All tailors want to sew a product quickly and efficiently. But it often happens that when working on a sewing machine, one part is stretched relative to another or, conversely, assembled. Or when trying on ready-made clothes, it turns out that the product does not fit the figure. Therefore, before you start laying on a machine, you need to secure the parts or some assembly in front (valve or side corner) manually. Many people neglect manual work due to laziness or speed, however, do not forget about the saying “The slower you go, the further you will go”! The more painstaking the manual work, the easier, faster and better quality a particular unit will be processed.

Types of hand stitches.

There are 7 types of hand stitches in total:

When making hand stitches, you need to make sure that they are even and uniform, and the threads need to be tightened evenly.

Straight stitches

Straight ones are the simplest and very easy to bloom. They are used only temporarily and are removed during further processing. The following lines are made from straight stitches.

Basting stitch

We fold the two parts with their right sides inward, aligning the cuts or control lines, and lay straight stitches 7-15 mm long - with a slight slack in one of the parts, and 15-25 - without slack.

Such stitches are used to connect side, shoulder sections, etc.

Basting stitch

We place one part on top of another and connect them with straight stitches 7-25 mm long - with a fit, and 25-50 mm without a fit.

It is used when you need to connect two parts, placing one on top of the other, as well as to connect small parts with large ones, for example, when you need patch pockets, borders on a shelf, etc.

Note stitch

We bend the cut of the part along the intended line and lay a line of straight stitches 10-30 mm long.

Used to temporarily secure a folded section of a part (sweep the bottom of the product, the bottom of the sleeves, etc.).

Basting stitch

It is used to temporarily secure the facing edge of a part when making products from thin materials and materials with stripes and checkered patterns (flap, collar, bead, etc.). Stitch length – 7-10 mm. The stitch is laid from the side of the part to which I pass the seam, that is, they form an edging.

The edge is the distance from the edge to the seam.

Copy line

Used to transfer lines from one part to another. Two identical parts are folded with their right sides inward, aligning all the cuts, and a line of straight, loose stitches is laid along the marked lines, while forming loops 2-3 mm high, depending on the thickness of the fabric. Then we move the parts apart, stretching the stitches, and cut the threads of the stitches between the parts. Stitch length 10-15 mm.

Gather stitch

To form gathers, lay two parallel lines 3-7 mm long with a distance from the cut of the part to the first line of 3-5 mm, between lines 1-4 mm. We tighten the cut of the part with thread to the desired size. We distribute the resulting assemblies evenly along the entire length.

Oblique stitches

They form a more durable and elastic connection of materials than straight ones. Oblique stitches are used to make lines for both temporary and permanent purposes.

• Temporary bias stitches include:

Basting stitch

Replaces basting stitch with straight stitches when it is necessary to obtain a more stable connection of parts, since oblique stitches do not allow one part to move relative to another. For example, with parts with a fit - collars on the front, top collar on the bottom, etc. Stitch length 7-20 mm.

Basting stitch

Replaces the basting stitch with straight stitches on all fabrics except thin dress fabrics and striped suit fabrics. Slant stitches can distort the design by pulling it across the stitches. For example: the edges of flaps, hems, etc. Basting is done from the side of the part to which the seam is passed, forming an edging. Stitch length 7-10 mm.

• Permanent bias stitches include:

Overcast stitch

We protect the cut parts from falling off. (bottom cut of the product, sleeves, etc.) Stitch length 5-7 mm. Width 3-5 mm. Stitch frequency 3-4 per 1 cm.

Quilt stitch

It is used for fastening the main and interlining fabrics to increase the elasticity of the part (lapel, jacket collar). To perform it, the upper fabric, the cushioning one, is pierced through, and the lower one, the main one, is half-thick. As a result, the stitching thread on the front side is not visible. Stitch length 5-7 mm, width 3-5 mm. The distance between lines is 5-7 mm.

Hemming stitch

Used for permanently securing the folded edge of a part with an open raw cut in thick fabrics, as well as for edging the inner edges of hems, etc. The width of the seam with an open cut is 2-3 mm, with a closed cut - 1 mm. The stitch length for a seam with an open cut is 3-5 mm, for hemming an edge 5-7 mm, for attaching the inner edges of a part 4-10 mm.

Stitches for discreet fastening of parts

There are two types:

A) Stitching stitch - for inconspicuously connecting parts of a product made of dense, non-fraying fabrics where they were accidentally cut or torn. The parts are placed end-to-end, matching the pattern. At a distance of 2-3 mm from the cut, the needle pierces the tissue to half its thickness and is then inserted into the cut. The cut should be tightly connected with stitches. Nothing should be visible from the front side. Stitch length 1-2 mm, frequency 5-7 stitches per 1 cm.

B) Cover stitch - needed to make the seam made on a sewing machine inconspicuous.

