Types of metal processing for jewelry. P.4

Do you carry questionnaires? What about cuffs made of silver and rhodium plated? What do a Russian beauty in a kokoshnik and a Russian hallmark have in common? Interesting? Then let's turn to the small jewelry glossary. We will not go into the semantics of highly specialized terms, but from now on we will read jewelry tags without the help of a third-party “translator”.

Ankle bracelet is an ankle bracelet in the form of a thin chain.

Antique is a type of ancient cut of a precious stone: it is given a square or rectangular shape with convex sides and rounded edges. At the same time, the girdle, or narrow belt between the upper and lower parts (“crown” and “pavilion”, respectively) of a faceted stone is distinguished by its “cushion” (“cushion”) shape.

Guilloche is the name of an engraved geometric pattern made on metal and coated with transparent enamel.

Glider (or glider bracelet) is the name of an element of a watch bracelet; thin elongated link. A glider bracelet is a “chain” of links fastened with hinges or a spring.

Engraving - decorative processing jewelry; mechanical or manual method of cutting out a design or ornament.

Pearl cult. - cultured (artificially grown) pearls, produced by placing an artificial nucleus (a piece of mother-of-pearl or mantle) into the shell of a mollusk.

Freshwater pearls are pearls of river and lake mollusks.

Cabochon is a type of stone processing that involves a convex shape without edges.

Cameo is the name of a decorative element of jewelry with artistic carvings, for the manufacture of which a stone, coral or shell with a three-dimensional (figured) image is traditionally used.

Carat is a unit of mass (weight) of precious stones. A metric carat is 200 mg, an imperial carat is 205 mg.

Cuffs, cuff - (English caff - “cuff”) - ear decoration, which, unlike the usual earrings, can be located not only on the lobe, but also on other parts of the ear.

Marquise is the name of a stone cutting method that produces oval shape(“boat” or “spindle”) and tapering angular ends.

Studs (“studs”) are small earrings attached to the earlobe with a pin.

Rhodium plating is the name of the method of coating a product with a thin layer of rhodium (0.1-25 microns) in order to improve the protective and decorative properties (it allows you to increase their reflectivity, corrosion resistance, heat resistance, and ensure constant contact electrical conductivity).

Russian hallmark - a mark on a product made of precious metals(or alloys), which is issued by the State Assay Supervision Inspectorate. It is the following image: a female head in a kokoshnik and numbers showing how many grams of precious metal are contained in 1 kg of this alloy.

Trillion is a wedge type of stone cut, implying a triangular shape.

Filigree is the name of a decorative jewelry processing technique that allows you to create complex lace patterns from various types the thinnest wire.

Embossing is a manual or mechanized process of creating a relief image. Stamps or a hammer are used to obtain the image.

Blackening is the application of niello, which is a low-melting alloy of black color, to a piece of jewelry. Used to enhance the contrast of the image or give the decoration a “vintage” look.

Fianit - the name is formed by the abbreviation FIAN - Physical Institute of the USSR Academy of Sciences. It was there that scientists managed to obtain a modification of zirconium and hafnium oxide - a synthesized high-quality stone that can have different colors. Externally, cubic zirconia is closest to a diamond.

There are many techniques for processing materials for jewelry. Let's look at the main ones:

Nitriding– thermal coloring of metal in a gas environment. Used for decorating art and jewelry.

Allochromatic colors of stones

In some minerals, color is due to the radiation effect. The color change occurs as a result of disturbances in the crystal lattice caused by radiation.

Anodizing– electrochemical surface treatment of aluminum jewelry to obtain a transparent and durable oxide film, amenable to penetrating painting and polishing. As a result of anodizing, aluminum jewelry can be painted gold, silver and other colors.

Rolling– rolling metal ingots through rollers. Produced in a special mill. In this case, sheets, strips or rods of metal of the desired thickness and shape are obtained - round, oval, square, etc.

Drawing– one of the processes of procuring materials for the production of jewelry. A round ingot to a certain size is pulled through wire rollers, periodically annealed. The resulting wire is then pulled through the holes of the drawing boards to the desired diameter. Diamond filters are used to obtain thin gold wire.

Blueing– heating products in an alkaline solution or oil emulsion to form an oxide film of blue-violet, brown or reddish-brown color. In addition to protection against corrosion, bluing also plays a decorative role.

Galtovka– cleaning the surface of jewelry by rotating it in drums loaded with steel balls, leather scraps and sand or other abrasive materials.

Electrotype– replication of artistic products by electrolytic means, that is, by growing metal into forms (gypsum, wax, graphite), suspended in an electrolyte solution and exposed to electric current. When processing artistic products with electroplating, pure copper, zinc, and silver are used.

Glyptics (Greek gliptike, from glyph? - cut out)- the art of stone carving. The art of carving on semi-precious stones is one of the most ancient types of stone processing. What is valued here is not so much the stone itself as the skill of processing it. The glyptics technique involves placing a stone on a stone slab and then using iron chisels or sharp shards of large hard minerals to apply the desired design to it.

Deep etching– consists of obtaining various flat-relief images on metal jewelry by electrochemical processing.

Blind tack (crimped)- consists in the fact that the stone is fastened in a caste, without prongs, and a special fastening belt compresses the stone around its entire circumference.

bending- a simplified type of forging. It is performed by riveting bent elements of the workpiece.

High relief (French haut-relief – high relief) It is a sculptural image or ornament protruding on a flat surface by more than half the thickness of the depicted object.

Engraving– applying shallow patterns to the surface of jewelry and art products, costume jewelry made of metal, bone and other materials using gravers (steel cutters 100–120 cm long). There are two types of engraving on metal: under gloss (in which the recesses and surface part of the pattern are open for viewing), and underblack (when the engraved pattern is intended to be filled with niello). Bone engraving involves first making a drawing on a plate, then using an engraving needle (shiksel) to apply lines of varying depths.

Engraving can be: lined (the drawing is done with contour lines and strokes) and relief (when the background is selected and the details of the image are cut into relief).

Grisant setting- consists in the fact that the upper part of the caste is pressed tightly and the rim that holds the stone is finished with a fine notch (grisant).

Decorating jewelry– one of the jewelry production processes, the purpose of which is to give jewelry high aesthetic properties. Decoration methods: gilding, silvering, oxidation, anodizing, engraving, blackening, enamel application, embossing, etc.

Difovka (punch)– an ancient technique of cold processing of sheet metal with a thickness of no more than 2 mm. It is performed by striking the metal directly with a hammer, as a result of which it stretches, bends and takes on the desired shape.

Procurement of materials for making jewelry– one of the main processes in the production of jewelry, incl. decorations The quality of finished products largely depends on it. It is carried out by melting, rolling, drawing.

Setting stones– setting stones in jewelry plays an important role. The aesthetic value of the product largely depends on how the jeweler places the stone and the method of setting it.

The following fastening methods are distinguished:

• prong setting;
• crimson tack.

Punch setting means that the stone is not fixed into a separate frame (caste), but into the product itself; for this purpose, a hole is drilled on the surface of the product, the stone is inserted into it, and with a special cutter (“stihel”), metal particles are pushed along the rim onto the stone, on which a retaining rim is formed.

• Glue-based fastening is used for fastening plastic inserts, faceted glass stones, faceted pieces of white metal (marcasite), etc.;
• grisant setting;
• blind setting;
• fastening on pins with glue is used for fastening inserts made of pearls or coral, which, when fastened, do not have hollow holes in the grains;
• Setting in a mirror frame is used to enhance the shine of the stone. It is inserted into a mirror frame, that is, into a narrow polished metal rim (mirror) that surrounds the stone.

Grain– decorating individual elements of jewelry with center punches (soldered metal balls with a diameter of 0.5 to 3-4 mm). Used to decorate filigree products in combination with filigree.

Gilding– coating of jewelry made from less resistant metals with resistant ones to give the products an elegant look and protect them from corrosion. It is usually produced electrolytically. The process involves depositing a layer of metal from an aqueous salt solution on the surface of products. The product to be gilded is suspended in a bath filled with a solution of the deposited metal (electrolyte), a direct current is passed through the bath, and gold is released from the solution in the bath, which is deposited on the surface of the product. The gilding layer may vary depending on the type of jewelry and its purpose. For example, for earrings, brooches, medallions made of silver, the thickness of the gilding layer is 1 micron (a micron is 0.001 mm), for chains - 2 microns.

Inlay (lat. incrustatio)– jewelry made from pieces of various materials (bone, wood, mother-of-pearl, glass, stone, etc.) cut into the surface of the jewelry. Jewelry with inlays is made at enterprises by artists from Russian crafts.

Intarsia (Italian: intarsio)– polished wooden inlay, composed of multi-colored pieces of wood of various species.

Irisation– application of the thinnest layers of metal oxides, giving the effect of iridescent tarnish of the same type as that obtained from oil stains on water. Received its name from Lat. the words “iris” are the iris (eyes), since in terms of the color spectrum it is similar to rainbow colors, which are especially clearly visible on cracks and fractures of stones in sunlight. Agricola (1546) mentioned the idea of ​​irrization. In jewelry, iridescence is achieved by treating the surface of products with tin chloride vapor.

