The history of the origin of the Russian national costume. Russian folk costume: history and modernity

National clothing is part of the culture of the people. It is formed depending on the climate, worldview and type of activity of people. Every nation should know its past and its traditions. In many countries, national clothing is used on holidays and at home, but in Russia very few people know how our ancestors dressed. When they talk about traditional clothing, most people imagine a woman in an embroidered shirt, kokoshnik and sundress. And most people are familiar with them only from photos. Folk costumes were actually very diverse. From them one could judge the social status of the owner, his age, marital status and occupation. Russia were different depending on the geographical location. For example, only in the north did they wear sundresses, and in the southern regions a poneva was worn over a shirt.

History of national Russian clothing

The folk costumes of Russia from the 18th century have been mainly studied. A lot of clothing has been preserved in museums, private collections and in ordinary ones. From works of art you can also find out what Russian folk costumes looked like. Pictures from old books give an idea of ​​the traditions and culture of the people. We learn about how our ancestors dressed earlier from fragmentary information from chronicles, from archaeological excavations or from fairy tales. Archaeologists piece by piece reconstruct not only the style and color of people’s clothing from burials, but also the composition of the fabric and

even embroidery and decorations. Scientists have found that until the 18th century, both peasants and boyars dressed the same, the differences were only in the richness of fabrics and decoration. Peter the Great forbade the boyars to wear folk clothing, and from that time on it remained only among ordinary people. In villages, the traditional one was widespread at the beginning of the 20th century, although people dressed up in it only on holidays.

What were clothes made of in Rus'?

Since ancient times in Rus', natural fabrics have been used to make costumes: cotton, linen, hemp linen or sheep wool cloth. They were painted with natural paints. In most, the most common color was red. Richer families made clothes from expensive imported fabrics, such as silk. In addition to fabrics, furs, sheepskin and leather were used. Woolen thread made from sheep and goat wool was also used for warm clothing. The Russian folk costume was very richly decorated. Designs on fabric and embroidery could be done with gold or silver thread, and the outfit could be trimmed with beads, precious stones or metal lace.

Features of national clothing in Russia

1. The outfit was multi-layered, especially for women. A wraparound blanket was put on the shirt, a “zapon” or apron on top, then an apron.

2. All clothes were loose-fitting. For convenience and freedom of movement, it was supplemented with rectangular or oblique inserts.

3. All costumes had a common mandatory element - a belt. This

The clothing piece was not only used to decorate or hold clothing. The ornaments on the belts served as a talisman.

4. All clothes, even everyday and work clothes, were decorated with embroidery. For our ancestors, it carried a sacred meaning and served as protection from embroidery. One could learn a lot about a person: his social status, age and belonging to a certain family.

5. Russian folk costumes were made from bright fabrics and richly decorated with braid, beads, embroidery, sequins or patterned inserts.

6. A mandatory element of both men's and women's clothing was a headdress. In some areas for married women it was multi-layered and weighed about 5 kilograms.

7. Each person had special ritual clothing, which was more richly decorated and embroidered. They tried not to wash it and wore it several times a year.

in different areas

Russia is a huge country, so in different regions people's clothing differed, often even significantly. This can be clearly seen in the ethnographic museum or in the photo. Folk costumes of the southern regions are more ancient. Their formation was influenced by Ukrainian and Belarusian traditions. And, despite the common features, in different areas they could differ in the color of embroidery, the style of the skirt or the features of the headdress.

The popular one in the south of Russia consisted of a canvas shirt, on which was put on a poneva - a swinging skirt. In some areas, instead of a poneva, they wore an andorak skirt - wide, gathered at the waist with braid or elastic. On top they put on a high apron and a cufflink. A wide belt was required. The headdress consisted of a high kiki and a magpie. The clothes were richly decorated with embroidery and patterned inserts. The brightest colors were used in the costumes of the Ryazan province, and Voronezh craftswomen embroidered their shirts with black patterns.

Folk women's clothing from other regions of Russia

Women's Russian costume in the middle zone and in the North consisted of a shirt, sundress and apron. Expensive overseas fabrics, such as silk, satin or brocade, were more often used to sew clothes there. The shirts were richly decorated with bright embroidery or patterned inserts. Sundresses could be sewn from oblique wedges, with a seam at the front, or from a single fabric. They had wide straps or a shoulder strap. They were decorated with braid, lace, and hanging buttons.

The headdress of women in these regions consisted of a kokoshnik and a scarf. They were often decorated with pearls or embroidered with beads. In the North, short shower jackets and long fur coats made of natural fur were also common. In different areas, craftswomen were famous for some kind of needlework. For example, in the Arkhangelsk province luxurious embroidery and lace were known, the Tver province was famous for the art of gold embroidery, and Simbirsk outfits were distinguished by a large, beautifully decorated kokoshnik.

Men's Russian costume

It was less diverse and hardly differed among residents of different regions. Its basis was a long, often knee-length, shirt. Its distinctive feature was a cutout on the neckline on the left edge, sometimes located obliquely. Such shirts were called "kosovorotka". But in many southern provinces there was a cutout

Direct.