Cross stitches

Used for hemming the bottom of products. A special feature of such stitches is the absence of threads on the front side of the product. The hem can be done openly along the edge or hidden - inside the hem allowance. You can also make finishing stitches using cross stitches. The length and width of the stitches are 5-7 mm.

Loop stitches

Used for hand loops, and also when decorative design any details, napkins, blankets. Make a loop stitch. The stitch size is determined by the designer. When sewing buttonholes, the frequency of stitches is 6-10 for every 10 mm, the width is 2-3 mm.

Loop stitches

Stitches provide the most durable and elastic bonding of materials, and are used only for permanent stitches.

Loop stitches make the following stitches:

Fur stitch

They are used when finishing the edges of jacket parts (sides, collar, hem, etc.). When performing them, the threads of the stitches are placed inside the fastening of the fabrics and the stitching is hardly noticeable from the top and bottom sides. Stitch length 3-4 mm.

Marking line

Needed to connect several layers of fabric, if necessary, create a strong but elastic bond.

The needle pierces through all layers of fabric. Having made a stitch, step back 0.5 stitches from the execution side. On the front side it imitates a running stitch. Stitch length is 1.5-2 cm. Used when marking armholes, sewing shoulder pads, etc.

Hemming (hidden) stitch

It is this line that is used when they say “luxury treatment”. It is called “secret” for a reason; it is not visible either from the back or from the front side.

The needle is first inserted into the fold of the folded edge, and then, at the level of the fold puncture, we make a puncture along the edge of the folded allowance to half the thickness of the fabric. The stitch frequency is 3-4 per 1 cm. Used when you need to line the armhole of a sleeve or the bottom of a product, etc.

Stitch stitch

In other words, it is also called “back needle”. It imitates machine stitching, and on one side it is no different from it. Has a permanent purpose.

The needle pierces through all layers of fabric, after making a stitch, it returns back to the previous puncture. The next puncture is made from the opposite side of the execution at a distance equal to two stitches and again returns to the previous puncture. Stitch length 3-5 mm.

Special stitches

Used when you need to make loop fastenings, buttons, hooks or buttons.

Hand and machine seams

The completed cycle of weaving threads is called a stitch. Stitch length is the distance between two needle punctures. A series of uniform stitches repeated on fabric is called a stitch. Depending on their purpose and execution, seams can be machine-made or hand-made.

Hand stitches

To perform hand stitches, it is recommended to use sets of only high-quality needles from well-known manufacturers. It is advisable to purchase needles that have a special coating in the eye area (the so-called “golden” eye), which ensures easy sliding through the fabric, high smoothness of the eye and easy threading (Photo 1-1).

Hand sewing needles are numbered from 1 to 12. The needle number indicates the largest diameter of the needle in millimeters, multiplied by 10. For example, a number 7 needle has a largest diameter of 0.7 mm. Do not use dull, rusty or bent hand needles. The thickness of the needle should match the thickness of the threads used. The thicker the needle, the greater the force required to move it through the fabric, so using a thick needle for hand sewing thin thread not justified. You cannot use embroidery needles with a blunt tip for hand sewing work; they are intended for cross-stitching on canvas. To perform hand stitches, you must use a thimble. Using a thimble will protect your fingers and nails, and will also speed up sewing, as it will allow the seamstress to press the needle confidently and with greater speed.

1. Connecting hand stitches

1.1.a. Basting stitch “forward needle”

It is used for basting, that is, for temporarily connecting parts before stitching on a machine, as well as for marking center lines on parts, for forming assemblies, etc. The seam is made from right to left. The length of the stitches and the distance between the stitches should be the same along the entire length of the seam, which, during subsequent stitching on the machine, ensures uniform movement of the fabric under the foot. The stitch length in products made from thin fabrics is 0.2÷0.5 cm, from thick fabrics from 1.0 to 1.5 cm (Fig. 1-1-1 and Photo 1-1-1a). For basting, thin threads are used that tear easily.

Photo 1-1-1a

1.1.b. Imitation of machine seam

The “forward needle” seam can be used as an imitation of a machine seam. Most often this seam is used when replacing a zipper with leather goods. The seam is performed in two passes:
- sew a “forward needle” seam from right to left along the front side,
- turn the right side of the fabric over from left to right,
- in the second pass, sew a “forward needle” seam from right to left, filling in the missing stitches from the front side.

The needle punctures of the first and second passes should coincide (Photo 1-1-1b).

Photo 1-1-1b

1.2. Stitched seam with a stitch or “by the needle”

The seam “by the needle” is used:
- where for some reason it is difficult to machine stitch or a special seam strength is needed,
- when sewing parts in products made of slippery and linty fabrics (thin natural silk, velvet, panvelvet).

