Russian folk costume is a bright, original element of the richest native culture, which synthesizes different kinds decorative creativity: traditional elements of cut, ornament, use of materials and decorations characteristic of Russian clothing in the past.

Russian fashion and women's clothing

Nowadays, Russian style is warmly welcomed in European fashion. The Pavlovsk scarf is perceived as very fashion element clothes. Russian culture introduced embroidery with colored threads, beads, stones, gold and ribbons into world fashion. Nowadays, many designers use fabrics in the Russian shawl style in their works. A traditional Russian scarf is painted with flowers: in the center there is one large element, and towards the edges the flowers begin to decrease in size. Another inimitable and unique feature of the Russian national style is lace. It looks romantic, mysterious and exotic. Fashion in Russian folk style allows the use of lace in all types of clothing and accessories.

IN Lately V winter season fashion has returned. Modern felt boots are produced in Russia and abroad. Now they are embroidered with multi-colored patterns, beads and leather inserts.

I would like to note that a fashionable and modern image in the Russian style is formed taking into account the number of elements of the Russian costume. It should not be combined with things made in the vintage and grunge style, because such a combination will look more like a poor relative from the distant past than the image of a beautiful fashionable lady.

Ksenia Sobchak in a Pavlovo Posad scarf

Alena Vodonaeva

Miroslava Duma

She also won the hearts of her contemporaries: sheepskin coats, trousers, and hats with earflaps. Although they came to Russia in the fifth century from the Baltic states, they were accepted here only in the nineteenth century and since then have been considered native Russians. In a sewing workshop in St. Petersburg, the hat was improved and ribbons were added to it. Since the Great Patriotic War, hats with earflaps have become a part of women's wardrobes.

Because of its practicality and ability to transform, hats with earflaps are still in fashion today. And thanks to the imagination of our designers, they come into the wardrobe of fashionistas all over the world in new and new variations. They are wonderfully accompanied by improved models of boots, cases for mobile phones, wallets, handbags, belts, mittens and many other accessories of the same Russian folk style.

Interpretation of a hat with earflaps in the collection of Jean-Paul Gaultier

It did not go unused, of course, and thanks to which children all over the world began to resemble the kids from bast pictures. If such clothes are made according to folk canons and only from natural materials, then they become very high quality, beautiful and comfortable. All mothers who have given preference to the Russian style in children's clothing will confirm that modern folk clothes for children are very comfortable, beautiful and healthy. Loose-fitting shirts, blouses, sundresses and skirts, decorated with cute embroidery and lace, give children a touching doll-like look.

Clothes in Russian folk style

Ethnic motifs in the outfits of contemporaries are increasingly popularized. Elements can already be guessed in collections based on the fashion of other countries. But many characteristic details have also been introduced into our culture, for example, from Indian (paisley or “paisley”), Scottish (original checkered), gypsy attire (colorful fluffy skirts) and so on. Of course, both Russian and any other clothes are slightly “modernized”, but the main idea remains: these are loose, comfortable, practical outfits. In national style best houses Fashion today offer their own outfit options.

Ulyana Sergeenko is a famous Russian-style clothing designer

Outfits from the collection of Ulyana Sergeenko

For example, dresses of wide models, with elastic bands, embroidery and pleats at the neckline. The sleeves are raglan, short, with gathered elastic at the cuffs. The edge of their hem is slightly rounded. IN folk traditions– natural material (most often linen, cotton and even hemp). Long checkered shirts, slightly elongated, with a comfortable hood. A short clasp is placed at the front in the middle or on the side (variant of a shirt). The sleeves are rolled up and secured with a strap. There is an elastic band on the hips. Beautiful and comfortable!

Russian motifs in the Gaultier collection

Especially often used in women's wardrobe, children's dresses with frills and edging made of snow-white lace with fine embroidery are also decorated. There is a loose elastic band at the top of the dress, the straps are detachable; padded with a fine cotton lining. Flannel shirts, sundresses in the Russian style, linen tunics, blouses, ribbons, hair bands, trouser belts, woven dresses with straps, knitted children's and women's capri pants and many other clothes in the Russian folk style are also decorated with ornaments. And if once upon a time for poor peasants embroidery or lace was the only way to add a festive touch to their usual outfit, today analogues of those decorations are equated to high art.

As a result, the conclusion suggests itself that modern fashionable man must be able to masterfully combine denim clothes and Russian ethnic motifs in the wardrobe. Even a business dress decorated in Russian folk style will look luxurious at the most formal receptions. Therefore, allow yourself to show your essence as a Russian person not only in actions, words and thoughts, but also in clothes.

Russian folk clothing photo

Natalya Vodyanova

Ulyana Sergeenko in a coat from John Galliano

Miroslava Duma

Ethnic style in the modern fashion industry has many directions. Among all the diversity, Russian stands out especially clearly. Bright attractiveness, originality of execution, organic combination folk ornaments and expressive Slavic tradition look impressive in the outfits of modern fashion designers.

Historical basis for modern creative experiments

Russian style of clothing became popular all over the world about a century ago. The revolution of 1917 provoked mass migration of Russians to distant countries, where forced migrants had the opportunity to introduce the world to the unique culture of Russians.

