, the relaxed 70s, the luxurious 80s: the entire 20th century.

Blogger Donna Julietta writes: “Today I was looking through various retro photographs that depicted the history of people’s lives and then I thought that it would be nice to look at photographs that related to fashion, to see how it changed, how interesting fashionistas dressed then. And I decided, why not make a review of fashion by decade. Let me make a reservation right away that I will not give examples of women who were popular at a certain time; it is better to pay special attention to them. Let’s just discuss fashion.”

Let's start with the 10s of the 20th century.

1. Corsets have been holding women back for years, making their figures much more beautiful and graceful, and making life harder. The inability to inhale and exhale once again, constant illnesses due to too tightly tightened “shells” - all this made the corset, although a significant item of the era, very unpleasant.
Therefore, in 1906, women all over the world literally exhaled - a couturier named Paul Poiret first proposed wearing dresses of a simple cut, without corsets. Very soon, such dresses came into fashion - that is why the tenth years are remembered as the years of “liberation” of women from the oppression of one of the most inconvenient items of clothing, and Paul Poiret became a real savior for ladies of high society.

2. In the tens, Russian chic was in fashion - the “Russian Seasons”, which the famous Sergei Diaghilev brought to Paris, were a huge success. Ballet, opera, art, exhibitions - all this was accompanied by a huge number of receptions at which our ladies could adopt the art of haute couture among Parisian women.

3. It was then that all the now familiar attributes of “chic life” in the wardrobe began to come into fashion - women bared their shoulders, began to wear very boudoir-looking toilets, decorating them with a huge number of feather fans, precious jewelry and shiny accessories.

We smoothly move on to the fashion of the 20s

4. During this period, sports and male sports figures entered fashion with confident steps, and female forms gradually began to lose relevance and popularity. The ideal is a thin lady with narrow hips, without the slightest hint of a bust or other roundness. The famous Gabrielle Chanel can be called a fashion reformer and revolutionary of this period. Along with her, fashionable clothes were created in such fashion houses as Nina Ricci, Chanel, Madame Paquin, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet, Jacques Doucet, Jacques Heim, Lucille”, fur fashion house “Jacques Heim” and others.

5. Egyptian motifs began to come into fashion in the 20s. The designers' models were decorative, with an abundance of decorations and embroidery in the zig-zag style. This style was called “Art Deco”, and came from the name of the exhibition of modern decorative and industrial art in Paris in 1925.

6. It was a style of decorating and adorning things. Decorative elements were present on furniture, kitchen utensils, and women's dresses.

7. Shoes trimmed with embroidery or appliqués, decorated to the taste of popular couturiers of that time, came into fashion. "Art Deco" is an eclectic style in which African abstract exoticism is mixed with the geometric forms of cubism; non-traditional inexpensive and simple materials are mixed with expensive traditional materials of good quality.

8. Such a combination of incompatible things, mixed in one style.

9. As a result, the fashion features of the 20s:

The main elements of clothing are, of course, dresses, straight-cut suits;
- pleating is in fashion;
- a fashionable straight-cut coat tapering towards the bottom and with a fur collar;
- pajama trousers and pajamas are in fashion, which were worn to the beach at that time;
- the first swimsuits for women appeared - a revolution in beach fashion;
- clothes were made from more affordable fabrics and knitwear became a discovery;
- sporty style is in fashion, not only trousers, but also shorts are appearing;
- the appearance of the classic Chanel little black dress;

30s fashion

10. In these times, the cutting of clothes has become more complex. The quality of mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing has improved markedly. Hollywood is a trendsetter in the USA. But even here, companies began to appear that traded using catalogs sent by mail. These companies distributed new fashion models in millions of copies.

11. Long skirts became the standard of fashion during the crisis times of the thirties. In 1929, Jean Patou was the first to offer long dresses and skirts, the waistline of which was in place. After this innovation, all fashion houses lengthened their models in two stages. At first, the length of dresses and skirts reached mid-calf, and a little later dropped almost to the ankle. Ladies who follow fashion trends independently lengthened their clothes. They sewed on wedges and various frills.

12. A very popular piece of clothing in the 1930s was the women's street suit, which came in a wide variety of variations. Outerwear - coats and jackets - were distinguished by their extraordinary elegance and variety of styles.