The seam has great strength and stretchability. Making a seam (Fig. 1-1-2a and Photo 1-1-2):
- for the first stitch, make a puncture with a needle from the bottom up.
- bring the needle over the fabric and stitch back beyond the first puncture by 0.2 cm.
- puncture the fabric from top to bottom, bring the needle to the wrong side.
- from the wrong side, move the needle under the fabric to twice the stitch length, that is, 0.4 cm.
- puncture the fabric from the bottom up and pull the needle up.
- for the second stitch, move the needle back along the front side by 0.2 cm, then make a new puncture from top to bottom close to the first stitch, etc.

Place the stitches exactly along the intended line. Maintain the stitch length exactly throughout the entire seam.

2. Edge hand stitches

Edge seams include all overlock seams that are used to protect cuts from fraying, as well as seams for decorative finishing products.

2.1. Overcast seam

The stitch height is from 0.2 to 0.5 cm, depending on the fraying of the fabric and should be the same along the entire length of the seam. The stitch frequency is 2÷3 per 1.0 cm of seam length (Fig. 1-2-1 and Photo 1-2-1).

2.2. Twist seam

Used as a finishing seam for decorating cuts, frills, and molds. The seam is used when making haute couture products. In the studio, this seam is replaced with a rolled seam. In mass production, this seam is made by machine using special equipment. The seam is performed only on very thin fabrics (thin silk, chiffon, cambric, etc.) with thin threads (No. 120÷150) and thin needles (No. 3 or 4). Making a seam (Photo 1-2-2):
1. The main thing is to be able to thinly and tightly twist the fabric into a roller (Photo 1-2-2A), with your left hand tightly twist the fabric into the roller (for left-handers, vice versa), right hand hold the roller
2. Pull the roller tightly onto the index finger of your left hand, holding it with the thumb and middle finger of your left hand (Photo 1-2-2B). Due to the fact that you have to pinch the edge of the roller with your fingers, the seam cannot begin from the beginning of the twist (Photo 1-2-2B).
3. A thin needle prepared in advance with thin thread with your right hand, wrap the roller with tight stitches adjacent to each other, pierce the fabric with a needle “toward yourself” (Photo 1-2-2B).
4. The thickness of the roller wrapped with thread is no more than 0.1 cm (Photo 1-2-2B).

2.3. Loop stitch

2.3.a. Loop stitch for overcasting fabric sections

It is applied for manual processing tissue sections. The height of the stitches and the distance between them should be equal to 0.5 cm and should be the same along the entire length of the seam. The seam is made from left to right (Fig. 1-2-3).

Photo 1-2-3a

2.3.b. Buttonhole stitch for making buttonholes

It is used for making loops by hand, as well as for making appliqués. When sewing buttonholes, the stitches should be laid close to each other. The height of the stitches should be the same along the entire length of the seam, ranging from 0.2 to 0.3 cm (Photo 1-2-3b). To make a loop, you need to cut a thread of such length that it is enough to process the entire loop or at least one side loops.

Photo 1-2-3b

Making a buttonhole seam:
Beginning of the buttonhole seam (Photo 1-2-4, 1-2-5, 1-2-6):
- make the first loop, pull the beginning of the thread into this loop, tighten the loop,
- place the beginning of the thread on the edge of the fabric section being processed,

Sew a few loop stitches
- start cutting the thread, pulling it slightly.

Continuation of the buttonhole stitch if the thread has run out (Photo 1-2-7):
- leave the end of the finished thread,
- stitch the next stitch with new thread without tightening the noose,
- thread the end of the previous thread and the beginning of a new one into this loop, tighten the loop,
- place the ends of the threads on the edge of the fabric section being processed,
- perform several stitches,
- slightly tighten the ends of the threads and trim them.

Completing the buttonhole seam (Photos 1-2-8 and 1-2-9):
- perform the last stitch twice in one place,
- turn the fabric to the wrong side,
- bring the needle under the last few stitches, - tighten the thread, cut it.

3. Hemming hand stitches

3.1. Blind seam

It is used when hemming the bottom of a product made of high-quality fabric, wool or silk. Not used on cotton. 3 stitches are sewn per 1.0 cm of seam. The seam is made with silk threads to match the fabric. Do not tighten the thread when making a seam. On the front and back sides of the product, the thread matched to the fabric should not be visible (Fig. 1-3-1, Photo 1-3-1a and Photo 1-3-1b).

Photo 1-3-1a

Making a seam:
- bend the edge of the fabric 0.5÷0.7 cm to the wrong side equally along the entire length of the seam, baste, iron,
- from the resulting fold along the front side, measure the width of the hem 3.0÷6.0 cm equally along the entire length of the seam,
- bend the width of the hem to the wrong side, baste, iron,
- bend the folded edge of the fabric so that you get a “side” of 0.2 cm,
- make a puncture through the product, grabbing 1÷2 threads of fabric, and with the same movement pass the needle inside the folded edge ,
- the distance between punctures on the side of the product should be 0.5 cm (Photo 1-3-1b).