The pants were most often narrow, they were sewn with a gusset for ease of movement. They did not have pockets or fasteners, and were held in place with a braid called a “gashnik”. Most often they were made of simple plain canvas fabric or thin wool with narrow stripes. In some areas, for example, among the Don Cossacks, wide red or blue trousers were common.

A mandatory element of a men's suit was a wide belt, which, in addition to its protective value, also had a practical application: various necessary little things were tied to it. In and in the North, vests worn over a shirt were also common. Men wore a soft cloth cap on their heads, and at a later time, a cap.

Folk shirt

This is the main element of clothing for all Russian people, regardless of gender, age or social status. The differences were mainly in the fabric from which it was made and in the richness of the decorations. For example, a children's shirt was most often made from an old

parents' clothes and had a minimum of embroidery. In many areas, children under 12 wore nothing but it. All Russian folk costumes necessarily included this item of clothing.

Features of the folk shirt

1. Its cut was simple, loose, and it consisted of straight parts. For convenience, a gusset was inserted under the arms.

2. The sleeves of the shirt were always long, often so long that they covered the fingers. Sometimes they were also too wide. In such cases, special bracelets were put on the wrists to support them.

3. All the shirts were long. For men, they often reached the knee and were worn over their pants, while for women they could reach the floor.

4. Women's shirts were often made from two parts. The upper one was made of more expensive fabric, richly decorated, and the lower one was simple and made of cheap homespun material. This was necessary so that it could be torn off and washed or replaced with another, since this part was more worn out.

5. Shirts were always richly decorated with embroidery. And this was done not only for decoration, these patterns protected a person from evil spirits and the evil eye. Therefore, embroidery was most often located along the hem, collar and cuffs. The chest part of the shirt was also covered with ornaments.

6. The man had a lot of shirts, for all occasions. The most elegant ones - ritual ones - were worn only a few times a year.

Sundress

This is the most common women's clothing in the middle zone and in the north of Rus'. They were worn until the 18th century in all classes, and after Peter’s reforms it remained only among the peasants. But in the village, until the mid-20th century, a sundress was the only elegant clothing.

It is believed that this item of clothing began to be worn in Rus' in the 14th century. At first, the sundress looked like a sleeveless dress, worn over the head. Later they became

more diverse. And in some areas, sundresses were a wide gathered skirt worn under the chest. They were made not only from homespun canvas, but also from brocade, satin or silk. Sundresses were trimmed with strips of colored fabric, braid and satin ribbon. Sometimes they were embroidered or decorated with appliqué.

Types of sundresses

1. Tunic-shaped blind oblique sundress. It was made from one piece of fabric folded in half. The neckline was cut along the fold, and several wedges were inserted from the sides. They were simple not only in cut: they were sewn from homespun fabric - canvas, thin cloth or wool. They were decorated along the hem, collar and armhole with pieces of bright red calico.

2. The swinging slanted sundress appeared later and became more common. It was sewn from 3-4 pieces of fabric and decorated with patterned inserts, satin ribbons and embroidery.

3. In recent centuries, a straight swing sundress has become popular. It was sewn from several straight pieces of light fabric. It looked like a skirt gathered at the chest with two narrow straps.

4. A less common type of sundress is a straight variety, but made from two parts: a skirt and a bodice.

What else did women wear in Rus'?

In the southern regions of Russia, instead of a sundress, they wore a poneva over a shirt. This is a skirt made from three panels of woolen fabric. They wove fabric at home, alternating wool and hemp thread. This created a pattern of cells on the fabric. Ponevas were decorated with fringe, tassels, sequins, and the younger the woman was, the more brightly her skirt was decorated. It was worn only by married women, and the figure in it did not seem as slender as in a sundress, since the shirt was often worn over the belt, which hid the waist line.

An apron was put on over the poneva, which was called a “curtain” or “zapon”. It was sewn from a straight piece of fabric, folded in half with a hole cut along the fold for the head. The apron was beautifully decorated, decorated with stripes of patterned fabric or braid.

In the cold season, they wore quilted jackets made of brocade or satin with a cotton lining and often trimmed with fur. In addition to fur coats, they wore “ponitok” - warm clothes made of cloth.

Embroidery on folk clothes

The people had a very strong belief in the power of Nature, in gods and spirits. Therefore, for protection, all things were decorated with embroidery. It was especially important for ritual holiday clothing. But the ordinary folk costume of Russia also had a lot of embroidery. Its pattern was most often located along the hem, collar and cuffs. Embroidery also covered the seams of clothing, sleeves and chest area. Most often, geometric figures, solar symbols, signs of earth, fertility, birds and animals were used. Most embroidery was on women's clothing. Moreover, it was located in tiers: along the hem there were symbols of earth, seeds and plants, most often in black, and the top of the clothing was decorated with images of birds, animals, the sun and stars, made with red threads.

Recently, more and more people have begun to talk about the revival of native traditions and Russian culture. And many people are interested in Russian folk costumes. Photos on the Internet increasingly show modern people in national clothes.

