The history of washing hair with the head tilted forward. Preparatory work when washing hair

Course work

Modern methods therapeutic and prophylactic hair washing

Introduction

shampoo hair washing medicinal

The art of a hairdresser is compared to the work of an artist: a true master has impeccable taste.

The main and basic “tools” of a good hairdresser are his imagination, sense of modernity, aesthetic taste, a faithful eye and skillful hands.

At hairdressing schools and courses, hairdressers systematically learn new working techniques, modern methods hair treatments (coloring, curling, etc.), receive information about new haircuts, fashionable hairstyles, improving your skills. Depending on the type of work and the tools used, the profession of a hairdresser distinguishes specialties: hairdresser for men, women and children.

The main production operations of a hairdresser are: hair lightening, which can be either an independent or a preparatory operation; coloring with dyes; shampooing, accompanied by a light massage, therapeutic and preventive procedures with hair treatment with medicinal and regenerating preparations; haircut; perm; styling

1. Theoretical part

Let's start with history.

For many centuries, exclusively natural products were used to wash hair: egg yolk, sour milk, ash, clay, rye bread, decoctions from various plants. They rinsed their hair with herbal infusions.

In the middle of the 19th century, Europe began industrial production solid soap, and it began to be used for washing hair. Soap removes dirt well, but does not foam well in hard water and forms insoluble salts, which can settle as plaque on the hair and irritate the scalp. Special liquid soap was also used to wash the hair. “Green” soap, popular in those days, has medicinal properties, obtained from flaxseed oil.

Shampoos first appeared in the 30s of the twentieth century, and they were released by the Schwarzkopf company. In Russia, the first shampoo was created in the 60s. Soap base remained the main component for a long time, but then a replacement was found for it. Surfactants have begun to be used in shampoos, which foam well in any water and do not leave a dull residue on the hair.

Gradually, from an ordinary hygiene product, shampoo has turned into a multifunctional product that not only cleanses the hair and scalp, but also improves the appearance of the hair and even its structure, giving it volume and shine. Shampoos with therapeutic and prophylactic properties (against dandruff), 2-in-1 shampoos that combine detergent and conditioning properties in one composition have appeared. In a modern shampoo, everything is important: gentle care, the presence of active additives, pleasant appearance and smell, bottle design. And it is obvious that in the future the requirements for the properties of shampoo will increase.

Types of hair washing.

Washing your hair is an important hygiene procedure. Wet hair is more elastic and easily takes on one shape or another, stretches strongly and does not break. In addition, washing your hair is necessary to remove the oil that is secreted by the sebaceous glands of the scalp. If you do not wash your hair regularly, the sweat and fat released, mixing with skin flakes and dirt, will create favorable conditions for pathogenic bacteria that cause skin new diseases.

Washing your hair has three purposes:

v removal of dirt from hair (hygienic);

v removal of traces of previous installation (deformation);

v loosening the outer layer of hair (preparatory).

There are also three types of hair washing:

v hygienic - using regular shampoo;

v medicinal - using medicinal drugs;

v dry - using dry shampoo, produced in aerosols, or alcohol.

Most often, hygienic hair washing is performed. As you know, water has cleansing properties. When hygienic washing, shampoo is necessary only to increase the effectiveness of its effect. Shampoos contain substances that can cleanse hair of dirt, grease and styling products. Sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands does not dissolve in water, but under the action of shampoo it coagulates into tiny droplets and is washed away with water.

For getting good result It is very important to choose the right shampoo and prepare the water. Depending on the type and content of inorganic compounds, soft and hard water are distinguished. Soft water contains no a large number of inorganic compounds, so the shampoo lathers very well in it. Hard water, on the contrary, contains a lot of inorganic compounds, so the soapiness of the shampoo decreases. Hard water can be softened by adding borax or soda. Before choosing a shampoo, you need to correctly determine your hair type. Shampoos for damaged hair must contain substances that can improve their appearance. If your hair is oily, you need a special shampoo.

The current opinion that frequent washing increases their fat content is incorrect. Very oily hair can be washed even every day. To keep your hair intact and give it shine, you need to be very careful when choosing a shampoo, especially if you wash your hair frequently. Too active or incorrectly selected shampoo can harm your hair. Gentle, soft drugs, on the contrary, due to their healing properties improve the condition of the scalp and eliminate damage to the hair structure. It is very important to choose a shampoo with the required pH level, which characterizes the acid-base environment of the cosmetic product. The pH level can range from 1 to 14. A shampoo with a pH of 7 is considered neutral (neither alkaline nor acidic). At pH > 7 the shampoo is alkaline. The lower the pH value, the higher the acidity of the shampoo. Most shampoos are neutral or match the pH of the skin (5.5) or hair. Such shampoos are more preferable for washing hair. The shampoo cleanses the hair and scalp. The detergent base of all shampoos are surfactants that serve to cleanse the hair. In addition to the superficial active substances Shampoos contain substances for hair care and protection, functional additives, preservatives, active medicinal ingredients, as well as foaming agents.

Shampoo classification

Shampoos are divided into liquid and concentrated based on consistency. All concentrated shampoosBefore use, it must be diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio. According to their purpose, all shampoos can be divided into four types: regular, special (including “2 in 1” - sham puny and balm-rinse), medicinal and special purposes. Conventional shampoos most often require the use of other cosmetics(rinse aids, etc.). Special shampoos- These are mild shampoos that can be used every day. They do not harm the hair and do not irritate the scalp, as they have a neutral pH level. Medicinal shampoos, intended for “problem”, especially sensitive and damaged hair, with hold special medications. Special purpose shampoosused before or after perm or hair coloring. They neutralize the remaining oxidizer, strengthen the hair, make it more durable, close the cuticle scales, etc.

Preparatory work

Before washing your hair, the hairdresser must do the following:

· prepare your work area, be sure to clean the sink;

· invite the client to the chair;

· conduct a preliminary conversation;

· wash your hands and disinfect the tools;

· comb your hair thoroughly to identify the presence of diseases, as well as to determine the type of hair and its condition;

· cover the client with hairdressing underwear (use two towels and a napkin, with one towel placed on the shoulders and the second towel wiped off the hair);

· pour the required amount of shampoo into a measuring cup;

· adjust the water temperature (the optimal temperature for washing hair is 37 - 40°C).

A type of hair washing.

The hairdresser uses two methods of washing hair: with the head tilted forward and with the head tilted back.

When washing hair with the head tilted forward, it is necessary to offer the client a sterile napkin to protect the face.

2. Practical part

Hair washing sequence

Wet your hair thoroughly with water.

Pour the required amount of shampoo into your palm for more convenient distribution on the hair, as well as for warming.

Distribute the shampoo evenly over the hair, starting from the roots.

Lather the shampoo on the hair in a circular motion, with the fingertips moving from the edge of the hairline to the highest point of the head.

Rinse off the shampoo and then apply a second time.

Hygienic hair washing is performed twice.

Washing head.

Basic operations when washing your hair.

v Washing hair with henna.

v Washing hair with lecithin.

Types of hair.

There are 3 types of hair in humans: vellus, bristly, long.

Vellus haircover the entire human body, they are not found on the palms, soles and red border of the lips. This is very thin and soft hair, most often without pigment.

Stubbled hair- short hairs 1-2 cm long, these include eyelashes and eyebrows.

Long hair- thick hair of normal length.

U different people, and also in people of different races, the hair thickness is not the same, so hair is divided into thick and thin, hard and soft.

Washing head- this is a very important operation, the performance of which determines the quality of further hair processing.

Washing your hair has 3 purposes:

. hygienic(removal of grease, dust, etc.). Oily hair is difficult to process because... fat coats the hair with a thin coating, closes the pores and inhibits the penetration of coloring and curling products into the hair.

. deformation- wet hair takes on any shape, so when you wash your hair, traces of previous styling, hairstyles, and traces of hats are removed.

3. preparatory- consists of softening the outer scaly layer of hair from the effects of detergents and warm water, facilitating their rapid and unhindered interaction with other products.

Basic operations and types of work when washing your hair.

Washing your hair with detergent is done in 2 ways:

. with head tilted forward

. with your head tilted back.When using the second method, a special device (wing) or a sink with a recess is used. A recess in the fender or shell makes it possible to press your neck tightly against it so that water or hair treatment compounds do not get on your clothes. This method is now used more often.

When washing your hair leaning forwardno special equipment is required - the client tilts his head over the sink. This method of washing hair is more often used in men's salons, as well as in those hairdressing salons where there are no special devices for washing hair using the second method.

The client is covered with a towel, wrapping it tightly around the neck, after which the hair is thoroughly combed. Combing your hair before washing ensures a more even distribution of detergents over the entire surface of the hair and scalp and makes it easier to comb your hair after washing. Hair that is well combed before washing is easy to comb after this procedure. Before washing your hair, you can comb your hair with any comb, while after washing you should use only a non-metallic one, since a metal comb is easier to damage hair weakened by washing. Hair swollen from water and detergents loses approximately half of its strength to mechanical stress. Therefore, such hair requires more careful handling. It is especially important to remember this when treating hair that is naturally weak, since it can be easily damaged after washing.

v Hair washing equipment

To prevent water from getting on clothes, the visitor must press his neck tightly against the cutout of a special device (when washing his hair in the second method) or tilt his head forward over the sink (when washing in the first method), after covering his face with a sterile napkin. The hair is moistened with water, after which liquid soap or shampoo is applied. It should be borne in mind that cold liquid soap or shampoo causes discomfort, so it is better to apply detergent to your hair from the palm of your hand.

When using concentrated shampoos, before applying to the hair (or in advance), they are diluted in 8-10 parts of warm water. The use of concentrated shampoos without prior dilution in water can lead to seborrhea on the scalp. When applying detergent to your head, you should evenly distribute it over your entire head by lightly rubbing it in a circular pattern with your fingertips, trying to simultaneously cover as much of the scalp as possible with your fingers. When soap foam appears, the hair is rinsed with water and the soaping operation is repeated, since after the first soaping only the bulk of the contaminants are removed from the hair and scalp. If there is too much dust and other mechanical impurities on the hair or an excessive amount of fat, the first time you apply detergent to your hair, you will not be able to get a rich foam. In this case cleaning composition Apply to hair twice to remove major impurities and obtain a good, stable foam. The formation of abundant foam is an indicator that the hair is clean. Usually, to wash your hair well, it is enough to soap it twice. In rare cases, there is a need for a third soaping. Soap scum is removed from hair by thoroughly rinsing it with water. For one washing operation in the women's room, 20 - 25 ml of liquid soap is required, in the men's room - 8 - 10 ml.

Further hair treatment depends on what operation follows shampooing and what detergent was used. After washing liquid soap(and it is known to be alkaline), you need to rinse your hair with acidified water. This procedure is necessary to neutralize the alkali that is present in the soap, as well as to add shine to the hair. Thus, rinsing the hair with acidified water after washing it not only neutralizes the alkali, but also strengthens the hair structure and gives it a beautiful appearance.

When using alkali-free shampoos to wash hair, there is no need to neutralize alkali. Therefore, there is no need to rinse your hair with acidified water.

Neutralization of alkali with a solution of citric or acetic acid is carried out as follows: two or three tablespoons of 8% vinegar or 2 g of citric acid are diluted in 1 liter of warm water and the hair is rinsed with this solution on all parts of the head. The frequency of washing your hair depends on the condition of your hair and whether your scalp is oily or dry. In normal condition of hair and skin, the head should be washed every 6 - 7 days, in very oily skin this interval can be reduced to 3 - 4 days, and if it is very dry, on the contrary, it can be increased to 8 - 10 days.