Photo 1-3-1b

3.2. Goat stitch

The seam is used to hem the bottom of the product if the fabric cut is open, that is, the edge (cut) of the hem is not folded inward. It is used in products made of dense and non-flowing fabrics. The seam is made from left to right. The seam stitches should extend beyond the edge of the hem by 0.1 cm for thin fabrics and up to 0.3 cm for thick fabrics. The stitch height for thin fabrics should be no more than 0.5 cm, for thick fabrics (coat) - no more than 0.7 cm. Making a seam in Fig. 1-3-2 and Photo 1-3-2):
- bend the edge of the fabric to the wrong side to a hem width of 3.0÷6.0 cm equally along the entire length of the seam, baste, iron.
- insert the needle under the hem, make the first puncture in the hem,
- pass the thread forward and the needle from right to left above the hem cut, grabbing one thread from the fabric of the product,
- pass the thread forward and the needle from right to left, grabbing 2 threads from the hem fabric, without piercing the fabric of the product, etc.

Fig.1-3-2 Photo 1-3-2

3.3. Blind goat seam

A blind goat seam is used when hemming the bottom of items made of woolen and mixed fabrics, when the hem section is processed with an edge seam (Photo 1-3-3).

Making a seam (Photo 1-3-4):
- the seam is made from left to right,
- the needle always goes from right to left, and the thread from left to right, forming cross stitches,
- the thread is not tightened, the seam should be suspended.

4. Copy manual snare stitch

Used for copying double parts (sleeves, pockets, etc.). The seam is made with floss thread. For this seam, pull out only one of the six strands of floss. You cannot lay snares with bobbin threads, as they will spill out of the fabric. The stitch length is 0.3÷0.5 cm, the smaller and more frequent the stitches, the less they fall out. Place the seam forward with the needle, leaving a loop on top. After making a seam along the contour of the part, move the layers of fabric apart and cut the stitches closer to the part on which the contour is drawn (Fig. 1-4 and Photo 1-4).

Copyright © Lyudmila Petrovna Serova
Last modified: 02/15/2019

Seams made by machine

They are also, in turn, divided into several subcategories. Depending on the purpose, there are the following machine seams:

• connecting - as the main types of connections are used directly to assemble parts into a single product. This category includes stitching, sewing, overlay, adjustment, double seams and butt joints;
• edge - this group is performed in the process of processing the lower and side cuts of parts. Here the hem and edging seams are distinguished;
• decorative - used for artistic design of a product.

Various options available a large number of, we will look at the main machine seams that are most widely used.

Stitch seam

This is the simplest type, it is performed in the following sequence:

1. The parts must be connected by aligning the front side of the fabric, fastened with pins or basting along a line that was previously marked with chalk. Typically, the starting width of the seam should be limited to 5-20 mm.
2. We perform a straight stitch along the connection line with the obligatory fastening of the thread at the beginning and end of the seam. This is ensured by running a 1 cm long stitch in opposite directions.
3. The sections of the assembled parts must be swept. This can be done in two ways, which depend on the further application of the seam. The first method is ironing, when two sections are overcast separately and ironed in the same order. The second option is called ironing. With this method, the edges are finished with an overlock stitch or an overlock stitch together.
4. After processing the sections, remove the basting thread and heat treat the seam with an iron. Depending on how the basting was done, we iron the sections separately or together.

Overlay seam

It can be performed using two technologies, when the cut is open or closed.

• Open cut. This type of seam can also be obtained in two ways. In the first one, one part is combined with another not by cuts, but by smell, which should be 15-20 mm. Next, the stitching is done on the machine parallel to the edge. Another technique involves placing a part with a curved and ironed edge on top of a second one, and the cuts are aligned. The stitching should be parallel to the folded edge. At the end of the seam using this method, a folded joint is obtained on the front side, and two unprocessed cuts on the back side.
• Closed cut. We join the two parts with the front side, retreating the edges at a distance of 5-10 mm. We lay the first line along the wrong side, and the distance from the edge should not exceed 5 mm. We bend the part along the completed line to the front side. The fold must be made in such a way that the cut overlaps the top stitching. Then we make a second seam with an indent parallel to the edge.

Making a backstitch

This type has found its application in the process of creating bed linen. The sewing seam is performed using the following technology:

1. We combine two parts facing each other. In this case, the lower cut should protrude by the size of the finished seam, the size of the protrusion should be within 8-9 mm.
2. We make a bend, using the edge of the lower part to grab the cut edge from the upper part.
3. We make the first line; it should be located at a distance of 1-2 mm from the folded edge.
4. To get a closed seam, unfold the parts and lay them out on the front side.
5. By turning the connected part, we close the smaller cut and perform the second line, departing from the edge no more than 2 mm.

Double or French seam

It is performed as a continuation of the stitch seam in the following order:

1. In order to make a double seam, it is necessary to lay out the parts not on the front side, but on the wrong side, both cuts must be aligned in one line.
2. We sew the edges along the front side with an indentation of 3-4 mm.
3. We smooth the cuts.
4. We turn the parts inside out, matching the right sides.
5. We perform the second line, it should be located at a distance of approximately 5-7 mm from the resulting fold, and the internal sections should be completely covered by the top seam.
6. Iron the double seam.