Men's clothing

Shirt-blouse

The basis of men's clothing was the shirt or undershirt. The first known Russian men's shirts (XVI-XVII centuries) had square gussets under the arms and triangular gussets on the sides of the belt. Shirts were made from linen and cotton fabrics, as well as silk. The wrist sleeves are narrow. The length of the sleeve probably depended on the purpose of the shirt. The collar was either absent (just a round neck), or in the form of a stand, round or quadrangular (“square”), with a base in the form of leather or birch bark, 2.5-4 cm high; fastened with a button. The presence of a collar implied a cut in the middle of the chest or on the left (kosovorotka), with buttons or ties.

In folk costume, the shirt was the outer garment, and in the costume of the nobility it was the underwear. At home the boyars wore maid shirt- it was always silk.

The colors of the shirts are different: most often white, blue and red. They were worn untucked and girded with a narrow belt. A lining was sewn onto the back and chest of the shirt, which was called background.

Zep is a type of pocket.

They were tucked into boots or onuchi with bast shoes. There's a diamond-shaped gusset in the step. A belt-gashnik is threaded into the upper part (from here cache- a bag behind the belt), a cord or rope for tying.

Outerwear

Zipun. Front and back view

Ports. Front and back view

Andrey Ryabushkin “Granted a fur coat from the royal shoulder.” 1902.

Over the shirt, men wore a zipun made from homemade cloth. Rich people wore a caftan over their zipun. Over the caftan, boyars and nobles wore a feryaz, or okhaben. In the summer, a single-row jacket was worn over the caftan. The peasant outerwear was the armyak.

Two main types of Russian women's costume - sarafan (northern) and ponyovny (southern) complexes:

• Zapona
• Privoloka is a sleeveless cape.

Outerwear

Women's outerwear was not belted and was buttoned from top to bottom. Women's outerwear was a long cloth opashen, with frequent buttons, decorated at the edges with silk or gold embroidery, and the long sleeves of the opashen hung, and the arms were threaded through special slits; all this was covered with soul warmers or padded warmers and fur coats. Telogreys, if worn over the head, were called overhead ones.

Noble women loved to wear fur coats- a female type of fur coat. The fur coat was similar to the summer coat, but differed from it in the shape of the sleeves. The decorative sleeves of the fur coat were long and folding. The arms were threaded through special slots under the sleeves. If a fur coat was worn in sleeves, then the sleeves were gathered into transverse gathers. A round fur collar was attached to the fur coat.

Women wore boots and shoes. Shoes were made from velvet, brocade, leather, initially with soft soles, and from the 16th century - with heels. The heel on women's shoes could reach 10 cm.

Fabrics

The main fabrics were: horse and linen, cloth, silk and velvet. Kindyak - lining fabric.

The clothes of the nobility were made from expensive imported fabrics: taffeta, damask (kufter), brocade (altabas and aksamite), velvet (regular, dug, gold), roads, obyar (moiré with a gold or silver pattern), satin, konovat, kurshit, kutnya (Bukhara half-wool fabric). Cotton fabrics (Chinese, calico), satin (later satin), calico. Motley is a fabric made of multi-colored threads (semi-silk or canvas).

Clothes colors

Fabrics of bright colors were used: green, crimson, lilac, blue, pink and variegated. Most often: white, blue and red.

Other colors found in the inventories of the Armory: scarlet, white, white grape, crimson, lingonberry, cornflower blue, cherry, clove, smoky, erebel, hot, yellow, grass, cinnamon, nettle, red-cherry, brick, azure, lemon, lemon Moscow paint, poppy, aspen, fiery, sand, praselen, ore yellow, sugar, gray, straw, light green, light brick, light gray, gray-hot, light tsenin, tausin (dark purple) , dark clove, dark gray, worm-like, saffron, valuable, forelock, dark lemon, dark nettle, dark purple.

Later black fabrics appeared. Since the end of the 17th century, black began to be considered a mourning color.

Decorations

Andrey Ryabushkin. A merchant's family in the 17th century. 1896
Large buttons on women's clothing; on men's clothing there are patches with two button sockets. Lace at the hem.

The cut of the clothing remains unchanged. The clothes of rich people are distinguished by a wealth of fabrics, embroidery, and decorations. They sewed along the edges of the clothes and along the hem lace- wide border made of colored fabric with embroidery.

The following decorations are used: buttons, stripes, removable necklace collars, sleeves, cufflinks. Cufflinks - buckle, clasp, forged plaque with precious stones. Arms, wrists - cuffs, a kind of bracelet.

All this was called an outfit, or the shell of a dress. Without decorations, clothes were called clean.

Buttons

Buttons were made from different materials, different shapes and sizes. The wooden (or other) base of the button was trimmed with taffeta, entwined, covered with gold thread, spun gold or silver, and trimmed with small pearls. During the reign of Alexei Mikhailovich, diamond buttons appeared.

Metal buttons were decorated with enamel, precious stones, and gold. Shapes of metal buttons: round, four- and octagonal, slotted, half-shaped, senchaty, twisted, pear-shaped, in the form of a cone, a lion's head, crucian carp, and others.

Klyapyshi is a type of button in the form of a bar or stick.

Patches

Stripes are transverse stripes according to the number of buttons, sometimes with ties in the form of tassels. Each patch had a buttonhole, so later the patches came to be called buttonholes. Until the 17th century, stripes were called samples.