Washing your hair with henna.

Pursues 2 goals:

. Medical- strengthens hair, eliminates dandruff

2. Tint- giving hair color

Performing washing (technology):

1. Preparation of the composition. 7g. henna for 100g. water temperature 85 degrees. Place in a steam bath

We start washing our hair with detergent (3-5 minutes), during which time the composition has cooled to 45 degrees and the henna has swelled

We wet the hair with a towel and apply the medicinal composition first to the ZZ, and then to the FTZ. Easy acupressure within 2-5 minutes

Wash off the composition with plenty of water without shampoo.

We blot with a towel and proceed to further operations.

Using henna when washing your hair has a positive effect on hair growth, cleanses the scalp of dandruff and gives light golden tones to light-colored hair. Therefore, washing hair with henna is quite widely used in hairdressing practice. To wash your hair you need to prepare a henna solution. One operation requires 5 - 6 g of henna. Henna is produced in bags of 25 g. Pour approximately a quarter of the bag into an enamel or porcelain bowl, mix the powder well and crush the lumps. 100 ml of hot water (80 - 85°C) is carefully poured into a bowl with powder, constantly stirring the liquid with a non-metallic stick. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that lumps do not form. As soon as the mass becomes homogeneous, you can stop stirring. The client is covered with a peignoir and a plastic cape, over which a towel is placed. It will retain the henna solution flowing down the plastic cape.

The client then washes his hair with soap or shampoo. After you finish washing your hair, you need to lightly squeeze your hair with your hands to remove excess water from it. Now you can start wetting your hair with the prepared henna solution. During the time it takes to wash your hair, the prepared henna solution has time to cool to 38 - 45°C.

It is better to wet your hair with henna solution using a special device (wing). To do this, slightly raise the client's head from the wing, leaving the neck tightly pressed against the cutout in it to avoid possible flow of henna onto the clothes. First, the back of the head is moistened with henna, including the hair along the line of its growth on the neck, and then, placing the head on the wing, the hair of the remaining areas of the head. After moistening all your hair with henna, you need to lightly massage your scalp with your fingertips. The henna exposure time on the hair is 5 - 15 minutes. After this, you need to rinse your hair with warm water without soap, dry with a towel and comb.

Washing your hair with Londestral emulsion.

The goal is therapeutic and prophylactic, i.e. elimination of dandruff, restoration of skin and hair, strengthening of hair.

Preparation of the drug.

g of the drug + 20 g. warm water - stir

Washing your hair with detergent

Apply to the scalp; on the ZZ, and then on the FTZ, applying first to the roots of the hair, and then over the entire surface of the hair.

Massage for 15 minutes

Insulating cap or the drug “Climazon” (exposure time 15-30 minutes)

After the exposure time has expired, wash off the preparation with plenty of water without using shampoo.

We blot with a towel and proceed to further operations.

Emulsion with lecithin (Londestral) is intended for the care of healthy hair and for restoring hair damaged by curling or coloring preparations. "Londestral" contains biologically active and restorative substances that have a beneficial effect on hair, helps remove dandruff and strengthens hair roots. As you know, the use of various chemicals to treat hair causes damage to one degree or another. So, with prolonged curling (permanent) as a result of the action of the alkaline composition and high temperature Drying of hair occurs very often. Similar phenomena are observed with excessive bleaching (bleaching) of hair with hydrogen peroxide. Thus, the use of emulsion with lecithin is especially recommended after curling and coloring hair.

Before washing the hair with an emulsion with lecithin, the client is covered with a towel in the same way as during regular hair washing. After this, the emulsion composition is prepared: one or two tablespoons of the emulsion, depending on the length and thickness of the hair, are diluted in 10 - 20 ml of hot water. Then wash your hair as usual and dry it with a towel. The emulsion paste is applied to the hair with a brush. To do this, divide the hair with a straight parting from one ear to the other and comb it from the parting in different directions, i.e. the front part of the hair towards the face, the back part towards the neck down. Hair treatment can begin from both the parietal and occipital parts of the head. To do this, gradually separating strand from strand with short partings, apply the emulsion to the hair.

The thickness of the processed hair strand at the base should be 1.5 - 2 cm.

After applying the emulsion, the hair is treated with steam under a PA-1 apparatus. At the same time, their stratum corneum softens, which promotes better absorption of the emulsion. A steam bath also has a beneficial effect on the scalp - the skin softens and absorbs the emulsion more easily. This provides additional nutrition to the hair roots.

Insulating cap

If the hairdresser does not have a steam treatment machine for hair, you need to use an insulating cap. The insulating cap is made of batting or foam rubber, lined on the inside and outside with polyethylene film or any other waterproof material. Hair covered with an insulating cap should be warmed under a dryer. When heated, wet hair and the emulsion on it begin to release steam. Since the lining is waterproof, steam is concentrated under the hood. The steam temperature when using an insulating hood is significantly lower than when using the PA-1 apparatus. Therefore, the exposure time under the PA-1 apparatus is slightly less (20 minutes), and under the insulating cap - 30 minutes. Moreover, when using an insulating cap, it is not necessary to warm your head under the dryer for 30 minutes. The first 15 minutes are enough to raise the temperature under the hood.

The role of therapeutic and preventive hair care products

Hair, as a result of insufficient secretion of the sebaceous glands or due to poor care, becomes dry, damaged and brittle. In this regard, various problems arise: healthy shine of hair is lost; due to the divergence of the scales, the hair splits; hair porosity progresses, which leads to a significant increase in drying time; Hair strength decreases: hair becomes more brittle due to the destruction of many cross-links in the keratin structure.

To solve these problems and prevent them, cosmetic preparations are used to care for hair during and after washing. Their main purpose is as follows:

restore lost shine to hair;

make it easier to comb hair;

strengthen thin, weakened hair, increase its elasticity;

make hair silky to the touch, without enveloping or weighing it down;

remove static electricity from hair;

make hair more manageable during hair styling.

Caring for problematic hair consists primarily of replacing it with missing components, and care will not be effective if these components are not fixed on the hair shaft so that they are not removed during normal rinsing with water.

Damaged hair, unlike healthy hair, has gaps in the arrangement of scales on the hair cuticle. The scales themselves may be damaged, raised, or clearly missing. Ordinary rinsing in an acidic environment can help smooth out raised scales. In some cases, the condition of the hair shaft is improved by adding substances to the hair rinse that form a more or less dense film on the surface of the hair shaft. The ideal arrangement of the scales ensures a smooth surface and easy combing of the hair.

It is more difficult to act on skin damaged by bleaching, coloring, curling or straightening, which makes up 90% of the total hair mass. The alkaline compositions of these drugs negatively affect the hair structure. The medulla is the part of the hair that is least accessible to cosmetic preparations.

Main ingredients of therapeutic and prophylactic agents

The quality and degree of impact of these drugs on the condition of the hair depends on the presence or absence of certain components in the composition of therapeutic and prophylactic hair care products. Ingredients that should form the basis of such preparations include cationic agents, strengthening agents and other formulation components.

Cationic agents. Hair that is treated with alkaline compounds during curling, coloring and intense bleaching gradually acquires an increasingly negative electrical charge on its surface. Cationic additives, which carry a positive charge, help restore the imbalance and are especially important for caring for damaged hair. The degree of interaction between the cationic agent and the hair depends on the pH and ionic strength of the shampoo. Accordingly, the drug formulation must take into account the ability of the cationic additive to change the degree of adsorption.

Strengthening agents. These include substances used to treat damaged, dull and porous hair. These products (for example, proteins) are fixed to the hair. During the treatment process, a protective film is formed on the hair shaft and the improvement in the quality and appearance of the hair becomes noticeable.

Other components. In addition to the above agents, components such as waxes, oils, silicone (organosilicon) compounds also play an important role in restoring the hair structure; plant extracts (calendula, mallow, jojoba, cartite, tea tree), proteins, mainly of plant origin

3. Classification of therapeutic and prophylactic agents

Therapeutic and prophylactic products for the scalp

Hair care consists of two stages: scalp care and hair care itself. All therapeutic and prophylactic products are thus divided into two large groups: products for the scalp and products for hair.

The scalp functions just like the skin of the rest of the body. Each cell goes through a natural cycle from birth in the lower layer of the epidermis to death and movement to its upper layer. Having reached the surface, the keratinized cells are gradually exfoliated as a result of friction and are washed away during washing. This cycle lasts approximately one month. Normally, the skin of the scalp and each individual hair are covered with a protective lipid film, which gives the hair water-repellent properties and resistance to mechanical damage. It has been established that washing removes 80% of the lipids that make up this film, the original level of which is restored only after 3 - 7 days. It is for this reason that daily hair washing leads to drying and flaking of the scalp, as well as thinning and brittleness of the hair shaft. Thus, the condition of the hair directly depends on the condition of the scalp. Hair loss, baldness (alopecia), and dandruff are all signs of unhealthy scalp. For the treatment and prevention of these diseases, there are many special means and preparations that improve the condition of the scalp and ensure productive growth of healthy hair. But treatment should begin with eradicating the cause of the problem.

Hair loss. With age, irreversible changes occur in the hair: it turns grey, and the body gradually loses the ability to fully replenish lost hair. This process is accompanied by thinning hair, loss of shine and elasticity. Frequent curling with curlers, the use of dyes, lighteners, curls - all this is also not harmless to hair. They become dull, brittle, difficult to style, and “scatter”. In addition to external effects on hair leading to hair loss, there are a number of internal causes: liver and stomach diseases, vitamin deficiency, stress, seasonal hair loss, etc.

Baldness (alopecia). The condition of hair, like skin, depends on the functioning of all functional systems of the body. The causes of baldness can be the same problems as with hair loss, as well as hormonal alopecia caused genetically (or increased secretion of the male hormone androgen), viral diseases, protein deficiency in food, postpartum period or abortion, immune diseases, etc.

The most common concept of the occurrence and development of baldness is nervous, but there are other reasons - malnutrition of the papillae and microcirculation disorder, the occurrence of foci of chronic infection, deficiency of microelements, impaired absorption in the small intestine, etc.

Dandruff. It was previously noted that on the scalp, as well as on other parts of the body, there is a constant process of desquamation of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. Under certain conditions, this physiological process changes: scalp cells begin to intensively exfoliate, sebum sticks particles together, and they become visible.

The rapid development of the fungus, increased keratinization (thickening) of the stratum corneum and the formation of a crust on the head, compressing the mouths of the hair follicles, are the main stages of the process.

The determining factor in the degeneration of the fungus is the state of the immune status. Violations of immune defense mechanisms lead to certain shifts in the state of the water-lipid mantle, where favorable conditions are created for the aggressive form of fungal development. The reasons that cause an imbalance of immunity can be very different - stress, overwork, hypovitaminosis, physical fatigue syndrome.

Frequent and irrational use of styling products can also lead to undesirable changes in the water-lipid mantle of the scalp and is a provoking factor in the development of dandruff. Products for styling and fixing hairstyles (gels, mousses, varnishes, waxes) form an impenetrable film on the hair and scalp.

Paints, bleaching agents, perm, and insolation have a negative effect. Treatment of dandruff should be aimed primarily at eradicating the cause. A preventive measure is proper hair care. The rules of hair care are similar to the rules of skin care - this is a system that includes several successive stages: cleansing, nutrition, moisturizing and protection. At the cleansing stage, the choice of shampoo is very important, especially when washing your hair daily.