Russian style smoothly penetrated into European and then American fashion culture. Spectacular patterns on fashion catwalks turned into breathtaking dresses with luxurious folklore patterns. Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich were the first to decide to try on elements that clearly demonstrate what the Russian style of clothing is - colorful shawls, extravagant kokoshniks, blouses and suits with complex decor in the spirit of ethnic motifs.

Russian style of clothing in the modern fashion industry

Typical elements of Russian style are nesting dolls, Khokhloma painting, woolen shawls, and down scarves. Most clothing attributes have a winter orientation, which is predetermined by the specific climatic conditions in Russia.

The first couturiers who risked using “purely national” patterns to create spectacular dresses for women were Yves Saint Laurent and Paul Poiret. The following fashion designers and fashion houses could not resist the beauty of native Russian motifs and charismatic style:

1. Chanel and Kenzo noticed an extravagant kokoshnik and a brutal budenovka. Women's clothing in their interpretation looked very colorful and unusual;
2. Vyacheslav Zaitsev is a domestic master in the fashion industry who creates luxurious women's dresses and charismatic outfits, using original patterns in the ethnic Slavic style;
3. Denis Simachev from time to time demonstrates spectacular ensembles for women to the public.

The main elements in patterns and ready-made fashionable ensembles

Stylistic combinations in the Russian style format assume the presence of several characteristic attributes at once. First of all, you should pay attention to the styles of dresses for women. The main qualities are simplicity, comfort and convenience.

Dresses are characterized by rather long straight skirts resembling a bell; sundresses with straps are popular. Many people use patterns for dresses with a very high waist. For tailoring, we use exclusively natural materials and textures - linen, cotton, silk, wool, leather and fur.

Details

For the perfect pattern of a traditional Russian dress or suit, it is extremely important to pay attention to minor details. In the vast majority of cases, turn-down round collars.

The sleeves are either straight or with a lush design - like “lanterns”. Often they use an elongated peplum, laced belts, and ribbons in the format of fasteners.

Color compositions and designs

The combination of red with black and white patterns is in favor. Various shades of green, yellow, orange and golden tones are also popular. Since the fabrics used are of natural origin, all shades of bleached and natural flax imitating burlap. Gray, beige, and cream tones are used only as a basis to create a bright, complex image.

Discover amazing world Russian style in women's clothing. World podium in different countries and continents, he appreciated the originality and relevance of outfits in the Russian style.

The Russian ethnic trend in modern fashion is becoming extremely popular, although it is considered a little original and differs from other styles in its naturalness, colorfulness and expressiveness.

Folk motifs are present in almost all collections of modern fashion designers; they create an image of simplicity, originality and even shyness.

The increased popularity of the Russian style of clothing prompted us to create a separate publication on this topic. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the basic concepts of Russian style in women's wardrobe and familiarize yourself with its key features.

Examples of Russian clothing style in advertising photo shoots

This fashion has long been loved by many beauties.

Basic concepts in Russian style

Distinctive original symbols that distinguish the Russian style of clothing are: Khokhloma patterns, posad shawls, nesting dolls.
From the beginning to the present day, such an outfit is an unusual combination of modern motifs with national Russian elements, embodied in comfortable and convenient everyday items for every day.

Where and when did the Russian style originate?

Since 1910, the Russian style began to conquer the world in small steps. French Couturier Paul Poiret came to Russia and was amazed by the local culture, returning to his homeland, in 1911 he created the first in the world European fashion clothes with Slavic style. These were dresses embroidered with gold thread, coats with voluminous floral patterns, reminiscent of the patterns of Pavloposad scarves, hats made of expensive Siberian furs, which were especially liked by the Parisian public and became Russian style classics.

Russian style clothing and ornaments on Pavloposad women's scarves

Until now, Western couturiers associate Russian chic with exoticism, aristocratic sophistication, and luxury.
From 1920 to 1930 Russian style clothing took a leading position in the fashion world with the help of the first wave of emigration. Designers Jeanne Lanvin and Paul Poiret, fashion houses Paul Caret, Worth and others created for their clients wedding and evening headdresses made to look like a kokoshnik, straight-cut blouses and dresses with a wrap and clasp, embroidered with symbolic patterns or painted like a splint, voluminous long coats with stand-up collars like those of the boyars.
Coco Chanel came up with shirt-dresses with an embroidered belt and collar, bags with a corresponding theme worn over the shoulder, suits and coats embroidered with beads and decorated with fur.

Details of Russian style in individual items

Yves Saint Laurent released a collection in 1976 called “Russian Ballets”, it aroused great interest in the West in the mysterious Russian traditions. Boyars were presented on the podium bouffant skirts high-waisted coat in Russian style, printed, knitted White dress, made to look like a nesting doll, painted scarves, sheepskin vests. French Couturier on long years consolidated the Russian style in the fashion of world capitals.

History of the name of the Russian style

The origins of the name of the Russian style are still the French fashion innovator Paul Poiret, who consolidated the national decoration of Russia with his collection.

In Europe, the word “Russian” represents: 1) shawls with a woven printed pattern made of wool, cotton, and silk have been worn in Russia since the end of the 17th century. They complemented and even replaced the headdress of women of all classes, and were also part of the outfit as decoration.

