What was fashionable in the 20th century. History of world fashion of the 20th century

FASHION HISTORY OF THE 20TH CENTURY. Over the centuries, fashion has had different directions, due to national characteristics, local customs, cultural level. Fashion was divided into French, Italian, English and young American. Clothes made from expensive fabrics, often decorated with precious stones, cost a fortune and were passed down from generation to generation. Fashionable changes appeared not only thanks to the imagination of the tailor, but also to the whims of the ruler. For example, daring necklines arose because the king liked them, or disappeared because the queen had inexpressive breasts. Over the centuries, fashion has had different directions, determined by national characteristics, local customs, and cultural level. Fashion was divided into French, Italian, English and young American. Clothes made from expensive fabrics, often decorated with precious stones, cost a fortune and were passed down from generation to generation. Fashionable changes appeared not only thanks to the imagination of the tailor, but also to the whims of the ruler. For example, daring necklines arose because the king liked them, or disappeared because the queen had inexpressive breasts.

Where did fashion begin? At all times in all At all times in all countries, fashion was intended only for the upper strata of society. only for the upper strata of society. Clothes were created for idleness. Clothes were created for idleness. Fashionistas on the threshold of the twentieth century not only Fashionable women on the threshold of the twentieth century not only could not do their daily hairstyle, but even their daily hairstyle, but even dress themselves. At the end of the 19th century, you could dress yourself. At the end of the 19th century, making clothes became a kind of art of Haute Couture. the art of Haute Couture. Couturiers were revered as artists of fashion. Couturiers were revered as fashion artists.

Interesting Facts art critics report... At the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900 At the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900, French fashion proved its undeniable superiority. The fashion department was headed by Madame Paquin - the first woman among top-class fashion designers to receive the Legion of Honor. Legion of Honor. In 1903, ballerina Isadora DuncanIn 1903, ballerina Isadora Duncan created a sensation by dancing in a loosecaused a sensation by dancing in a loose, see-through dress called a peplos, a see-through dress called a peplos, without a whalebone corset. without whalebone corset.

It’s interesting that... In the same year, Paul Poiret opened. In the same year, Paul Poiret opened own house fashion - our own fashion house began - the era of Poiret began. Having completed the revolution, the era of Poiret. Having carried out a revolution of silhouettes, Poiret freed women from silhouettes, Poiret freed women from a rigid corset. His dominance of the rigid corset. His dominance lasted until the First World War. His "Secrets of a well-dressed war. His "Secrets of a well-dressed clothed woman"still relevant today: women" and relevant today: "...A woman with true taste selects "...A woman with true taste selects dresses and jewelry for herself in order to feel dresses and jewelry in order to feel beautiful. And not at all because she feels so beautiful. And not at all because someone else dresses like that...". someone else dresses like that...".

The incomprehensible Coco... The period between the two wars can be easily called the "Era of Chanel". boldly call it the “Era of Chanel”. The incomprehensible Chanel made the Incomprehensible Chanel made a revolution in fashion, giving women a revolution in fashion, giving women a modern look. In the midst of war in a modern look. At the height of the war in 1916, Coco Chanel introduced jersey into fashion. Beige machine-knitted jersey, considered "poor man's," has become a new revolutionary material. Clothes from Chanel were striking in their purity and severity of lines and were not just alien, but even hostile to decoration. The “Chanel” style radically changed the entire appearance of contemporaries. Coco introduced short haircuts for women into fashion. Even the richest ladies wore artificial pearls “from Chanel.” Coco Chanel introduced jersey into fashion. Beige machine-knitted jersey, considered "poor man's," has become a new revolutionary material. Clothes from Chanel were striking in their purity and severity of lines and were not just alien, but even hostile to decoration. The “Chanel” style radically changed the entire appearance of contemporaries. Coco introduced short haircuts for women into fashion. Even the richest ladies wore artificial pearls from Chanel.

So, the 20s... In 1922, the story was published. In 1922, the story by Victor Margett “Le garcon” was published, Victor Margett “Le garcon”, after which the name “garcon” was named for a new trend in fashion that arose in the 20s. in fashion, which arose in the 20s. The embodiment of this fashion was The embodiment of this fashion was Greta Garbo. Short-cropped hair, brightly painted small hair, brightly painted small mouth, defined eyebrows, straight dresses-mouth, defined eyebrows, straight dresses-shirts, open legs in silk sheer stockings and pointed sheer stockings and pointed pumps. Tall, slender wearing pumps. Tall, slender without pronounced hips and breasts, without pronounced hips and chest, a woman-boy diligently works out a woman-boy diligently plays sports, sunbathes, loves sports, sunbathes, loves jazz, dances the foxtrot and: WORKS.