Therapeutic and prophylactic hair products

This group of hair care products is represented by preparations for washing and after washing.

Therapeutic and prophylactic hair care products for washing.First of all, these are anti-dandruff hair preparations that combine therapeutic and hygienic functions. The difference from cosmetic shampoos is that medicated shampoos additionally contain an active ingredient to reduce dandruff. To enhance and consolidate the effect of shampoo, many companies offer additional lotions, gels, preparations in ampoules and other products, but they play minor role. The action of most anti-dandruff shampoos is based on the antibacterial and fungicidal properties of their constituent components, which destroy the fungus that causes dandruff. In addition, medicated shampoos regulate the functions of the sebaceous glands, relieve irritation and itching and, having a “peeling” effect, help remove dead skin flakes. At its core, this group of products is therapeutic and prophylactic drugs for scalp care, since the above functions of the drugs are aimed specifically at solving scalp problems. However, the relationship between the condition of the skin and hair is unconditional, and therefore the effect of the drugs on the scalp and hair will be similar.

Manufacturers of mass-market products (Head & Shoulders, Pantene Pro-V, Nivea) are also occupied with the problem of creating an effective anti-dandruff product. , and creators of professional (salon) products (“Schwarzkopf professional”, “Wella”), and developers of medicinal (pharmaceutical) drugs (“Nizoral Shampooing”, “Vichy Laboratory” - “Laboratoires Vichy”, “Lierac” - Lierac). When choosing one or another product, you should keep in mind that anti-dandruff drugs, especially pharmaceutical ones, are selected taking into account the type of dandruff, which can only be determined by a specialist (trichologist). Most medicated shampoos are designed only for a specific course of treatment.

The main ingredients of anti-dandruff treatments are:

Zinc pyrithione is included Vcomposition of shampoos designed to combat dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis; actively eliminates dandruff, normalizes the activity of the sebaceous glands of the skin, prevents hair loss;

piroctoneolamine has an anti-inflammatory effect, relieves irritation and itching; in combination with lemon oil and lipohydroxy acid, it has an astringent effect and has keratolytic properties;

hexamidine diisothionate has an antifungal effect;

salicylic acid helps remove dandruff flakes;

Selenium disulfide has an antifungal effect in the presence of dry dandruff;

octopyrox - active additive, designed to combat fungal diseases, including strains that cause dandruff. Staying on the hair for a long time, it prevents its reappearance;

Coal tar inhibits the formation of dandruff;

burdock and sage extracts regulate the functions of the sebaceous glands;

complex essential oils rosemary, cypress, cajuput tree, tea tree has antifungal and bactericidal effects, especially necessary for brittle and fragile hair;

myrtle extract is designed to combat oily dandruff and severe itching.

The miraculous properties of Dead Sea water and mineral salts also help to cope with dandruff, as well as radically reduce excess oily scalp and hair.

Therapeutic and prophylactic hair care products after washing.There are two groups of hair care products after washing: 1) rinse-off products; 2) leave-in products.

Group rinse-off productsfor hair care after washing includes all types of rinses or conditioners, starting with liquid milk, conditioners, hair combing creams of various consistencies and ending with liquid gels and masks. The main purpose of such products is to compensate for the adverse effects on the hair and give it properties such as ease of combing, elasticity, shine and softness.

Leave-in hair care products after washing are oil/water emulsions that have the following composition: base base; thickener; conditioning additives (surfactant cationic agents, cosmetic additives); special components; preservatives, fragrance. Let's take a closer look at each component of this group of funds.

The base consists of fat particles (oil phase), alcohols, ethers, waxes, which maintain the consistency of the product required for ease of application. Excess base in the formulation of the drug can cause weighting of the hair.

A thickener is necessary to strengthen the base, in particular to stabilize the emulsion. Most often, a colloid is used for this.

Conditioning additives are the main functional part of the composition. Conditioning additives determine the properties of the product. They can be divided into two categories:

cationic compounds (surfactants), which are quaternary ammonium bases with one or two chains. This group includes distearyldimethylammonium chloride, acetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, diphenyltrimethylammonium chloride. They act on the hair shaft, mask its surface defects, enclose the hair in a sheath, greatly facilitating combing and giving the hair softness;

cosmetic additives are mainly cationic silicon-organic polymers (silicones), but there may also be cationic polymers of a different nature. They provide ease when combing hair, give hair smoothness, shine, and make it pleasant and silky to the touch. Cosmetic additives also make it easier to style your hair.

Special components can be used together with cationic surfactants to achieve special effects, for example, the use of UV filters can enhance the effect of polymers and can contribute to the activity of the anti-dandruff drug.

Preservatives are just as necessary as in shampoos, with the significant difference that cationic additives themselves can have bactericidal properties and products with them are less susceptible to microbial contamination.

The mechanism of action of conditioners is based on cationic substances, mainly quaternary ammonium compounds, which are able to remain on the negatively charged surface of the hair by binding to keratin. This property is called substantiveness. It is due to their substance that conditioners are not only fixed on the surface of the hair, but also retain the beneficial additive.

Since damaged areas of hair have a negative charge, more cationic particles are fixed on them and the cosmetic effect is enhanced.

The downside of this process is that the hair becomes heavier and loses its fullness, so when creating a shampoo-conditioner, a balance must be maintained between detergent and conditioning ingredients. An unreasonable increase in conditioning ingredients in the formulation can lead not only to loss of volume and weight of hair, but also to a deterioration in shampoo properties such as cleansing and rinsing. The choice of air conditioner is also important. For example, silicone oils accumulate on the hair, so highly volatile silicones are used in hair products.

Among other advantages of conditioners, it should be noted that it gives hair a beautiful shine. This is achieved by the fact that conditioners glue the hair scales together, make the surface smoother, and change the reflection index of the hair, thus enhancing the color intensity and natural shine. Depending on the composition and effect on hair, the following types of conditioners are distinguished.

Mopstyreizers, or humidifiers, are designed for dry hair because they attract moisture. Common components of moisturizers are plant extracts and protein substances (protein). Moisturizers are often made from whey.

Reconstructors contain proteins, among which the most popular is hydrolyzed keratin. This protein has a small molecular weight, so it can easily penetrate the hair membrane. Conditioners - reconstructors are used for damaged hair (after perm, use of dyes, etc.).

Acidifier air conditioners (from the English acid - acid) have an acidity index of pH 2.5 - 3.5. Under the influence of such conditioners, hair becomes shiny and more elastic, resulting in the impression of a large volume of hair. The hair volume itself does not increase, it is just an optical effect.

Detangler conditioners are almost always acidifiers and act in the same way, with the difference that they help more with split ends.

Temperature protectors are found in shampoos that have the word “therma” in their names, for example “Thermasilk”. The protectors are based on special polymers, which, when applied to the hair, evenly distribute heat. This property conditioner is necessary for those whose hair is exposed to constantly changing temperatures and, of course, when using curlers and a hair dryer.

Conditioners should be selected taking into account the type and characteristics of hair. Conventional preparations are strong enough from wash to wash. But there are products with a stronger effect - silicones and polymers. They are included in rinses for the care of severely split hair. If after systematic use of this conditioner your hair becomes limp and heavy and difficult to style, then you should temporarily stop using the conditioner.

There are a number cosmetic products, also belonging to the group of rinse-off hair care products.

Oils and waxes (olive, jojoba, monoya) improve the structure of the hair, regulating the arrangement of scales, protect against adverse climatic influences and add shine to the hair.

Diamonds made using mineral oils. After using these products, the hair looks stuck together, and the film covering it collects dirt and dust. More modern versions of brilliantines contain lanolin, silicone derivatives, which improve the properties of this group of cosmetics.

Oils (“oil baths”) exist in fat- and water-soluble forms and require longer exposure times. Fat-soluble oils are applied before washing, water-soluble oils - before and after washing your hair. The disadvantage of this procedure is that it makes the hair heavier due to incomplete rinsing of the oil. Some hair cosmetics, such as sunscreen oils, which are commercially labeled as medicinal, are not oil-based, but are essentially lotions based on polymers and cationic surfactants.

Creams make combing easier and are suitable for all hair types. They are applied after washing your hair and washed off after a while. They are more or less liquid emulsions and contribute to easy combing, giving hair shine, softness and silkiness.

Balms with healing effects and warm oil wraps - effective means for hair restoration after perm or exposure to the sun.

Leave-in productsfor hair care after washing are represented by lotions, mousses, conditioning creams and cosmetic hair serums.

Lotions - specific products for hair care after washing (combing lotions and hair styling lotions); mainly intended for women who react negatively even to insignificant amount alcohol in the drug. These funds are created on wet hair film, and when the hair dries, they maintain the shape of the hairstyle. Lotions can be clear or translucent; Their consistency is light and non-greasy, suitable for all hair types. The formulations are usually very simple to avoid the effect of weighing down the hair. Lotions of this type add shine, volume to hair and remove static electricity. They can be produced in cans or aerosol packaging, as well as in spray bottles without propellant.

Hair mousses are another form of such products that are in high demand. They serve to shape and fix the hairstyle; when applied to damp hair, they add volume to the hair after drying. The consistency is foam in which polymer particles are suspended. Available in aerosol packaging with a dispenser.

Conditioning creams are applied after shampooing to make hair easier to comb and give it shine and softness. They can also be used to maintain the shape and fix the hairstyle. These are light emulsion creams, the composition of which is carefully selected. Instead of cationic surfactants, preference is given to polymers that are less substantial and either do not remain on the hair at all or remain in very small quantities.

Cosmetic serums are special products designed to improve the appearance of hair with damaged and (or) split ends. These serums are usually made with hydrophobic compounds that protect and smooth the ends of the hair, making the hair silky to the touch and at the same time giving it shine and softness.

It should be noted that after-wash hair care products are not only intended for dry hair. There are many formulas for normal and oily hair who need such products to facilitate combing.

. Therapeutic and prophylactic hair lotions

Types of therapeutic and prophylactic lotions.A separate group of therapeutic and prophylactic agents includes special lotions intended for daily use. Depending on the type of hair and the problems being solved, lotions can be intended for normal, dry, oily, overdried hair, dandruff, etc. Lotions come in two varieties: single-phase type - aqueous-alcohol transparent systems and two-phase type - containing an oil phase and an aqueous, significantly greater than oil.

The alcohol concentration in the water-alcohol phase is about 35% and should not exceed 45% to avoid the drying effect of alcohol on the hair. At rest, the two phases of different natures are separated, so before use the bottle should be shaken well to obtain a mixture of the two phases, which should remain stable throughout the solution application procedure. In water-alcohol lotions, ethyl alcohol is usually used, rarely isopropyl. The presence of alcohol provides an antibacterial effect and a tonic effect, helps reduce secretion sebum and quick drying of hair.

Both types of lotion can be applied to both dry and damp hair. Lotions are rubbed into the scalp, massaging it to activate superficial blood circulation and facilitate the penetration of beneficial additives, then the hair is dried with a towel, without rinsing off the lotions. They ensure hygiene of the scalp and hair, make it easier to create a hairstyle and give the hair “vitality”.

Prescription of therapeutic and prophylactic lotions.Hair lotions eliminate cosmetic imperfections such as dandruff, increased flaking of the scalp or excess sebum; heal and stimulate scalp sensitive to stress and pollution environment; promote normal hair growth; gives hair softness.