Forging– one of the oldest types of metal processing. It consists of plastic processing of metal by flattening with hammer blows, a press, bending, twisting, etc. There are two types of forging: with preheating of the workpiece and without heating (cold). Forging of ingots or blanks of precious metals is most often done in a cold state. From elements of forged blanks you can make any decoration: ring, earrings, brooch, etc.

Kratsovka– one of the types of finishing operations in the manufacture of jewelry, associated with surface treatment of products. Brushing is done with round brushes made of thin brass or steel wire on a rotary machine to give the product the necessary matte surface.

Prong setting– the most common type of fixing stones in a product. It is most often used when setting transparent precious and semi-precious stones. It shows off the mineral better and gives it more light than any other frame. The disadvantage is that the stone does not hold very securely in it. With a prong setting, the frame of the product has an oval or round shape with paws (prongs).

Casting– forming jewelry and costume jewelry from molten metal. There are several methods of artistic casting: casting products into one- or two-sided earthen molds using flasks (metal frames with high rectangular walls filled with molding sand); lost wax casting; in the chill mold (chill casting); in a metal split mold; into solid earthen molds, obtained by molding and subsequent melting of wax models (used when casting unique products of complex configurations), into shell molds, when the surface of the products is first coated with a silicate shell, ensuring the purity of the casting (precision casting).

Lost wax casting– the most progressive method of manufacturing thin-walled and complexly configured products from gold and silver alloys. To make jewelry using this method, alloys of 582 and 750 gold and 875 and 916 silver are used. A characteristic feature of lost wax casting is the use of special molds, auxiliary materials and forced filling of the casting cavity of the molds with liquid metal under the action of centrifugal forces and vacuum suction. This method makes it possible to significantly expand the range of jewelry and increase the production of products made from gold and silver alloys, as well as improve their quality.

Matting– treating the surface of metal jewelry with a jet of dry sand or an abrasive emulsion using sandblasting machines. Used as a decorative finish to obtain a fine-grained matte texture in combination with filigree.

Knurling– applying a relief pattern to a concentrically shaped product. The product blank is fixed on a lathe. As it rotates, it comes into contact with a steel wheel on which the corresponding pattern is engraved.

Notch- a method of obtaining a pattern by inlaying steel or ivory with silver, gold or copper. It consists of making recesses on the surface of the jewelry with a gravel and hammering in metal wire or plates of materials used for inlay.

Oxidation (patonation)– a method of accelerated formation of a natural oxide film on the surface of copper, silver jewelry by treating them with a mixture of sulfides, acids and other reagents.

Soldering– one of the processes in jewelry production. Soldering is carried out with special solders, which consist of metal alloys corresponding to the sample of the products being manufactured. The color of the solder should not differ from the color of the product. The most labor-intensive process is the manual soldering of chains, the links of which must be firmly connected to each other, carefully soldered, without gaps or traces of solder. Soldering of links is carried out on soldering machines using powdered solder of a complex composition. After soldering, the products are subjected to further processing - filing, cleaning, grinding, annealing if necessary, etc.

Sandblasting– finishing operation to give a rough surface to jewelry. Sandblasting is carried out with dry sand, which is directed onto the product under pressure from a nozzle (tapered conical nozzle).

Fuse– one of the operations in the jewelry production process. Its goal is to obtain an alloy of a certain sample. Melting of precious metals with alloy materials is carried out in graphite crucibles in electric furnaces, as well as in gas, oil and coke furnaces (gold and silver). Technically more advanced is the method of smelting in electric furnaces. First, refractory metals are melted, then low-melting ones are introduced. To obtain the corresponding blanks (in the form of strips or wires), molten metal is poured into heated steel or cast iron molds. The resulting ingots are forged with a special hammer to compact the metal structure and increase its ductility.

Polishing– a finishing operation in the production of artistic products, giving them gloss and mirror shine. The products are polished by hand using irons made of steel and hematite. Products that have the shape of bodies of revolution are polished on special machines using wheels made of cotton fabric using powders - crocus, tripoli. Electrolytic polishing and surface finishing of gold and silver products with diamond cutters are widely used.

Welding– connecting pieces of jewelry in the process of creating a mold. There are spot contact (capacitor) welding and microplasma welding.

By capacitor welding it is possible to obtain butt, spot and other types of joints of parts of small thicknesses of precious (gold, platinum, silver) and non-precious metals. For spot capacitor welding, for example, 583 gold alloy, cadmium bronze and copper, copper with a silver additive, copper and bronze containing a small amount of chromium (0.25-0.45%), zirconium (0. 03-0.08%) and titanium (0.04-0.08%).

Microplasma welding is performed on a special apparatus developed by the Institute of Electric Welding named after. E. O. Paton. Plasma is a mixture of electrically neutral gas molecules and electrically charged particles - electrons and ions. It can be obtained in various ways, the simplest and most common of which is heating the gas in an arc discharge. To prevent interaction of the weld pool and the heat-affected zone with the atmosphere, shielding gas is supplied through the nozzle. The shielding gases used (argon, helium, hydrogen, nitrogen and carbon dioxide), in addition to protecting the welded seam from oxidation, contribute to intense compression of the arc and obtain a stabilized device in the space of a small-diameter arc column.

Silvering– silver coating of metal products to give them an elegant look and protect them from corrosion. Silver plating is usually done electrolytically. The process consists of depositing a layer of metal from an aqueous solution of its salt on the surface of products. The product to be silvered is suspended in a bath filled with a solution of precipitated silver (electrolyte), a direct current is passed through the bath, and silver is released from the solution in the bath, which is deposited on the surface of the product. The silver layer may vary depending on the type of product.

Toreutics (Greek toruo – cut, mint)– the art of manual relief processing of artistic metal products – embossing, embossing, finishing of cast products. It originated in ancient times. The finest decorations, magnificently decorated cups and bowls, made of gold, silver, electra (a natural alloy of gold and silver), made several millennia BC, have reached us. e.

Coinage– obtaining a complex relief pattern on the surface of jewelry and art products made of metals. It is carried out in different ways: by depositing metal on a backing matrix; applying a flat-relief pattern with special stamps; free formation of relief on a plate lining made of rubber, lead, resin. To form a relief pattern in this case, a set of various tools is used, in the form of blunt chisels, which are placed between the hammer and the product.

Jewelry polishing– used to create a smooth surface of products. It is carried out using rotating grinding felt, felt or calico wheels and powders - pumice, emery.

Stamping (cutting, extrusion)– one of the main processes of mass production of jewelry. Stamping produces individual parts and entire products. It is carried out with steel stamps. Stamps are used to cut out flat products or blanks for further operations, and also produce hollow products from plates by drawing them. The drawing process consists of placing a plate of the metal being processed on a matrix and pressing it on top with a punch, as a result of which the plate bends and takes the shape of the matrix and the punch. Drawing dies engrave a design, which is pressed onto the products during the pressing process. Products of complex shapes are stamped in several stages on different dies with intermediate annealing to avoid overstressing the metal and breaking the workpieces. A progressive method of making wedding rings is to obtain them from blank washers. The washers are first annealed in a special thermal furnace at a temperature of 680 0 C and through several successive stamping operations on presses with dies of different shapes, a cylinder-shaped workpiece is obtained. This blank is then further processed on scoring and rolling machines. The resulting rings are calibrated according to the dimensions of the internal diameter, branded with the name of the enterprise, and hallmarked at the Assay Supervision Inspectorate, after which they are finally polished and glossed on a grinding machine.

Line setting– performed in rings and other inexpensive jewelry. It is carried out by lifting thin shavings from the body of the frame using a cutter; it holds the stone (but usually glass or plastic) in the caste.

Jewelry finishing is the final processing of the surface, bringing it to a marketable state. Finishing operations can be classified into three types: mechanical finishing - polishing, embossing, engraving: decorative and protective coatings - enameling, blackening; chemical treatment - oxidation and electroplating.

Polishing. The essence of the polishing process is to remove micro-irregularities from the metal surface, thereby achieving a high class of cleanliness and a mirror-like surface. Jewelry may be polished before oxidizing, before being coated with a layer of another metal. There are mainly two types of jewelry polishing: mechanical and electrochemical. Mechanical polishing is called piece-by-piece polishing of products with and without abrasive. Mass polishing methods - in drums and containers, despite the fact that they are actually also mechanical, are called galvanic and vibration processing.

Electrochemical polishing is the anodic etching of products in an electrolyte environment under the influence of electric current.

The species is called coinage artistic treatment metals with special stamping punches, as a result of which the workpiece takes on an incorrect image. The essence of the minting process is that as a result of the pressure applied to the mint (by the blow of a hammer), a mark will be left on the metal in the shape of the working part of the mint. The given design is knocked out by repeated blows of various stamps.

There are hand and machine embossing. Embossing is considered manual if the process of punching out the image is done manually. Machine embossing is a stamping operation carried out on presses using dies. Modern equipment makes it possible to obtain high-quality images, so stamping has significantly reduced the use of hand-chasing in the manufacture of jewelry. Embossing should be considered not as a type of artistic design, but as an independent type of product manufacturing, which occupies a large place in the artistic industry.