Adjustment stitch

The layout of the parts in this case is carried out with the front sides inward, and the sections should be connected in one line.

• We make a regular stitch seam parallel to the cut line.
• After joining, the upper part is bent and ironed.
• Now you need to sew a line that will run along the front side. It will connect three layers of material at the same time - the bottom piece and both seam allowances. If the material is thick enough, then you can shift the bottom edge by half a centimeter. This technique will lead to the fact that when stitching, the middle layer of material will overlap and end up inside.
• Basically, an adjustment seam is used to join lightweight materials that allow you to bend and iron seam allowances, thereby preventing the fabric from fraying.

Hem

This type of connection is used to decorate the lower edges of products. It can be done in three ways:

• With a closed cut. To do this, you need to fold the bottom to the wrong side twice. The first bend is made with a size of 5 mm. The second turn depends on the type of fabric and can vary from 5 to 10 mm. The stitching is laid along the edge of the fold.
• With an open cut. To obtain such a seam, the overlap is folded to the wrong side and a stitch is made with an indentation of 2 mm from the edge of the resulting fold. To perform this stitch, you can use either a straight or zigzag shape.
• Narrow seam. To perform it, a fold of 3 mm is made on the wrong side, which is basted and stitched with an indentation of 1.5-2 mm from the fold. Excess fabric is cut off almost at the very edge. If we are talking about a fabric such as knitwear, then the process can be stopped at this point. This knitted seam is made on special machines; on the front side it will have the shape of a regular stitch, and on the back side it will look like an overlock stitch. For regular fabric, a second fold is made at a distance of 2-3 mm and another stitch is applied.

Edge stitch

To perform it, you will need special strips called facings. They are usually placed in the direction of the thread of the main parts. The shape of the sewn facing should be the same on both the front and back sides.

Edge sewing seams can have different designs:

• With a closed cut. The seam can be made in two different ways:

We fold the part and the facing tape facing each other and align the cuts. Then basting is done. The seam is made and the basting is removed. The allowances are ironed and cut to size 3-5 mm. The cut edges are turned around with a facing, the edge is folded and stitched.

For the second option, the facing tape is folded in half with the wrong side inward. Then it is applied to the front side of the part with the cuts aligned and stitched. The sections of the parts are wrapped in a strip, and the stitching is applied almost along the very fold of the facing.

• With an open cut. This treatment is performed with the first version of the closed cut edge stitch. Only in this case, the edge with which the cuts are wrapped is not tucked.

Hand stitches

In most cases, you can make seams by machine, but doing it by hand is also important. There are connections that can only be made manually, for example, a running or copy seam. All connections of this kind can be divided into four categories according to technology. So, let’s find out what types of hand stitches exist:

• Seam by needle. Using this technology, a line or stitch stitch, as well as a marking seam, is sewn.
• Forward with a needle. This includes the implementation of such types as spacer, copying, and running connections.
• Hem. This method makes a hidden or hemmed connection.
• Regional. This category includes overcast and buttonhole seams.

Let's look at the most common types of hand sewing.

Interlining seam

It is performed using a simple “needle forward” technology, which is ordinary stitches. The needle is inserted at a distance of 2-4 threads and carried forward until the end of the seam. The sewing direction is from right to left, and there should be even thread tension. Spacer seams are used on the fabric when assembling product parts. They also indicate the middle of the parts.

Running stitch

At its core, this is a temporary connection that is removed after the main machine seam is completed. For such work, it is advisable to choose thin threads so that after their removal there are no holes left in the fabric. An elastic thread is ideal for this work. The length of the basting can vary between 7-25 cm, it depends on the parts being assembled. The stitch size should not exceed 10 mm. This value depends on the thickness of the material being stitched.

Copy seam

The purpose of these seams is to symmetrically transfer the required dimensions and lines to paired parts. Marking lines and contour marks are marked with a copy seam. This seam is otherwise called a snare. It is a type of gasket joint. The direction of the thread when laying is from right to left. The seam is made with a double thread, which should be soft, and its length should not exceed 90 cm. As for the stitches, their size should not exceed 5 mm, the same requirement applies to the distance between them. The thread should not be tightened, but remain in the form of a loop up to 15 mm. After completing the work, it is necessary to move the parts apart and cut the threads between them, for this purpose the loops were left. As a result, symmetrical markings are obtained on both parts, and the patterns will have the same appearance.

Stitching and marking seams

This hand stitching is similar in shape to a regular machine stitch. Work begins using the same technology as the running stitch. After completing the first stitch, the needle pierces the fabric and the thread is brought out to the right side, as for the next step. But now the sewing direction changes in the opposite direction, that is, backwards, and the needle is inserted into the hole created by the end of the first stitch. On the right side of the fabric, the seam should look like a regular seam-stitch; to do this, you need to run it along one line, keeping the stitches the same size. On the reverse side, the stitches partially overlap. If you don't have a sewing machine, you can make these stitches by hand. They will become indispensable in repairing any item that has a machine seam torn.

