The crowning achievement of any needlewoman’s career can be crochet Irish lace dress. After all, this is the most complex, smoky, labor-intensive knitting technique.

Why is it so difficult to knit Irish lace?

1. You need to make the right pattern, ideal for your figure. The motifs are connected by mesh into a single fabric without seams; if your pattern does not slightly correspond to the size of the figure, then it will be very difficult to unravel and bandage the finished product.
2. The pattern must have darts, you can’t do without them. Only with darts will the dress fit properly. If you are not sure of the accuracy of the pattern, then take and sew a dress from any fabric using it. Try it on and adjust it on yourself.
3. The product consists of large quantity elements, it is very important to choose a beautiful one for them color scheme. You often see craftswomen demonstrating their dresses using the Irish lace technique, but you realize that they are too tacky, or, conversely, too simple. It seems clear that everything is connected clearly, a lot of work has been spent, but the product does not “sparkle” with its beauty. But this technique was created so that we could create masterpieces that are unique in their kind.
4. Needlewomen advise not to choose many different motifs if you are not confident in your skills. After all, the more elements of Irish lace you knit, the more difficult it is to fit them harmoniously into ready-made dress. Those who knit in Ireland have recently chosen simpler elements, but professionals prefer to create original elements that are unlike anyone else. Not only is it very difficult to repeat the work once connected, but it is not always possible to guess the diagram of a particular element. Professionals must have their secrets.
5. It is necessary to break the thread and hide the ends at the end of knitting each motif. And there can be 50 – 100 – 200 or even more motifs in one dress. Each time you need to take a needle, hide the tip, cut off the excess yarn, subject it to heat or wet treatment and assemble separate compositions from them.
6. The last and satisfyingly monotonous part of the work is the connection individual elements Irish lace into the whole dress. If you connect them with an irregular mesh, then you need to use a thin hook, which means it will take a long time to connect. The mesh should not spoil the compositions, but complement them.
7. A dress using the Irish lace technique cannot be knitted in 1 or 2 weeks; real masterpieces take months to create, which means you will have to spend a lot of patience and labor. Not everyone makes it to the finish line. And those who make it can rightfully be proud of themselves. Leave the dress for posterity, as family value and pass on by inheritance.

Would you like to knit a dress using the Irish lace technique? Then choose suitable models or just be inspired by our selection.

Dresses using the Irish lace technique, works by our authors

The Roksolana model is made using the Irish lace technique

Work by Svetlana Shevchenko Sova Fotina. The original idea was to create a tunic in oriental style, then the opportunity arose to create a whole dress. I used a combination of different shades of blue and blue color, characteristic of Turkish national ornaments, and

The wedding dress is made using the technique of stacked Irish lace. 100% cotton Violet and Canaris with motifs and mesh, hook size 1.0 and 0.6. White pearl beads are knitted into the mesh throughout the dress, and in the center of each flower there is a

Summer sketch, model using Irish lace technique

“Summer sketch”, 52 sizes. The model is knitted to order. The dress is crocheted using the technique of interlocking guipure lace. Threads in selected colors: “Alize”, “Iris”, “Cotonex Eva”, “Kartopu kristal”, “YarnArt”, “Anna”, etc. Mostly mercerized cotton, but there were

I knitted this dress as a birthday present for my friend Anna. It was made using the Irish lace technique, the yarn was used by Alize Miss, 100% Merc. cotton, 50 g skein, meter 280 meters, hook

Sapphire Tale - model made using Irish lace technique

Hello handicraft girls! I would like to present to you my fantasy of a children's dress for my friend's granddaughter. The threads are the same as for the jacket: “Tulip”, “Sapphire”, “Egypt” for the mesh, “Vegas” for the cords, “Camellia” Lurex. Knitted for finishing 4th grade. I also knitted

The “Emerald” dress is knitted using the Irish lace technique according to MOD 545 magazine. “Violet” yarn is 100% cotton and “Atlas” yarn is used for finishing the motifs and mesh. Yarn made in Turkey. Description of the dress: first, a dress pattern is made, attached to a tablet (made of foam rubber