"Small black dress» In 1924 - the length of the skirt is sharply reduced. In 1924 - the length of the skirt is sharply reduced. Coco Chanel invents the "little black dress". Vogue magazine presciently predicts Vogue presciently predicts that this simple black dress will become that this simple black dress will become a universal model, a universal model that will be worn by all women will be worn by all women. women. A unique invention A unique invention of Chanel has remained in the arsenal of modern fashion for many decades. modern fashion.

English Chanel style. During a trip to the United States, Patu, with the help of the editor of Vogue magazine, selected six American girls from high society with an ideal figure, according to the ideas of that time, trained them and brought them to Paris to demonstrate models. Russian beauties from noble families who fled the revolution in Russia worked as models at the House of Chanel. In 1928, the skirt barely covered the knees. Gabrielle Chanel brings English style into fashion and suggests wearing jewelry with it. During a trip to the United States, Patu, with the help of the editor of Vogue magazine, selected six American girls from high society with an ideal figure, according to the ideas of that time, trained them and brought them to Paris to demonstrate models. Russian beauties from noble families who fled the revolution in Russia worked as models at the House of Chanel. In 1928, the skirt barely covered the knees. Gabrielle Chanel brings English style into fashion and suggests wearing jewelry with it.

30s of the 20th century... Many modern items Many items modern wardrobe, wardrobes that seem to us to be completely natural and as if completely natural and as if always present, were invented by always present, invented by Coco Chanel: a shoulder handbag, Coco Chanel: a shoulder handbag, metal jewelry, chains. metal jewelry, chains. Pivotal historical events. Pivotal historical events certainly have an impact on fashion. certainly influence fashion. Back in 1932, the chief of the Parisian police forbade Marlene Dietrich to go out in trousers, after she tried to go out into the street, after she tried to walk in that form along the Seine . How about walking along the Seine like this? And during World War II, trousers became common clothing for women who replaced men at work in the rear. During World War II, trousers became common clothing for women who replaced men at work in the rear.

40s of the 20th century... The war ended, and society expected The war ended, and society expected a new explosion of fashion, the appearance of a new explosion of fashion, the appearance of the first bikini swimsuits: In 1947, Christian Dior created a new style Christian Dior created a new style "New Look" . In the book “I am a Ladies' Tailor” he wrote: “... We have left behind us an era of war, forming behind us an era of war, uniforms. I painted women resembling flowers, gently convex shoulders, a rounded chest line, liana-like slender waists and wide, liana-like slender waists and wide, diverging to the bottom, like a calyx of a flower, diverging to the bottom, like a calyx of a flower, skirt..." Already in 1948 Dior’s “new style” was adopted not only by all of Europe, but also by America.

50s of the 20th century... In the 50s. Along with the first line intended exclusively for youth, Dior creates several clothing styling lines under clothing styling lines under “N”, “X”, “U”, “A”, etc. Of course, “N”, “X”, “Y”, “A”, etc. It goes without saying that the fashion of the 50s was not created by Dior alone. was not created by Dior alone. The 50s were the time of the highest heyday and glory of Parisian haute couture. and the glory of Parisian haute couture. One of the Haute Couture houses that flourished at that time was the House of Hubert de Givenchy. Haute Couture Houses House of Hubert de Givenchy. This ideal stylistic duo reflected This ideal stylistic duo reflected the standard of elegance of the 50s. In 1957, fifty-two-year-old Christian Dior passed away. The following year, 21-year-old Yves Saint Laurent, as the chief fashion designer of the House of Dior, released his first sensational collection. And in 1962, the House of Yves Saint Laurent was created. the standard of 50s elegance. In 1957, fifty-two-year-old Christian Dior passed away. The following year, 21-year-old Yves Saint Laurent, as the chief fashion designer of the House of Dior, released his first sensational collection. And in 1962, the House of Yves Saint Laurent was created.

Hello Twiggy!... In the late 50s and early 60s, the standard of living in Europe increased greatly, which brought relatively high earnings to young people. There was a need to turn the closed world of Haute Couture towards the mass consumer, to make fashion both highly professional and industrial - pret-a-porter. The fashion of the 60s should be defined as fashion that took to the streets. The rebellious young generation sought to free itself from the “bourgeois values” of their parents. Children of the 60s demonstrated this in their clothes, choosing blue jeans as the main item of clothing. Jeans - the most universal and democratic clothing of our century - are becoming the uniform for the Woodstock generation. In the late 50s and early 60s, the standard of living in Europe increased greatly, which brought relatively high earnings to young people. There was a need to turn the closed world of Haute Couture towards the mass consumer, to make fashion both highly professional and industrial - pret-a-porter. The fashion of the 60s should be defined as fashion that took to the streets. The rebellious young generation sought to free itself from the “bourgeois values” of their parents. Children of the 60s demonstrated this in their clothes, choosing blue jeans as the main item of clothing. Jeans - the most universal and democratic clothing of our century - are becoming the uniform for the Woodstock generation.