Examples of women's scarves in the Russian style

2)COAT, which our queens and princesses of the 19th century wore. These are long, fitted, generously decorated with fur and expensive embroidery with high collars. Noble ladies at that time were distinguished by gold embroidery and beaded decoration on the top layer; the fabric was made of felt, plush, velvet, brocade, always with a silk lining.
3) A hat with earflaps, which became the Russian national headdress in the 19th century. The hat is made of suede or fur with flaps sewn to the sides and back.


During the Great Patriotic War, women in the service tried on men's uniforms, and from that time on, the earflap hat finally established itself as a ladies' wardrobe.

Clothes in Russian style and its main features

There are very few original Russian distinctive clothes in the wardrobe: a long sundress, a shirt, a winter caftan and a scarf. But any clothes that exist now can be decorated in a Russian theme. For example, using hand-knitted thin lace, Russian-style designs on fabric, hemstitch embroidery.

Accessories of the Russian style and its characteristics

The decoration of the Russian style is:

• - colorful ribbons;
• - flower wreaths;
• -bracelets made of wood and leather;
• -beads.

You can also complement the look with stylized earrings, a kokoshnik embroidered with stones and beads. You can use colorful shawls, scarves, capes as an outfit.

Variants of Russian kokoshniks

The relevance of the Russian style

Properly selected clothes in Russian folk style will make you stand out in a gray, faceless crowd of identical outfits and will allow you to look original, beautiful and extraordinary.
A girl in such clothes will certainly attract the attention of others, arousing considerable interest.

Who is the Russian style suitable for and why?

Russian style in modern clothing undoubtedly suits women of Slavic appearance, emphasizing their ethnic origin.

Casual wear in Russian style on the streets of Russian cities

This style suits any age, any body type. After all, in long sundress With vertical uneven lines or a wide caftan, you can hide your delicious curves in the best possible way.

Who doesn't suit Russian style and why?

It is not advisable for people with African skin type to resort to the Russian style of clothing, since the image is created on the basis of contradictions in style and appearance.
Blonde women with curvaceous figures are not recommended to use clothes painted with Gzhel in their image; it will emphasize even greater fullness, making the figure wider, and blonde hair will make you faceless against its background.

Russian style 2017. New trends

An unusual and elegant evening dress created in Russian style in the spring-summer of 2016 will be fashionable in any decor variations. For example, golden embroidery, flared hem, voluminous flowers and so on. The dress should be long, without a pronounced waist.

It is worth noting that clothes with Russian patterns are, as a rule, red and white and floral print.

In the new year, the fashion for red and white colors is extremely popular among designers in Western Europe. It is enough to quickly look through several dozen collections from the spring-summer season to be convinced that red and white have become the unspoken favorites of the new season. This is precisely what is associated with the revival of the relevance of this style in the modern women's wardrobe.

Fashion for Russian style in designer collections of recent seasons

Prints are used: flowers or folk patterns that emphasize the figure and good taste. Focus on the stars dressed in Russian themes.

Stars in Russian style

Many celebrities use the Russian style in their image: Ksenia Sobchak, Alena Vodonaeva, Miroslava Duma, Natalia Vodianova, Ulyana Sergeenko and many others.

Fashion collections in Russian style

In 2016, fashion designers prepared a collection of clothes in the Russian style: Yulia Yanina with the fall-winter collection 2015-2016, Vyacheslav Zaitsev with a new fashion collection of ethnic style.
Russian style in clothing has always been and remains a fashionable trend. And if you are not a true follower of folk motifs, at least one detail of your wardrobe should be made or decorated in the Russian style, this will attract the attention of not only men, but will also make many women jealous.

Fashionable ethno style

Surely the brightest, most memorable, most colorful is. And not only because its range of outfits is much greater than in any other, but also due to the fact that ethno style is a style of good mood.

Briefly about historical facts

Ethnic style involves the use of various elements and items of clothing of national costumes. They pay attention to everything: not only individual items and their elements, but also materials, cut, accompanying shoes and accessories.

Indian classic women's outfit

Classic folk clothing from various countries (India, Russia, Egypt, Greece, etc.) is increasingly used to create modern collections and fashionable looks.

fashion clothes in ethno style

The basic rules that designers adhere to when creating clothes are to provide maximum comfort and naturalness.

For the first time, ethnic style of clothing began to be promoted among hippies.

The hippie style of clothing is not just an image, it is a whole philosophy of life

It was quite normal to come across Indian saris somewhere in the wilderness of Canada or painted fabrics and floral scarves in a modern city in the USA.

In the same way, various Greek, Russian and African motifs fell in love.

Greek ethno style

The ethnic style of clothing first appeared on the catwalk in the 10s of the 20th century. It was then that the famous designer P. Poiret showed the whole world an extraordinary collection of clothes in the East Asian style. As some say, his ethnic style was inspired by none other than the ballet “Scheherazade.”

Later, a collection with Slavic roots was also created, which was called “Kazan”. A little later, in her 20s and 30s, the unforgettable Coco Chanel also fell in love with the ethnic style and continued the work of Poiret: she created new Slavic collections.

Sketches of clothes in Russian style from Chanel

The motifs of hot Africa in the collections of fashion designers Philip Miller and Yves Saint Laurent amazed many.

Ethnic style from Yves Saint Laurent

The ethnic style of these masterpieces was reflected in the use of fringes, plant and animal designs, various turbans, headbands and prints in the form of mythological birds. Ethnic clothing is increasingly appearing in the shows of fashion houses. The last of them were Balmain, Kenzo and Christian Dior.