Knitted using Irish lace technique. Yarn "satin" 100% polyester. Yarn made in Turkey. The motifs are knitted in 2 threads, the mesh is knitted in 1 thread. Description of the dress: first, a dress pattern is made, attached to a tablet (made of foam rubber

The “Midsummer Night's Dream” dress is made using the Irish lace technique from cotton and viscose yarn in red, orange, black and various shades green flowers. Hooks No. 0.85, No. 1.15 and No. 1.6. Dress size 50-52. Red flowers (poppies)

Sundress for girls in the style of Irish lace

Work by Lyudmila Maksyutova. Sundress for a two-year-old girl in the style of Irish lace. The threads are Turkish cotton of different colors; for the mesh I used a thin cotton thread. Hooks - for elements - 1.00, for mesh - 0.75.

Size 50. The dress is knitted using the Irish lace technique from various types cotton and viscose yarn in black, various shades of purple and pale green. Hooks No. 1.5; No. 1.15 and No. 0.8. The work used a caterpillar cord

The dress “Azure of Summer” is knitted using the Irish lace technique. Yarn "satin" 100% polyester. The yarn is made in Turkey. The motifs are knitted in 2 threads, the mesh is knitted in 1 thread. Description of the dress: first, a dress pattern is made and attached to a tablet (made of foam rubber or insulation).

Summer dress “Snow Flowers”, knitted using the Irish lace technique from cotton and viscose yarn. The mesh is made of more thin thread than motives. Finishing - glass beads and rhinestones. Size 50-52. Dress knitting patterns:

The “Violet” dress is knitted using the Irish lace technique according to the magazine MOD 566 MK Valeeva A. Yarn 100% cotton “Violet”, “Garden 10”, “Iris Atlas”. Yarn made in Turkey. Description of the dress: first, a dress pattern is made, attached to a tablet (made of foam rubber

How to knit a sundress using the Irish lace technique

Hi all! Finally, I have completed my longest work. My first work using the Irish lace technique. I don’t remember the name of the yarn, it’s definitely mercerized cotton, about 200 or 250 m per 50 g.

The “Pearl of the Bouquet” dress is knitted using the Irish lace technique based on the idea of ​​Olga-Anastasia. Yarn 100% cotton “Violet”, “Filodiscosia 16″, “Princess” 100% viscose (centres of daisies). Yarn made in Turkey. Description of the dress First, a dress pattern is made, attached to the tablet (from

Good afternoon I present to your attention my new job. The dress is tailored for a specific person - hence the color scheme. The threads were used by Violet YarnArt and Kotonax Eva. The work also used a cord - a caterpillar and a snail cord. Approximate

Irish lace style sundress

Work by Lilia Escabar. I would like to show you my new work, made using the Irish (hitch) lace technique. The yarn used is Azalea, Soso, Chamomile, on the mesh - Canaris, hooks 1.1, 0.75. Long dress for a summer evening or special occasions. Size 52-54, by

Models using the Irish lace technique, ideas from the Internet

Roses in Irish lace style

For the motifs, Violet yarn from YarnArt (282m/50g), 100% cotton was used.

Summer dress from Fashion Magazine

Knitting patterns

Video tutorials on knitting a dress in Irish lace style

Delicate children's dress in Irish or guipure technique

During the lesson you will learn how to use ready-made openwork fabric when knitting a children's dress, how to connect the parts and tie the product. This dress will become your baby's favorite outfit. Enjoy your viewing! Yarn 100% cotton, 565 m per 100 g, hook 1.0 mm or 1.2 mm.

How to knit a baby dress in Irish lace style

10 lessons from the famous craftswoman Natalia Kotelnikova. We have added the first lesson as well.

The video should load here, please wait or refresh the page.

Irish lace, dress “Haze”, part 1

This video shows the process of knitting the “Haze” dress using the Irish lace technique. The motifs for the dress are based on the master classes of Alla Tronina and Natalia Kotelnikova.

The video should load here, please wait or refresh the page.