Trends of the 60s... The sexual revolution also found its clear expression in fashion. In 1966, American Mary Quant was awarded an OBE at Buckingham Palace for services to British exports for what she invented: the MINISKIRT. Conservative England turned out to be the birthplace of not only the Beatles, but also the minis. Yves Saint Laurent and Emmanuel Ungaro became the authors of the second wave of “nude or naked fashion” (the first was in the era of the French Revolution). The space age inspired Paco Rabanne, and from his first fashion show in 1966, he began creating dresses from metal plates, pieces of glass, rings and hoops. The sexual revolution also found its clear expression in fashion. In 1966, American Mary Quant was awarded an OBE at Buckingham Palace for services to British exports for what she invented: the MINISKIRT. Conservative England turned out to be the birthplace of not only the Beatles, but also the minis. Yves Saint Laurent and Emmanuel Ungaro became the authors of the second wave of “nude or naked fashion” (the first was in the era of the French Revolution). The space age inspired Paco Rabanne, and from his first fashion show in 1966, he began creating dresses from metal plates, pieces of glass, rings and hoops.

An ode to Italian fashion. The world of high fashion is not only the World of high fashion not only reflects the surrounding reality, but also develops according to its own internal laws. Having released its first laws. Having released his first collection in 1965, the Italian Valentino Garavani immediately became a star on the fashion firmament. Valentino is a star on the fashion horizon. Valentino made a breakthrough for the Italians into the world made a breakthrough for the Italians into the world of Houte couture, monopolized by Houte couture, monopolized by the French. French. This allowed Italian fashion to establish itself throughout the world in the 70s. Italian fashion all over the world. Milan becomes the second capital of world fashion after Paris.

Romanticism of folklore. In the late 60s - early 70s In the late 60s - early 70s, a new new romantic style appears (the immediate impulse (the immediate impulse for this was the musical for this was the musical Bernstein's "Hair"). But on Bernstein " Hair"). But this time we are not talking about this time we are not talking about the romanticism of Dior's romanticism of Dior's salons, but about romanticism, salons, but about romanticism inspired by folk inspired by folk folklore. folklore.

Eastern motives. In the 70s with the "invasion" of the eastern In the 70s. with the “invasion” of the eastern world into the European style of clothing, the world into the European style of clothing, the successful activities of the Japanese Kenzo Takada, Mitsuhiro Japanese Kenzo Takada, Mitsuhiro Matsuda, Yohji Yamomoto, Rei Matsuda, Yohji Yamomoto, Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake begin. They are Kawakubo and Issey Miyake. They create original European Fashion and work with elements of traditional oriental clothing. Kenzo brings into European fashion Kenzo brings even elements of rural Eastern European costume into European fashion.

The 80s... For some, the 80s are defined by the aesthetics For some, the 80s are defined by the aesthetics of Giorgio Armani. For others, it's the era of Giorgio Armani. For others, this is the era of the rise of Gianni Versace, the rise of Gianni Versace, who created his first collection - created his first collection - pret-a-porter in 1978. Clothing from the house of pret-a-porter in 1978. Clothing from the house of Versace was in keeping with the spirit of the 80s , with their passion, Versace was in tune with the spirit of the 80s, with their passion for exalted chic and stunning to exalted chic and stunning glitter. Like more than one couturier, Gianni Versace shines. Like more than one couturier, Gianni Versace invested a lot of money in advertising activities. invested a lot in advertising activities. His shows were famous for Italian chic and His shows were famous for Italian chic and American scope. For the first time, thanks to American scope. For the first time, thanks to the media, a fashion designer became the media, a fashion designer became a cult figure. Becoming one of the world's cult figures. Having become one of the world famous stars, Gianni Versace managed to connect famous stars, Gianni Versace managed to connect the Super Star System with fashion. Super Star System with fashion.