13. Each type of clothing, including a suit, was characterized by a wide variety of shaped lines and finishes. The cut of suits became more complex and began to rely on geometry, giving the silhouette clarity.

14. Decorative details and decorations were widely used in the costume. A hat, handbag, gloves and shoes - that's what should have been in the same color scheme. Accessories were selected very strictly. As a rule, they were black or brown, and in summer they were white.

15. Accessories selected in this way easily matched any dress or suit, which was relevant during the crisis. In the fashion of the 30s, accessories played a huge role. After all, most women of those years could not afford anything else except a hat or a handbag.

40s fashion

16. The dominant fashion trend of the early 40s was multi-layered long skirts, huge bows on clothes, sometimes with the addition of vertical stripes, and puffed sleeves. It is worth noting that at that time, striped clothing was the most popular. As war broke out and the world became militarized, fashion in the 1940s underwent significant changes. Women no longer have time to think about makeup and replenishing their wardrobe.

17. During this period, the appearance of outfits was significantly simplified to minimalism in everything. Natural fabrics are no longer used for civilian purposes. Clothes for women began to be produced and sewn from acetate silk and viscose.

18. Floral designs are coming back into fashion: ornaments and small flowers have become the main decoration of fabrics and dresses made from this material. It became impossible to sew blouses and shirts from white fabric, so cuffs and collars began to be introduced into fashion. The military style, which is still popular today, became a discovery of the war period.

19. At the same time, a new shoe model was released: shoes with stiletto heels.

20. Also new was the production of turtleneck blouses; these models with a high turtleneck deservedly received recognition from the fashionistas of those times.

50s fashion

22. In the post-war years, social differences became noticeably worse. Wives again turned into a symbol of the well-being of their spouses, as a kind of showcase for others. A mandatory ritual for every woman is visiting a hair salon and applying makeup. The ideal woman, even if she did not work anywhere and was a housewife, had to be fully prepared already early in the morning: with a perfect hairstyle, in heels and makeup, stand at the stove or vacuum the carpet.

23. Even in the Soviet Union, where the lifestyle was significantly different from the Western one, it was customary to have your hair styled at a hairdresser or permed at least once a week, which also began to become fashionable with particular rapidity.

24. 50s style contrasted the hourglass silhouette with the crisp, shoulder-flared silhouette that was popular during the war years. Thus, there were special requirements for the figure: sloping shoulders, thin waist, rounded feminine hips and lush breasts.

25. To meet these standards, women wore constriction corsets, placed fabric or cotton wool in their bras, and tightened their bellies. The images of beauty of those times were: Elizabeth Taylor, Lyubov Orlova, Sophia Loren, Klara Luchko, Marilyn Monroe.

26. Among the young population, the standards were Lyudmila Gurchenko and others. A fashionable and stylish woman of the 50s style resembled a flower in silhouette: a fluffy floor-length skirt, under which they wore a multi-layered petticoat, high stiletto heels, nylon stockings with a seam. Stockings were a must-have accessory to complete the look and were extremely expensive. But women went to great lengths to look attractive and feel like beauties who follow fashion trends. It was difficult to buy fabrics at that time; no more than a certain amount of them was sold per person, approved by the norms of those times. To sew one skirt to fit the “new silhouette”, it took from nine to forty meters of material!

60s fashion

The legendary 60s are the brightest decade in the history of world fashion, free and expressive, a period of solemn procession of the so-called youth fashion. The new style needed new hairstyles. And again London was ahead of Paris in terms of innovative ideas. In 1959, the French film “Babette Goes to War” with Brigitte Bardot in the title role was released. A casually tousled hairstyle with a backcomb, despite the fact that it takes fashionistas a lot of time to create it, is becoming super popular.

27. Accessories became very popular: necklaces made of large beads, voluminous jewelry, “macro” glasses that covered half of the face.

28. The most scandalous clothing of the sixties was born in London - the miniskirt, a symbol of emancipation and the sexual revolution. In 1962, the legendary Mary Quant showed her first collection of mini-length items. The new style, called “London style,” very quickly conquered young people around the world.