The patches were made from braid three inches long and half or up to one inch wide. They were sewn on both sides of the clothing. The rich outfit has stripes made of gold fabrics. The braid of the stripes was decorated with patterns in the form of herbs, flowers, etc.

The stripes were placed on the chest to the waist. In some suits, stripes were placed along the entire length of the cut - to the hem, and along the holes - on the side cutouts. The stripes were placed at equal distances from each other or in groups.

Patches could be made in the form of knots - a special weaving of cord in the form of knots at the ends.

In the 17th century, Kyzylbash stripes were very popular. Kyzylbash masters lived in Moscow: master of patchwork Mamadaley Anatov, master of silk and weaving master Sheban Ivanov with 6 comrades. Having trained Russian masters, Mamadaley Anatov left Moscow in May 1662.

Necklace

Necklace - an elegant collar in clothes made of satin, velvet, brocade embroidered with pearls or stones, fastened to a caftan, fur coat, etc. The collar is stand-up or turn-down.

Other decorations

Accessories

The men's costume of the nobility was complemented by mittens with gauntlets. Mittens could have rich embroidery. Gloves (pepper sleeves) appeared in Rus' in the 16th century. A wicket bag was hung from the belt. On ceremonial occasions, a staff was held in the hand. The clothes were belted with a wide sash or belt. In the 17th century they began to often wear trump- high stand-up collar.

Flasks (flasks) were worn on a sling. The flask could contain a watch. The baldric is a gold chain sewn to a satin stripe.

Women wore fly- a scarf cut across the entire width of the fabric, sleeves (fur muffs) and a large amount of jewelry.

see also

Notes

Links

• // Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron: In 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional ones). - St. Petersburg. , 1890-1907.
• Russian weight buttons - classification, history, material, drawings and their magical meaning.
• Materials on the history of Russian clothing and the environment of folk life: in 4 volumes - St. Petersburg: Type. Imperial Academy of Sciences, 1881-1885. on the Runiverse website

Literature

1. Ancient clothing of the peoples of Eastern Europe. M., 1996
2. Pushkareva N. L. Women of ancient Rus'. M., “Thought”, I999
3. Ancient Rus'. Life and culture. Archeology. M.,"Science", 1997
4. Kud L.N. Costume and jewelry of an ancient Russian woman. Kiev, 1994
5. Braichevskaya E. A. Chronicle data about ancient Russian men's costume of the X-XIII centuries // In the book. Lands of Southern Rus' in the IX-XIV centuries. Kyiv, “Naukova Dumka”, 1995
6. Gilyarovskaya N. Russian historical costume for the stage. M.,-L., “Art”, 1945
7. On the routes from the Perm Land to Siberia: essays on the ethnography of the North Ural peasantry of the 17th-20th centuries. M.: Nauka, 1989. ISBN 5020099554
8. Ethnography of the Russian peasantry of Siberia. XVII-mid XIX century. M.: Nauka, 1981.
9. Ivan Zabelin."Home life of Russian tsars in the 16th and 17th centuries." Publishing house Transitbook. Moscow. 2005 ISBN 5-9578-2773-8
10. RUSSIAN FOLK CLOTHING in drawings by B. Gordeeva. M., 1974

see also

Wikimedia Foundation. 2010.

Russian national costume can be roughly divided into the costume of Kievan and North-Eastern Rus' of the 10th-14th centuries, the costume of Moscow Rus' of the 15th-17th centuries, and the folk costume of the 18th - early 20th centuries. In addition, in each time period one can distinguish a costume traditional for commoners and the outfits of noble persons. Before the adoption of Christianity, the clothing of the ancient Slavs showed features of the Scythian costume (shirts, trousers).

The main materials for clothing during this period were linen and wool. In the 10th century, under the influence of the new faith, silk tunics and basket cloaks with a red lining that came from Byzantium appeared in the costume of the princes and their entourage; tunics, dalmatics, and draped cloaks appeared in the wardrobe of their wives and daughters. The clothes of noble people were made from expensive imported fabrics and decorated with gold and silver embroidery, jewelry, and furs.

In the Peter the Great and subsequent eras, the costume of the nobility changed greatly and became no longer the Russian national costume, but a variety of the European one. Only in the peasant and partly merchant environment are the old traditions preserved. Men still wear shirts, ports, zipuns and caftans, and sheepskin coats. The women's costume remains virtually unchanged. The main women's clothing continues to be the shirt and sundress.

In different areas, different colors and methods of cutting sundresses were traditional. In the 18th century, they were sewn from canvas and calico in red or blue and decorated with a central vertical strip of ribbon, lace, and a row of buttons; the same ribbon was sewn along the bottom of the hem, at the top of the sundress, and sometimes under the chest. In the 19th century, sundresses were made from chintz, calico, satin, satin and other purchased fabrics, often not plain, but patterned, with the fabric gathered into small folds at the top. Such items of clothing as epancha, dushegreya, poneva and apron continue to be part of the women's costume.

The basis of women's folk costume of the 10th-14th centuries was a long shirt with long sleeves, decorated along the neck with embroidery or a strip of fabric in a contrasting color. The shirt was never worn just like that; a blanket, cufflink or bib was put on top. Poneva is a below-the-knee skirt consisting of three rectangular pieces of fabric connected at the waist with a belt. Ponevas were usually made from brightly colored fabric.