Modern shampoos differ from the first shampoos developed in Germany by the Schwarzkopf company in 1933. But the quality of the perfume and cosmetic products produced is still not high enough. Thus, surfactants provide excellent foaming and provide a good cleaning effect, but are quite harsh dermatologically. It is expected that formulations consisting of surfactants, water and a thickener will become a thing of the past, and new formulations will be more balanced. In the future, conditioning additives will take a worthy place, not only neutralizing electrostatic charge, but also delivering bioadditives to damaged areas of hair, improving their structure. The importance of protective and restorative components in shampoo will increase, since today, in conditions of environmental imbalance and the growing fashion for hair coloring, the traumatic effect on hair is increasing. At the same time, do not forget about the merciless UV rays and their harmful effects on unprotected areas of the skin and hair. Silicones, vitamins, marine polysaccharides, cationic polymers, etc. should certainly play an active role in the skin and hair protection system. Potential allergens - fragrances, dyes, preservatives - should also become safe. Regardless of age, individual characteristics, hair type, scalp condition, consumer properties creating new drugs will simply be impossible. They must meet the increasingly high demands of consumers to satisfy their needs.

Final works

On final stage washing your hair is necessary:

· carry out a neutralization reaction on the hair;

· wipe hair light wet movements;

· comb your hair starting from the ends;

· offer additional services (drying, styling, cutting, etc.);

· remove hairdressing underwear.

· Preparations for improving hair structure

To improve the hair structure, the following preparations are used: conditioners, rinses, conditioners, balms.

Balms- rinses in the form of liquid, cream or soap include substances that compensate for the loss of natural lubrication of the hair, soften the hair, relieve tension and give it shine. There are special additives that help neutralize the effects of chemical effects on hair when coloring or curling.

Acid rinsesused to restore pH levels and remove soap residue from hair. The fatty acids that make up soap combine with inorganic substances in water and form a soap residue that cannot be washed off with water. As a result, the hair loses its shine and is very difficult to comb. are changing. Currently, hair is washed with shampoos rather than soap, so acid rinses are practically not used.

Balanced acidity rinsesdesigned to fix color after applying dyes. They facilitate the penetration of dye molecules into the cuticle, which prevents hair from fading. Most often, these rinses contain citric acid and moisturizers that make hair soft and elastic.

Therapeutic rinsesreduce dandruff, improve appearance hair and ensure easy combing.

Air conditioners(liquid and creamy) are used to make hair easier to comb and add shine. However, it is not recommended to use these products very often, as they accumulate in the hair, making it heavy and greasy. This forces you to wash your hair more often, resulting in further hair damage.

Balms not only stabilize the pH level of the hair, but also smooth out the top layer (cuticle) of the hair, which swells and bursts when alkali hits it ( hard water, shampoo, dye or permanent composition). By smoothing the outer layer, the balm helps make each hair more manageable and prevents harmful substances from entering. The cuticle also helps protect each hair from water evaporation, which is a new cause of dry and brittle hair. Most balms need to be washed off with warm water, after which you need to thoroughly dry your hair. with light movements.

Similar works to - Modern methods of therapeutic and prophylactic hair washing

have beautiful and healthy hair- not only a natural desire of every person, but also a requirement modern fashion. Hair can be thick or thin, thin or elastic, wavy or straight. But they must be clean and well-groomed. Proper hair washing helps achieve this.

Hair washing is used in hairdressing salons for almost any service. If you do not wash your hair regularly, the sweat and oil released mix with skin flakes and dirt, creating a fertile ground for pathogenic bacteria, which can lead to various skin diseases. All types of hairdressing work, with the exception of hair coloring with dyes containing hydrogen peroxide, are performed on clean, freshly washed hair. Wet hair is more elastic, easily takes on one shape or another, stretches strongly and does not break.

Washing your hair has three purposes:

• hygienic - removing contamination from the surface of hair and skin;
• deformation - removing traces of the previous hairstyle;
• preparatory - softening the outer scaly layer of hair.

Hygiene goal washing your hair - removing dust deposits, as well as fat secreted by the sebaceous glands of the head. Oily hair is difficult to process, since fat, covering the scaly layer of hair with a thin coating, closes the pores and inhibits the penetration of coloring, curling and styling products into the hair. In this case, hair degreasing can be considered not only a hygienic, but also a preparatory operation.

Wet hair easily stretches and takes on the desired shape. This is a physical property of hair. It is this property that underlies deformation target washing your hair. Often the hair retains traces of previous styling or a certain shape from hats, and therefore, to eliminate such defects, the hair must first be washed and combed.

Preparatory goal shampooing involves softening the outer scaly layer of hair under the influence of detergents, which facilitate their rapid and unhindered interaction with other chemicals.

Washing your hair in hairdressing salons can be done in two ways - with your head tilted forward and with your head tilted back. In modern salons and hairdressing salons, the second method is used more often.

When washing with tilting your head forward no special equipment is required - the client tilts his head over the sink. The head is washed with shampoo, choosing the most suitable one for this purpose. of this type hair.

When using the second method with tilting your head back a special sink with a recess is used. The recess in the sink makes it possible to press the client's neck tightly against it so that water or hair treatment compounds do not get on clothes.

Depending on the type and amount of inorganic compounds, water can be soft or hard. Soft water contains a small amount of inorganic compounds (in particular, calcium salts), so shampoo lathers very well in it. Hard water contains a lot of inorganic compounds, so the amount of shampoo foam decreases. Hard water can be softened by adding baking soda. Favorable temperature for washing hair is 34 - 39°C.

Choosing a shampoo. When choosing a shampoo, you need to correctly determine your hair type. For many years, soap remained the main cleansing ingredient in shampoos. But it had a number of disadvantages, such as poor foaming in hard water and the formation of a matte coating on the hair. As a result, instead of soap, surfactants began to be used in shampoos, which produce abundant foam in water of any hardness and are easily removed when rinsing, without leaving a dull residue on the hair.

The ongoing search for new hair care products over the past decade has led to significant improvements in their quality. The main purpose of shampoos is to remove impurities from the hair and scalp. It should be noted that most modern shampoos contain certain conditioning additives.

Modern developments of new shampoos take into account the fact that hair is washed much more often today than several years ago; this stimulates the development of mild shampoos with a pH close to that of the scalp and hair (5.5 - 6.0).

Depending on their purpose, there are several types of shampoos:

• ordinary - most often require the use of other cosmetics. Typically this is detergents For various types hair (dry, oily, normal);
• special - usually mild; they can be used every day. They improve the appearance of hair, do not irritate the scalp, as they have a neutral pH level, and give hair shine and silkiness;
• medicinal - intended for especially sensitive and damaged hair and hair with dandruff. Special medicinal drugs are injected into them;
• special purpose - used before or after perm or hair coloring. They neutralize the remaining oxidizer, strengthen the hair and give it strength, close the cuticle scales, and preserve the color of dyed hair.

Hair washing technology. Before washing your hair, you need to prepare washing materials and hairdressing underwear, wash your hands, and invite the client to the chair. The client is covered with a towel, tightly wrapped around his neck, after which his hair is thoroughly combed. Combing your hair before washing ensures a more even distribution of detergents over the entire surface of the hair and scalp and makes it easier to comb your hair after washing. Also, during the combing process, the type of hair and its condition are determined, which allows you to more accurately select the necessary preparations for washing your hair. Hair swollen from water and detergents loses approximately half of its strength to mechanical stress. Therefore, such hair requires more careful handling. It is especially important to remember this when treating hair that is naturally weak, since it can be easily damaged after washing. Hair that is well combed before washing is easy to comb after this procedure.

After the hair has been combed, the client is invited to the sink. To prevent water from getting on clothes, the visitor should press his neck tightly against the cutout of the sink. The hair is thoroughly moistened with water, after which shampoo is applied. It should be taken into account that cold shampoo causes discomfort, so it is better to apply detergent to your hair from the palm of your hand.

When applying detergent to your head, you should evenly distribute it over your entire head by lightly rubbing it in a circular pattern with your fingertips, trying to simultaneously cover as much of the scalp as possible with your fingers. When soap foam appears, the hair is rinsed with water and the soaping operation is repeated if necessary. If your hair is very dirty, you can use shampoo to deep cleaning hair.

Foam is removed from hair by thoroughly rinsing it with water. For one washing operation in the women's room, 20-25 ml of shampoo is required, in the men's room - 8-10 ml.

Further hair treatment depends on what operation follows shampooing and what detergent was used. If your hair has been chemically treated, then for better combing of your hair you need to apply a small amount of medicinal balm. The shine of hair depends on the condition of its outer scaly layer. The more tightly the scales are pressed together, the better the hair shines. When using the balm, the outer layer of the hair is compacted, unevenness is smoothed out, which further facilitates combing and does not lead to mechanical damage to the hair. The frequency of washing your hair depends on the condition of your hair and whether your scalp is oily or dry.

Are they common? perfect hair? 95 percent of women are dissatisfied - the volume is too small, the hairstyle does not hold well, the hair does not shine, the haircut is bad. For all these problems, in most cases there is a simple solution: start with washing your hair, targeted hair care and optimal styling, then choose the right haircut that suits your hair and face type. That's all.

The optimal combination is hair washing and scalp massage. This way you do two useful things at the same time. The massage not only has a relaxing effect, but also increases blood circulation in the scalp. Consequently, the hair roots are supplied with life-giving oxygen and nutrients through the capillaries, and after a while you grow healthier and stronger hair Filatova S.V. "Encyclopedia of the modern hairdresser." - M.: RIPOL classic, 2010.

Proper hair washing

Shampoo is a mixture of tensides (cleansing foamy substances), water, preservatives and aromatic and nutritional substances. The secret of the effect lies in the finely thought out recipe. New shampoos for hair volume contain, for example, an active filler, which, when washed, envelops the hair like a second skin, making it thicker and stronger.

If you wash your hair daily, use a mild shampoo that does not dry out your hair (does not leach it). Exfoliating shampoo simply removes dandruff flakes. Like face and body exfoliators, this intensive cleanser contains microscopic beads that gently remove dead skin from the skin's surface. Bio-shampoo with nourishing additives such as wheat germ oil, jojoba, soybean and avocado oil, as well as lanolin, makes damaged, dry hair elastic even after washing. Be sure to wash long hair with a restorative shampoo that contains collagens and “cationic polymers.” These additives glue breaks and smooth out the stratum corneum of the hair. For those who are in a hurry, a two-in-one shampoo is practical, i.e. shampoo and conditioner in one bottle. For fine hair Particularly careful care is required.

Help your hair.

Almost every woman can have beautiful hair, for this you just need to pay a little attention to them, because the condition and health of our hair, as a rule, depends only on ourselves. It is up to us to provide our hair with proper, ongoing care. It won't take much time, and the result will be stunning. It is only necessary to note that regularity is important in hair care.

So, let's first deal with the most simple procedures hair care, regardless of its type - washing and combing hair Kudinova L.A. Long hair. From Eskmo, 2009.