29. The 60s - the era of synthetics and everything artificial. Synthetic fabrics are widespread in mass fashion - they are considered the most comfortable and practical, as they do not wrinkle and are easy to wash, in addition, they are cheap.

30. The fashion of that time favored unnaturalness - false eyelashes, wigs, hairpieces, costume jewelry. High women's boots with low heels, with a narrow or wide rounded toe made of leather or synthetic material, called go-go, are becoming super popular. Boots became widespread with the emergence of fashion for mini lengths and the dance style of the same name.

Fashion of the late 1960s was influenced by the hippie movement. Young people opposed social and class differences, racial discrimination and war. With their appearance, hippies emphasized their rejection of the norms of official culture. Their clothes are deliberately casual and even sloppy - ripped jeans, beaded bracelets, fabric bucket bags slung over their shoulders. The sexlessness of the appearance is emphasized, long hair symbolizes freedom.

70s fashion

31. In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, it can be said that it was in those years that people had more means to express themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction; everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

32. The motto of the 70s was the expression “Anything is possible!” The couturiers presented several styles for progressive and active young people to choose from, none of which could be called dominant. The most fashionable element of the wardrobe was jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

33. Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time were A-line skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, A-line dresses, shirt dresses.

34. In addition, it should be noted that clothes have become more comfortable and practical. The concept of a basic wardrobe has emerged, consisting of the required number of things that can be combined with each other. As for shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.

35. Among the designers in the 70s, Sonia Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonia Rykiel created convenient, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses made of woolen knitwear and mohair.

80s fashion

36. The fashion of the 80s intertwined retro images, rethought by designers, as well as those born of youth subcultures, music and dance trends, and the ongoing boom in sports.

37. Hip-hop, gothic, post-punk, rave, house, techno, breakdancing, snowboarding, skateboarding, rollerblading, step aerobics - all these phenomena affected the style of the decade.

38. The list of iconic items of the decade of stylistic revelry is impressive - padded shoulders, banana trousers, military and safari style clothing, kimono, batman and raglan sleeves, leggings with bright patterns, black fishnet tights, worn denim, so-called Varenka, black leather jackets, lurex, massive jewelry, jewelry buttons on jackets, voluminous hairstyles or styling with the effect of “wet hair”, cascading haircuts, spiral perm, hair of decorative colors, such as “eggplant”, feather highlighting. A lot of cosmetics were used in deliberate shades with sparkles and mother-of-pearl.

The massiveness of the 1980s can be described as excess. Everything is, as it were, “too” - too narrow, too voluminous, too flashy, too bright. In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decorative elements enjoyed success: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

90s fashion

39. The 90s style in clothing, which has become universal, is better called not a style, but a new approach to choosing clothes. Because in the fashion of the 90s, the very principle of creating your image changes, as well as the principle used in creating a costume. The main call of the nineties is “be who you are!” In those days, denim clothes were given special importance - only the lazy did not wear them. Avid fashionistas managed to wear jeans with denim shirts, bags and boots. So the style of the 90s can be safely called “denim”, since every person had more than one copy of a similar thing.

40. In the nineties, unisex fashion spread throughout the world: jeans with a T-shirt or loose-fitting trousers with a sweater, complemented by comfortable shoes.

41. The nineties were the time of sneakers and flats. This unisex style is very popular with large Italian and American companies, such as Banana Republic, Benetton, Marko Polo. Costumes strive for simplicity and functionality, which, however, revives the traditions of partner art, when, along with strict asceticism, the costume contains deliberate theatricality with a bright range of colors. Fashion changes depending on social orientation and territoriality, so in Europe bohemians prefer conceptual designer clothes.

42. The main fashion emphasis of the nineties is not on clothes, but on its owner. A fashionable look is created by a slender figure with tanned or milky-white skin. Body culture is flourishing as in the times of Ancient Greece. Fashionistas and fashionistas not only visit sports clubs, which appeared thanks to them, but also actively visit beauty parlors and even use the services of plastic surgery. Supermodels from fashion catwalks are becoming role models; television and fashion magazines have made a significant contribution to this.

43. Well then. This concludes the review. I would like to say that of all times, my preferences are closer to the 30s, 50s and 70s. In general, everything new is long forgotten old.