It’s interesting that... Models from “walking clothes hangers” have finally turned into stars of show business. A “top” category has appeared. Top models have become no less cult figures than pop stars. Top models have become no less cult figures than pop stars and actresses. And, if in the 60s the names of Twiggy or Veruschka von Lehndorff were well known to fashion admirers, then, for example, Cindy Cromford is known to everyone today. Cindy Cromford is a household name these days. In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld became a fashion designer. In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld became a fashion designer for the House of Chanel, the third coming of the House of Chanel came, the third coming of the “Chanel style” came, which became an enduring classic. In the 80s, women won their place. In the 80s, women won their place in business, and it seemed to them that the only way to succeed in the harsh world of cruel men was to imitate them in everything. And this fully applied to clothes. Women of the 80s And this fully applied to clothes. Women of the 80s are starting to wonder: are pants on a woman starting to wonder: are pants on a woman a violation business etiquette? Many models for business ladies are taken from the stores of men's business fashion. from the storerooms of men's and business fashion. Not only formal suits and shirts Not only formal suits and shirts in the men's style, but also ties or briefcases in the men's style, but also ties or briefcases have taken root in women's wardrobe. have taken root in women's wardrobes.

And one more thing... In 1983, Jane Fonda released a video course on aerobics, which became a craze. Aerobics clothing, as well as good physical form are coming into fashion. In 1988, Karl Lagerfeld brought leggings to the catwalk of the Paris show of the House of Chanel. In 1983, Jane Fonda released a video course on aerobics, which became a craze. Aerobics clothing, as well as good physical shape, are becoming fashionable. In 1988, Karl Lagerfeld brought leggings to the catwalk of the Paris show of the House of Chanel. The 80s were the heyday of bourgeois chic in fashion. Designer logos become noticeable details of clothing, emphasizing its prestige. The 80s were the peak of Houte couture. Haute Couture shows turn into performances. The wealthiest clients regularly ordered up to 20 models for each season (prices from $ per everyday dress up to $ per wedding). The 80s were the heyday of bourgeois chic in fashion. Designer logos become noticeable details of clothing, emphasizing its prestige. The 80s were the peak of Houte couture. Haute Couture shows turn into performances. The wealthiest clients regularly ordered up to 20 models for each season (prices ranged from $ for a casual dress to $ for a wedding dress).

Already closer: the 90s... In the pragmatic 90s, the philosophy of creation In the pragmatic 90s, the philosophy of creating clothes puts the expediency of clothing at the forefront, puts expediency and natural needs at the forefront. And this means that, firstly, we must be that, firstly, we must be protected, secondly, we must be protected, and secondly, we must be comfortable. Personal mythologies and momentary changes in mythology and momentary changes in moods by which fashion lives and moves are recognized as secondary. Modern fashion designers constantly Modern fashion designers constantly emphasize the absence of fashion dictates and the right of every woman to choose. But one cannot help but notice that the 90s are in fashion. Two trends predominate, which can very loosely be called purism and romanticism. can be called purism and romanticism.

Aesthetics of pragmatism. Purism, as a fashion style, denies the use of decorative details. It is characterized by clean lines, the highest quality of fabrics and materials, excellent cut and an ideal level of workmanship. Minimalist models that emphasize the bright individuality of the woman wearing them are typical for young fashion designers. The aesthetics of pragmatism could not be more natural for Americans. New York becomes the third fashion capital after Paris and Milan. Purism, as a fashion style, denies the use of decorative details. It is characterized by clean lines, the highest quality of fabrics and materials, excellent cut and an ideal level of workmanship. Minimalist models that emphasize the bright individuality of the woman wearing them are typical for young fashion designers. The aesthetics of pragmatism could not be more natural for Americans. New York becomes the third fashion capital after Paris and Milan. Minimalism is also characteristic of one of the most successful fashion suppliers, Calvin Klein. The founder of the unisex trend brought the “ordinary girl” Kate Moss to the catwalk and widely promoted the “heroin chic” style. Minimalism is also characteristic of one of the most successful fashion suppliers, Calvin Klein. The founder of the unisex trend brought the “ordinary girl” Kate Moss to the catwalk and widely promoted the “heroin chic” style.

A new wave in the romantic theme. The romantic style in fashion creates a counterbalance to the unisex style. Romanticism in various interpretations is characteristic of the star Versacce, the legendary Armani or the elite Valentino. The Italian duet brought a new wave to the romantic theme. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a creative tandem in 1985, and already in 1988 the Dolce&Gabbana collection brought them international fame. The romantic style in fashion creates a counterbalance to the unisex style. Romanticism in various interpretations is characteristic of the star Versacce, the legendary Armani or the elite Valentino. The Italian duet brought a new wave to the romantic theme. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a creative tandem in 1985, and already in 1988 the Dolce&Gabbana collection brought them international fame.