Hair washing

The main thing when caring for your hair is to ensure that it is always clean and shiny. Before washing your hair, comb your hair thoroughly first. Then wet them with running water, the temperature of which is only 1 degree higher than human body temperature and is 37.6 ° C. Lather your hair twice; this is the only way to remove all accumulated dirt and dust from your hair. No shampoos labeled “Universal” or “For all hair types.” This product will either dry out your hair and scalp or not wash it out. Your shampoo should be exactly matched to your hair type. It should cleanse the skin without irritating or drying it out. You don't need to use a lot of shampoo to get good results. Be sure to use hair balm or conditioner afterwards. Rinse them off after a minute, using water a degree colder than the one you washed your hair with. This is especially important for those with oily hair. This way you neutralize the work of the sebaceous glands. Hair care. - M.: LLC TD "Publishing House World of Books", 2009.

Very oily hair can be washed at least every day, but dry hair, on the contrary, is not recommended to be washed more than once or twice a week, otherwise it may lose its natural moisture.

Greasy hair

Oily hair is caused by increased activity of the sebaceous glands, which are located next to the hair follicle. When hair comes into contact with each other, sebum spreads over the surface of the hair, covering it with a film. It is impossible to suppress the excessive activity of the sebaceous glands, so oily hair needs to be washed more often than usual, since dirt sticks to the sebaceous film faster. It is for such hair that dry shampoos are simply necessary.

Dry hair

For dry hair, use a mild shampoo and then a conditioner designed for dry hair. Sometimes it is better to wash dry hair with oily hair. toilet soap in soap suds and rinse with warm rather than hot water. Such hair needs to be trimmed regularly to remove split ends, otherwise it will split further and take on an unhealthy appearance. The condition of the skin and hair is often completely different: the scalp is excessively oily, while the hair is dry. This is due to frequent washing, which dehydrates them. When both skin and hair are very dry, treatment with warm vegetable oil is recommended. The oil temporarily envelops the surface of the skin and hair, preventing water from evaporating, and thereby restoring natural moisture. Warm up olive oil rub into the skin at the base of the hair, then tie a towel around the head, and wash off after an hour by applying shampoo to dry hair and gradually adding water.

Herbal remedies are also widely used to care for dry hair. Decoctions and infusions should be warm. They wash their hair without soap. After using them, the hair is not dried, but wrapped in a terry towel for an hour.

Among the most popular medicinal herbs stand out nettle (infusion of leaves (1:10) rinse hair or rub into scalp once a week after regular washing), parsley (1 teaspoon of parsley fruit is ground in a mortar, add the same amount of ethyl alcohol, and then 2 teaspoons castor oil), poplar buds, hop cones Panchenko O.A. “Haircut, highlighting, hairstyle” - St. Petersburg, 2009.

It is best to dye dry hair with vegetable dyes - basma, henna, walnut juice, rhubarb. Chemical dyes must be used very carefully. Bleaching and chemical perms cause great harm to dry hair. It is also harmful to comb and dry them frequently with a hairdryer.

Soft hair

With this type of hair, it is especially important to use a conditioner regularly, as it protects against static electricity, which causes hair to fly away and become unruly, and also helps to increase the volume of the hairstyle.

Mixed hair

Hair that is oily at the base but dry and brittle at the ends can be the result of over-washing oily hair or using the wrong shampoo. Use milder shampoos that contain high-quality, active detergents that cleanse hair without stripping the scalp, and rinse the ends of your hair with a conditioner that reduces dryness.

The frequency of washing your hair should depend on how quickly your hair becomes greasy and dirty. With modern shampoos, you can wash your hair as often as you want - even every day, but in this case you just need to use shampoos suitable for daily use.

After washing, tilt your head forward and lightly squeeze out excess water with your hands. Dry your hair with a towel and then tie it on your head with a turban. After a few minutes, remove it and let your hair dry on its own.

Before blow-drying your hair, apply styling mousse or a special antistatic product to slightly damp hair. This way you will protect them from the hot air of the hair dryer, make them more manageable, add volume and shine. Important nuance: To avoid drying out your hair, keep the hair dryer at a distance of 15 cm from your head. Direct the air flow from the roots to the ends of the strands, then your hair will remain shiny. The temperature regulator is installed on the handle of the hair dryer for a reason. It is better to start styling your hair with hot air; with its help you can give your hair any shape. To secure it, you will need a cold jet. If you have damaged, weakened hair, be sure to dry it with your head down, this way you can restore its volume. You can also use styling products for damaged hair. Use special attachments for hair dryers and brushes.

How to choose shampoo

Shampoo is different from shampoo, so carefully read the labeling on the package:

• - shampoo for oily hair contains strong cleansers and weak restoratives, only sufficient to make the hair pliable;
• - shampoos for dry hair contain weak cleansing, but strong restorative substances.

However, there are situations when the hair at the roots is oily and the ends are dry. Hair care in this case requires moisturizing and nourishing the ends and removing excess fat from the roots. Therefore, modern industry has created a special so-called balancing shampoo. It contains unique substances - microspheres and microsponges. Microspheres nourish and moisturize dry parts of the hair, and microsponges eliminate greasy plaque at the roots and are easily removed when rinsed. As a result, the hair along its entire length acquires a lush and healthy appearance.

Sometimes they ask the question, if your own shampoo suddenly runs out, can you use the one your husband or child washes their hair with: after all, all detergents act the same. This is a very common misconception. In fact, your household has a different pH reaction of the scalp and a different hair structure - babies have soft and thin hair, men have hard and unruly hair. Each of you needs the appropriate type of shampoo, otherwise your hairstyle will look disastrous. If you don’t believe me, see for yourself by experimenting with hair detergents. Shampoo for oily hair is not suitable for dry hair and vice versa. Literally the next day your hairstyle will look very unattractive.

By the way, the star of the series “Sex and the City” Sarah Jessica Parker, who is one of the three owners of the most luxurious curls in Hollywood, tried on her head not only children’s and men’s shampoos, but even those intended for cats, dogs and horses! Moreover, she liked the “horse” shampoo. Sarah forces her hairdresser Anthony Dickie to buy this exotic product for her. According to Anthony, many celebrities use it, but they don’t tell journalists about it because it doesn’t sound too glamorous. What can I say - stars have their own quirks... Modern encyclopedia "Fashion-Style", Avana 2010

So, no haircut, even the coolest one, will decorate you if your hair is not well-groomed. It is impossible to do this without the right detergent. What to focus on?

Much depends on the additives included in shampoos. Some of them are natural substances produced by the body itself. Others are specially created by cosmetologists. They are listed on the label.

B vitamins normalize the activity of the sebaceous glands and are necessary for hair loss.

Vitamin C activates metabolic processes and makes hair less brittle.

Vitamin E protects against the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays.

Vitamin PP is responsible for carbohydrate metabolism and enhances nutrition of the skin and hair roots.

Glucasil is produced by the body to nourish hair. Shampoos with this substance penetrate deeply into the hair roots, strengthening them.

Dimethicone makes hair shiny and smooth.

Ceramides are part of hair cells. Shampoos with ceramides are reliable protection against adverse external factors.

Keratin is the protein base of hair. It restores their structure.

Lipids - organic and mineral oils, have a softening effect.

Panthenol (provitamin B5) retains the natural moisture of the skin and hair well.

Protein is part of hair. The additive in shampoos further strengthens them.

Plant acids (alpha hydroxide) accelerate metabolic processes, cell renewal, and increase the antimicrobial barrier.

Retinol (vitamin A) gives elasticity, regulates the functioning of the sebaceous glands, preventing flaking of the skin.

Zinc pyrithione counteracts the appearance of microorganisms that cause severe itching.

In general, it makes sense to choose the mildest shampoo, since the scalp requires very gentle handling. For softness nothing can beat baby shampoo. If it doesn’t suit you, choose those shampoos that are marked with their pH level (degree of acidity/alkalinity). It is preferable to use shampoo whose pH level is close to 5, since it most closely matches the natural acidity of the scalp Nesterova D. Encyclopedia of the Home Hairdresser - M., AST, 2009.

There are several simple rules washing hair.

• - It is best to wash your hair with soft water. Boiled water is softer than tap water, but if you don't have time to boil water, you can soften regular tap water by dissolving a little baking soda in it.
• - Don't over-wash your hair hot water. The water temperature should be about 50 °C. Water at this temperature dissolves sebum well, removes dirt and improves blood circulation in the scalp.
• - Do not overdry your hair with a hairdryer, especially with a hot stream of air; This causes them to become dry and brittle. When using a hair dryer, keep it at a distance of 20-30 cm from your head.
• - To wash your hair, you will need not only hair shampoo, but also conditioner or hair balm. Choose a shampoo according to your hair type.

Types of shampoos Bumakova I. “The Big Book of the Home Hairdresser.” - Rostov-on-Don, 2010

Shampoo for oily hair contains a large amount of detergents that cleanse the skin and hair of excess oil. You should not wash your hair with this shampoo too often, as this can cause drying or flaking of the skin.

Shampoo for normal hair contains less detergent than shampoo for oily hair. It cleanses hair well without interfering with the natural secretion of oils.

Shampoo for dry hair contains few detergents, but it contains a humectant that prevents excessive dryness of the skin and hair.

Mild shampoo for frequent washing - very weak, does not irritate the skin and does not dry out the hair.

Anti-dandruff shampoo contains substances that slow down the division of skin cells and also removes dead skin flakes, similar to exfoliating products for the face and body. This shampoo is alternated with regular shampoo, since using it too often makes hair dull and dry.

These are only the main types of shampoos; in addition to them, there are shampoos for hair volume, restorative shampoos, shampoos with conditioner, with herbal extracts, etc.

Before washing, you should comb your hair thoroughly to remove any remaining styling products and dandruff. Do not apply shampoo directly to your hair, apply a little shampoo to your palm and add water to reduce the concentration. Apply the resulting mixture to wet hair and massage the scalp thoroughly. Massage improves blood circulation to the scalp, as a result of which the hair roots are better supplied with nutrients and oxygen, and the hair becomes stronger. Then rinse the foam completely and as thoroughly as possible from your hair and scalp, and rinse your hair several times with clean water. After this, it would be good to rinse your hair with an acidic solution (dissolve 1 tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice in 1 liter of water) or decoctions and infusions of dandelion, chamomile, nettle, coltsfoot and other herbs. This strengthens the hair, and sometimes gives it a certain shade (chamomile infusion is reddish, nettle infusion is ashy).

Sometimes they think that the more shampoo, conditioner, conditioner and conditioner you use when washing your hair, the better it will be for your hair.

British scientists believe that everything should be done in moderation. For 6 months, they observed 500 volunteers using varying amounts of shampoo and other hair-improving products. As a result, cosmetologists have developed the ideal formula for caring for hair of any type.

At short haircut use no more than 6 ml of shampoo per hair middle length- 8 ml, for long ones - 10 ml. Distribute it on the surface of the head for 28-30 seconds, making 20 massage movements with your hands in a clockwise direction. Then rinse your hair twice from roots to ends (22 seconds for each procedure) and apply balm or conditioner to it: 2 ml for short, 4 ml for medium and 6 ml for long strands. Wait about a minute and rinse your hair with running water at 36.7°C. Pat them lightly with a towel and let dry naturally, leaving his head uncovered Gutyrya L.G. “Hairdressing skills” - M., 2009.

How many times should you soap your hair? This must be done at least twice. The fact is that during the first soaping, only part of the dirt is removed from the hair; you can completely clean it of dust and sebum only by rinsing it well twice. Shampoos should be rinsed off especially carefully. Do it as stylists advise: rinse off for 3 times longer than you lathered. The hair should “creak” a little.