Irish lace, dress “Haze”, part 2

The video should load here, please wait or refresh the page.

Knitting using Irish lace technique. Work on mistakes.

ttp://www.mirvyazaniya.ru/

Knitting using Irish lace technique. Work on mistakes.

Knitting using the Irish lace technique turned out to be so interesting and exciting that I wanted to continue. I would like to immediately please those who are struggling with their first Irish Lancer - the second job will go much faster and easier. For example, knitting that same ill-fated mesh, which is so difficult at the very beginning, becomes almost the most favorite activity in all of knitting, as they say from personal experience.

It is quite natural that in the second work I wanted to “work on my mistakes”, take into account and practice in practice the conclusions that were obtained as a result of working on my first creation.

And the very first thing I want to start with is composition, in which a selection of color combinations and yarn textures plays an important role. If you still doubt that you can choose colors harmoniously, try “solid Ireland” - always a win-win. In this case, you can choose yarn of the same color of different texture and texture, which will emphasize the relief and contrast of the motifs. The result cannot but please you - plain lace always looks impressive. If we still want to see some color scheme, then you need to take the selection of colors quite seriously (this is from my sad experience). Firstly, fight in every possible way the temptation to “tuck” any leftover yarn. Such savings are not justified. Even if you choose the right color (which is rare in itself), you may simply not have enough threads. All this will put you in strict limits and will not allow your creative vision to be realized in full force. Indeed, in addition to the fact that you will need to harmoniously fit your remaining threads into the color scheme, you will also need to distribute it all evenly throughout the entire product, which is quite problematic if there is no way to buy the missing threads. Although this is just a recommendation and if you are not afraid of these difficulties, try it. Secondly, trust your intuition; if the ball of thread you bought resonates with other threads, or even just causes discomfort that is still inexplicable to you, feel free to throw it out of the “project”.

After the idea of ​​the future masterpiece has been determined and the yarn has been selected, we knit the motifs.
Since the idea itself is a subtle and intuitive matter, and most importantly, it is subject to various adjustments in creative process, I would not impose all the motifs at once and fill the entire pattern with them (unless you are repeating a ready-made model). After all, it is often during the knitting process that some ideas, discoveries, and additions arise. You may decide to enrich the overall picture with a new motif or replace an existing motif with another. In short, leave room for maneuver. In addition, if you, like me, do not fix the motifs on the base, then in the end they will be located on the pattern in a completely different way from how you originally laid them out. Therefore, in my case, there is always the possibility of simply imposing unnecessary motives.

Initially my idea was like this. I wanted to focus specifically on the mesh, and lower the motifs (roses) down the product, forming the edge (bottom of the product) with them. It was also assumed that there would not be many motives themselves.

So, we fill part of the pattern with motifs and fix them with the help of “hooks”. (Since in my previous product, when assembling with mesh, I often missed hooks in the canvas and, where necessary, did not fasten the motifs with mesh, I decided to make the hooks in a contrasting color so that they stood out sharply against the general background and were clearly visible). Thus, from the motifs and the cord, we kind of form the frame of the canvas, and then fill it with a mesh.

At the same time, the very contours of the “islands” and sections of the mesh are formed during the process of knitting this very mesh. Moreover, we fill the islands not evenly in order, one after another, but in discord. I think this is important: after all, I knit the mesh on a straight plane (table) and this very section of the mesh also turns out to be flat, but the fabric will need to be placed on the figure. Therefore, the “gaps” specially left in different places are then corrected on the figure, and it is due to them that the fitting occurs. I constantly keep two things in my head: the general plan and darts (or rather, the places where they should be).

Don’t forget to lightly iron and steam the finished sections of the fabric (as a rule, after this the fabric increases a little) and constantly check it with the pattern. The most important thing is not only not to go beyond the boundaries of the pattern, but also not to tie it a little to its edges at the sides and on the shoulder seams. We need this in order not to form a visible seam, a junction of the fabrics, the transition should be imperceptible, and this technique of stacked lace, like no other, allows us to do this very easily.