Young designers. “Young rebels”, “bad English boys” from the fashion of the early 90s become recognized and titled couturiers. John Galliano held his first show in Paris in 1990. And 5 years later, his spring-summer 1995 collection brought the author his third Designer of the Year award (for the first time in fashion history!). It is Galliano who will embody the style of the House of Dior in the next millennium. Alexander McQueen serves as the head designer of Givench. Mohicans of couture such as Kenzo and Isse Miyaki are handing over the Great Fashion Houses to young designers. “Young rebels”, “bad English boys” from the fashion of the early 90s become recognized and titled couturiers. John Galliano held his first show in Paris in 1990. And 5 years later, his spring-summer 1995 collection brought the author his third Designer of the Year award (for the first time in fashion history!). It is Galliano who will embody the style of the House of Dior in the next millennium. Alexander McQueen serves as the head designer of Givench. Mohicans of couture such as Kenzo and Isse Miyaki are handing over the Great Fashion Houses to young designers.

The thorny path fashion. In the 20th century, the fashion world went from art to business. The wind of the street, which can be cruel, penetrated the crystal walls of the fairy-tale palace of Haute Couture. On July 15, 1997, Gianni Versace, the king of pret-a-porter, with whom the world fashion of the last quarter of the last century is associated, was killed. In the 20th century, the fashion world went from art to business. The wind of the street, which can be cruel, penetrated the crystal walls of the fairy-tale palace of Haute Couture. On July 15, 1997, Gianni Versace, the king of pret-a-porter, with whom the world fashion of the last quarter of the last century is associated, was killed.

And in conclusion... At the turn of the millennium, fashion designers seem to be looking through the entire history of fashion. We are already accustomed to designers returning to the fashion of past decades. But this time they outdid themselves. The collections of the years “quote” the elegant 60s, the relaxed 70s, the luxurious 80s: the entire 20th century. At the turn of the millennium, fashion designers seem to be looking through the entire history of fashion. We are already accustomed to designers returning to the fashion of past decades. But this time they outdid themselves. The collections of the years “quote” the elegant 60s, the relaxed 70s, the luxurious 80s: the entire 20th century.

In the twentieth century, many events took place, many discoveries were made that subsequently turned the world upside down. This also affected fashion. Thanks to the events of that time, we now see women in trousers and swimsuits, which was once completely unacceptable, but I wonder what kind of fashion “revolutions” took place at the beginning of the 20th century?

Features of fashion at the beginning of the 20th century

By the beginning of the 20th century, the same fashion features remained as at the end of the 19th century. was not entirely comfortable. By this time, young ladies wore floor-length dresses, tall hats and hairstyles, and heavy fur coats were also fashionable. Before the beginning of the century, ladies still wore low, uncomfortable corsets, which could reach a girth of 45 centimeters at the waist and could thereby ruin their health, which was the last straw before a complete abandonment of this clothing attribute. Something needed to change, and by that time many changes in fashion had just begun to occur.

The very first years of the 20th century still retained echoes of the end of the previous century. Designers followed the Art Nouveau style that dominated art. The woman was presented as a very feminine, airy and unearthly creature.

Women's fashion of the early 20th century

But still, some innovations began to appear at the very beginning in 1900. If before women wore A-shaped dresses, then in the first decade they changed to outfits that fit more closely to the hips. And uncomfortable low-waisted corsets were first replaced by soft high-waisted corsets, and then stopped being used altogether. Also, until 1906, very wide sleeves at the top were popular, which tapered to the elbows and to the wrist. Such changes that have occurred have greatly changed the appearance of women.

The very long fashion for the “hourglass”, which consisted of curvy hips, a very narrow waist and full breasts, the look that women tried to achieve with the help of clothing, was replaced by a fashion for a more “rectangular” and simplified silhouette. Inconvenient and sometimes sacrificial beauty was replaced each time by practicality and convenience, so the fair half of humanity greeted innovations with absolute support and interest. By the second half of the decade, after the disappearance of the corset, the waist was emphasized with ribbons. Long floor-length dresses were shortened to the ankles.

Fashion designers have significantly simplified the silhouette of women's clothing, making it more straight. Dresses were already made with a wide waist or completely unfitted.

Sportswear was popular, which consisted of comfortable dresses for various types vigorous activity. A motorcycle veil, worn when driving a car, and a boater hat for cycling, playing tennis and much more have also gained popularity.

Accessories

The fashion for women's bags has also changed. At the beginning of the century, small handbags were still worn, but a few years later they became larger and more spacious.

A special emphasis in the image was placed on the hat. Ladies loved to wear models with wide brims with various decorations in the form of feathers, ribbons, beads. A hat is an essential accessory for any fashionista. By the end of the century, hats with brims hanging down, covering a little of the face, were in fashion.

The shoes were narrow with low heels and were also decorated with ribbons and various buttons.