Egypt

The clothes of many designers here and there hide echoes of the mysterious Ancient Egypt. First of all, this is expressed in a certain color scheme: white, blue, gold, turquoise and yellow.

Egyptian ethno style involves the use of natural colors

As prints, they most often prefer to use various ancient hieroglyphs, geometric figures or images of the elements, pharaohs, symbols of Egypt (scarab beetles, lotus flowers, various deities and birds).

Ethnic style of Egypt - diversity geometric shapes
American singer Rihanna in ethnic Egyptian dress

Egyptian ethno style practically does not limit the choice of fabrics. Here you can safely choose linen, silk, fur and wool, leather and suede. And among the decorative elements, metal plates, embroidery and fringe are preferred.

A variety of women's tunics, floor-length dresses over one shoulder, richly decorated fabrics - this is exactly how fashion dictated that women dress in those days.

Egyptian clothing style has remained unchanged for thousands of years.

Men also chose loose tunics and wide shirts, which were usually decorated under the chest or at hip level.

Greece

Greek ethnic style is a bit similar to Egyptian. This fashion also includes loose-fitting items for both men (tunics, shirts, pants) and women (floor-length dresses or middle length). However, Greek fashion, in comparison with Egyptian, became more elegant. Freedom and comfort remained, but at the same time some zest began to be added.

Greek classical fashion
Modern Greek style for men

While Egyptian fashion focused on geometric shapes in tailoring, Greek fashion features V-shaped necklines and more feminine dress silhouettes. Of the main fabrics, they preferred light, translucent ones: chiffon, silk, and some types of fine knitwear. Dresses made from such “flying” fabrics flowed beautifully over the figure and emphasized women’s silhouettes. From color range We tried to choose pastel colors, white, gold, blue, and from prints – drawings of plants and trees.

Russia

Russian traditional clothing holds a special place in the hearts of designers especially for its abundant use of embroidered elements, buttons and colorful motifs.

There is a complete variety in the choice of fabrics: silk, linen, cotton, satin and velvet, cloth and even lace, which were additionally decorated with embroidery, beads, numerous stones, fur inserts and fringe.

Russian style of clothing represents wealth and beauty

Russian fashion is replete with colors: bright red, green, blue, brown, terracotta, black and gold - all these colors were actively used in clothing.

The gold color in clothing has always enjoyed great recognition among women.

The golden color in clothing has always enjoyed great recognition among women, and it is not inferior in popularity even now.Prints are dominated by geometric patterns, images of plants, flowers, birds and animals.

True Slavic fashion – chaste beauty and folk traditions

It is this fashion that is known for its bell skirts, felt boots, colorful scarves, A-line sundresses, fur coats, men's shirts made of linen and cotton with ties on the chest, jackets and a variety of both short and long vests with luxurious fur elements and trim.

The harsh Russian winter makes fur the king of fashion collections

And all this was actively decorated with embroidered threads and gold elements, decorated precious stones, beads and expensive fabrics (brocade, satin and velvet).

Russian jewelry can make a real queen out of any girl

India

An incredibly colorful and vibrant country. It contains not only a variety of clothes of women and men, but also their most famous spices. in their own way bright colors competes with the Russian one.

Indian ethnic wear is full of all the colors of the rainbow: pink, purple, red, gold, white, turquoise and orange.

Indian fashion has collected the richest colors

But, unlike many countries, each color in this country has its own meaning. The most popular pattern is paisley (“Indian paisley”), as well as a variety of geometric patterns, flowers and images of sacred animals. Since India is a fairly warm country, the most popular fabrics are linen, chiffon and silk.

Indian fashion is all about flowing fabrics, rich decorations and jewels

main feature- this is multi-layering. Like Egyptian fashion, Indian fashion also includes women's outfits over one shoulder. In this case, the piece of fabric that is worn on the shoulder is decorated the most. Often, all outfits for both women and men are elongated.

Indian classic outfit for women

Representatives of the stronger sex wear long jackets with buttons and long shirts.

Classic men's fashion in India

Indian fashion is a veritable rainbow of colours. At the same time, ethnic clothing does not make a clown out of a person, but gives grace and a certain mystery.

Africa

Roasts are known for their sand, coffee-milk, terracotta and white tones. To add some color accents, red, white and blue were sometimes added.

Africa is the scorching sun and bright outfits

African folk clothing is simply a treasure trove of numerous prints. It is almost impossible to find plain clothes in it: on each of them you will see a variety of designs and patterns - claws of animals, trees and stones, feathers and claws of birds.

African style is the most recognizable ethno-style in clothing and accessories

Women's ethnic or folk clothes are quite diverse: sundresses, shorts and skirts of various lengths, tunics, short tops, blouses and cardigans.

The African ethno-style of clothing and accessories attracts many women with its exoticism and originality, as well as a variety of variations.

Men's fashion in Africa involves wearing loose-fitting trousers and shorts, shirts with loose sleeves and jackets with various elements of drapery and decor: fringe, stones, cord weaving, wooden and metal objects.

African fashion for men

African ethnic style has its own charm. Lightweight fabrics, intricate patterns and accessories, which are made mainly from natural materials(amulets made of stones and fangs, various weaves of leather cords, wooden beads) have a certain magic and attractive primitiveness.