The zapona was a straight, sleeveless dress with a round neckline, with slits on the sides from the waist to the bottom. The cufflink was tied with a cord. A bib is an outer short dress with short sleeves and a round neckline, decorated along the hem and neck with embroidery or stripes of fabric of a different color. A woman's marital status could be judged by her headdress. Unmarried girls wore headbands or hoops, and married girls covered their heads with a warrior (something like a scarf) and an ubrus (a piece of long fabric that was tied around the head in a certain way).

Some innovations also appeared in women's costume of the 15th-17th centuries, although its basis was still a straight long shirt. A sundress is now worn over it - a type of dress with a straight bodice with straps and a flared skirt. Peasant women sew it from linen fabric, and noble girls from silk and brocade. A strip of wide braid or embroidered fabric of a contrasting color was sewn on the front of the sundress in the center from top to bottom. The sundress was belted under the chest. In addition, women's outerwear was dushegreya - short, swinging clothing with straps, with or without lining. The soul warmer was made from beautiful patterned fabrics and was additionally decorated with embroidered braid along the edges.

At that time, merchants' and boyars' daughters wore a letnik over their shirts - a long, straight-cut dress with wide sleeves, sewn to the elbow like a bell, and then simply hanging down almost to the floor. Several wedges were sewn into the sides of the dress, making the garment very wide at the bottom. The collar and hanging sleeves were richly decorated with pearls and embroidered with gold and silk. Warm outerwear was a long-sleeved fur coat. Telogrea was a long, swinging garment with folding sleeves, fastened with buttons or ties.

An important element of a woman's costume was the headdress. Girls do not cover their heads, but decorate their braids with colored ribbons and beads, and put hoops or crowns on their heads. Married women wear “kichkas” - headdresses consisting of a hoop, a cloth cover and a decorated backdrop. At the same time, the kokoshnik appeared - a headdress with a dense front part of various shapes, richly decorated with gold and silver embroidery, pearls and precious stones. The kokoshnik was tied at the back with wide ribbons, and sometimes precious pendants or beads fell from the front onto the forehead and temples. Thin beautiful fabrics could be attached to the back of the kokoshnik, which fell in folds to the waist, or even to the floor. In winter, noble ladies wore fur hats, like men's.

The traditional everyday clothing of commoners in the 10th-14th centuries were shirts and ports. Shirts were made from linen fabric of various colors or motley lengths below the hips with one-piece sleeves. They were worn untucked and tied at the waist with a colored cord or a narrow belt. On holidays, the shirt was complemented with embroidered sleeves and round collars.
Portas are men's pants that taper at the bottom and are tied at the waist with a drawstring. The traditional shoes of peasants (both men and women) were bast shoes; instead of socks in those days there were onuchi, strips of fabric that were tied around the feet and ankles. Men wore felt caps on their heads.

In the 15th-17th centuries, the everyday costume of peasants changed somewhat. Thus, the traditional cut at the neck of a man’s shirt moves from the center to the left side, and the shirt itself becomes shorter and receives the name “kosovorotka.” Swinging clothes fastened with buttons appeared: zipun and caftan. The zipun was a cloth dress above the knees, slightly wider at the bottom, with narrow sleeves and a butt clasp.

A caftan is a below-the-knee length outerwear with long sleeves and a high collar. The caftans of noble boyars were usually richly decorated with expensive fabrics, embroidery, braid or braid. Outer winter clothing was a long, swinging fur coat, with wide sleeves and a large collar, lined with sable, fox, hare, arctic fox, squirrel, and sheepskin. The top of the fur coat was usually covered with cloth (peasants used cloth for this, and boyars used expensive imported fabrics).

During this period, the costumes of the feudal nobility and peasants began to differ more and more, and not only in the quality of fabrics and decoration, but even in the cut of clothes. In the 15th-17th centuries, the wardrobe of noble persons included such items of clothing as feryaz and okhaben. Feryaz is a specially cut floor-length caftan with long sleeves, made of silk or velvet fabric. It was customary to put the feryaz on only one arm, strongly gathering the long sleeve, while the second hung freely behind almost to the floor.

Okhaben was also a type of caftan with a large square collar that hung down the back and long sleeves that tied at the back. This caftan was worn on the shoulders. Both of these items of clothing were completely unsuitable for performing any work and were intended only to emphasize the class affiliation of their owner.

Who wants to buy Russian shirts and Slavic dresses, take a look at the section -.

A folk costume is a traditional set of clothing characteristic of a particular area. It is distinguished by the peculiarities of its cut, compositional and plastic solution, texture and color of the fabric, the nature of the decor (motifs and techniques for making the ornament), as well as the composition of the costume and the way of wearing its various parts.

The creative source of the modern fashion designer is folk costume

The ways in which costume can be used as a source of innovation in clothing design can be varied. What is the attractive power of folk costume? Aesthetics, as well as functionality, expediency, rationality of cut and execution, and all this applies to any folk costume of any nationality. In the second half of the twentieth century, folk costume, its cut, ornament, and color combinations were widely used by fashion designers when designing Russian clothing. Even folklore and ethnic styles appear. Folk costume becomes the object of close study.