Engraving is a type of artistic processing of a product, which consists of cutting out a design on the product using strokes. In jewelry practice, manual two-dimensional (planar) engraving is used - a complex and labor-intensive process that requires great skill, endurance and concentration from the performer.

Enameling is one of the types of decorative processing of jewelry. Enamel is an easily fusible glass of complex composition, intended for fusing onto metal. The complex composition of the enamel is necessary for the strength of fusion with the metal. By chemical composition enamels are salts of silicic acid, and the components of the alloy are oxides of lead, silicon, potassium, barium, sodium, antimony and oxides of coloring metals. The color of enamels is very diverse and is achieved by introducing appropriate dyes into the alloy. There are enamels applied to products by firing.

Blackening - as one of the types of decorative processing of jewelry has been used for a long time. Products with niello discovered on the territory of our country. The essence of the blackening process is to apply a low-melting alloy of black color - black - to specified areas of the product. Silver jewelry is decorated with niello. Black is an alloy of sulfides of silver, copper, lead, and sulfur. In some recipes, lead can be replaced with tin and borax, aluminum chloride, and bismuth can be added to the alloy.

Oxidizing jewelry is designed to protect it from tarnishing. The essence of the oxidation process is to spray a chemically resistant protective film onto the surface of products, which makes it possible to increase their decorative qualities and corrosion resistance. Oxidation is carried out in two ways: chemical and electrochemical. A distinction is made between color oxidation and colorless passivation.

Electroplating - the process is the deposition of one metal onto another in an electrolyte environment. In the jewelry industry, gold, silver, and, less commonly, radium are used as electroplating coatings. The purpose of such coatings is to give products a certain decorative appearance and improve their mechanical characteristics. The processes of gilding and silvering have been known for a long time; irradiation has begun to be used in recent years.

Coatings obtained through the galvanization process are highly durable, and the process itself is economical. Solutions of salts and acids are used as electrolytes during galvanization.

The generally accepted classification of jewelry involves combining them into groups according to purpose (jewelry, souvenirs, etc.), material of manufacture, as well as the method of its use and decoration. Therefore, the description of the jewelry must contain the following elements:

1. Type of product.

2. Type of alloy or alloys. Weight of the precious metal.

3. Description of inserts with the results of gemological examination in accordance with CIBJO requirements.

4. Method and technique for manufacturing the product and description of its design.

5. Description of types of setting for diamonds, jewelry stones and pearls.

6. Description of types of locks and movable joints.

When classifying jewelry products, groups of goods made from different materials– jewelry (made of precious metals without the use of stones, products made of precious metals with natural jewelry stones, products made of gold and silver with synthetic stones). This is followed by such groups of goods as products made of nickel silver, jewelry haberdashery and, finally, stone-cutting products.

On the Russian jewelry market, according to their intended purpose, products are divided into the following groups:

· Personal jewelry

· Toilet items

· Smoking articles

· Writing instruments

· Table serving items

· Watches and souvenirs

The range of jewelry products has expanded in the last 15-20 years due to the emergence of “tray”, gift items, souvenirs and accessories of various club and company signs and badges, mobile phones, key chains and other items created in precious materials.

It is quite obvious that jewelry for various purposes, made from materials of different costs, also imply different ways and methods of their implementation. It is also clear that the cost of jewelry made individually, by hand, using complex types of gemstone setting and manual methods of artistic metal processing, is incomparably higher than the cost of mass production produced using a stamp or lost-wax casting.

Let us dwell on a more detailed description of such a group of jewelry as personal jewelry.

Ring- a piece of jewelry consisting of a shank (rim) and a shield (or without it), it has been known since ancient times. Initially, the ring served as a symbol that determined the social status of the owner, and also served as a tool for placing a mark (seal) on documents and property. In ancient Egypt, rings were known in the form of a drilled carved signet mounted on a wire rim that could be worn on the finger. In Rome, the ring also served as a sign of belonging to a noble family - the patricians.

The original meaning of the ring, as a symbol of power, is preserved today by the hierarchs of the Catholic Church (amethyst gems with images of a fisherman). This ring is included in the vestments of the Pope and archbishops.

Already in ancient times, among the peoples inhabiting the Mediterranean and the territories of the Near and Middle East, rings were used as jewelry. They were made of bronze, silver and gold, decorated with carvings, graining, enamel and colored stones. The shape and nature of the decorative decoration of the rings changed over time, and their symbolism became more complex.

Since the 12th century, engagement rings have become known, serving as a kind of material confirmation of the future union of love and family-marriage relationships. At the end of the 18th century in Russia, with the legislative registration of the ceremony of betrothal and wedding, wedding rings, worn during the Orthodox wedding ceremony on the ring finger of the right hand of the bride and groom, became widespread (for Catholics and Protestants, the ring is put on the finger of the left hand).

Among Muslim peoples, wearing a ring is absolutely mandatory for men. It’s not for nothing that wisdom says: any decoration Maybe be, but the ring Necessarily.

Historically, there have been several types of rings that retain their significance today. We list the main ones:

A traditional, sleek wedding ring symbolizing the eternity of marriage.

Ceremonial option wedding ring. Such a ring is often a shank that is even around the entire perimeter, decorated with calibrated diamonds or precious stones, identical in size and cut. This type of ring has become more and more widespread in recent decades.

Engagement ring. Its modern version involves decoration with diamonds, symbolizing the eternity and indestructible strength of the union, as well as the purity of thoughts and intentions of those entering into marriage.

An anniversary ring (Eternity ring) is given by a husband to his wife on the occasion of marital anniversaries.

A ring is a ring with a decorative shield, decorated in various ways, including pearls and jewelry stones. Its variety is the cocktail ring, which is a large ring with an elegantly decorated insert, often equipped with a large gemstone or stones.

Right-handed ring - a ring with a very wide, almost entire phalanx ring finger flat shank, richly decorated with small precious stones. It is worn in place of a wedding ring by unmarried women who want to emphasize their social and material independence.

Signet ring - a ring with a signet with a carved image on the shield. In the old days it was utilitarian in nature. It could depict the heraldic signs of the owner and his monogram. In the past, such rings were intended to seal letters and documents. The seal ring shield can be made of either stone or metal. In modern language there is also a simplified name for this type of ring - “signet”.

Earrings. Almost everywhere among the peoples of the world, earrings were known already in the 3rd-2nd millennium BC, and they were often worn not only by women, but also by men.

The classical antiquity of Greece and Rome presents a rich variety of their forms and decoration. In the ancient Black Sea region (IV century BC - IV century AD), gold earrings-discs with relief images of lion heads and griffins, as well as rosettes, sometimes colored with enamel, became widespread. Earrings with pendants - amphoriskas (images of miniature amphorae) are also known, and in the 3rd century - drop-shaped earrings with numerous colored glasses. There are earrings in both female and male burials, but male nomads only put an earring in their left ear.

One of the first mentions of wearing earrings in Rus' dates back to the 10th century. The famous Byzantine historian Leo the Deacon mentions an earring in the ear of the Kyiv prince Svyatoslav, decorated with a carbuncle (apparently a garnet or ruby) and two pearls.

Since the 17th century, earrings have become an integral part of Russian women's suit. Their ears were pierced at an early age.

Numerous beliefs, legends and customs have been associated with wearing earrings at different times. On this occasion, the magazine “Fashionable Light” wrote in 1897: “Just as noble Persians wore in their right ear Golden ring with pearls, in Athens boys had earrings in their right ears indicating their noble origin. On the contrary, in Rome only slaves wore a metal ring in the left ear, while free men They considered wearing earrings humiliating and a sign of effeminacy.” And the dictionary of V.I. Dahl contains an interesting proverb: “You can already see the slave: the earring is in his ear.”

But at the beginning of the 19th century, men apparently did not avoid earrings, because in the famous portrait of the hussar E.V. Davydova brushes O.A. Kiprensky carefully depicts a ring in his left ear.

To this day, people still believe that earrings improve vision. And ancient English chronicles claim that earrings supposedly save people during a shipwreck, hence the pirates’ addiction to wearing earrings.

Over time, the types, types of earrings and their decoration changed. The change in the nature of the toilet and the spread of short, cropped hairstyles in the 1920s and 1930s introduced miniature stud earrings, which were attached to the earlobe with a screw or pin. In the late 1930s, clip-on earrings appeared, which were held in place by a clip and did not require earlobe piercing. Advantageously, this type of earring is later used for costume jewelry.

The modern choice of earrings is rich and varied - from the first, miniature ones, worn immediately after ear piercing, to traditional roll earrings and gypsy rings, and the newly fashionable earrings with a whole stream of pendants in the form of chains, coins, “charms” and stones of all types of cuts and processing.

Since the late 80s, with the spread of piercings, young people and those prone to extravagance have different age groups began to decorate the ears, piercing not only the earlobe, but also the edge of the auricle. Often, various stud earrings are also used for these purposes.