The marking seam is created using the same technology, the only difference is that the stitches are made at a distance, not close to each other. This size should be half a stitch.

Hemming seams

They are used to process the bottom edge of the product. For such work it is necessary to first prepare the edge. For this:

• the entire allowance is folded in and basted at a distance of 5-10 mm from the resulting fold;
• the cut is folded a second time at the same distance and a second basting is performed with an indentation of 2-3 mm;
• the resulting lapel is ironed.

Now you can proceed directly to making the hemming seam. The edge of the fold is pierced with a needle and the thread is pulled through, now several threads of the main fabric are captured. Then the fold is pierced again, then the process is repeated until the end of the seam. Typically, such stitches are applied at a slight angle; there should be 3 stitches per 1 cm of seam.

Blind hem stitch

In the connection discussed above, the connection stitches are laid over the fold, as a result they will be visible from the inside. If you perform the hemming operation using a different technology, you will get a hidden seam.

The preparation of the tucked layer occurs in the same sequence as with a regular hemming seam. Then the order of execution changes:

• the folded hem allowance is turned to the right side, leaving a section of up to 3 mm;
• the thread is secured in the folded allowance;
• the needle is inserted under the fold of the edge, which is hemmed (you need to grab about two or three threads of the main fabric);
• The direction of work is from right to left, and the thread should not be too tight. The number of stitches that a blind seam will contain per 1 cm should be two or three pieces.

Overlock seams

This treatment is performed in order to prevent fraying and fraying of the edges of the product. Types of seams of this type there are the following:

• An oblique overlock stitch is made by grasping the edge, and the needle movement should be from bottom to top. The direction of work is from right to left, while the stitch density should be the same as for hemming seams.
• Another type is the cross stitch. At first, the work is carried out in one direction, as with an oblique stitch; having reached the end of the seam, the direction changes in the strictly opposite direction, and the stitches are placed crosswise over the already stitched ones. In this case, the work does not rotate, but remains in the same position. Edge processing can be done using loops.

Loop seams

Basically, this type of edge processing is used if the fabric has increased flowability. It can also be used to decorate the edges of fabric appliqués. A buttonhole stitch is very similar in appearance to a machine overlock stitch. The sequence of its execution is as follows:

1. We fasten the thread to the edge of the cut; the fastening should be quite reliable.
2. We pierce the fabric in the right place with a needle away from us.
3. Without removing the needle from the fabric, we pass the thread through the loop and pull it out of the fabric.
4. We tighten the resulting loop, the upper part should lie on the cut, thereby protecting it from falling apart.
5. We perform the second stitch, the distance from the puncture site to the edge should be within 4-6 mm, and no more than 3 stitches should be placed per 1 cm of fabric. You can wrap the thread around the needle when it is in the fabric. Or you need to stretch it to the thread.

In this sequence, a loop stitch is made to the end of the cut. The direction of work is from left to right. This type of seam is often used for knitted fabrics. It is better to use an elastic thread in your work. How to make a beautiful and even knitted seam? The answer is simple: try to maintain the same size of punctures.

Types of stitches for embroidery

They can be classified in a separate category, because although they are manual, some are performed using a different technology. For embroidery, the interfacing, buttonhole and line stitches discussed above are used. There are other types:

• stalked;
• tambour;
• herringbone;
• goat.

All of them belong to the simplest contour seams and serve as an auxiliary element. More complex embroidery stitches are two separate directions, in the process of which some auxiliary elements are used.

Stem stitch embroidery

Use a seam like this separate element for decoration of plant ornaments, flowers, buds, stems, leaves. The stem stitch is also used for edging finished embroidery parts as a finishing element. Very often, capital letters are embroidered using this technique.

This seam is made as follows:

• The thread is secured from the left edge and brought to the front side.
• Step 3 mm and stick the needle in to form the first stitch. When embroidering, the movement is from left to right. To obtain the correct seam, the needle point should be directed to the left.
• The needle is brought out in the middle of the future stitch. Make sure that the needle does not split the thread in the loop.
• Pull the thread to align the stitch.
• Using the same technology, we perform the next step, and so on until the end of the seam length.

If the drawing requires a curved line, we tilt the stitches so that the direction falls on the outer line. When filling a certain contour, the stem seam must be started from the same side.

Chain stitch

It consists of a continuous series of loops that come out of one another and line up. The thread is fixed to the canvas, and the work begins on the front side. The thread is placed in the loop from left to right. The needle pierces the fabric in the place from which the thread came out after fastening, and is withdrawn at the distance that should be the size of the loop. The needle comes out in the middle of the laid loop, and the thread should be under the needle. This embroidery element is used in complex patterns to form stripes or to sew outlines.