Folk costume is one of the oldest and most widespread types of folk decorative and applied art; it has a wealth of forms of expression, breadth and depth of cultural and artistic connections. The costume is a complete artistic ensemble of harmoniously coordinated items of clothing and accessories, shoes, headdress, hairstyle and makeup. The art of traditional costume organically combines various types of decorative creativity and uses a variety of materials.

The main fabrics used for folk peasant clothing were homespun canvas and wool of simple plain weave, and from the middle of the 19th century. - factory-made silk, satin, brocade with ornaments of lush flower garlands and bouquets, calico, chintz, satin, colored cashmere.

Women's shirts were made from straight panels of straight or homemade linen fabric. In the cut of many shirts, polyki were used - inserts that expand the upper part. The shape of the sleeves was different - straight or tapering towards the wrist, loose or gathered, with or without gussets, they were gathered under a narrow trim or under a wide cuff decorated with lace. In wedding or festive clothing there were shirts - long sleeves with sleeves up to two meters long, with wedges, without ruffles. When worn, such a sleeve was gathered in horizontal folds or had special slots - windows for passing the arms through. Shirts were decorated with embroidery using linen, silk, wool or gold threads. The pattern was located on the collar, shoulders, sleeves and hem.

Kosovorotka - Russian traditional men's shirt with a fastener on the chest shifted to the left, less often to the right. Images of a shirt with such a fastener date back to the 12th century. In the 1880s It was the kosovorotka that was used as the basis for the new military uniform in the Russian army, becoming the prototype of the future tunic.

Kosovorotka is an original Russian men's shirt with a fastener that was located asymmetrically: on the side (a shirt with an oblique collar), and not in the middle of the front. The collar is a tiny stand-up. Shirt motifs can be found not only in men's, but also in women's fashion. Linen blouses have traditionally been widely used in Russia in civilian life, being synonymous with the Russian men's shirt, and also as soldier's underwear. Among the ancient Slavs, the kosovorotka was the basis of any costume. It was made from homespun. Shirts with red checkered and striped fabric were found everywhere. They were working and festive, everything depended on the richness of the decoration.

Shirts were worn untucked, not tucked into trousers. They were belted with a silk corded belt or a woven wool belt. The belt could have tassels at the ends. The tie was located on the left side.

Kosovorotki were sewn from linen, silk, and satin. Sometimes they embroidered on the sleeves, hem, and collar. Indoors (in a tavern, shop, home, etc.) blouses were worn with a vest. It should be noted that it was the kosovorotka that was the basis for the emergence in 1880 of such an element of the uniform of the Russian army as the tunic.

The kosovorotki of ancient peasants were a structure of two panels that covered the back and chest and were connected at the shoulders by 4-angled pieces of fabric. All classes wore shirts of the same cut. The only difference was the quality of the fabric.

Women's shirts— unlike the men's blouse, the women's shirt could reach the hem of the sundress and was called a “stan.” There was even a style of women's shirt with gathered sleeves specifically for feeding babies. In Siberia, for example, a woman’s shirt was called “sleeves” because only the sleeves were visible from under the sundress. Women's shirts carried different meanings and were called everyday, holiday, mowing, fortune-telling, wedding and funeral. Women's shirts were made from homespun fabrics: linen, canvas, wool, hemp, hemp. A deep meaning was laid in the elements of decorating a woman’s shirt. Various symbols, horses, birds, the Tree of Life, lankas, plant patterns corresponded to various. Red shirts were from evil spirits and misfortunes.

Children's shirts— the first diaper for a newborn boy was his father’s shirt, the girl’s was her mother’s shirt. They tried to sew children's shirts from the fabric of their father's or mother's worn shirt. It was believed that the strength of the parents would protect the baby from damage and the evil eye. For boys and girls, the shirt looked the same with a toe-length linen blouse. Mothers always decorated their children's shirts with embroidery. All patterns had protective meanings. As soon as the children moved to a new stage, they were entitled to the first shirt made of new fabric. At three years old, first new shirt. At the age of 12, poneva for girls and pants for boys.

Kartuz— our country has a very rich history of dresses. If you go to a local history museum, you will certainly see how diverse clothing was in Rus'. The costumes were always bright and this is how they characterized our Russian soul. In the history of Russian “fashion” there was also such a headdress as a cap. Kartuz is a men's headdress with a visor. It was created for the summer from factory-made cloth, tights, corduroy, velvet, lined. Kartuz has been known since the 19th century. In the middle of the 19th century, it existed in villages and cities of the northern provinces of European Russia, but it became especially widespread in the provinces of Central Russia. The Russians in Siberia also knew about it. It appeared in Western Siberia in the first half of the 19th century. Numerous regulatory decrees were adopted, defining the clothing of not only military, but also civilian officials. The shape, color, and finishing of the headdress were specified in detail. The cap was similar in shape to a cap, but did not have distinctive signs indicating affiliation with a particular department.