After all the parts are connected, I begin assembling the figure. I fixed all the details using hooks and chains from air loops, which then filled all the voids. If these same voids turned out to be large, I inserted motives, the main thing is that they do not run counter to the general plan.

In this work I wanted to make the mesh the main element in the product. I tried two types of mesh: with rings and a regular, irregular one. (I knitted the last one for the first time and Hurray! I think I got it right).

I also noted that it is convenient to knit “rings” while hanging, but when the motifs are rigidly fixed to the base, it is very difficult to knit them, I would even say almost impossible.

Here is a small example of filling areas with a grid.

Of course, it is better to hide the left ponytails right away, as they get in the way when working. But if you don’t often have the opportunity to knit, and especially knit in peace and quiet in “normal (for knitting using the Irish lace technique) conditions”, then you can do the ponytails later, for example, when the table is occupied or when you are sitting on a bench in the yard, walking with a child. This is already a matter of saving time.

When knitting mesh, we naturally try to fasten the motifs fixed with “hooks”, and even think about the direction of knitting in order to do this better. But if you can’t fasten the “hook” beautifully, we skip it. Our mesh must be perfect! There is nothing wrong with this, even if you don’t manage to fasten the hook another time (on the other hand), this can always be done separately (just an additional tail, which is also easily hidden in the motif).

Of course, when you just start knitting something using the Irish lace technique, you are sure to encounter situations when something doesn’t work out, something needs to be corrected, tweaked, or even completely remade. As they say, it’s not the gods who burn the pots! We are all learning, and this is a lifelong process. Therefore, I would like to dwell on my alterations as well.

I don’t fix the motives on the base, so I have the opportunity to constantly turn the canvas over and see what I get from the face. However, when tying the leaf with mesh, I still looked at the “teeth” that I got. I decided that it was easier to fix it than to bandage everything again. Since I had run out of the threads from which the leaves were knitted (and I could have tied the motif along the edge), I used this disguise: I hid the defect and gave the leaf more expressiveness. Maybe it will be useful to someone.

If it happened to you (like me) that a little more fabric was applied than necessary, don’t worry, everything can be fixed! And doing this is not at all as difficult and scary as it might seem at first glance. When you need to remove a small section of the mesh, I don’t think it makes sense to look for the “beginning and end” of the thread in order to unravel it. Firstly, this matter may turn out to be futile (especially if all the “tails” are tightly hidden), and secondly, it is very easy to dissolve something that is not at all what is needed. It is much easier to take scissors and carefully cut out the excess without touching neighboring motifs (directly along the connecting posts of the grid). Then “clean” the motifs from the remnants of the mesh and secure the open end, avoiding further unraveling (it is important, of course, to find it first). And then carefully check whether we have missed anything, for example, an accidentally damaged motif, some other open end, in a word, everything that can unravel. Well, everything is ready for rework. (I’ll tell you a secret that, stepping on the same rake, I reduced the volume of the sleeve in this way, well, by next time you will have to pay even more attention to the pattern).

IMG_5257-1.jpg.
This is my first dress in IR.
Next I will describe how it was given to me. maybe someone will find my work useful

I was inspired by Irish lace from the Internet and decided to try making it for myself in the same style.
I haven’t worked with Irish lace yet, but it will be even more interesting.
To begin with, I knitted samples of some motifs that I like and are not particularly difficult to perform.
Below I will give a detailed description of each of them.


WP_20160515_10_10_46_Pro.jpg
One skein of 50g is untied here.
Violet threads from YarnArt.


WP_20160601_18_52_28_Pro_1.jpg


WP_20160520_11_35_58_Pro.jpg
These are multi-layered flowers, as many as can be obtained from one skein.
I knit the rest of the skein or small elements or, like here, a twig, as long as the thread is enough.