Sometimes they ask, is it possible to wash your hair with soap? In no case. It completely destroys the protective water-lipid emulsion film on both the hair and scalp. Hair becomes too dry and brittle. Should you change your shampoo often? If you have chosen a shampoo that you are completely satisfied with, use it for as long as you want. You can change it if your hair has become, for example, oilier or, conversely, dry.

Balms, rinses, conditioners

After washing your hair, it is useful to apply balm or conditioner to your hair. Their use makes the hair manageable, it is easy to comb, in addition, the conditioner protects the hair from environmental influences, and the balm has a healing effect on the hair.

Conditioner or balm is usually kept on wet hair for 1-2 minutes, after which the hair is thoroughly rinsed with water.

If your hair is dried immediately after washing, it becomes charged with static electricity, begins to fly away and is almost impossible to handle. Our grandmothers solved this problem as follows: you need to add vinegar and lemon juice in water to rinse hair. Now this problem is successfully solved with the help of a balm, which is applied to the hair after washing with shampoo.

The balm not only stabilizes the pH level of the hair, but also gives it shine and makes it more fluffy. The conditioner also smoothes the outer layer, or cuticle, of the hair, which swells and bursts when exposed to the alkali present in the water we use. By smoothing the outer layer, the balm helps make each hair more easily reflective and does not let harmful substances in. The cuticle also protects each hair from water evaporation, the main cause of dry and brittle hair.

Thus, the main danger that chemicals pose is precisely that they damage the water-retaining layer of the cuticle, and not the internal structure of the hair.

The principle of operation of rinses, conditioners and balms is the same: the special regenerating substances they contain (ceramides and proteins) replace the natural “glue”. As a result, the ruffled scales fall into place and form a single smooth surface.

The difference between conditioners and rinses from balms is only in the amount of these regenerating substances. There are fewer of them in conditioners, so they can only protect hair from environmental influences.

Balms contain more of these substances, which allows not only to protect, but also to restore, “repair” damage existing in the hair structure.

Conditioners and rinses solve hair problems, so they are applied to wet, freshly washed strands and left, as a rule, for 1-2 minutes, after which they are thoroughly rinsed with warm water.

Balms are more active and also take care of the scalp. That is why they are rubbed into the skin or applied first to the roots, and then distributed along the entire length of the hair. The exposure time is usually quite long - 10-15 minutes, but there are also fast-acting products (manufacturers know how little free time modern women have).

Conditioner must be used after each hair wash, and it is better to use balm 1-2 times a week, otherwise the strands may become heavy and dust and styling products will begin to stick to them.

Currently, industrialists often combine these two products and offer us conditioners that perform not only a protective function. They nourish, moisturize, strengthen hair, stimulate its growth, improve structure, remove static electricity, increase volume, help cope with tangled curls, and give healthy shine, fullness, elasticity, and firmness. Hair becomes manageable and easy to comb. There are special products for the care of dyed and highlighted hair - they treat it after exposure to dye and help preserve the color longer. The same applies to products that support hair after perm Camera P. Wadeson J. Hairstyles for long hair. From Niola-Press, 2010.

Types of balms

There are two types of balms: rinses, which are washed off with water, and hair masks, which penetrate damaged hair and soften it. Before using any new product, carefully study the method and duration of its use.

Balms are usually a mixture of various oils and paraffins that are insoluble in water. They leave a thin film on the hair even after the balm is washed off.

IN Lately Oil-free balms have been developed that can be used on oily hair without the risk of making it even oilier.

All these products that restore hair shine only have a temporary effect, because when the hair sprouts, it is already dead, so, obviously, it is unlikely that any products will be able to cure split ends. However, balms and rinses selected according to the type, structure and condition of your hair can be a good addition to your hair care routine.

To understand which rinse is right for your hair type, answer the test questions.

• 1. The texture of your hair:
  • a) very thick (thick);
  • b) medium thickness;
  • c) thin.
• 2. Your hair type: if you don't wash your hair for one day, your hair
• a) dry;
• b) normal (slightly oily at the roots and normal along the entire length);
• c) fatty from roots to tips.
• 3. The condition of your hair:
  • a) bleached or permed;
  • b) painted two tones from yours natural color, highlights and/or gray hair;
  • V) natural hair natural color.
• 4. When styling and drying your hair, you:
  • a) dry your hair daily with a hairdryer or curl (straighten) it with curling irons;
  • b) use a hair dryer or tongs from time to time;
  • c) dry your hair naturally.

Test results:

If your answers are dominated by:

A) along with the rinse that you use after each hair wash, it is better to use additional balms and masks specifically designed for dry hair. They enhance hair regeneration and protect it when blow-drying.

Split ends need additional nutrition and care. Therefore, use special conditioners that are applied not to the entire length of the hair, but only to the ends. As a result, the strands will remain lush at the roots and at the same time gain shine at the dull ends.

• B) use a moisturizing conditioner after every hair wash. If your hair is colored, use special restorative rinses for colored hair that do not contain ammonia and oxidizing agents. As a result, the hair structure will become uniform, and the color and shine will delight you for a long time.
• C) use conditioner for fine hair, containing special substances that cover each hair along the entire length with a protective sheath, which allows you to increase its diameter. However, frequent use of such products is not recommended - the hair can become heavy and sticky. It is enough to use a small amount of rinse aid after every second wash. For oily hair, use balms that contain substances that suppress the activity of the sebaceous glands.

Shiny hair

Advertising tirelessly tells us about shiny hair. According to industrialists specializing in the production of hair care products. Well, we will not deny that hair shine is one of its advantages. It is a sign of their health and beauty. Shiny hair attracts the eye, makes a woman feel confident, and creates a good mood.

Why does hair grow dull? Very often, hair loses its shine in the summer - it becomes dry, brittle, dull due to prolonged exposure to sunlight. Protect your hair from the harmful effects of the environment - cover your head from the sun, and wear a hat in the cold season.

There are other reasons: decreased sebum secretion, certain diseases, poor nutrition, insufficient blood circulation. In this regard, do a head massage, which increases blood circulation. For dull hair, experts recommend combing your hair in different directions at least 200 times per day. fresh air(or near an open window) and preferably with wooden combs or combs.

Hair often becomes dull due to frequent hair coloring and curling. Curling products, and chemical paints contain strong alkalis and greatly alter the natural acidity of the hair. This, accordingly, destroys the bonds that maintain the level of keratin in the hair structure, and rebuilds them Alexander Mysin “Hairstyles with hairpins for long hair”, AST Astrel, Moscow 2009.

Hair dryers, electric combs, curlers, and electric curling irons damage hair by concentrating heat and dehydrating it.

In addition, hair can lose its shine due to the fact that the wrong hair care products were selected that are not suitable for your hair type.

It is very important to maintain hair shine and dry it properly. For example, in China, women dry their hair by blotting it with a napkin made of natural soft silk. That's why Chinese women have shiny and silky hair. And in Rus' in the old days, women used linen towels to dry their hair.

To maintain the natural shine of your hair, you need to nourish it from the inside. The only nutrition that hair receives comes to it through the hair follicle, i.e. from the inside. Therefore, you need proper and balanced nutrition. Include animal protein, dried fruits, food gelatin, and B vitamins in your daily diet.

It is useful to wash dull hair with an egg once a month. Instead of shampoo, rub lightly beaten egg white (for short hair) or two yolks (for long and medium-length hair) into your hair and scalp. Rinse off with warm water after 15 minutes.

To make your hair silky and shiny, it is recommended to rinse it after washing. Home remedies can serve as rinses. Homemade rinses should be prepared depending on hair color.

Regardless of hair type and color, it is useful to rinse your hair with water with the addition of 6% table vinegar or citric acid (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water).

Rinse your hair several times with water and vinegar over a basin, collecting the draining liquid and using it again. Finally, rinse your hair with cool water. This will smooth the scales and increase the shine of the hair, restore the natural acidic environment of healthy skin.

Rinsing your hair with light beer is beneficial.

Brunettes and brown-haired women can use a decoction of hops to rinse their hair (2 tablespoons of hops and 2 tablespoons of tartar, pour 1 liter of water, boil for 20 minutes, then strain and cool). You can also rinse your hair with brewed tea: 2 tbsp. spoons of tea, pour 1 liter of water and boil for several minutes.

Dull hair will benefit greatly from cool, strong tea with mint as a final rinse - your hair will be especially shiny.

For blondes, it is recommended to use lemon as a rinse. Add to 1 l boiled water juice of one lemon. You can use citric acid (1 tablespoon of juice per 1 liter of water). Rinse your hair several times with water and vinegar over a basin, collecting the draining liquid and using it again. Finally, rinse your hair with cool water.

Washing hair as a hygienic procedure. Washing your hair is necessary to remove the oil produced by the sebaceous glands of the scalp. If you do not wash your hair regularly, sweat and oil released mix with skin flakes and dirt, creating a fertile ground for pathogenic bacteria, which leads to skin diseases. All types of hairdressing work, with the exception of hair coloring with dyes containing hydrogen peroxide, are performed on clean, freshly washed hair. Wet hair is more elastic and easily takes on one shape or another, stretches strongly and does not break. Thus, hair washing is performed for the following purposes:

· Removing dirt from hair (hygienic washing);

· Removing traces of previous installation (deformation washing);

· Loosening the outer layer of hair (preparatory wash).

the washing up Hair with Shampoo use refers to Hygienic.

For Medical Medicinal preparations are used to wash hair.

Dry Washing is done with dry shampoo, available in aerosols, or alcohol.

Let's focus on the most common type of washing - hygienic washing using shampoo. Water has cleansing properties, and shampoo is only necessary for its effectiveness. Shampoos contain substances that can cleanse hair of dirt, grease and styling products.

Sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands does not dissolve in water. But under the influence of shampoo, the fat coagulates into tiny droplets. To get a good result after washing your hair, it is very important to choose the right shampoo and prepare the water.

Water preparation. Depending on the type and amount of inorganic compounds, water can be soft or hard. Soft water contains a small amount of inorganic compounds, so shampoo lathers very well in it. Hard water, on the contrary, contains a lot of inorganic compounds, so the soapiness of the shampoo decreases. Hard water can be softened by adding borax or soda.

Choosing a shampoo. When choosing a shampoo, you need to correctly determine your hair type. Shampoos for damaged Hair should Contain substances that improve the appearance of hair. If your hair is oily, choose a special shampoo. The opinion that frequent washing of hair increases oiliness is incorrect. Very oily hair can be washed at least every day with daily shampoo.

To keep your hair shiny and undamaged, you need to be very careful when choosing a shampoo, especially if you wash your hair frequently. It is very important to choose a shampoo with the required pH level, which characterizes the acid-base environment of the cosmetic product. The pH scale runs from 1 to 14, with a pH of 7 considered neutral (neither alkaline nor acidic). A pH level above 7 indicates that the product is alkaline. The lower the pH number, the higher the acidity of the product. Most shampoos are neutral or match the skin or hair pH of 5.5. Such shampoos are more preferable for washing.

The detergent base of shampoos is a system of surfactants that cleanse the hair and are therefore present in all shampoos. Shampoos also contain substances for hair care and protection, functional additives, preservatives, active medicinal ingredients and foaming agents. The abundance of foam rather indicates not the cleanliness of the hair, but the presence of foaming substances.

All shampoos can be divided into liquid and concentrated according to their consistency. All concentrated shampoos must be diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio before use. According to purpose, all shampoos can be divided into four types: regular, special, including “2 in 1” - shampoo and conditioner, medicinal and special purpose.