Jewelry also underwent changes: intricate patterns were replaced by a smooth surface, gems began to be replaced with semi-precious stones and enamel, and porcelain began to be used more often. In other words, Jewelry became simpler and more restrained.

Hair and makeup

Aristocratic pallor was in fashion, which girls tried to emphasize as much as possible with the help of powder and all kinds of skin whitening products (for example, lemon juice). Makeup was applied to a minimum. They used lipsticks, but the color had to be quite dim. The eyes were emphasized with a small amount of shadow. Bright makeup was considered bad manners.

There was a very fashionable hairstyle called the “Marseille wave”, which was invented by Marcel Grateau. Using hot tongs, a neat wave was made on the hair.

Thanks to silent cinema, films came into fashion in 1909. short haircuts, and their popularity lasted a long time thanks to the First World War, when women, helping the wounded in hospitals, simply could not take care of their hair.

The beginning of the last century gave the world the now well-known hairstyles - “bob” and “garcon”.

But long hair were in fashion along with short ones. Girls loved to tie their loose curls (straight or curled) back into a knot.

Children's fashion

Girls of that time wore knee-length dresses similar to those worn by adult women, whose decoration was very similar to nightgowns. For the convenience of games, elbow-length sleeves appeared on dresses. And for footwear they wore black shoes or boots with buttons or trimmed with lace.

They also wore woolen stockings or leggings and gloves.

Men's fashion

A significant contribution to the history of fashion was made by the former umbrella merchant - the already mentioned Paul Poiret, who later became a great designer. It was he who simplified the dresses by removing the lining petticoat and corset. And it was he who shortened the skirts to the ankles. The designer also significantly decorated outerwear, because before him, despite all its quality, it did not differ in variety. released a collection of coats in the Slavic style, which differed in styles and were distinguished by the beauty of patterns and decorations.

Jeanne Paquin - the first female couturier. She, together with her husband Isidore Paquin, created a fashion house that had unprecedented success. Outfits from her collections were worn by fashionistas all over the world.

Russian fashion of the early 20th century

What happened to clothing in the Slavic world of those times? Women's fashion at the beginning of the 20th century in Russia came under the significant influence of the Art Nouveau style and, in general, was subject to almost the same changes as in Europe. The silhouette with a narrow waist but full bust also changed to a more rectangular and more form-fitting one.

Fashion magazines such as " Latest fashion", "Paris Fashions". There were even famous Russian fashion houses. There are many photos from the early 20th century. Fashion in the Russian Empire kept pace with world fashion.

But in addition to the influence of Europe, Russian fashion was significantly influenced by Japanese trends due to the Russo-Japanese War. This is especially noticeable in the hairstyles of fashionistas, who, using their hair, tried to create a high, lush rise on their heads, similar to the hairstyles of Japanese geishas.

The fashion of Russian women also differed from European fashion in its brighter, varied colors. The dresses were quite colorful, in contrast to the restrained colors of European dresses. They also had more decor than Western ones. Dresses could be trimmed with cross stitch, satin stitch, lots of lace and much more.

Furs remained popular. Ladies often wore muffs in winter.

It is worth mentioning famous personalities who contributed to Russian fashion. For example, a Frenchman by birth, Rene Brisac, created the most famous fashion house in St. Petersburg. And Olga Bulbenkova created a workshop where luxurious dresses were made, where even the outfits of the empresses of that time were sewn. There were many more fashion designers in the Russian Empire.

Conclusion

The beginning of the twentieth century brought about significant changes in fashion. The heaviness and closedness of the outfits was replaced by simplicity and lightness. Ladies stopped wearing uncomfortable corsets, dresses became shorter, lighter, tighter, with a less pronounced waist, but remained just as feminine and beautiful in the Art Nouveau style. Even the decorations were simplified, but the decor of dresses and hats remained very diverse and interesting: various laces, beads, feathers, ribbons.

At the beginning of the 20th century, there was a peak when large fashion houses and great designers became known all over the world, who amazed fashionistas from all over the world with their collections and outfits.

Russian fashion has adopted a lot from European fashion, but european fashion I took a lot from the Russian. For example, coats trimmed in Slavic style.

Significant changes occurred, followed by subsequent fashion "revolutions" of the 20th century, thanks to which we today see clothes as they are: simple and comfortable.

Today I was looking through various retro photographs that depicted the history of people’s lives, and then I thought that it would be nice to look at photographs that related to fashion, to see how it changed, how, interestingly, fashionable girls dressed then. And I decided, why not make a review of fashion by decade. Let me make a reservation right away that I will not give examples of women who were popular at a certain time; it is better to pay special attention to them. Let's just discuss fashion.

Let's start with the 10s of the 20th century.