They were sewn with a flat round top on a high (about 5 - 8 cm) standing band with a wide hard visor above the forehead. The visors could be semicircular, inclined or long straight; they were covered with leather or the fabric from which the entire headdress was made. The festive caps of young people were decorated above the visor along the band with ribbons, laces with buttons, beaded pendants, artificial and fresh flowers. There was a special cap fabric, but it was used not for hats, but for fuses in artillery shells. The cap was worn by village landowners, managers and retired officials.

Sundress— . Known among peasants since the 14th century. In the most common version of the cut, a wide panel of fabric was gathered in small folds - with a clothespin under a narrow bodice with straps. The differences in cut, woven fabrics used and their color in different regions of Russia are very great. As a category of Russian women's clothing, it is familiar to contemporaries not only in Russia. The first mention of it in the Nikon Chronicle dates back to 1376. The shapes and styles of making sundresses changed from century to century, from north to south, from peasant women to noble women. The fashion for them never passed; it only left its mark in the decor and ways of wearing them. A sundress is a long dress with straps, worn over a shirt or on a naked body, and has been considered a Russian women's costume from time immemorial.

The sundress was worn both as casual and festive clothing (worn for folk festivals and wedding celebrations). A girl of marriageable age was supposed to have up to 10 sundresses of different colors in her dowry. Representatives of the wealthy classes and nobility sewed rich sundresses from expensive overseas fabrics (velvet, silk, etc.) brought from Persia, Turkey, and Italy. It was decorated with embroidery, braid and lace. Such a sundress emphasized the social position of the hostess.

Russian sundresses consisted of many elements, so they were very heavy, especially festive ones. Slanted sundresses were made from “hair” - sheep’s wool woven black with a decoction of alder and oak. There was a difference between holiday and weekday sundresses. Festive ones for every day were decorated along the hem with “chitan” (“gaitan”, “gaitanchik”) - a 1 cm thin homemade braid made of red wool. The top was decorated with a strip of velvet. However, not only woolen sundresses were worn every day. Like light, home-style clothing, “sayan” is straight made of satin, gathered into a small fold along the back and sides. Young people wore “red” or “burgundy” sayans, and older ones wore blue and black ones.

Kokoshnik- the name “kokoshnik” comes from the ancient Slavic “kokosh”, which meant chicken and rooster. A characteristic feature of the kokoshnik is the comb, the shape of which was different in different provinces. Kokoshniks were made on a solid base, decorated on top with brocade, braid, beads, beads, pearls, and for the richest - with precious stones. Kokoshnik is an ancient Russian headdress in the form of a fan or a round shield around the head. Kichka and magpie were worn only by married women, and kokoshnik - even by unmarried women.

Only a married woman could wear a kokoshnik; girls had their own headdress - a magpie. They called it that because the scarf had a kind of tail and two wings. Probably, it was the magpie that became the prototype of today's bandana. A characteristic feature of the kokoshnik is the comb, the shape of which was different in different provinces. For example, in the Pskov, Kostroma, Nizhny Novgorod, Saratov and Vladimir lands, kokoshniks resembled an arrowhead in shape. In the Simbirsk province, women wore kokoshniks with a crescent shape. In other places, headdresses similar to kokoshniks were called “heel”, “tilt”, “golden head”, “rogachka”, “kokuy”, or, for example, “magpie”.

Kokoshniks were considered a great family value. Peasants carefully kept kokoshniks, passed them on by inheritance, they were often used by several generations and were an indispensable part of the dowry of a wealthy bride. Kokoshniks were usually made by professional craftswomen, sold in village shops, city stores, at fairs, or made to order. The shapes of kokoshniks are extremely unique and original.

The kokoshnik was not only a woman’s adornment, but also her amulet. It was embroidered with various ornamental amulets and symbols of marital fidelity and fertility. The ornament of the headband of the kokoshnik necessarily consisted of three parts. A braid - a metal ribbon - outlines it along the edges, and inside each part an ornament - a talisman - is embroidered with a “gimp” (twisted wire). In the center there is a stylized “frog” - a sign of fertility, on the sides - S-shaped figures of swans - symbols of marital fidelity. The back of the kokoshnik was embroidered especially richly: the stylized bush symbolized the tree of life, each branch of which represented a new generation; a pair of birds was often located above the branches, a symbol of the connection between earth and sky and the mating couple; in the birds’ legs there were seeds and fruits.

The kokoshnik was considered a festive and even wedding headdress. In the Simbirsk province, it was first worn on the wedding day, and then worn on major holidays until the birth of the first child. Kokoshniks were made in cities, in large villages and monasteries by special kokoshnik craftswomen. They embroidered expensive fabric with gold, silver and pearls, and then stretched it onto a solid (birch bark, later cardboard) base. The kokoshnik had a fabric bottom. The lower edge of the kokoshnik was often trimmed with under-bottoms - a net of pearls, and on the sides, above the temples, Ryasna was attached - strands of pearl beads falling low on the shoulders. Later kokoshniks in the form of a cap are simply decorated with a beautiful ornament of wedding symbols “grapes and roses”, which appeared in embroidery under the influence of urban fashion, and personified in the popular consciousness “a sweet berry and a scarlet flower”.