African style is the most exotic of all existing clothing styles.

Every fashionista has some things that bear the imprint of a particular culture in one way or another in her closet. There are a few simple recommendations that will allow you to combine modern trends with folklore accents:

• ethno style involves the use of those colors that are characteristic of a particular country or direction, for example: either the geometric patterns of Egypt, or bright floral Slavic prints;
• try not to combine some futuristic things with ethnic ones: pay attention to light fabrics and free, flowing lines;
• sometimes just one item is enough to embody an ethnic trend: a light sari or a floor-length sand sundress with bright beads will create a unique image and charm;
• accessories and shoes require special attention: woven leather and wooden sandals, open sandals and moccasins are popular, and among accessories - various decorations, which were inherent in a particular era.

The main feature of clothing in ethnic style is the use of natural fabrics, bright colors and contrasting combinations

Ethno does not lose its popularity. Famous world designers never cease to delight with new collections. Their clothing is inspired by Egyptian, Russian, Indian, Japanese, African and other cultures. Every year, at regular shows of world designers (John Galliano, Roberto Cavalli, etc.), new breathtaking ethnic clothing appears on the catwalks, which combines modern requirements and ancient traditions of a particular country.

Three Russian brands prove:

traditions can be fashionable

In India it is easy to meet a woman in a sari, but it is unlikely that you have ever seen a man in a kosovorotka or a girl in a kokoshnik in the center of Moscow. "National costume in Everyday life will look more extravagant than fashionable,” admits Natalya Loginova, head of the D3 Fashion and Design Center (All-Russian Museum of Decorative, Applied and Folk Arts). “But turning to tradition is one of the trends in modern design.”

Russian style is returning to the catwalks and to life. But, oddly enough, few people can explain what it is. “Khokhloma? Matryoshka dolls? Yes and no,” says Loginova. “Vladimir Pozner once said that Russian style is, first of all, audacity. And I agree with this. Our designers are daring. And in recent years, more and more of them have appeared in Russia, although fashion is not the easiest way to make money."

We talk about three Russian fashion brands. Some of our heroes already have a showroom in the center of Moscow. Some people only sell things online for now. But they all create in Russian. Boldly.

Embroidery, aprons, ancient motifs and a scientific approach

Svetlana Levadnaya, Levadnaja Details brand

“One woman saw our apron at the exhibition and immediately bought it. I tried to dissuade her,” says Svetlana Levadnaya. “Because it is not the cheapest thing, and not the most necessary in the 21st century. I was worried that my husband would not like such an expensive purchase... And he saw the apron and said: “Finally, you bought yourself something normal!”

"Russian is not yellow-red!" - says Svetlana. She is sure that most of our women suit muted colors

Things from Levadnaja Details are really not cheap: they are made only from natural fabrics (mainly silk, cashmere and Italian linen) and each has beaded embroidery and semiprecious stones, which takes at least a month self made. And not every girl can wear such clothes: try asking someone to tie an apron over their jeans or wear a kokoshnik with evening dress. “My clients are very strong and confident women,” says Svetlana. “The lost and confused do not come to us.”

Today, references to Russian folk costumes can already be seen both on the catwalk and at social events. Svetlana started her business in 2006 and says that back then they “looked at her like she was crazy.”

Svetlana Levadnaya

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The first skirt we made was knee length with a black velvet apron. And many people reacted to it like this: “God, what is this?” Everything national was unfashionable and incomprehensible. Sometimes I gave up - it seemed that this could not be changed

Svetlana Levadnaya

Designer Svetlana Levadnaya has never been a fashionista. But I have loved everything Russian since childhood. “When I was about nine years old, my mother ordered a blouse for me,” she recalls. “In a very Russian style, with embroidery, made of simple fabric. I remember that people on the street asked: “Where did you get this?”

Embroidery - business card brand. One item takes at least a month of handmade work

Svetlana was born and raised in Crimea, studied in Germany, and in 2004 moved to Moscow. She is a linguist, translator, and took on her own brand scientifically: she studied museum exhibits and collected a whole library about embroidery and folk costumes. Svetlana wanted to do fashion in Russian. And the prototype of her models is not the Pavlovo Posad shawls, which were created only at the end of the 18th century. These are ancient things, even pre-Christian (Svetlana does not like the word “pagan”). With embroidery, mantles (these are something like wide collars) and amulets.

Svetlana Levadnaya

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For our scarves, we take patterns from books and museum exhibits. In fact, these are not just patterns. Every symbol there means something. All our clients want to know what. But no one will ever translate this language, at most individual characters. If someone tells you that they have read everything, don’t believe it.

Svetlana Levadnaya

The original Russian costume is now commonly called peasant costume. Because since the time of Peter I, only ordinary people could wear it. Opening a window to Europe, the tsar forbade the wearing of Russian clothing at court. One can argue for a long time whether this decision was correct - we will never know what our life would have been like without that “Europeanization”. Svetlana calls that decree “an arrow to the very heart.” “The Russian costume was never just clothes,” she explains. “It was a saga written in patterns. It told about the human race, about his desires... Compared to what was, we are like a weak sprout next to a powerful tree. But I can at least do this."