WP_20160520_11_36_36_Pro.jpg
Knitting a flower:
Dial 6 v. n. connect into a ring.
1r. Three lifting loops, 15 double crochets in a ring.
2 rub. 8 arches of 3 air loops secured with a single crochet.
3 rub. We make a petal over each arch. the first and last single crochet, and in the center 5 tbsp. double crochet
4r. 8 arches from 5th century. p., with fastening under between the leaves of the previous layer.
5 rub. We make a petal over each arch. the first and last single crochet, and in the center 7 tbsp. double crochet
6r. 8 arches from the 6th century. p., with fastening under between the leaves of the previous layer.
7r. We make a petal over each arch. the first and last single crochet, and in the center 9 tbsp. double crochet
If the description is not very clear, there are many schemes of similar flowers.
Here you can fantasize with the number of layers and the shape of the petals

.jpg
This is a diagram of a leaf. I'll describe it in more detail with photos.

WP_20160522_13_04_51_Pro.jpg
1. tie a 16th century chain. p. connect into a ring, tie with 24 st. b\n, and make 3 lift-turn loops

WP_20160522_13_07_27_Pro.jpg
2. Rotate the work. Skip one bottom st. Knit 11 sts, taking both braids.
Arch of 5 air loops. Skip one bottom st. Knit 11 sts, taking both braids.
3 lifting and turning loops.

WP_20160522_13_10_47_Pro.jpg
3. Rotate the work. Skip one bottom st. Knit 10 sc, taking both braids.
Then four single stitches under the loops of the arch. Arch of 5 air loops. And three more single stitches under the loops of the arch. Further
We continue knitting st b/n, stop without knitting 2 st b/n to the edge and make three lifting-turn loops.

WP_20160522_13_13_23_Pro.jpg
4. Rotate the work. Skip one bottom st. Knit st b/n in each bottom. Three tbsp. b/n under the hinges of the arch.
Arch 5th century p. and four more tbsp. b\n under the arch. Be careful at this stage.
On the side where we knit three columns under the arch, a concave edge will be formed, where four - a convex edge of the leaf.
After four tbsp. We continue knitting under the arch, not reaching two sts. to the edge.

WP_20160522_13_16_40_Pro.jpg
5. Rotate the work. Skip one bottom st. Knit st b/n in each bottom. Four tbsp. b/n under the hinges of the arch.
Arch 5th century p. and three more tbsp. b\n under the arch. We continue knitting, not reaching three stitches here and in subsequent rows. to the edge.
We make three lifting and turning loops.

WP_20160522_13_20_59_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_25_16_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_29_47_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_34_26_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_39_28_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_45_06_Pro.jpg

WP_20160522_13_50_25_Pro.jpg

6.--12. We continue to knit everything in the same way, guided by the principle, after turning at the beginning one st. we skip,
under the arch we knit 4 stitches on the convex side and 3 on the concave side and at the end three stitches. we don't tie it up.
Continue knitting until the leaf reaches the desired size. I like the number 12. One big + 11 small holes.

WP_20160522_13_57_58_Pro.jpg
13. We untie in the same way as the previous rows, but under the arch we make only 7 tbsp. b\n.

WP_20160522_14_02_20_Pro.jpg
14. untie in the same way, but on the rounding we make 2 tbsp. b\n surplus, so that round edge didn't pull.

WP_20160522_14_05_00_Pro.jpg
15. Well, we knit the final row to the middle of the rounding, the last st. replace it with a blind loop and secure it.
A blind loop will allow you to finish the knitting by nullifying it.

WP_20160522_14_06_23_Pro.jpg


WP_20160522_14_06_37_Pro.jpg

During the knitting process, the leaf spins very much, so it looks unsteamed.

WP_20160523_17_41_40_Pro.jpg
50 grams of leaves and small parts from the remainder

Next is a small MK of the "Curl" motif


WP_20160525_14_19_47_Pro.jpg
1. Tie 20cm of braided cord. Make 3 lifting loops. Link st. s\n

WP_20160525_15_54_28_Pro.jpg
2. Twist the post. I do 5 pairs of entanglements. In total, tie 12 twisted columns into each loop of the braid.
This way the braid lies in a circle.