Bracelet(French Bracelet - wrist) - a solid, detachable or composed of links or formed by a chain decoration, which is worn mainly on the wrist. This is one of the most ancient types of jewelry; The plate bracelets made of mammoth ivory, made more than 25 thousand years ago, date back to the Paleolithic era. Metal bracelets appeared in the 3rd millennium BC. Throughout history, they were made from a variety of materials - bronze, iron, glass, faience, silver, gold, and later, from the end of the 19th century, from platinum. The shape of the bracelets changed: flat, voluminous, figured - they are decorated with filigree, engraving, enamel, pearls and precious stones. The bracelets in the shape of a coiled snake, dating back to the Hellenistic era, kept in museums around the world are luxurious. The plasticity and finishing of gold bracelets from the Scythian Black Sea region are perfect. Bracelets sprinkled with pearls and colored stones in portraits created by Renaissance masters wisely and delicately emphasize the beauty of the female body. In the 17th century, paired pearl bracelets and bracelets with gems, the reverse side of which was decorated with enamel, came into fashion.

Initially, bracelets served as both women's and men's jewelry. Moreover, among the German warriors of the Middle Ages, the bracelet was a symbol of valor: the soldiers believed that it was able to protect them in battle.

Among the peoples of the East (Middle, Central and Southeast Asia), a bracelet is considered a symbol of health and happiness, and bracelets are worn on children as a protective amulet. In India, it is customary to give gold or glass bracelets on a wedding day.

The shape of the bracelets and the place they occupied on the hand changed over time. Although sometimes, following fashion, even European women decorated their ankles with bracelets and chains.

Watch. From the moment when, at the end of the 19th century, watches, which until then were worn by men on a side chain, and by ladies on their chests, migrated to the wrist, they began to be complemented by bracelets or straps made of leather, silk (usually rep), and later from synthetic materials. The shape and decorative decoration of watches, as well as bracelets for them, changed over time in the taste and style of the time. Not only companies specializing in the production of watch movements, but also famous jewelry brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpelz, Chanel began to manufacture watches. In recent years, watches have come to be seen as prestige jewelry. Cases of exclusive samples wristwatch Now they are made according to the designs of leading designers, complemented with precious stones, and their cost can reach up to 1 million euros.

Brooch- one of the oldest decorative elements in the costume of people of all times and peoples. The ancestor of the brooch was a fibula made of gold or silver, which was used to fasten the folds of the clothes of Greek matrons and the cloaks of Roman legionnaires. In the early Middle Ages, along with the ring, the fibula was the only decoration even for the most noble people. There were also paired brooches, which were used to fasten the cloak on the chest, or, according to German custom, on the shoulder. They were made of sheet metal and connected by a chain.

The era of late, or flaming Gothic, brought fashion for elegant brooches - with bright enamels; purple amethysts, red garnets and tourmalines and an abundance of pearls complete their decoration. But at that time, brooches were sewn onto clothes. They did not have a lock, which is obligatory in our understanding.

The loose and fluffy costume of the Renaissance made the brooch an indispensable detail. Brooches were worn by people of different classes - bronze cast brooches were sewn onto the clothes of the common people, and nobles and wealthy people ordered precious brooches from jewelers, who sewed them only on clothes, but also on hats.

The 17th century offers a wide variety of sew-on brooches. Brooches that had a utilitarian meaning also appeared in Europe. With their help, you could attach a collar, gather folds in clothes, or reduce the neckline of a dress. The introduction of such brooches into fashion is attributed to one of the court ladies of Louis XIII - Madame de Savigny, whose name has since been borne by this type of brooch. The front side of the brooches was decorated with rubies, emeralds, sapphires and pearls, and table-cut diamonds.

In the 18th century, diamond brooches appeared; brooches in the form of flower bouquets and bows were preferred. At the end of the century, brooches with enamel miniatures, stones and intaglios in a strict frame became widespread. Often, instead of them, ceramic cameos, which had become fashionable at that time, were used, created at the manufactories of English Wedgwood.

In the first half of the 19th century, with the revival of ancient manual goldsmithing techniques, interest in filigree brooches returned. In the 1830s, openwork cast iron brooches were sometimes worn with everyday clothing, and by the middle of the century, items with inexpensive stones, Florentine mosaics and small pearls became fashionable, although jewelry associated with court circles was marked by a new surge of luxury.

Brooches from the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries are elegant and varied in shape. The setting of the stone in them is light, airy, brought to perfection. During this period, a new type of brooch became fashionable, which implied the possibility of wearing it as a pendant. In addition to the usual lock, such brooches are also equipped with a loop for a chain.

Graphic and quite heavy diamond brooches in platinum from the 1920s-193s had a double or even triple lock for ease of wearing. Double brooches with a clip lock also appeared.

Modern fashion, with its fascination with “historical” motifs, has returned interest in almost all previously known types of this decoration.

Jewelry for the neck and chest is varied. In addition to brooches, these include a variety of pendants, pendants and chains.

Necklace(French collier - collar, necklace) is a piece of jewelry of complex design with a fixed central part, made up of jewelry stones fixed in a frame. Often the necklace has pendants. In the central part of the necklace, the decoration details are larger; on the sides, their size gradually decreases. The necklace ends with a lock, which is sometimes considered as an independent work of art.

Pendant– neck jewelry made of one large colored stone, pearl or diamond surrounded by smaller stones. The pendant is worn on a chain, cord or velvet ribbon. Nowadays, pendants are any pendant made of metal, stone, porcelain or ceramics.

Beads. For hundreds and even thousands of years in the history of civilization, beads have been in constant demand among peoples of all continents. They were made from a variety of materials - from animal bones and teeth - among people of primitive civilization, and later - from pearl beads, colored stones and various metals.

Currently, the most popular beads are made from cultured pearls, both classic strands and two-, three-, four- and even eight-row ones, sometimes intertwined into fancy strands and garlands. In the last five to six years, beads made of colored stones, made from simple, slightly polished pebbles, carved rosettes and balls of different sizes, have become fashionable. Fashionistas enjoy wearing beads made of coral, silver filigree beads and colored Florentine glass.

Chain, chain- this is a series of closed metal links threaded into one another. Sometimes their weaving forms a complex decorative pattern. Chains are used both independently and with pendants. Based on the nature of the links and their weaving, dozens of types of chains are distinguished - from anchor and armored to more complex - cord, Florentine, Milanese, ribbon and, finally, the most complex - foxtail and Venetian. According to the length of the chain, they are conventionally distinguished as follows - chains along the neck, about 40 cm long, are called chokers (choke - English to choke, squeeze), 50-60 cm - “morning”, chains with a length of 70 cm are called “opera”.

A modern chain can be either solid or lighter, hollow. Chains complemented with filigree elements, figured inserts and beads, pearls, and precious stone inserts are also fashionable.

Cufflinks. The demand for them is small, it is constantly revived when shirts with starched collars and cuffs come into fashion. By design, they can have one or two decorative shields with or without inserts of jewelry stones. Over the past 70-80 years, with the spread of women's shirt-cut blouses, this decoration began to be worn not only by men, but also by women.

Control questions

1. By what principles are jewelry classified?

2. Name the main groups of jewelry.

3. What types of jewelry and accessories are, in your opinion, most in demand among young people nowadays?

CLASSIFICATION AND ASSORTMENT

JEWELRY

Jewelry classification

The main feature of the classification of jewelry products is the purpose of a particular type of jewelry; additional features include methods of finishing the product, its design features, and the material from which it is made.

According to their purpose, jewelry products are classified into groups, subgroups and types.

All jewelry products can be divided into the following groups: jewelry for women, toiletry items, room decoration items, table setting items, watches and watch accessories, smoking items, souvenirs. Each group consists of several subgroups. Thus, the group of jewelry for women is classified into 12 subgroups: bracelets, necklaces, brooches, medallions, chains, beads, necklaces, earrings, buckles, pendants, rings, sets.

One subgroup also differs from the other in the purpose of the products included in it. For example, the subgroup of rings in the group of jewelry for women includes items worn on the fingers; in the subgroup of earrings - products that are worn in the ears; in the subgroup of beads, necklaces, chains - items worn around the neck, etc.

Each subgroup consists of species. A type is a piece of jewelry of one style, made of a certain material and having an independent article number. The number of types of jewelry amounts to thousands of items.

The general classification of jewelry products is presented in the diagram (Fig. 8).

According to the nature of the external decoration, jewelry for women (rings, brooches, earrings, bracelets, etc.) are further classified into: smooth; with various types of artistic processing without stones and other inserts; with various types of artistic processing with stones and inserts from other materials.

Smooth products can be solid or hollow. Hollow products, while maintaining the basic shape (for example, rings), usually cost less, since less material is spent on them.

Products with various types of artistic processing without stones are characterized by the use of such technological processing methods as engraving, stamping with a pattern, application of niello, enamel, and filigree. The same products with stones pass the above technological processes processing, but using all kinds of stones: precious, semi-precious, ornamental, synthetic, glass, plastic inserts and other materials.

Sometimes one product combines various artistic processing techniques, for example, filigree with an enamel pattern, artistic engraving of parts, niello and Dagestan embossing, etc.

According to the material used, jewelry can be classified into products made from gold, silver, platinum, palladium, combinations of these precious metals, anodized aluminum, cupronickel, brass, cast iron, bone and horn, papier-mâché, stone and other materials.