Mantles - something like collars - can be worn with dresses and simple T-shirts

Starting your own brand is not easy. It’s even more difficult to start selling things that are not even close to the mass market - neither in versatility nor in price. Svetlana collected money bit by bit. And having sold the first dress (then, 12 years ago, it cost 3-4 thousand euros), she invested the entire amount in boxes: “Decent packaging is the first thing to do. It shows that the designer respects his work.” Then there was the first small showroom. Levadnaya tried to expand and move every year. Today she has a large showroom in the center of Moscow.

Svetlana does not sew herself. But he has been painting since the age of five. She created a special embroidery for her brand.

Svetlana Levadnaya

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Many people, when they see her, immediately say: “Are you an artist?” This is not handicraft embroidery, this is embroidery painting. Now we have about 570 samples of it. I created them with my own hands, and then trained the first masters. This is our business card

Svetlana Levadnaya

The Levadnaja Details team has 20 embroiderers and four seamstresses. The showroom presents samples made for models. But the items you like are tailored to each specific customer. “You’re just tiny, so everything is a little big for you,” Svetlana tells me as I try on a dress made of pale blue linen. “But it should fit loosely, we have almost no tight-fitting clothes. This is an everyday thing - a large bag and comfortable shoes. I don't have the nerves to wear heels." Another dress - dusty pink, floor-length, made of thick silk - looks more like an evening dress. All models have very simple styles: otherwise the embroidery and ornaments will look too flashy. And the colors are mostly muted , although there are also several bright models. “Slavic women do not suit a riot of colors,” explains Svetlana. “But clients from the Caucasus also find something for themselves, they just need to be chosen more carefully.”

In these clothes it’s easy to feel like a Russian beauty - regardless of nationality

Svetlana admits: her brand is more inclined towards art than commerce. Some of her clients say they would like to pass these things on to inheritance. “We have two categories of buyers. One is very wealthy, very independent women. And the second is women with average incomes who save for several months and then order,” she says. “They write to us from different cities of Russia, especially often from Siberia. Even if they don’t buy, they say: “Thank you for being there, we thought no one was doing this anymore.”

Svetlana is sure that most people have a distorted idea of ​​Russian style. And it’s important for her to show people: Russian clothes are beautiful. “I always say: Russian culture is five stars. And Russian fashion is high fashion,” she says. “When creating a thing, I always think: is this worthy of being considered a continuation of those traditions? It’s like I’m passing an exam every time.” .

Nina Samokhina, Secret Garden brand

“As a child, for some reason I was embarrassed to tell my mother that I wanted to sew. Once I bought lining fabric, green, with glitter - it seemed to me that the fabric was very beautiful, like silk,” says Nina Samokhina. “I secretly sewed myself a skirt for the New Year It turned out to be a complete mess, I never wore it. Mom says: “It’s a lining, they don’t make it from that, why didn’t you ask me?” let me buy it..."

Nina is just starting to work on her brand: so far she only had one large collection

Now Nina’s mother helps her daughter sew collections. And once she sewed and knitted clothes for her daughters. Once I remade an unsuccessful jacket that someone had given me: “The color wasn’t very good and the yoke was big. And my mother cut off the yoke, knitted a new one, sewed it on, made the lining from a rabbit... My sister later wore it. The jacket became a super hit, I still remember it ". Then in Soviet years and in the early 90s, everyone was altering something, and Nina’s grandmother even made flowers from silk at home - they wore them as brooches. “It looks like Gucci,” Nina laughs.

That unfortunate skirt did not stop Nina - she sewed throughout her childhood. But I went to study as an architect, and there was no time for models. In 2014, she moved from Minsk to Moscow and was planning to enter the British Higher School of Design to study illustration. At the same time, I was preparing for the wedding and decided to sew my own dress. Then she even wanted to open a wedding agency, but instead she founded the Secret Garden brand.

So far, Nina had only one large collection - her diploma collection. “I wanted to make it entirely out of outerwear, but the curator said that it would be better for it to be more diverse,” says Nina. Outerwear I decided to study because there is not enough of it. Our mass markets are mostly Spanish, they don’t quite understand what minus 20–25 degrees means.” That’s why Nina’s collection includes a velvet bomber jacket (it’s insulated and designed for temperatures down to 22 degrees), a hat-scarf (“I call it “perlina”), a beige raincoat (“Dana Scully in The X-Files wore a raincoat all the time - I thought she was so beautiful!”) and warm coats. One of them is made from mohair Soviet scarves: “I looked for them all over Moscow, and then selected them by color. Mohair has a long pile, when you grind it down, you then need to go through it with a needle and pull it out of the seams - then the seams will not be noticeable.”

Nina says that her models have motifs from the Soviet past, although she didn’t really see this past - she is only 28. But in her childhood there were grandmother’s chests, Soviet patterns and old albums. “We were playing cards with my grandmother - she was telling me something... So for me this is familiar and familiar, although I didn’t experience it myself.” And she also has in her head a “mix” from the film “Amelie” and the cartoon “Prostokvashino”. "The palette there is very mine. All the colors - deep green, for example - are just right. And my mother there is very French - these scarves, the little basket... But at the same time, the interiors, the walls - everything was painted, just like we had. The whole atmosphere “I’m a native Soviet, and my mother is such a sweetheart.”