Cross stitch

Embroidery stitches of this type are very popular. With their help, you can create entire masterpieces in the form of paintings. For such embroidery, a special material is used - canvas; it has a pronounced cellular structure, which ensures equally even crosses. Let's consider the process of creating this seam:

1. Fasten the thread and perform an oblique stitch from bottom to top.
2. We pierce the fabric from the wrong side at the level of the lower end of the first stitch and bring the thread to the front side, the direction is from left to right.
3. We perform the next oblique stitch and repeat this sequence until the required number of crosses. As a result, the first half of the pattern is completed.
4. On the last cross we fasten the thread in the lower left corner and change the direction of embroidery in the opposite direction.
5. We make the next oblique stitch from the bottom right point to the top left point, overlapping the previous stitch made in the other direction.
6. We bring the needle down to the front side and repeat the process. The cross stitch should end in the place where it started.

Satin embroidery

The term “stitch” means making a pattern with very even stitches, directed in a straight line or at an angle. The types of seams of this pattern are quite varied. So, they can be simple, colored, linen, monochrome, etc. Regardless of what design is chosen for embroidery, you need to start with the fact that it must be transferred to the fabric using carbon paper. The outline of the pattern is sewn with stitches made with the needle forward. Then you can start filling out the pattern. The seam is made using large stitches between the finished contours. This filling is called flooring. The covering stitches should overlap the contour lines. To get a sufficiently embossed pattern, it is necessary to apply stitches with greater density. To make the pattern you are making smooth and beautiful, do not tighten the fabric with stitches while making the pattern.

Embroidery is creative process! Don't limit your imagination while practicing this ancient art. Retro and ethnic motifs are now in fashion.

Our six stitches will help you create embroidered paintings, ornaments, monograms and much more.

Tip: Before embroidering, use a disappearing marker to draw the lines of the embroidery design on the fabric.

Cross stitch

Bring the needle out of the fabric from the bottom right, insert the needle into the fabric at the top for the length of the cross stitch (= main stitch). At the same height at which the needle was inserted into the tissue, bring it out to the left. Continue in this manner until you have a full row of warp stitches.

Now stitch in reverse direction, making crosses (=covering stitches). Bring the needle out from the left at the same height and insert it from the right. The first cross is ready. Then withdraw the needle from the bottom left and enter from the right...

In our example, you got an oblique row of cross stitches. But using the same pattern, you can embroider rows of cross stitches in a straight line. This principle allows you to work rhythmically and is wonderfully relaxing...

Spinal suture

For this row of stitches, bring the needle from the back to the face, then diagonally to the right and up, from the face to the back. Pull the needle down.

Important: the thread must be under the needle.

Re-insert the needle diagonally to the right of the last pin. The needle passes over the thread. Repeat the above steps. Secure the last loop of the row with a stitch on the wrong side.

This creates a beautiful border.
This seam can be used to overcast edges, secure appliqués, or sew open edges. If the stitches are laid very tightly, you will get a loop seam.

Chain stitch

Bring the thread from the wrong side to the face, lay it in a loop and secure with one finger. Insert the needle into the place from where it was removed and withdraw it in the middle of the loop. When withdrawing the needle, the thread should be under the needle.

Repeat the stitch described in the previous illustration, inserting the needle inside the first loop. Do not pull the thread too tight. The loops must be the same length.

At the end of the row, bring the needle inside the last loop, then secure the thread. To do this, immediately under the last loop, reinsert the needle into the fabric and pull out the thread.
This is a great stitch for making spirals, monograms, ornaments and borders.

Herringbone seam

Bring the needle from the left to the face first, then make a long diagonal stitch up to the right. Now cross this stitch with a short diagonal stitch in the opposite direction. Bring the needle out exactly at the first point of exit.

Repeat the operations as described under the previous photo. The second row of stitches is worked downwards, tightly adjacent to the first row on the right. Embroider this second row in a mirror image in relation to the first.

The embroidery pattern creates a sophisticated ribbed effect that is ideal for filling out the interior portions of motifs.
Tip: Experiment with different embroidery colors.

Seam "forward needle"

This is a very popular stitch that looks the same from the front to the back.
The first row is performed from right to left. To do this, bring the needle out and insert it into the fabric from the left, then out again from the left... It is very important to ensure that the stitches are the same length.

At the end of the row, step back and fill in the empty spaces between stitches. When inserting and withdrawing the needle from the fabric, hold the needle diagonally as shown in the photo and pull it through the fabric.

A double needle-forward stitch (also called a basting or darning stitch) creates a clear outline. With this seam you can “draw” a clear line. It is suitable for quilting or for making various linear patterns and ornaments, the inner areas of which can be filled with flat satin stitch (see below).

Flat stitch (in one or more rows)

Flat stitching can be done without “framing” with a contour seam. But thanks to the contour, flat stitch embroidery becomes more flexible.
The areas are filled with straight stitches, performed diagonally from top to bottom. The stitches are placed so tightly together that the fabric does not show through.