According to the design of the product, they are distinguished as follows: earrings - for pierced and non-pierced ears, each of these groups in turn is divided into movable, semi-movable and fixed earrings; powder compacts - bag and table, etc.

The proposed classification of jewelry products has been recently developed. The introduction of this classification allows for specialization of product groups in jewelry stores and at bases based on the main consumer characteristic, to make it easier for customers to choose the right goods and thereby promote

increase turnover, help merchandisers and sellers study the range of jewelry products. In addition, the introduction of the developed classification causes a fundamental change in the accepted procedure for placing an assortment of jewelry products in jewelry stores, bases and warehouses. Nowadays, product sections in many jewelry stores are organized randomly; The main one is the material from which the product is made. Since most jewelry products are made from a variety of materials, each section is actually universal in its range, which is extremely inconvenient for a buyer who comes to the store to buy a specific item.

Jewelry assortment

JEWELRY FOR WOMEN

These products are made from precious and base metals and other materials (bone, precious, semi-precious and ornamental stones and etc.). Products of this group made of base metals are commonly called jewelry and metal haberdashery in trade.

Earrings. From time immemorial, earrings have been one of the most beloved and widespread jewelry of women and girls. They were an integral and one of the main decorative details of women's clothing. From literary sources it is known, for example, that in the 16th century. It was almost impossible to meet a single woman, girl, or even girl whose ears were not adorned with earrings.

Before the invention of clip-on locks, earrings were made, as a rule, from precious metals - gold, silver and their alloys, which are not subject to oxidation. The appearance of clips made it possible to produce earrings not only from precious, but also from non-ferrous metals and their alloys (copper, brass, tombac, aluminum), processed accordingly - gold-plated, silver-plated, anodized, etc.

Earrings consist of a base (frame), a frame for a stone (caste), a bezel for the frame, overlays, pendants and a lock (Fig. 9). The base can be with a stamped, embossed or engraved pattern, smooth or with places for setting precious, semi-precious and ornamental stones, stamped and faceted glass, inserts made of plastic, enamel, bone, etc. There can be one or more frames for the stone (castes) ; various configurations and heights. Overlays can be smooth, embossed, stamped, filigree, various forms and sizes. Pendants are distinguished by shape and size.

Locks can be of different designs (Fig. 10): for pierced ears - complex, on hooks with a latch and free, on hooks with a loop, in the form of a bracket on a hinge, a screw with a nut; for unpierced ears - complex - in the form of a clamping screw

and a clip. A clamping screw is a design in which the main part of the earring - its frame - on the back side does not have a welt, but a blind solder with a platform adjacent to the front side of the earlobe. A bow is soldered to the frame; at its upper free end there is a miniature pin into which a screw rod is inserted. At the end of the rod there is a hemispherical cap, which, when screwed, tightly clamps the lobe between the free end of the bow and the solder joint of the earring frame.

The clip has the form of a latch, which, thanks to a spring device, tightly presses the earring to the earlobe, covering it from below. Clips come in a variety of configurations. Depending on the nature of the finish, there are smooth earrings with various types of artistic processing without stones and other inserts; with various types of artistic processing with stones and inserts from other materials. Depending on the design of the lock, earrings are

for pierced and unpierced ears, as well as fixed, semi-movable and movable.

The most widespread earrings are rolls, balls, hemispheres, hearts (hollow), gypsy (flat engraved), snake, knot, barrel, trefoil, asterisk

Earrings arrive at. sale and as independent jewelry as part of sets, which include, in addition to earrings, a brooch, pendant, necklace, ring, bracelet in various combinations. In this case, the earrings are designed in the same artistic and decorative style with the rest of the items included in the set.

Rings. The materials for making rings are: alloys of gold and silver, brass and other alloys; precious, semi-precious stones of various shapes and cuts, cut glass with and without amalgam, stamped stones without facets (cabochons), of different colors, sizes and various cut shapes. Rings can be smooth or with various inserts of precious, semi-precious stones, glass, plastic, etc. (Fig. 11).

The ring, depending on the shape and style, consists of the following parts (Fig. 12): a rim (shank), a frame for the stone (caste), a welt for the frame, overlays and a stone (insert).

The rim (shank) can be solid or hollow with a cross-section of different shapes: round, semicircular, rectangular, etc. On the outside, the rim can be smooth, with a chased or engraved pattern, with enamel, places for fastening

precious and semi-precious stones, stamped and cut glass, inserts made of plastic, amber, bone, etc.; the frame for the stone (castes) can be one or several, of various shapes, configurations and heights; welt for the frame - various shapes and sizes; overlays - smooth, embossed or engraved, stamped, filigree with places for attaching stones or glass of various shapes and sizes. Silver and base rings

valuable metals are in most cases coated with gold (gilded). The surface of the ring, in addition to gilding, can be subjected to oxidation or chemical coloring to match the color of gold and other colors.

During the manufacturing process, the rings are finished: ground, polished, and given a matte finish.

Rings with stones and inserts of other materials make up the most common and most diverse group of jewelry. Platinum is used as a setting for diamond rings. Against the background of platinum, diamonds have no yellow tint, which they receive against a background of gold; sometimes platinum is replaced with white gold. All types of natural precious, semi-precious and ornamental stones, synthetic stones, glass, etc. are used as inserts.

Ring sizes are determined by the ring shank diameter or number. Rings are produced in the following sizes (numbers, mm):

13 16 19 22 13,5 16,5 19,5 22,5

14 17 20 23 14,5 17,5 20,5 23,5

15 18 21 24 15,5 18,5 21,5 25

When selecting a ring, they either directly try it on the buyer’s finger or first set the desired size using a ring gauge (finger rings), and then select the ring of the desired size (Fig. 13). For convenience and quick selection of the ring of the required size, the number (size) of the ring is indicated on the bottom of the label.

Brooches. The brooch consists of a base, a frame for stones, overlays, figured wire parts, a pin and a lock (Fig. 14).

The base of the brooch can be smooth, filigree, in the form of a rim for a large stone, cameo or plastic insert, embossed, engraved, stamped with all kinds of holes or slots, with a filigree applied pattern, enamel, mosaic, etc.

The setting for the stone can be one or several, of various shapes and sizes. Overlays can be smooth, embossed or engraved, filigree, of various shapes and sizes.

Brooches can have a complex lock with or without a safety lock, or a wire lock in the form of a hook.

There are three types of locks for brooches (Fig. 15): ramrod, hinged, protecting against self-opening of pins and injections, and hook, with a spring pin.

A special type is a clip lock, which replaces a pin and is a spring clamp.

The materials for the metal part of the brooch are: gold, silver, brass, copper and other metals.

Brooches are also gilded. The shape of the brooch is determined by the artistic composition. The simplest shapes of brooches are round or oval.

Depending on the nature of the processing, brooches are distinguished as smooth, openwork, enamel, cameos, etc. (Fig. 16).

Smooth brooches are produced with various types of artistic processing without stones and other inserts, as well as with stones and inserts from other materials.

Openwork brooches are made from metal, bone, plastic, etc. Metal openwork brooches are produced by stamping

or by cutting out openwork, as well as filigree techniques; brooches made of bone, plastic and other ornamental materials - by carving and sawing openwork patterns.

Enamel brooches, depending on the technique of applying the enamel, are divided into brooches with painted enamel, with transparent translucent enamel, with cloisonné or champlevé.

Cameo brooches are bas-reliefs mainly depicting female heads. Cameos are cut by hand using special tools from stones of various types. Cameos are also made with pasted images. The setting for the stones is usually made of gold, silver or gilded brass in the form of a rim with a hinged pin. The cameos are secured in the rim with a blind setting. In some cases, the headbands are decorated with precious stones, pearls, filigree, etc.

Beads. Beads consist of beads, intermediate links, a lock and thread.

Beads can be of various sizes (one or different, gradually decreasing from the middle part in both directions towards the lock), shapes (round, oval, barrel-shaped, lamellar, curly), one or several colors. The surface of the beads can be smooth or with a pattern applied. Intermediate links are used to connect the thread to the lock. A lock fuse is a part that complements the lock and protects it from self-opening.

Beads are made from precious and base metals, various stones (pearls, amber, rock crystal, etc.), glass and plastic, bone, porcelain and other materials. Stamped, engraved designs applied to silver beads can be oxidized, chemically painted, gilded, filled with niello, or enamel.

Beads with through holes are strung on a thread made of nylon or silk, and solid beads without holes are connected with wire hooks.

Beads are distinguished by length: long (woven over the head) and short (in one or several threads, with a lock).

Monolithic beads made of glass, smalt, rock crystal, agate and semi-precious stones are made smooth or faceted. Holes in the beads are drilled with special drills.

Pearl beads are made from natural pearls (Kafim, oriental, river, etc.) and their imitations. Usually, pearls of the same shape are selected for one thread.

Amber beads consist of beads with a polished surface, spherical, oval or multifaceted, from raw amber of various shapes.

Bone, agate and wooden beads are turned on machines and are often decorated with carvings. Bone beads are made from mammoth, ivory, walrus and other bones; wooden beads - made of hard valuable species: ebony, boxwood, etc.