Nina reflects all this “Soviet flair” in her clothes. Even the velvet bomber jacket, which looks very modern, refers to childhood memories: “It’s big, round, looks like a ball. It’s like in the winter as a child, when they put five sweaters on you, a fur coat, a hat, and they also hold your scarf from behind.” There are also Russian folk motifs in her clothes: for example, one coat was tailored on the basis of a Russian shirt. And in one of the prints there are motifs of Russian tiles: “Before, I thought it was a shame to draw something similar: can’t you come up with anything? But you still recycle it, add your own.”

Nina especially loves prints - she is also an illustrator. She had a mini collection of colorful shirts. For one of them, the girl collected and digitized a herbarium: the result was a print with leaves. “In Britain I was a bit of an alien. Everything there is usually laconic and architectural. But I wanted to do something funny. Although I understand that not all people are ready to wear it.” Nina had to give up “crazy retro shirts” with big bows: it turned out that for most of her friends this was too much. “I don’t want to go into “art” at all,” she says. “Clothing is a utilitarian item.”

Nina is an illustrator, and prints that she creates herself are important in her clothes

While Nina does not have her own production. She works at home, side by side (or rather, back to back) with her engineer husband, sometimes stopping for yoga. Nina has several jobs: her own brand does not yet bring in enough income, she has to take orders. She makes some of her clothes herself and some of them in local factories. Sometimes items from collections are made for a specific buyer, tailored to his figure. " A good option“The item fits well, it’s definitely sold, everyone is happy,” Nina smiles. “It’s not like I have a whole closet full and no money.” She also doesn’t have a showroom yet, all sales are through social networks and friends.

Now Nina sews to order Wedding Dress- the second in my life. She is also working on prints with cats and natural fur coats. “How do I see Russian style today?” Nina thinks. “It’s fur. Patterned. Warm. Fairy-tale. Ironic. With bright rich colors.” Sounds like a description of her future collections.

Furs, peacocks, fairy tales and hats for Russian winter

Natalya Khovanskaya and Nastya Vyaz, Tsar Bird brand

“How difficult it is with the sleeves,” I say, trying on a soul warmer - something like a jacket with gathers at the waist. Her sleeves “let out” the arms just below the elbows, but do not end, but hang down like ribbons. “They only seem uncomfortable from the outside,” says Nastya Vyaz. “You quickly get used to them,” adds Natalya Khovanskaya. “It’s as if you had a servant: at first it’s strange, and then - as if it’s the way it should be.” In these clothes you really want to straighten your back and look around in search of a servant. And then sit on three horses and go somewhere to eat pancakes with caviar.

The creation of a model begins with the fabric - as Natalya explains, it dictates the style

Natalya is a classic Russian beauty: blonde hair, braid, transparent Blue eyes. Nastya looks like a Bashkir or Japanese: “Although everyone in my family up to the fourth generation is either Russian or from Ukraine. I don’t know why I turned out like this!” And together they create clothes from Russian fairy tales.

As a child, Nastya went to kindergarten in a yellow blouse that looked like a tailcoat. Her mother sewed, wore hats, and watched tapes of every Fashion Week she could find with her daughter. At the age of eight, Natalya made herself a short green skirt from her mother’s favorite dress (she, of course, cursed terribly) and later continued to sew, but learned to be an economist. Nastya received a degree in physics, but worked as a stylist. Their brand was born when she began to select clothes for Natalia. “I realized that there is no adequate offer for those who suit Russian style,” she says. “These are either Pavlovo Posad scarves or dresses for half a million rubles. And we began to invent clothes ourselves.”

And then in London and Paris they started approaching girls and asking where they could buy this. “We jokingly said that we had our own brand, and people started asking for contacts,” says Natalya. So they joked that they founded Tsar Bird in 2017.

The girls wanted to “modernize” traditional Russian clothing, preserving its idea. At first, looking at soul warmers, fur mantles (similar to voluminous collars) and blouses, it is not very clear how and where they can be worn. But if you try it on, there will be no questions left. “When we created the mantle, I thought: God, what are we doing? Yes, it looks fabulous, but how practical will it be?” recalls Natalya. “And so I put on this mantle. And suddenly I understand how much I like it, how much I It’s comfortable. And for the first week I wore it without taking it off at all.” Natalya also wears in the cold season warm hats, similar to Russian kokoshniks: “We made them specially because we wanted to look beautiful both in winter and in summer.”

Now Nastya is mainly involved in design, and Natalya - in organization. Tsar Bird does not yet have its own production or showroom - things are sewn in factories and sold via the Internet. Most buyers are from Russia, but there are also some from abroad. The business is not yet profitable and does not even pay off, but, as Natalya says, according to all the canons, this is how it should be.

When creating the brand, Natalya and Anastasia saw their clients as women who took care of the house and children. But their clothes were more to the taste of actively working ladies, often with their own businesses. “It’s important for them to look beautiful and bright, but not to spend a lot of time on it,” explains Natalya. “And our things are self-sufficient, they don’t need to be supplemented with anything. You put on a dress, shoes, correct your makeup - and in a minute you’re ready to go out.” ". Tsar Bird also has male clients - they mainly sew shirts for them.