Corsets have been holding women back for years, making their figures much more beautiful and graceful, and making life harder. The inability to inhale and exhale once again, constant illnesses due to too tightly tightened “shells” - all this made the corset, although a significant item of the era, very unpleasant.
Therefore, in 1906, women all over the world literally exhaled - a couturier named Paul Poiret first proposed wearing dresses of a simple cut, without corsets. Very soon, such dresses came into fashion - that is why the tenth years are remembered as the years of “liberation” of women from the oppression of one of the most inconvenient items of clothing, and Paul Poiret became a real savior for ladies of high society.

In the tens, Russian chic was in fashion - the “Russian Seasons”, which were brought to Paris by the famous Sergei Diaghilev, were a huge success. Ballet, opera, visual arts, exhibitions - all this was accompanied by a huge number of receptions at which our ladies could learn the art of haute couture from Parisians.

It was then that all the now familiar attributes of “chic life” in the wardrobe began to come into fashion - women bared their shoulders, began to wear very boudoir-looking toilets, decorating them with a huge number of feather fans, precious jewelry and shiny accessories.
We smoothly move on to the fashion of the 20s

During this period, sports and male sports figures entered fashion with confident steps, while female forms began to gradually lose relevance and popularity. The ideal is a thin lady with narrow hips, without the slightest hint of a bust or other roundness. The famous Gabrielle Chanel can be called a fashion reformer and revolutionary of this period. Along with her, fashionable clothes were created in such fashion houses as Nina Ricci, Chanel, Madame Paquin, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionnet, Jacques Doucet, Jacques Heim, Lucille”, fur fashion house “Jacques Heim” and others.

Egyptian motifs began to come into fashion in the 1920s. The designers' models were decorative, with an abundance of decorations and embroidery in the zig-zag style. This style was called “Art Deco”, and came from the name of the exhibition of modern decorative and industrial art in Paris in 1925.

It was a style of decorating and adorning things. Decorative elements were present on furniture, kitchen utensils, and women's dresses.

Shoes trimmed with embroidery or appliqués, decorated to the taste of popular couturiers of that time, came into fashion. "Art Deco" is an eclectic style in which African abstract exoticism is mixed with the geometric forms of cubism; non-traditional inexpensive and simple materials are mixed with expensive traditional materials of good quality.

Such a combination of incompatible things, mixed in one style.

As a result, the fashion features of the 20s:
- the main elements of clothing are, of course, dresses, straight-cut suits;
- pleating is in fashion;
- a fashionable straight-cut coat tapering towards the bottom and with a fur collar;
- pajama pants and pajamas are in fashion, which were worn to the beach at that time;
- the first swimsuits for women appeared - a revolution in beach fashion;
- clothes were made from more affordable fabrics and knitwear became a discovery;
- sporty style is in fashion, not only trousers, but also shorts are appearing;
- the appearance of the classic Chanel little black dress.

30s fashion

During these times, the cutting of clothes became more complex. The quality of mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing has improved markedly. Hollywood is a trendsetter in the USA. But even here, companies began to appear that traded using catalogs sent by mail. These companies distributed new fashion models in millions of copies.

Long skirts became the standard of fashion during the crisis times of the thirties. In 1929, Jean Patou was the first to propose Long Dresses and skirts whose waistline was in place. After this innovation, all fashion houses lengthened their models in two stages. At first, the length of dresses and skirts reached mid-calf, and a little later dropped almost to the ankle. Ladies who follow fashion trends independently lengthened their clothes. They sewed on wedges and various frills.

A very popular piece of clothing in the 1930s was the women's street suit, which came in a wide variety of variations. Outerwear– coats and jackets were distinguished by their extraordinary elegance and variety of styles.

Each type of clothing, including a suit, was characterized by a wide variety of shaped lines and finishes. The cut of suits became more complex and began to rely on geometry, giving the silhouette clarity.

Decorative details and decorations were widely used in the costume. A hat, handbag, gloves and shoes - that's what should have been in the same color scheme. Accessories were selected very strictly. As a rule, they were black or Brown, and in summer - white.

Accessories selected in this way easily matched any dress or suit, which was relevant during the crisis. In the fashion of the 30s, accessories played a huge role. After all, most women of those years could not afford anything else except a hat or a handbag.

40s fashion

The dominant fashion trend of the early 40s was layering. long skirts, huge bows on clothes, sometimes with the addition of a vertical stripe, puffed sleeves. It is worth noting that at that time, striped clothing was the most popular. As war broke out and the world became militarized, fashion in the 1940s underwent significant changes. Women no longer have time to think about makeup and replenishing their wardrobe.