WP_20160525_16_03_25_Pro.jpg
3. Tie another 9 twisted columns with fastening through one loop into a pigtail,
so that there is no further rounding or it is minimal.

WP_20160525_16_06_19_Pro.jpg
4. Next 3 tbsp. s\n in two steps, 3 tbsp. s\n in one go, 3 tbsp. b\n. and further until the end of the motive with blind loops.

WP_20160525_16_13_08_Pro.jpg
5. Rotate the work. Tie with arches from 3 in. p., securing art. b/n between entwined posts,
and in the area of ​​blind loops every third.
Secure with a blind loop opposite the fourth entwined post. to form a loop.

WP_20160525_16_26_09_Pro.jpg
6. turn the work. Make the piping of the arches: 2 tbsp. b\n, 3 c. p., 2 tbsp. b\n.
Finish with a blind loop.
This is a cute and not at all complicated curl.

WP_20160530_16_54_44_Pro.jpg
50gr. curls.

Next I will knit a large openwork shell


WP_20160601_22_45_39_Pro.jpg
1. Tie a braid about 32cm - 100 loops

WP_20160601_22_56_30_Pro.jpg
2. 3 lifting loops and art. s\n in the first loop of the braid. 2nd century P..
Then knit two tbsp. s\n in every second loop of the braid,
alternating with two c. p.. knit 25 pairs.

WP_20160601_23_04_27_Pro.jpg
3. Continue knitting pairs of stitches, but alternating with one in. p. to the end of the braid

WP_20160601_23_21_25_Pro.jpg
4. Rotate the work. Tie the arches st. b\n: 3 pieces under 1c. p, 4 pcs each under 2v. P.
Secure 21-22 pairs of posts into the ring opposite, so that it fits beautifully in a circle.
Knit 3 blind loops into the braid loops

WP_20160601_23_27_10_Pro.jpg
5. Art. b\n in the third loop of the arches. again 3 blind loops in a pigtail.
St s\n in the third loop of the arches.
thus knit six stitches. s\n.

WP_20160601_23_39_03_Pro.jpg
6. Next, knit 4 blind loops in a pigtail, and switch to double crochets,
so that the shell spreads a little. At the end of the braid, make a tie
three tbsp. b\n the outermost column of three air loops. Secure the end of the work with a blind loop.

WP_20160601_16_33_46_Pro.jpg
I applied almost half the volume.
I start to play around, I scattered motifs all over the dress,
I appreciate what happens.

I bought 12 skeins in total. This is spread out into 4 skeins.
This means the second half will be about the same.
The remaining threads are for gathering and perhaps a small sleeve,
it will be seen along the way.
I hope to fit into 12 skeins

Another "spiral" motif

WP_20160605_15_23_19_Pro.jpg
1. Wind 3 turns of thread around your hand. you can use a template: a book, a ruler, etc.
The final size of the element will depend on the length of the wound thread.

WP_20160605_15_25_38_Pro.jpg

2. Knit 2 tbsp. b\n for three threads.
Thread an auxiliary thread to make it easier to hold the work at the beginning.

WP_20160605_15_27_09_Pro.jpg
3. Knit 5-7 tbsp. b\n already for all six threads

WP_20160605_15_27_58_Pro.jpg
4. Pull out the auxiliary thread and move the knitted stitches to the edge,
so that the hole at the beginning closes and so that the turns lie more tightly.

WP_20160605_15_43_34_Pro.jpg
5. Continue knitting in stitches, every 10-12 stitches I move them slightly, compacting them
as much as it pleases the eye.
When the row ends, I insert an auxiliary thread so that the work lies more comfortably in the hand.

WP_20160605_15_50_37_Pro.jpg
6. Knit to the end, pull out the auxiliary thread
and knit another 5-6 stitches into the outer loop.
Fasten and trim, leaving 50 cm of free thread, thread through a ketel needle.
Or any with a large comfortable ear.

WP_20160605_15_53_17_Pro.jpg
7. Next we will sew. We lay out the lace in a circle and sew the pigtails through the loops.

WP_20160605_15_59_59_Pro.jpg
8. This is the front side.