It’s hard to imagine yourself wearing these clothes at work or on the subway. But the girls explain: they want their clients to look bright every day

Doing something non-standard is always risky: you may not find your clients and go broke. But the girls are sure: if you create, then create something unique. “It’s pointless to sew pencil skirts and blouses,” says Natalya. “Everyone does it.” However, they also have a pencil skirt and a black blouse in their collection. I first put this blouse on backwards. “We always say: if you don’t know which way to put something on, then it’s definitely designer,” Natalya laughs.

Clothing in folk style or, as it is also mistakenly called, folk style.

Today there are such concepts as “folklore style”, folk style, ethno-folk, etc. But we would like to draw your attention to the fact that the word “folklore” is more related to the oral, verbal and musical creativity of the people. Folklore literally means “ folk wisdom“, and the concept of “folk” style in clothing developed as an erroneous understanding of Russian folk costume, the basis of which was the stage costume of folk ensembles, and not the traditional Russian folk costume!

The very concept of “folklore” has an indirect relationship to clothing.

We need to understand this difference well. Because the folk style is not what the modern Russian costume is in essence, but how they want to see us from the outside in modern world. Many researchers, ethnographers or reenactors contemptuously refer to folk costumes as “cranberry”. Especially cynical and bilious people call folk costumes or costumes of folk ensembles “Martian” costumes. But we do not consider the style of folk ensembles to be something unacceptable or offensive. Because modern Russian folklore costume was created for the stage, and when it is created without a hint of vulgarity or does not expose the body, it can be a bright and beautiful example of stage costume.

Often it is connoisseurs of the folk style who use patterns of household utensils or dishes such as “Gzhel” and “Khokhloma” to create prints on fabrics for sewing clothes. Of course, this looks kitsch and is inappropriate when creating a decent and full image Russian style, but suitable for folk style. Because, unfortunately, many people only know the “Khokhloma” and “Gzhel” patterns, and do not even suspect that this is not embroidery, but painting.

Dishes painted in the Gzhel style

Folk style implies only a shallow study of Russian costume and traditions, and the desire to shock or attract the public first of all. Folk style implies the presence of a viewer.

Folk style and folk style. Features and differences.

Clothing in folk style always transcends time and circumstances.

Folk style combines elements of national costumes of different nations. There is folk style in India, China, Japan, Mexico... Russia... But you cannot combine elements of costumes different cultures in one outfit: within the framework of folk style, you cannot dress up in a sari, kokoshnik and cowboy boots, it will be ridiculous, unless, of course, you are a hippie.
The folk style differs from the Russian style by its nationality and brightness. The designer of Russian costume and Russian style today is Valentina Averyanova. Russian style includes both folk costume and boyar costume, and folk costume represents the clothing of the common Russian people. An excellent example of Russian folk style is Valentino spring 2015:

We will talk not only about how to wear folk-style clothes correctly, but also what the modern concept means: clothes in folk style.
It is customary to sew folk-style outfits from natural fabrics in natural colors. Embroidery, all kinds of patterned fabrics, lace, and braid will come in very handy.

Folk style requires following traditions; folk style is a modern interpretation and reflection on the theme of folk costume.

In folk style, you can easily make an applique on clothes or a pattern from patches, in a patchwork style. Yes, this is typical for patchwork quilts, but we remind you that folk style implies such confusion and mixing different techniques, patterns and attributes. Geometric patterns fit perfectly within the folk style with the structure of the fabric. Beads, sequins, beads or floral motifs, especially in folk style - patterns with drawings of roses from Zhostovo trays.

If you want to emphasize your waist, a wide laced or leather belt will do. Folklore style will allow you to collect all the elements of Russian outfits in one look: sundresses, wide skirts, short fur coats. And in addition to them - large Pavlopasad shawls with tassels, accessories with Russian painting and wooden decorations.

Russian style national costume will emphasize a straight or trapezoidal silhouette. It will hide figure imperfections and will not hinder movement. Unfortunately, the folk style does not imply following the traditional cut of the Russian costume. To match the folk style, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the folk image, but it is not necessary to follow the cut. But if this is difficult for you, then you can simply complement a modern suit with details of a Russian costume, the main thing is their natural combination. Shoes will fit all kinds: in summer - ballet flats or shoes, in winter - boots or ankle boots. In everyday life, folk style is ideal for relaxation.

Each country has its own folklore traditions, but designers boldly use folk images to create original costumes. This is also a chance to preserve folk culture and the memory of our ancestors. A variety of natural jewelry, wooden beads, bracelets, and a variety of earrings are suitable for clothes of this style. Original outfits will help you attract attention, stand out from the crowd and emphasize your origin.
You can simply do many things yourself and save a little money. The main rule of folk style is not to mix clothes of different nationalities. There are holidays where the folk style of clothing is simply obligatory, but a wedding with a dress code is better to do it in the Russian style and take into account the origin of the bride and groom; if the ancestors are from a peasant environment, then you can make a bright and happy wedding with clothes in folklore/folk style, but if the ancestors were noble, then the Russian style and boyar costumes for the bride and groom are suitable.

There is absolutely no need to mix different directions in one image, even such a similar concept as ethno-style. Do not combine a boyar suit with kitsch, or a Russian headdress with a miniskirt - it looks vulgar, vulgar and inappropriate.

You should wear any clothes with pleasure, because a sincere smile and good mood will attract no less attention than a bright suit and defiant appearance. Comfortable clothes will give you confidence in your own irresistibility, and a folk costume will emphasize your love for your native country.