Plastic beads usually imitate amber, coral, bone and other beads.

Metal beads are hollow, openwork, etc. Metal beads are often covered with ornaments with decorative trim, electroplated with gold or silver. Openwork beads use filigree or stamping techniques and gold and silver finishing.

A necklace is a neck decoration whose parts are similar in size and design and are evenly distributed on the chain.

Necklace. A necklace differs from beads in that it has a larger decorative part in the center, ending on the sides with pieces of a thin chain that encircles the neck.

Necklaces are made from precious and base metals, decorated with inserts of precious, semi-precious and ornamental stones, bones and materials that imitate precious stones (glass, plastics, etc.). Individual elements necklaces can be various forms And decorative finishing.

In the central part there are usually larger stones, inserted into an artistic frame, or suspended on chains in the form of pendants. The necklace is fastened with a lock, often decorated with stones.

Medallions and pendants. The medallion is used for decoration, as well as for inserting photo miniatures or any other souvenirs into it (Fig. 17).

The pendant consists of a base, a ring attachment of the pendant to the chain, a pendant and a chain.

The base can be of various configurations, stamped, with a chased or engraved pattern, smooth or with places for fastening

overlays, inserts, pendants made of metal, stones, bone, mother-of-pearl, pendants with enamel, etc.

Pendants can be of different shapes and sizes (Fig. 18); for pendants, pearls, cameos made of corals, semi-precious stones and shells, miniatures on porcelain, bone, metal, round or oval plates with a relief or enamel image are often used.

Pendants come with various types of artistic processing (engraving, blackening, enamel, filigree, etc.) without stones and other inserts, with stones and inserts from other materials.

Chains. Depending on their purpose, chains consist of links of various shapes and sizes, a lock of different designs and a winding ring. Based on the type of links, armored, anchor, twisted, and fancy chains are distinguished; by purpose - side, lapel, wicker for pocket watches, pendants and medallions (neck).

Chains are made from gold, silver, brass and aluminum. Assembled chains made of silver and brass are electrolytically coated with gold or silver.

Anchor chains are products in which the links are located in mutually perpendicular planes.

Armor chains consist of links made not of round wire, but in the shape of an oval, slightly curved in space in the form of an unfinished figure eight.

Fancy chains, such as the foxtail chain, a complex, extremely elastic chain constructed from long double rings folded in half and threaded through each other. In cross-section, such a chain has a tetrahedral shape.

Pendant and medallion chains can be an independent decoration and serve for hanging a pendant, medallion, central part of a necklace, pendants, etc.

They also produce gold pendant chains, the so-called “gossamer” chains, the weight of which with a length of 460 mm barely reaches 1.5— 2 years

Some chains (platinum, gold, silver and some copper), made by hand or on machines, are assembled from soldered links. For chains made of tombac and aluminum produced on special chain machines, the links remain unsoldered.

Chains are usually fastened with specially designed clasps - a springel, a winding ring or a hook with a carabiner. In some cases, chains made of precious metals and used for hanging expensive, artistically made pendants, medallions, etc., have artistically designed locks - with engraving, a relief pattern, with some kind of colored insert set into it - stone or glass .

Headsets. An elegant decoration for women are sets, the individual items of which are made in the same artistic style. The set can consist of various types, for example, earrings and a ring; brooches, earrings and rings; bracelet and necklace; bracelet, pendant, ring and earrings.

Bracelets. Bracelets are selected according to the size of the hand. The bracelet consists of links, a lock with a figure eight or chain safety lock and hinges.

The bracelet link is stamped or handcrafted into various shapes and sizes. It may consist of several lugs connected by pins, depending on the width of the bracelet and the design. The surface of the ears can be smooth or patterned, with enamel or stones. The links can be connected with a pin or a chain (ring to ring).

The lock has a figure-of-eight fuse - a part that protects it from self-opening. The most commonly used are so-called schnapper type locks. The fuse in them is either a small chain, soldered at the ends to the two edges of the bracelet at the lock so that a hand fits into the open bracelet, or a so-called figure of eight wire, which is attached on a hinge to one end of the bracelet.

Bracelets (Fig. 19) are: hard (of two halves), soft (of links), with stones and inserts from other materials, hollow, filigree, armored, anchor and other fancy styles, as well as with enamel.

Rigid bracelets are closed, springy and hinged. In cross-section they have a round, twisted, rectangular or other shape. A special type of closed bracelets is made from silver or gold-plated wire; in this case, the kit includes several rings. Spring bracelets,

or wrists, are a cut ring made of an elastic strip of metal or a springy coil of several turns - a snake. Hinge bracelets consist of two halves connected by a hinge; They are most often made from hollow metal - blown. Closed and springy metal bracelets are usually polished, engraved or plated with gold, silver and niello.

Soft bracelets are divided into glider, chain and wicker. Glider bracelets consist of individual links - gliders, sometimes decorated with stones, amber or other ornamental materials, as well as enamel, niello, etc. The connection of gliders is of two types: hinged and springy, the latter ensures that the bracelet stretches in length. In some bracelets, the gliders are connected with an elastic band.

Chain bracelets consist of individual rings (links) different shapes, depending on the artistic composition of the bracelet. Links are either wire or stamped from sheet metal. Chain bracelets are divided into armored bracelets, which are the most common, anchor bracelets, etc. In armored bracelets, the shape of the links is oval, the links in places of greater curvature are inverted. The links of armor bracelets are made blown, usually from gold, silver or oxidized aluminum.

Woven bracelets are particularly elastic. They are made from individual gold wires on special machines or devices.

TOILET ITEMS

The range of toiletry items includes powder compacts, perfume bottles, handbags, caskets and boxes, mirrors in enamel frames, toiletries, pins for hats and ties, cufflinks and tie clips (cufflinks, pins and tie clips are used mainly as men's toiletry items ).

Powder compacts. Powder compacts consist of a body, a hinge, a welt, a mirror, a frame or latch, a mesh and a fluff.

The powder compact body consists of two lids connected by a hinge. The case can be with a stamped or engraved pattern, smooth or with places for fastening inserts, round, oval, square, rectangular or figured. The hinge is made with a spring and without a spring.

The mirror is mounted in the frame of the top cover, the welt is in the bottom cover of the powder compact, it secures the lids of the closed powder compact and keeps the powder from spilling out. A mesh stretched over the frame is inserted into the bottom cover and protects the powder from falling out. The lock ensures tight closure of the compact lids and protects them from self-opening.

Powder boxes are made from silver, brass, cupronickel, anodized aluminum, plastic, semi-precious stone, porcelain, crystal, papier-mâché and bone.

Depending on the nature of processing, powder compacts are: smooth, with various types of artistic processing without inserts and with inserts; depending on the place of use - bag and table. Tabletop powder compacts are made not only from metal, but also from porcelain, earthenware, crystal, glass, carved varnish, papier-mâché and other materials.

Perfume bottles. The bottles consist of a body, lug stopper and chain, intermediate link and ring.

Housings come in various shapes and sizes and consist of two halves welded together. The case can be with an engraved, relief or stamped design, with niello and enamel; a threaded plug closes the case hermetically, the ears are soldered to the case and serve to fasten the chain.

A chain of various shapes and sizes is connected by an intermediate link to a ring, which serves to hang the bottle (Fig. 20).

Perfume bottles are divided into table-top and bag-type bottles. Tabletop bottles are made mainly from crystal or glass; handbags - made of different metals: silver, brass, tombac, etc. with various decorative finishes.

Caskets and boxes. Boxes and boxes are used to store jewelry, powder, lipstick, cufflinks, etc.

Boxes and boxes made of papier-mâché with lacquer painting, silver or brass, with enamel, stone-cutting, and artistic cast iron are distinguished by their particular elegance. Round jasper toilet boxes often have relief decorations in the form of a cluster of berries on the lid.

Toilet fixtures. Toiletries made of silver, as well as varnished wood, are imported from Vietnam. The silver toiletry consists of a box containing a mirror, a brush and a bone comb; varnish - from a box, powder compact, brush and bone comb. Silver devices are decorated with embossing or engraving, lacquer ones with mother-of-pearl and painting.

Pins for hats. These pins are a pointed metal rod with a head made of various materials. Some pins have a safety that fits over the point. The rod has a length of up to 100 mm, one of its ends is tightly attached to the head, the other, pointed, sometimes has a thread for a fuse. Pins are made from steel, brass or silver wire. Silver and brass pins are often plated with gold. The rod must be elastic, the tip must have the shape of a regular cone and be sharp enough.

Tie clips and pins. Tie clips are made from precious and non-precious metals with various types of artistic processing, sometimes decorated with inserts of various faceted natural or artificial stones.

Tie pins are a good addition to the predominantly men's toilet; they are used instead of clips. They are usually made with a head made of various natural or artificial faceted stones.

Cufflinks. Cufflinks are made from precious and base metals. Cufflinks can be smooth, with various coatings and inserts.

A cuff cufflink consists of a rosette, or frame, a bridge, a stand or chain, a hinge, a hook, and a spring.