WP_20160605_16_07_20_Pro.jpg
9. Continue stitching as much as you like. Either to the end or leaving a tail.
I'll leave a small tail for now.
When assembling the dress, you will see what to do with it next.

WP_20160608_16_35_23_Pro.jpg

A berry or a button, as you please.
1. Wind 10 turns around a pencil.
2. 3. 4. Knit three rows of single crochets one above the other, always inserting the hook into the center.
You can knit more until the hole in the center closes.
The volume of the berry depends on this.
I plan to use this item right away.
That’s why I immediately make two lifting loops.

WP_20160608_16_41_11_Pro.jpg

I turn the button inside out on the face, on this side it looks more convex.
I attach it to the shell inside with a blind loop, make two more blind loops for a total of three blind loops in the braid.
Then double crochet the button and alternate almost until the end.
At the end I make the stitches longer, I decide by eye, one stitch with two crochets,
and two more double crochet stitches. Trying not to pull and lay down beautifully.

WP_20160609_13_52_13_Pro.jpg

Untying the fifth skein

In the comments there was a question about the hook number. I find it difficult to answer.
I have an old Soviet set for 4 rubles 50 kopecks. I use the smallest one.

WP_20160623_12_15_11_Pro.jpg

WP_20160626_11_58_28_Pro.jpg

Another skein of curls.

WP_20160714_12_56_56_Pro.jpg

Another skein of leaves.

This results in a lot of dense elements.
I decided to introduce another easier one.

WP_20160713_10_43_26_Pro.jpg

WP_20160713_10_46_22_Pro.jpg

WP_20160713_10_50_44_Pro.jpg

WP_20160713_10_54_42_Pro.jpg

WP_20160713_11_10_09_Pro.jpg

And so I tied off one skein of violet with this flower.

WP_20160713_11_10_11_Pro.jpg

For further work, assembling the product, it turned out that additional devices would be needed.

I made them myself in a couple of days.

WP_20160715_17_34_09_Pro.jpg

These are oval pillows for placing under the undercuts of the butt and hips.

WP_20160715_20_09_41_Pro.jpg

This is a 33/40 cm rectangular tablet for collecting straight areas.
For convenience and rigidity, plywood is inserted inside.

WP_20160716_14_14_33_Pro.jpg

Based on the size of my cups, I made two hemispherical pillows,
for ease of work in the area of ​​chest darts.

WP_20160716_16_21_22_Pro.jpg

This is the set of pillows for work.
On the advice of experienced craftswomen, I decided to use foam rubber.

WP_20160721_21_51_36_Pro.jpg

Now to make the base for the work on which the lace elements will be basted.

WP_20160722_01_37_34_Pro.jpg

All elements are laid out on the base and basted inside out.

WP_20160722_01_37_47_Pro.jpg

Since I don’t have a model figure at all. And I know from experience that the most interesting thing is
It’s like the product will fit exactly on a real person.
In the magazines they are all super pretty.
So for those who are curious, here are my measurements, height 153, hips 104, chest 88, waist 74.

For edging the neckline and zipper line I used a cord based on a pigtail,
tied on both sides with a crayfish step.

During the basting process, we still had to tie up the elements. not enough.
And I decided that they should be tight.
As a result, the elements took 10 skeins of Violet thread from YarnArt 282m in a 50-gram skein.
The dress is already noticeable, weighs half a kilo.

I'm moving on to assembly.

I decided to assemble it using a needle with the same thread, in other words, to sew a mesh.

Working with a tablet looks something like this: we prick a straight section.
Let's sew. We chip away. Let's move it. We prick the next section.

WP_20160814_17_01_16_Pro.jpg

For convenience and greater anatomical accuracy of the product, we use pads on the undercuts.

So I sewed off the front of the dress.

WP_20160904_17_46_22_Pro.jpg

And the back

WP_20160904_17_46_51_Pro.jpg

The view from the inside wrinkles a little, because when pricking on the tablet, we stretch the elements and the canvas a little.
Don’t let this bother you, the better the fit will be.