In order to learn how to sew beautifully and competently, we need to carefully study the topic of “hand stitches and seams.” This is the basis of sewing skills, the secrets of which I will share with you on the pages of my blog!

In this article we will get acquainted with hand stitches - where they are used and how they are performed. And to begin with, I’ll tell you what a stitch is and what a seam is.

Stitch- this is a completed cycle of weaving threads between two needle punctures.

Line- a sequential row of stitches.

So, let's look at the types of hand stitches and their applications:

Running stitch– serves for temporary fastening of product parts. The stitch length is from 0.7 to 2.5 cm, depending on the type of fabric and type of work. The distance between stitches is 0.2 - 0.5 cm. That is, on the front side we see stitches of 0.7-2.5 cm, and on the back side of 0.2-0.5 cm.

Basting stitch– used to attach one part to another. For example: we baste a pocket to an apron. The stitch length is 1.5-3 cm. The finer the details, the finer the stitches.

Note stitch– used to fasten the folded edge of the product. The stitch length is 1-3 cm, depending on the structure of the fabric. We sweep “unruly” fabrics more carefully and make short and frequent stitches. For thick and dense fabrics, increase the stitch length.

Basting stitch– used for fastening parts that have been previously turned and turned inside with a seam. The stitch length is 1-2 cm. We also take into account the type of fabric. The thicker the fabric, the larger the stitch.

Copy seam– necessary for transferring marked lines to a symmetrical part. We baste two parts along the line requiring transfer, without tightening the stitches. They should look like loops on the front side. Then we move the parts apart and cut the threads between them. This way, we will have threads sticking out on both parts, along which we can safely draw chalk lines. Stitch length 1 - 2 cm, loop height 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Slant basting stitch– serves for temporary fastening of parts during basting with landing. For example, for fastening the upper collar to the lower one or valve parts. In the corners of these parts it is necessary to make a small fit from the top part. A bias stitch basting stitch will hold the fit very well. The fabric will not “shift” or warp. Stitch length 0.7 - 2 cm. Stitch width 0.4 - 0.6 cm.

Slant stitch basting stitch– used for fastening parts that have been previously turned and turned inside with a seam. And it is used in cases where we need to form an edging, a frame, or secure split seams. This seam is used when processing the edge of the side, lapels, collars and pockets. Stitch length 0.7 - 1 cm. Stitch width 0.5 - 0.7 cm.

Overcast bias stitch– used to secure the edges of the part and prevent threads from spilling out. It can completely replace the overlock stitch. Stitch length 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Stitch width 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Hemming stitch– used to permanently secure the folded edges of the product. To secure the bottom of the sleeve, the bottom of the product. For attaching internal sections of beads. The stitch length for securing the folded edges of the product is 0.3 - 0.4 cm, for hemming the hem 1 - 1.5 cm. The stitch width in seams with an open cut is 0.2 - 0.3 cm, with a closed (folded) cut 0. 1 cm. Seam width for hemming 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Overlock cross stitch– used for hemming collar and hem flaps women's coats, dresses, trousers made of easily fraying fabrics. The so-called “goat” :) Performed from left to right. Stitch length 0.5 - 0.9 cm. Stitch width 0.5 - 0.7 cm.

Marking loop stitch– serves for permanent fastening of several layers of fabric, in places where it is necessary to create a strong elastic connection (for marking armholes, sewing shoulder pads...) Stitch length is 1 - 1.5 cm. We make stitches from left to right. In another way it is called a “back needle” seam.

Loop stitch– used for permanent connection of parts, in places where it is impossible to machine stitch. The seam is similar to a loop-shaped marking seam, only we place the stitches close to one another. On the front side the seam is similar to machine stitching. Stitch length on the front side is 0.2 - 0.3 cm.

Hemming loop stitch– used to permanently secure folded edges with a closed cut. And serves for hemming linings and patch pockets. It is practically invisible from the front side. Stitch length 0.3 - 0.4 cm. Stitch width 0.05 - 0.1 cm.

Seam securing stitches- used to secure the ends of the lines when performing handmade, such as sewing on buttons, hooks, snaps. And also for making fastenings at the ends of loops, pockets, etc. Stitch length 0.3 - 0.4 cm.

Quilting stitch- constant. Used for holding together main and interfacing fabrics, for example, for lapel quilting men's jacket. Nowadays it is used extremely rarely, since cushioning materials are produced mainly on an adhesive basis. Stitch length 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Stitch width 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Fur stitch- used for permanent fastening and finishing the edges of jacket or jacket parts: sides and collar. Stitch length 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Friends, these are the basic hand stitches that are used to make garments! To consolidate the theory, I suggest you perform each seam on a small separate piece of fabric. If you have any questions, ask them in the comments or . And then move on to getting acquainted with.

© Olga Marizina