Regular Shampoos most often require the use of other cosmetics.

1. INTRODUCTION
Beautiful hair always causes envy and admiration. But, unfortunately, some can only envy, while others have stunning hair from early youth until old age. This is exactly what you need to strive for, despite lack of time, natural laziness and difficult circumstances. If the hair is far from perfect - dry, split ends, brittle or, on the contrary, excessively oily, this will certainly cause a lot of trouble. Our ancestors believed that good and healthy person hair should grow well. Dull, falling out, sparse and brittle hair often indicates the presence of various diseases.
The beauty of hair depends on the condition of the skin of which it is an appendage. Therefore, the appearance of the hair can also be used to judge the condition of the skin. Normal hair is silky to the touch and shiny. Dry hair is usually dull, brittle, and split at the ends. They grow poorly and quickly deteriorate from curling, chemical dyes and electric dryers. Dry hair should be protected from the sun with a hat. Oily hair becomes shiny, sticky, and dirty already on the second or third day after washing. Frequently washing your hair with hot water, unfortunately, does not reduce their oiliness, since hot water, on the contrary, enhances the function of the sebaceous glands.
Hormonal changes in the body, blow-drying, coloring, perm, hard water, stress - all this negatively affects the condition of the hair. The approach to the problem must be comprehensive and individual.
Fortunately, we all have many ways to maintain the beauty of our hair throughout our lives. True, you will have to work hard for this. It turns out that the products sold in stores are often not enough for our hair. With all the advantages of the modern cosmetology industry, it must be admitted that natural products cope much more successfully with the problems of hair loss, dandruff, excessive oiliness or dry hair. Of course, no one denies that using ready-made tools is much easier and more convenient. However, if you are willing to spend a little time and effort on preserving (and improving) the beauty of your hair, then the result may very well turn out to be truly fabulous.
Run beautiful modern hairstyle- it’s not an easy matter. And the role of the hairdresser in creating a general harmony of lines, taking into account the individuality of the client, is sometimes decisive. Every person resorts to the help of a hairdresser in the hope that he will create an elegant hairstyle based on his knowledge and the requirements of modern fashion, professional experience and personal taste. That is why the profession of a hairdresser should be chosen by people with a creative nature and a sufficiently developed aesthetic taste.
Performing stylish haircuts or hairstyles, hair coloring and highlighting is far from full list provision of hairdressing services. A hairdresser, in our opinion, must be able to care for both his own hair and the hair of his clients, be able to give them practical advice on their care depending on the type of hair and skin diseases, therefore the topic of the final written examination is “Washing, drying and massage heads”, in our opinion, is relevant. When writing it, we set the following goals and objectives:

consider the technology of hair washing and its basic operations depending on hair type;
describe the stages of combing and drying hair of various lengths;
identify indications and contraindications for head massage;
consider the technology of head massage and its types.

2. WASHING YOUR HEAD AND HAIR
2.1. Purposes and methods of washing your head and hair
Having beautiful, healthy hair is not only the natural desire of every person, but also a requirement of modern fashion. Hair can be thick or thin, thin or elastic, wavy or straight. But they must be clean and well-groomed. Proper hair washing helps achieve this.
Hair washing is used in hairdressing salons for almost any service. If you do not wash your hair regularly, the sweat and oil released mix with skin flakes and dirt, creating a fertile ground for pathogenic bacteria, which leads to skin diseases. All types of hairdressing work, with the exception of hair coloring with dyes containing hydrogen peroxide, are performed on clean, freshly washed hair. Wet hair is more elastic, easily takes on one shape or another, stretches strongly and does not break.
Washing your hair has three purposes:

hygienic – removing contamination from the surface of hair and skin;
deformation - removing traces of the previous hairstyle;
preparatory – softening the outer scaly layer of hair.

Hygiene goal washing your hair - removing dust deposits, as well as fat secreted by the sebaceous glands of the head. Oily hair is difficult to process, since fat, covering the scaly layer of hair with a thin coating, closes the pores and inhibits the penetration of coloring, curling and styling products into the hair. In this case, hair degreasing can be considered not only a hygienic, but also a preparatory operation.
Wet hair easily stretches and takes on the desired shape. This is a physical property of hair. It is this property that underlies deformation target washing your hair. Often the hair retains traces of previous styling or a certain shape from hats, and therefore, to eliminate such defects, the hair must first be washed and combed.
Preparatory goal shampooing involves softening the scaly layer of hair under the influence of detergents, which facilitate their rapid and unhindered interaction with other chemicals.
There are also three types of hair washing:

hygienic – using regular shampoo;
medicinal – using medicinal drugs;
dry – using dry shampoo, available in aerosols, or alcohol.

Washing your hair in hairdressers can be done in two ways - with your head tilted forward and with your head tilted back. In modern salons and hairdressing salons, the second method is used more often (Fig. 1).

Figure 1. Washing with your head tilted back
When washing leaning forward no special equipment is required - the client tilts his head over the sink. The head is washed with shampoo, choosing for this purpose the most suitable one for a given hair type.
When using the second method with head tilted back a special sink with a recess is used. The recess in the sink makes it possible to press the client's neck tightly against it so that water or hair treatment compounds do not get on clothes.
Most often, hygienic hair washing is performed. As you know, water has cleansing properties. For hygienic washing, shampoo is necessary only to increase the effectiveness of its effect. Shampoos contain substances that can cleanse hair of dirt, grease and styling products. Sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands does not dissolve in water, but under the action of shampoo it coagulates into tiny droplets and is washed away with water.
To get a good result, it is very important to choose shampoo and prepare water.
Depending on the type and amount of inorganic compounds, water can be hard or soft. Soft water contains a small amount of inorganic compounds (in particular, calcium salts), so shampoo lathers very well in it. Hard water contains a lot of inorganic compounds, so the amount of shampoo foam decreases. Hard water can be softened by adding borax or soda. Favorable temperature for washing your hair is 34-39°C.
2.2. Hair and head washes
Washing is one of the most important hair care procedures. In order for your hair to be healthy and shiny, you should determine your hair type and choose the right shampoo accordingly. Shampoos for damaged hair should contain substances that can improve their appearance. If your hair is oily, you need a special shampoo. The current opinion that frequent washing increases their fat content is incorrect. Very oily hair can be washed even every day.
To keep your hair intact and give it shine, you need to be very careful when choosing a shampoo, especially if you wash your hair frequently. Too active or incorrectly selected shampoo can harm your hair. Gentle, soft preparations, on the contrary, due to their healing properties, improve the condition of the scalp and eliminate damage to the hair structure.
It is very important to choose a shampoo with the required pH level, which characterizes the acid-base environment of the cosmetic product. The pH level can range from 1 to 14. A shampoo with a pH of 7 is considered neutral (neither alkaline nor acidic) with a pH>7 the shampoo is alkaline. The lower the pH value, the higher the acidity of the shampoo.
Most shampoos are neutral or match the pH of the skin (5.5) or hair. Such shampoos are more preferable for washing hair.
Shampoo cleanses hair and skin. The detergent base of all shampoos are surfactants that serve to cleanse the hair. In addition to surface substances, shampoos contain substances for hair care and protection, functional additives, preservatives, active medicinal ingredients, as well as foaming agents.
Depending on their purpose, there are several types of shampoos:

ordinary – most often require the use of other cosmetics. As a rule, these are detergents for different hair types (dry, oily, normal);
special – usually mild action; they can be used every day. They improve the appearance of hair, do not irritate the scalp, as they have a neutral pH level, and give hair shine and silkiness;
medicinal – designed for particularly sensitive and damaged hair and hair with dandruff. Special medicinal drugs are injected into them;
special purpose – used before and after perm or hair coloring. They neutralize the remaining oxidizer, strengthen the hair and give it strength, close the cuticle scales, and preserve the color of dyed hair.

Shampoos are divided into: liquid And concentrated .
All concentrated shampoos must be diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio before use.
Shampoos for normal hair should be gentle. For washing such hair will do a light hygiene product, not overloaded with nutrients, which gently cleanses the hair and does not dry out the skin.
For normal hair, undyed and unbleached, you can use “universal” shampoos that have an average effect.
Shampoos for fine hair contain, in addition to mild detergents, hair strengthening substances (keratin, protein or herbal extracts). They contribute to the formation of a light rough film on the hair, create volume and maintain the hairstyle. Proteins and some urea compounds strengthen the hair shaft, making it stiffer. Accordingly, shampoos that contain proteins and add volume to the hair are suitable for fine hair. Thanks to these substances, the hair does not stick together so quickly.
Shampoos for oily hair . Oily hair is washed with acidic shampoos containing, for example, cedar oil.
Detergents for oily hair contain a minimum of nutrients, there are no fatty additives at all. Moreover, such shampoos often contain antimicrobial and tannin substances, which give the hair a “combing” roughness. They are added to shampoo to normalize oil secretion and prevent hair from sticking together after washing.
Shampoos for dry and split ends . There are special shampoos for dry hair; they usually contain a lot of fatty additives and moisturizing substances.
These preparations are supplied with lanolin or lecithin, and also contain synthetic adhesives that make the hair elastic and smooth. For thin hair or mixed hair types, it is better not to use such shampoos; nutritional additives can put a lot of stress on the hair, and it will quickly stick together. In this case, it is better to use special shampoos for oily hair and carry out treatment as often as possible.
Shampoos for dry hair are vigorously rubbed into the scalp to restore normal sebum secretion. Before washing, partings are made on the head with a comb, and the skin is covered with a thin layer of shampoo. The skin of the scalp is strongly massaged with the pads of the fingers. In order for lanolin to be better and faster absorbed into the skin, you need to tie a heated towel around your head. After some time, you need to apply shampoo again and wash your hair.
Shampoos for damaged hair . Bleached or colored hair should be washed with neutral shampoos with a high content of nutrients (bone marrow, egg yolk, etc.).
Hair damaged by perm or bleaching requires special care. You should use shampoos for damaged hair that contain proteins, jojoba oil and avocado.
Shampoos “2 in 1” . This is the name for shampoos that not only wash, but also have conditioning properties, that is, they smooth, normalize hair and nourish its roots. After using these products, your hair is shiny and easy to comb. But with prolonged use, problems may arise. Additives such as silicones settle on the surface of the hair over time, weighing it down and making it limp. If this happens, you need to switch to using shampoo for normal hair for a while.
Cosmetologists believe that there cannot be a universal double shampoo. The effect of “2 in 1” shampoo is contradictory in essence: surfactants wash away part of the conditioner, weakening the protective effect of the latter. In addition, the condition of the hair must be constantly monitored, and the conditioner in the shampoo interferes with this, only visually improving the appearance of the hair. “2 in 1” is most suitable for traveling conditions. We must remember that conditioner adheres better to hair when used separately from shampoo.
Anti-dandruff shampoos . Such shampoos contain detergents that free the scalp of dead particles and additives that slow down the formation of new dandruff. Anti-dandruff shampoo is used only when it appears.
Simple dry dandruff is more treatable, but is somewhat less common. Oily dandruff is usually combined with seborrheic dermatitis, which is often accompanied by itchy skin.
Many shampoos that do not match the oiliness of the skin can provoke excessive sebum production, and this contributes to the growth of fungus. In such cases, you have to use double doses of shampoo, which leads to thinning of the epidermis. Hence the conclusion: shampoo should be selected not only according to hair type, it is also necessary to take into account the type of scalp.
Polishing shampoos . These shampoos save hair from excess nutritional supplements. They have enhanced cleaning abilities. The use of such shampoos is justified before perm or coloring.
2.3. Technology for washing your head and hair
Preparatory work.
Before washing your hair, the hairdresser must do the following:

prepare your work area, be sure to clean the sink;
invite the client to the chair;
conduct a preliminary conversation;
wash your hands and disinfect the tools;
comb your hair thoroughly to identify the presence of diseases, as well as to determine the type of hair and its condition;
cover the client with hairdressing linen (use two towels and a napkin, with one towel placed on the shoulders and the second towel wiped off the hair);
pour the required amount of shampoo into a measuring cup;
adjust the water temperature (the optimal temperature for washing hair is 37-40 °C).