WP_20160904_17_47_40_Pro.jpg

Assembling the sleeve unfolded on a tablet

WP_20160917_18_33_09_Pro.jpg

Sew off the mesh sleeves.

WP_20160920_09_48_28_Pro.jpg

Sew the side seams of the sleeves.

WP_20160920_10_51_17_Pro.jpg

We sew the sleeves into the armhole.

WP_20160920_15_46_32_Pro.jpg

WP_20160920_15_46_56_Pro.jpg

WP_20160920_15_52_29_Pro.jpg

Using a small pad, we begin to sew the mesh along the side seam of the sleeve and the armhole.
here you will have to tinker, cutting the product in small sections due to the complex shape of the armhole.
But it's worth it!!! do not neglect the accuracy of the cut, the product will thank you later,
And fits like a glove

WP_20160920_16_30_17_Pro.jpg

Next, after the entire mesh is sewn off,
I washed the dress manually and without ceremony
spin speed 800. The dress is cotton, takes a long time to dry.
It is better to dry in a warm room.
then ironed it without removing it from the base.
And then I cut off the basting.
I will not describe the making of the lining.
Anyone who knows how to sew will sew.
If you don't know how, order it from a dressmaker.

Advice, the lining also needs to be sewn according to the figure.
I used the same pattern as for making the base.
do not forget to allow for a loose fit so that
When walking, the dress did not creep up.

The lace and lining were joined manually along the neckline and zipper.

This is what the dress looks like from the inside out.

WP_20161005_11_21_50_Pro.jpg

WP_20161005_11_22_07_Pro.jpg

WP_20161005_11_23_00_Pro.jpg

WP_20161005_11_23_10_Pro.jpg

I decided to sew up the slit in the back of the skirt with a flower, but left a slit in the lining,
All the same, the lining is not knitwear.
The dress is not long and elastic, there is no discomfort when walking.

WP_20161005_11_36_55_Pro.jpg

A little close-up.

IMG_5257-f.jpg

And this is all that remains of 12 skeins of thread. almost right next to each other.

WP_20161005_12_04_10_Pro.jpg

Well, here's the finish. Thank you for your patience to read to the end.

Good luck to everyone in all your endeavors.

And the pleasure of the work done.

IMG_5314-1.jpg

Knitting "Yarrow"

The very popular “Yarrow” or “Centipede” motif is often found in Irish printed lace. The motif is performed using bourdon.

Let me remind you that bourdon is a thread of 3-4 folds. It is advisable to use the same thread as the working thread or one that matches exactly the color. Otherwise, another base will be visible in the kinks.

We start with 18 s.b.n., typed on a bourdon. We enclose them in a ring, hooking them to the initial stitch of the connecting stitch.

Then we continue to gain another 60 st.b.n. on bourdon.

We turn the knitting over, having previously pulled the bourdon threads tighter. Let me remind you - we turn it over, like a leaf of a book that has been read.
And we knit 20 dc, laying the bourdon over the loops of the previous row.

Having knitted the last stitch, be sure to tighten the bourdon, setting the shape and density of the motif.

Temporarily set aside the bourdon threads. And then we knit in this order: 3 chain stitches, skipping 2 stitches of the previous row, knit 1 double chain stitch, again 2 chain stitches. Knit like this until the “head” of the sheet begins to round. We knit along the curve in the same way, only we skip 1 stitch of the previous row.

We turn the knitting and knit 3 tbsp into each formed arch.
All this time we don’t touch the bourdon!

Having reached the last point, we turn the work over and impose 15 st.b.n. on one bourdon.

We turn the work again and, having laid the bourdon, we knit it like this: 2 double stitches, 2 half stitches, 7 double stitches, 2 half stitches, 2 double stitches.

We turn the work, skip 2 sts of the previous row, knit 1 dc, clinging to the base row and again, laying a budon on top of the already knitted petal, knit 8 dc.

We turn the work again and knit in the above order, forming another petal.

In this way we tie the entire row to the end.
And we get a very original and traditional Irish lace motif.