Clothes were of great value; they were not lost or thrown away, but were very carefully taken care of, repeatedly altered and worn until they were completely worn out.

The poor man's festive attire was passed from parents to children. The nobility sought to ensure that her costume differed from the clothing of commoners.

The life of a common man was not easy. Hard work from dawn to dusk in the field, caring for the harvest, pets. But when the long-awaited holiday arrived, people seemed to be transformed, putting on the best, most beautiful clothes. She could tell a lot about the marital status and age of her owner. So in the southern regions of our country, all children under 12 years old wore only long shirts.
Festive clothes were stored in chests.

In the ornaments you can see the image of the sun, stars, the Tree of Life with birds on the branches, flowers, figures of people and animals. Such a symbolic ornament connected a person with the surrounding nature, with the wonderful world of legends and myths.

Russian folk clothing has a centuries-old history. Its general character, which has developed in the everyday life of many generations, corresponds to the appearance, lifestyle, geographical location and nature of the work of the people. Starting from the 18th century, the northern part of Russia found itself apart from the developing centers and therefore the traditional features of folk life and clothing were much more fully preserved here, while to the south (Ryazan, Orel, Kursk, Kaluga) Russian folk costume received noticeable development.

Details varied in color and texture, but perfectly matched to each other, created an outfit that seemed to complement the harsh nature of the region, coloring it with bright colors. All the costumes were different from each other, but at the same time they had common features:
- straight silhouette of the product and sleeves, widened towards the bottom;
- the predominance of symmetrical compositions with the rhythm of rounded lines in details and decoration;
- use of decorative patterned fabrics with the effect of gold and silver, finishing with embroidery, fabric of a different color, fur.

Old Russian clothing had its own characteristics: some types of clothing had sleeves longer than the arms. They were usually collected in small folds. And if you let your sleeves down, it was almost impossible to work.

Therefore, they say about bad work that it was done “carelessly.” Very rich people wore such dresses. Those who were poorer wore short dresses, better suited for walking and working.

As always, the people remained faithful to their ancient clothes, and the upper classes exchanged or mixed their clothes with European style, especially during the time of Peter I.

In the 16th century, men began to wear a shirt with a narrow collar, long trousers, wide at the top, gathered with braid. The caftan was narrow, like a cover, reaching to the knees and equipped with sleeves. Under Peter I, trousers made of silk, canvas or cloth were used, which were tucked into boots. Peter I forced the long caftan to be shortened. For those who did not want to do this voluntarily, according to the royal decree, the soldiers cut off the floors. In the 16th and 17th centuries, noble women wore a shirt, the sleeves of which were wide and baggy at the top and tapered downwards, then a caftan, which was made wider than a man's, was fastened along the entire length with silver buttons. This caftan was belted with a shawl.

Russian folk clothing reflects the soul of the people and their idea of ​​beauty.

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All peoples of the world have their own. Russian began to take shape in the 5th century on the basis of elements of the costume of the ancient Rus - inhabitants of Eastern Europe, the common ancestors of the Slavic peoples. The decoration of the Russians was distinctive, had its own characteristics and corresponded to the way of life of the people.

The traditional costume, widespread over a vast territory of Russia, is quite diverse, especially. Each region had its own characteristic elements in clothing, unique only to that province. The clothes of the elderly woman were different from those of the girl; on weekdays they wore one robe, on holidays they wore completely different outfits.

Peasant clothing

It was possible to distinguish four sets of women's attire: with a paneva, a sundress, an andarak skirt, and a kubelka. Paneva is the oldest element of women's clothing, a set with paneva was formed in the 6th–7th centuries and included a shirt, an apron, a bib, a headdress - a kichka, bast shoes, and was common in many provinces of central Russia and the south of Russia.

Shirts, soul warmers, kokoshniks, etc. were worn with sundresses. Women of Altai, the Urals, the Volga region, Siberia, and the north of the European part of Russia dressed up in such clothes. The heyday of this costume occurred in the 15th–17th centuries.

Cossack women of the North Caucasus and the Don wore a dress with a cap, accompanied by a shirt with wide sleeves and long pants. The clothing of men throughout Rus' was monotonous and consisted of a shirt-shirt, narrow pants, bast shoes or leather shoes, and a hat.

Noble costume

The peculiarity of the national Russian dress is the abundance of outerwear, capes and swings. The clothing of the nobility belongs to the Byzantine type. In the 17th century, elements borrowed from the Polish toilet appeared in it. To preserve the originality of the costume, by a royal decree of August 1675, nobles, solicitors, and stewards were forbidden to wear foreign attire.

The costume of the nobility was made of expensive fabrics, richly decorated with gold embroidery, pearls, and buttons made of gold and silver. At that time there was no concept - fashion, style did not change for centuries, a rich dress was inherited from generation to generation.

Until the end of the 17th century, national clothes were worn by all classes: boyars, princes, artisans, merchants, peasants. The reformer Tsar Peter I brought the fashion for European costume to Russia and banned the wearing of national vestments for all classes except peasants and monks. The peasants remained faithful to the national decoration until the end of the 19th century.

Nowadays you won’t see a person dressed in a national costume on the street, but some elements inherent in Russian traditional costume have migrated into modern fashion.