In the hairdresser, they use two methods of washing hair: with the head tilted forward and with the head tilted back.
When washing hair with the head tilted forward, it is necessary to offer the client a sterile napkin to protect the face.
Hair washing sequence

Wet your hair thoroughly with water.
Pour the required amount of shampoo into your palm for more convenient distribution on the hair, as well as for warming.
Distribute the shampoo evenly over the hair, starting from the roots.
Lather the shampoo on the hair in a circular motion, with the fingertips moving from the edge of the hairline to the highest point of the head.
Rinse off the shampoo and then apply a second time.

Hygienic hair washing is performed twice.
Final works .
At the final stage of washing your hair you need to:

carry out a neutralization reaction on the hair;
wipe your hair with light blotting movements;
comb your hair starting from the ends;
offer additional services (drying, styling, cutting, etc.);
take off your hairdressing underwear.

To improve the hair structure, the following preparations are used: conditioners, rinses, conditioners, balms.
Conditioner balms in the form of a liquid, cream or soap, they include substances that compensate for the loss of natural lubrication of the hair, soften the hair, relieve tension and give it shine. There are special additives that help neutralize the effects of chemical effects on hair when coloring or curling.
Acid rinses used to restore pH levels and remove soap residue from hair. The fatty acids that make up soap combine with inorganic substances in water and form a soap residue that cannot be washed off with water. As a result, the hair loses its shine and becomes very difficult to comb.
Currently, hair is washed with shampoos rather than soap, so acid rinses are practically not used.
Balanced acidity rinses designed to fix color after applying dyes. They facilitate the penetration of dye molecules into the cuticle, which prevents hair from fading. Most often, these rinses contain citric acid and moisturizers that make hair soft and elastic.
Therapeutic rinses reduce the amount of dandruff, improve the appearance of hair and ensure easy combing.
Air conditioners (liquid and creamy) are used to make hair easier to comb and add shine. However, it is not recommended to use these products very often, as they accumulate in the hair, making it heavy and greasy. This forces you to wash your hair more often, resulting in further hair damage.
Balms not only stabilize the pH level of the hair, but also smooth out the top layer (cuticle) of the hair, which swells and bursts when alkali (hard water, shampoo, dye or permanent composition) gets on it. By smoothing the outer layer, the balm helps make each hair more manageable and prevents harmful substances from entering. The cuticle also helps protect each hair from water evaporation, which is the main cause of dry and brittle hair.
Most balms need to be rinsed off with warm water, after which you need to thoroughly dry your hair. light towel movements.
It is not recommended to comb your hair immediately after washing; you must first dry it slightly naturally. It is also not recommended to use a very hot hair dryer to style wet hair.

3. COMBING YOUR HAIR
3.1. Tasks of combing hair
Combing is a mandatory operation for all types of hair treatment without exception, even those that are completely different from each other. Combing allows you to perform the most important tasks :

eliminate tangled hair(tangled hair prevents you from quickly and correctly separating strands of hair when curling, and when coloring, combing the dye onto the ends of the hair);
ensure that the hair is positioned parallel to each other, which is very important when winding on curlers or bobbins to obtain a high-quality curl (the hair of each strand, when winding on the appropriate tool, must be positioned perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the tool - this requirement can only be met by combing the hair and keeping it parallel to each other. In addition Moreover, if the hair is not parallel, it is impossible to achieve a uniform distribution of the wetting composition for perm);
give hair the desired direction(fulfillment of this condition is of great importance for hairstyle design);
determine the hair length of each or individual sections of the scalp(a necessary requirement for cutting certain styles).

3.2. Stages of combing heavily tangled hair
Before combing your hair, you need to check how tangled it is. If the hair is in good condition (for example, it was combed by the client shortly before coming to the hairdresser), the combing process is simplified and represents only a control check of each section of hair with a comb. If the hair is very tangled or unkempt, combing it must be done with extreme caution. Haste can lead in this case to painful sensations and to the fact that the hair can not only be torn, but also pulled out along with the bulb. This is what makes it necessary to split the operation of combing heavily tangled hair into several stages.
Initial stage of combing very tangled hair dividing hair into sections . The size of the separated areas should be inversely proportional to the tangle of the hair - the more tangled the hair is, the smaller the area allocated for combing. It is better to take the first strands for combing your hair from the lowest parts of the scalp. Comb the strand as follows. Using the thumb of your left hand or little finger, lightly press the base of the strand to be processed to the scalp. This is necessary so as not to cause the client pain in case of forced stop of the comb in places where the hair is especially tangled. It is advisable to start combing your hair from the ends. Having carefully combed the first 5-10 cm of hair strands, proceed to combing the next part of the strand, approaching the base. Stop combing by passing the comb freely and repeatedly throughout the entire strand of hair.
After combing one strand of hair, separate the area adjacent to it and process it in the same way as the first, etc.
For combing, use a wide-toothed comb and hold it in the first way (Fig. 2).

Figure 2. Combing hair
Final stage of combing – combining combed strands and contour combing them . As with combing small areas, the task can be considered completed if the comb passes smoothly along the entire scalp.
3.3. Combing short hair
For combing short hair there is no need to divide them into sections. In this case, combing is done with light and short movements, holding the scalp of the area of ​​hair being combed with your hand. Only after making sure that there are no tangled areas of hair do they begin to comb the entire scalp. By freely and repeatedly combing the hair with a comb, the task of combing the hair can be considered completely completed.
The hairdresser's movements should be light, neat, and unhurried. Special attention Requires combing wet and damp hair. Such hair loses strength and is easily pulled out. You should also be very careful when combing hair that is systematically permed, dyed, or bleached.
Combing your hair is also good for hygiene. In the process of combing, as a result of scalp massage, blood flow to the hair papillae and hair roots increases, which has a beneficial effect on their vital functions. However, increasing pressure on skin covering when combing it can cause irritation.

4. DRY HAIR
Hair drying is a mandatory final operation for almost all types of customer service, especially in women's rooms. The need to dry hair sometimes arises during one or another hair treatment operation. However, the main purpose of drying is to fix the shape that was given to the hair when wet. The quality of styling depends on how well the hair has dried, i.e. the final appearance and relative durability of the hairstyle.
Wet hair is very plastic (pliable) and quite easily takes a given shape using a styling or curling tool. When dry, their elasticity is restored, and the hair is able to retain the shape it was given in a wet state for a long time. Hair is dried using special devices (dryers) (Fig. 3.).

Figure 3. Sushuar
The quality of hair styling depends on how the hair is dried. The hairstyle will not last long on under-dried hair, since it has not fully restored its elasticity. If your hair gets too dry, it loses its shine, becomes brittle, and your hairstyle doesn’t last long. Therefore, you need to limit yourself to only such a drying time, during which all the moisture applied to them has time to evaporate.
It is very difficult to determine the really right time for drying hair, since there is no special standard for this. Therefore, firstly, the hygroscopicity of hair should be taken into account, i.e. their ability to absorb a certain amount of moisture. If the hair is poorly wetted (water flows off it and is not absorbed), it dries very quickly. Hair 12-15 cm long, which has minimal hygroscopicity, can be dried under the device in 10 minutes. Porous (hygroscopic) hair requires more time to dry - 20-25 minutes. The more hygroscopic the hair, the longer it will absorb water and, therefore, the longer it will dry. It is especially important to take this property of hair into account when curling it with curlers.
Another important factor in determining how long it takes to dry your hair is the thickness of the strand you are curling. Drying time also depends on the length of the hair. As noted above, hair 12-15 cm long can be dried depending on its properties in 10-25 minutes. Drying hair longer than 30 cm requires significantly more time - 30-40 minutes. This difference in drying time for hair of different thickness, length and properties is very significant. Therefore, it is important for a hairdresser to be able to determine the required time for given hair with an accuracy of 5 minutes in order to avoid too much drying or under-drying of the hair. In the latter case, the hair simply dries out. If you overdry, irreparable damage is caused to your hair - it becomes brittle and loses its shine.
Before the client is seated under the dryer, you need to adjust the temperature using a thermostat (50-60°C) and set the time switch to the minimum number of minutes required to dry the hair of this group. After the set time has expired, do a drying quality control check by untwisting two or three curls. If your hair is slightly damp, you can increase the drying time by 5-10 minutes. The curlers should not be untwisted immediately after drying. You need to keep them wound for some time so that they cool down. This is necessary because heated hair does not have sufficient elasticity due to the action elevated temperature. The stratum corneum of the hair softens from heating, as a result of which the curls can unwind halfway even under the influence of their own weight.

5. HEAD MASSAGE
5.1. Purpose and general rules of head massage
Massage (from French. massage- “to rub”) is one of the oldest methods of healing. The essence of the massage is that by kneading the skin and subcutaneous tissues, we improve the functioning of the subcutaneous sweat and sebaceous glands, blood vessels, muscles, activate nerve endings, and increase the tone of the whole body. By rubbing the bruised part of the body, stroking the face when tired, and even scratching the back of the head, we give ourselves a massage. But, of course, these are only initial movements - there are detailed schemes for whole body massage for therapeutic, hygienic (cosmetic) and sports purposes. The ability to do massage and self-massage is a very useful skill.
Head massage improves blood circulation, strengthens hair roots, softens the scalp, facilitating better penetration of biologically active substances contained in the medicinal emulsion. In addition, massage improves the functioning of the sebaceous glands, preventing the appearance of seborrhea.
First, let's list a few general rules . Do not rub the skin superficially, but press it against the bone and only then move it with circular or straight movements, as if palpating, kneading and rubbing, all the time feeling the bone. The massage begins with light, stroking movements - the scalp should be warmed and washed. Gradually, the impact of the fingers intensifies, and at the end of the massage weakens again, ending with light, gentle touches. The first massage sessions should be shorter and the impact lighter - this way the body will gradually get used to this procedure. Rhythm is of great importance during a massage - the client, obeying the rhythm of the massage therapist, seems to be anticipating the next movement in advance, so he feels comfortable and relaxed. You cannot start a massage very energetically and end it suddenly. After the massage, you need to rest for 10-15 minutes (even if you are going to start washing your hair). It is not recommended to massage the head more than twice a week.
The massage is performed only on clean, damp hair with the obligatory use of therapeutic and prophylactic drugs.
Currently, all companies producing professional perfumes produce a series of hair care products, as well as preparations for intensive hair treatment. Special knowledge is required to use these drugs. Therefore, let’s get acquainted with the simplest and most accessible drug “Londesral”. It is produced by the German company Londa in the form of an emulsion and intensive.
Londestral emulsion is available in liter packaging and is intended for the treatment of all types of hair. Londestral-intensive is usually available in 100 g tubes and is intended to treat a specific hair type.
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