A shuttle is a part for threading the cufflink into the cuff loop and locking the cufflink into the cuff; the spring must ensure rotation of the shuttle and keep it in the closed position.

Cufflinks can be double-sided or in the form of a head with shuttles. Double-sided cuff cufflinks have posts on both ends similar to the shape of the head. One head is soldered tightly, the other is made bendable. It comes with a spring latch or on a chain, on a bending leg, on a hinge or a button.

Cuff cufflinks are finished with enamel, gilding, silvering, oxidation, etc. Depending on the nature of the finishing, cufflinks are: smooth, with artistic decoration without inserts, or with inserts.

ITEMS FOR ROOM DECORATION

The range of items for decorating a room is very large. This includes: vases for flowers (made of crystal framed in silver and other non-ferrous metals, made of non-ferrous metals with cloisonne enamel, made of semi-precious stone), small sculptures, boxes, caskets, wall decorations with mother-of-pearl, ivory lamps, stone and other products made from ornamental stones.

The main group of assortment for decorating a room consists of artistic stone-cutting and bone-carving products, artistic cast iron castings, metal products with cloisonné and smooth enamel, crystal in silver and cupronickel silver-plated frames.

Artistic stone-cutting products. These products are made from ornamental stones, which are divided into hard, medium-hard and soft (see page 36).

Flower vases, caskets, caskets, and small sculptures (a stone flower, a currant branch, based on Bazhov’s fairy tales, etc.) are made from ornamental hard and soft stones.

Artistic iron casting. Specific to Kasli casting is a matte surface of deep black color, which clearly reveals the silhouette in solid compositions and emphasizes the design in openwork sculptures.

The themes of the products produced at the Kasli and Kusinsky factories are the same, but the quality of the Kusinsky casting is lower than that of the Kaslinsky; The finish of the Kasli casting is velvety, while that of the Kusin casting is shiny.

Various figurines are produced using the method of artistic cast iron casting (Mistress of the Copper Mountain, Yuri Dolgoruky, Ermak).

Artwork made of bone. A wonderful decoration of the room is a variety of bone carvings, individual and group figurines of animals, birds, fish, flowers, a team of deer, dogs, ivory figurines, etc.

Lacquer art products. Lacquer papier-mâché products with artistic miniature paintings, produced in our villages of Palekh, Mstera, Kholuya, and Fedoskino, are well-deservedly famous not only in the USSR, but also in many other countries. The range of these products is very diverse: boxes of various sizes used for storing jewelry and other toiletries, powder compacts, cigarette cases, writing instruments, etc. These products are always successfully demonstrated at international exhibitions in which the USSR participates.

The creativity of the masters of Palekh, Mstera and Kholui takes its origins from icon painting. In their miniatures, the depiction of the landscape is somewhat conventional; the proportions of elongated human figures are distinguished by sophistication and sophistication.

The miniaturists of the village of Fedoskina love to copy the works of major Russian artists: Shishkin, Repin, Surikoz, Perov, Vasnetsov, etc.; works of contemporary Soviet artists are translated into miniatures: A. Gerasimov, Sokolov-Skal, Kulikov and others. But copies of the Fedoskinets are not only a blind copying in a reduced form of this or that painting. When copying, the master always brings his own to the miniature: sometimes, when the size of the thing requires it, he partially modifies the composition of the drawing, sometimes he changes the tones of the original or introduces new details into the composition. Thus, the unwritten laws of miniature are observed. Fedoskina's artists are also great masters of original creative compositions on various topics.

ITEMS FOR TABLE SERVING

The materials used to make these products are silver, cupronickel, gold (for gilding), crystal, enamels and varnishes.

According to the nature of the finish, products in this group are divided into smooth, with an engraved pattern, with niello, enamel (enamel-filigree and press-filigree), and with miniature painting.

The range of these products includes: spoons, knives, forks, glass holders, cups, tea and coffee sets, wine utensils, shot glasses, glasses, glasses, glasses, fruit vases, teapots, sugar scoops and tongs, cake spatulas, etc.

Items for table setting are sold not only one piece at a time, but also in sets of one name, for example, sets of spoons for 3, 6, 12 people, and of different names, for example, sets consisting of a knife, fork and spoon for 3, 6, 12 person, etc. Such sets are sold in specially made cases.

Products made from cupronickel are covered with a continuous layer of silver; the inner surface of the product can be coated with gold. The silver-plated surface can be matte, polished or brushed, the gilded surface can be polished or brushed.

The relief stamped designs are oxidized and cleaned to a light tone, the engraved designs are gilded. The thickness of the silvering layer of various products is approximately from 10 to 25 mk. If a product made of cupronickel is gilded, then before gilding a layer of silver from 7 to 10 is applied to it mk, thanks to which the product lasts for many years.

Spoons. All kinds of spoons related to jewelry are made from 875 silver or cupronickel with subsequent silver plating. They can be solidly stamped or soldered. The spoon consists of a head and a handle.

The head of the spoon can be round, oval, oval-blunted, of various sizes; on the inside it can be covered with gold.

The handle can be flat, round, twisted, with various engraved or stamped designs and covered with enamel or niello. The handle of the spoon, which has a relief pattern, is usually finished with oxidation; the surfaces free from the pattern are matted.

According to their purpose, spoons (Fig. 21) are divided into table spoons, dessert spoons, tea spoons, salt spoons, pouring spoons, tea spoons, jam spoons, children's spoons and coffee spoons.

Forks. The materials for making forks are silver, gold (for gilding), cupronickel, enamel and niello.

Forks can be one-piece stamped or composite. The main parts of the fork are the horns and the handle. The handle can be solid or hollow, in shape and finish - flat, round, twisted, with various engraved or stamped patterns, enamel, etc. Horns can be made of the same metal as the handle, or embedded in handles made of silver, cupronickel or other metal or material (bone, horn, plastic, wood).

Forks are divided into table forks, dessert forks, children's forks, fruit forks, and forks for special purposes (for fish, meat, etc.).

Knives. Knives are made from stainless steel, silver, cupronickel and other metals and materials. As a rule, stainless steel blades are inserted into handles made of silver, cupronickel, etc.

Knife handles can be smooth or finished with engraving, chasing, stamped or nielloed designs, as well as with enamel or oxidation. Pattern-free surfaces can be matted.

The range of knives is varied: they produce table knives, dessert knives, fruit knives, for bread, cutting roasts, cheese, spreading butter and caviar, etc.

Cup holders. To make glass holders, silver, tombac, cupronickel followed by silvering, enamel of various colors and shades, aluminum followed by anodizing and painting in gold color are used. The cup holder consists of a body, a tray and a handle.

The body must have the correct cylindrical shape, the internal size must correspond to a standard glass blown cup. The body can be with an engraved design, openwork cutouts, with a relief stamped design, with niello and enamel. The inner surface of all cup holders is gold-plated, polished or matte, the outer surface is matte.

Coasters made from tombac are made gilded, from cupronickel - silvered and gilded, from silver - gilded inside.

Relief stamped designs on the body and handle of silver (or silver-plated) cup holders are oxidized.

Tea and coffee sets, cups With saucers. Tea and coffee enamel and filigree sets for 1, 2, 6, 12 people are distinguished by great artistic skill. A tea set for two people consists of a glass holder, a cup and saucer, a sugar bowl, two rosettes, two teaspoons, a tea strainer and a lemon fork. Several designs for the services and enamel colors were approved. Individual cups and saucers with beautiful engraved designs are made mainly in Tallinn.

Table setting items also include cutlery, sugar bowls, candy bowls, salad bowls, coffee pots, milk jugs, etc. (Fig. 22).

Wine utensils, shot glasses, glasses, glasses. These products, unlike ordinary ones, are mostly bought as gifts in special cases. The materials used for their manufacture are silver, tombak, and gold (for gilding). Stacks, as a rule, have the shape of a regular truncated cone.

The wine device consists of a decanter, six glasses or shot glasses and a tray. Engraved drawings on the body of the decanters, tray,

stacks, glasses are gilded, oxidized, filled with niello; stamped designs - oxidized or filled with enamel.

External surfaces can be painted and artistic enamel, press filigree and enamel, with applied filigree and enamel; the internal surfaces are gilded.

Products made of crystal (lead glass) in silver or silver-plated cupronickel frame. These products (Fig. 23) serve not only for table setting, but also for decorating the room.

Crystal products in a silver frame consist of a blown crystal body and a silver (or cupronickel silver plated) frame.

Crystal cases and frames can have different shapes, styles and patterns. The outer surface of the frame can be smooth or with a chased, stamped, engraved or oxidized design.

Crystal cases used for reinforcement are finished with a diamond cut. Diamond face patterns are classified by numbers. The number of the diamond facet characterizes the degree of complexity of the depicted pattern: the higher the number of the diamond facet, the more complex the design.

Vases for flowers, sweets, and jam are made from crystal in a silver frame; salad bowls, salt shakers, wine and water decanters, ashtrays, etc. The bottom of the products must be flat. Crystal stoppers for decanters should be tightly ground to the neck of the decanter and not wobble.

WATCHES AND WATCH ACCESSORIES

The range of this group includes watches in cases made of precious metals with or without precious stones (see section “Watches”), bracelets and bead chains.

Watch bracelets. Watch bracelets (see Fig. 19) consist of the following main parts: clasps and links (gliders), stretchers in the middle or at the ends, or entirely of stretchers and a lock with a safety lock.

By design, the fastener can be in the form of two, three, four hooks (carabiners) soldered to a plate, in the form of a half-tube, hinged on a pin, or plate-shaped. Links (gliders) consist of several ears (depending on the width of the bracelet) connected by pins. The surface of the ears can be smooth or with a pattern. The lock safety (figure eight) complements the lock and protects it from opening. The hinge joint provides a movable and durable connection between the links and braces.

By shape, watch bracelets are distinguished with rectangular links, square, oval, shaped, in the form of an otlet (ribbon braided with wire), fancy, braided with stretch.

As a rule, watch bracelets are always soft, flexible, from a stretchable chain assembled from figured links with springs, and braided, consisting of two halves, each of which is equipped with a part of the lock. IN Lately they began to produce bracelets with two rigid spring halves (the so-called “crab”). They are attached to the watch with hook carabiners with a spring or tubular clips. Bracelets with carabiners are easy to put on and take off from watch lugs, and those with tubular clips are firmly secured. In most cases, braided watch bracelets are equipped with a movable lock, which serves to adjust the length of the bracelet and fix it on the hand.

The decorative finishing of chain and woven bracelets is distinguished by rigor and simplicity. Braided brass bracelets are chrome plated and then polished; Brass bracelets can be gilded or ungilded.

All styles of watch bracelets are approved by the artistic and technical council of NIIchasprom.

Side chains. These chains are used to attach the pocket watch to clothing (to the side of the vest). At one end of the bead chain there is a locking device, usually a carabiner hook, that is threaded through the lug of the watch. The other end of the chain ends with a special large springel, through which the chain is attached to the side of the vest.

The length of all side chains is the same (300 mm), the thickness varies. The dimensions of the side chains in the cross section do not have large fluctuations (from 4 to 6 mm).

WRITING SUPPLIES

Writing instruments with artistic decoration made of ornamental stone, silver or base metal include stands for pens, paperweights, glasses for pencils, fountain pens, pads and notepads with inlays and overlays, and leaf cutter knives. Below is a description of some items related to writing instruments.

Leaf cutter knives made mainly from plastic or bone. Two artistic overlays are sometimes attached to the handle of the knife. The surface of the knife blade can be smooth or patterned; the handle should fit the knife blade and be comfortable.

Metal overlays can be smooth, with an engraved, stamped niello or enamel pattern (with applied filigree or press filigree), solid, with all kinds of slots and holes.

Notepadsconsist consisting of a base, a lid, an inscription plate and a removable notepad. Such notebooks are used as gifts.

The base and lid can be covered with leather, lederin and other material. The plate, made of silver or base metal and attached to the lid, can be smooth, engraved, stamped with a niello pattern, or with an enamel pattern. The surface of the plate should not have marks, scratches or metal defects, its edges should not end with sharp edges or burrs.

The base and the lid should fit tightly to one another, both without a notebook and with an inserted notebook, and the leather or ice cream that is used to cover the base and lid should fit tightly to the walls and have no un-glued areas or traces of glue on the surface.

blotters just like notebooks, they are primarily gift items.

The blotter consists of a base, a lid, a cardboard insert with blotting paper, inscription plates and 4 legs (protrusions). The base and cover on the outside can be covered with leather or some other material. On the inside of the base and lid there are cardboard pockets, lined with silk on the front side and white paper on the inside. The cardboard insert is also covered with silk on the outside and paper on the inside. Blotting paper is inserted inside the cardboard insert. A silver or base metal plate attached to the lid can be smooth, with an engraved, stamped pattern, a niello pattern, or with enamel.

SMOKING ITEMS

Smoking items include: cigarette cases, portable tobacco, cigarette holders, ashtrays; lighters, match holders, smoking utensils, mouthpieces, boxes (for tobacco products).

Cigarette cases. To make cigarette cases, gold, silver, brass, aluminum, cupronickel, plastic, ornamental stones, glass, etc. are used. Beautiful cigarette cases are made from ornamental stone, precious wood, plastic and anodically oxidized aluminum painted the color of gold. The lids of the cigarette case are connected by a hinge on the axis and a lock. The cigarette case is closed using a lock placed inside and activated by pressing the insert connected to the lock. Inside the lids, rubber bands are attached to the ears, one of which is fixed in the upper part of the lower lid, the other in the lower part of the upper lid, or vice versa. Rubber bands hold the cigarettes in the cigarette case; for the same purpose, a device in the form of a spring plate - a clamp - is used. The lock springs in the hinge are flat; they must be elastic and reliably return the frame after pressing it and open the lid of the cigarette case.

Based on the nature of processing, cigarette cases are divided into stamped, engraved, enamel, niello, filigree, anodized and gold-colored.

The engraved or etched design of the top cover of the cigarette case must be finished with gilding and oxidation, and the relief stamped design must be finished with oxidation. The outer part of the lower lid of the cigarette case is matte, the inner surface of the lids and the surface of the brass parts are electrolytically gold-plated.

They also produce cigarette cases with lighters built into them.

Portable tobacco and cigarette holders. Portable tobacco bags and cigarette holders are mainly made from the same materials as cigarette cases and, accordingly, with the same type of processing.

Ashtrays. Ashtrays come in a variety of materials. Particularly beautiful is the assortment of ashtrays made of ornamental stones (eagle, jasper, etc.), made from a single piece of rock, with inserts (patterned stone) - a parachute ashtray, carved in the shape of a shell.

Ashtrays are also made from bone, using artistic cast iron (firewood, basket, boot, grape branch, etc.), from crystal with or without a frame, from various metals with artistic decoration.

Mouthpieces and match holders. Mouthpieces are made from silver, amber and bone.

Match holders serve as a case for a box of matches. They are desktop and pocket-sized. They are usually made from base metals with finishing: enamel, engraving, oxidation, painting in the color of gold and silver (anodized).

Smoking devices. Smoking devices as gift assortment are imported from Vietnam. They come in silver and lacquer. The silver smoking device includes: a cigarette holder, ashtrays (with porcelain insert) and a mouthpiece.

A lacquer smoking utensil consists of five items (a tray, an ashtray, a cigarette holder, two match holders, one of which is for used matches, or three items (a cigarette holder, an ashtray and a tray). Lacquer utensils can be inlaid with mother-of-pearl.

SOUVENIRS

A souvenir is a product that is purchased in memory of an event or a visit to a place (city, monument, etc.).

The range of souvenirs includes commemorative medals, badges and various items from other groups with a corresponding commemorative design or inscription.

Currently, in connection with the ever-growing tourism, both domestic and international, the organization of souvenir trade is becoming of great importance.

Commemorative medals. Commemorative medals are produced for the purpose of propaganda and perpetuation in artistic form of events in the political, social and scientific life of the country. Commemorative medals serve as decoration desks and in some cases walls.

In Russia, the minting of medals began under Peter I: a series of gold medals were issued dedicated to Russia's military victories. Under Catherine II, a series of medals were made in memory of various historical events.

In the USSR, commemorative medals began to be systematically issued in 1955. There are medals dedicated to V.I. Lenin,

A.S. Pushkin, N.G. Chernyshevsky, V.V. Mayakovsky, V.I. Chapaev, the centenary of the State Tretyakov Gallery, the VI World Festival of Youth and Students, cosmonauts, artists, etc.

The medals are made of bronze (in some cases gold) in the form of a disk, the front and back sides of which are decorated with relief images and corresponding inscriptions. Some types of medals are rectangular in shape (plaques). The medal sizes are varied: from 1 to 20 cm in diameter. Metal medals are mostly knocked out on special impact presses (minted); in some cases, minting is done hot. Medals are also made by casting using a wax model (the most ancient method in origin). By embossing you can get a finer relief than by casting.

Various types of holders and stands are used to display medals. Metal brackets or special wooden frames with a socket are used for mounting on walls. On the table, medals are placed on metal or wooden stands with a stop or displayed in open cases.

Lapel badges. Breast badges are made of silver, copper, brass with various decorative finishes (enamel, gold, oxidation).

Badges come in various shapes: round, oval, rectangular, shaped; decorated with emblems, various images, ornaments, etc.

Souvenir breast badges include badges issued as anniversary badges (dedicated to the anniversaries of the Great October Socialist Revolution, the 300th anniversary of the reunification of Ukraine with Russia and others memorable dates), to commemorate modern events (the launch of an artificial Earth satellite, astronaut flights, etc.), souvenirs - in memory of certain places - cities, monuments, theaters, etc.

Souvenirs also include various items from other groups of jewelry products that have a corresponding memorable design or inscription. For example, a silver or tombak glass holder, enamel-filigree with artistic execution on the enamel of various memorable places (The Bronze Horseman, Klodt's Horses, the Admiralty, the Kremlin, the Bolshoi Theater, the University, etc.). Similar commemorative images are made on other products: powder compacts, shot glasses, papier-mâché boxes, etc.