In this period appearance outfits were significantly simplified to minimalism in everything. Natural fabrics ceased to be used for civilian purposes. Clothes for women began to be produced and sewn from acetate silk and viscose.

Floral designs are coming back into fashion: ornaments and small flowers have become the main decoration of fabrics and dresses made from this material. It became impossible to sew blouses and shirts from white fabric, so cuffs and collars began to be introduced into fashion. The military style, which is still popular today, became a discovery of the war period.

At the same time, a new shoe model was released: shoes with stiletto heels.

Also new was the production of turtleneck blouses; these models with a high turtleneck deservedly received recognition from the fashionistas of those times.

50s fashion

In the post-war years, social differences became noticeably worse. Wives again turned into a symbol of the well-being of their spouses, as a kind of showcase for others. A mandatory ritual for every woman is visiting a hair salon and applying makeup. The ideal woman, even if she did not work anywhere and was a housewife, had to be fully prepared already early in the morning: with a perfect hairstyle, in heels and makeup, stand at the stove or vacuum the carpet.

Even in the Soviet Union, where the lifestyle was significantly different from the Western one, it was customary to have your hair styled at a hairdresser or perm at least once a week, which also began to become fashionable with particular rapidity.

The '50s style contrasted the hourglass silhouette with the crisp, wide-shouldered silhouette that was popular during the war years. Thus, special requirements were placed on the figure: sloping shoulders, thin waist, rounded feminine hips and lush breasts.

To meet these standards, women wore constriction corsets, placed fabric or cotton wool in their bras, and tightened their bellies. The images of beauty of those times were: Elizabeth Taylor, Lyubov Orlova, Sophia Loren, Klara Luchko, Marilyn Monroe.

Among the young population, the standards were Lyudmila Gurchenko and others. Fashionable and stylish woman style of the 50s, the silhouette resembled a flower: fluffy skirt to the floor, under which they wore a multi-layered petticoat, high stiletto heels, and seamed nylon stockings. Stockings were a must-have accessory to complete the look and were extremely expensive. But women went to great lengths to look attractive and feel like beauties who follow fashion trends. It was difficult to buy fabrics at that time; no more than a certain amount of them was sold per person, approved by the norms of those times. To sew one skirt to fit the “new silhouette”, it took from nine to forty meters of material!

60s fashion

The legendary 60s are the brightest decade in the history of world fashion, free and expressive, a period of solemn procession of the so-called youth fashion. The new style needed new hairstyles. And again London was ahead of Paris in terms of innovative ideas. In 1959, the French film Babette Goes to War with Brigitte Bardot in the title role was released. A casually tousled hairstyle with a backcomb, despite the fact that it takes fashionistas a lot of time to create it, is becoming super popular.

Accessories became very popular: necklaces made of large beads, voluminous jewelry, “macro” that covered half of the face.

The most scandalous clothing of the sixties was born in London - the miniskirt, a symbol of emancipation and the sexual revolution. In 1962, the legendary Mary Quant showed her first collection of mini-length items. The new style, called “London style,” very quickly conquered young people around the world.

The 60s are the era of synthetics and everything artificial. Synthetic fabrics widespread in mass fashion - they are considered the most comfortable and practical, as they do not wrinkle and are easy to wash, in addition, they are cheap.

The fashion of that time favored unnaturalness - false eyelashes, wigs, hairpieces, costume jewelry. Women's high boots with low heels, with a narrow or wide rounded toe made of leather or synthetic material, called go-go. Boots became widespread with the emergence of fashion for mini lengths and the dance style of the same name.
Fashion of the late 1960s was influenced by the hippie movement. Youth opposed social and class differences, racial discrimination and war. With their appearance, hippies emphasized their rejection of the norms of official culture. Their clothes are deliberately careless and even sloppy - ripped jeans, beaded bracelets, fabric shoulder bags. The sexlessness of the appearance is emphasized, long hair symbolizes freedom.

70s fashion

In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, it can be said that it was in those years that people had more means to express themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction; everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

The motto of the 70s was the expression “Anything is possible!” The couturiers presented several styles for progressive and active young people to choose from, none of which could be called dominant. The most fashionable element The wardrobe became jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time were A-line skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, A-line dresses, and shirt dresses.

In addition, it should be noted that clothes have become more comfortable and practical. The concept appeared basic wardrobe, consisting of the required number of things that are combined with each other. As for shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.

Among the designers in the 70s, Sonia Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonia Rykiel created convenient, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses made of woolen knitwear and mohair.

80s fashion

The fashion of the 80s intertwined retro images, reinterpreted by designers, as well as those born of youth subcultures, music and dance trends, and the ongoing boom in sports.

Hip-hop, gothic, post-punk, rave, house, techno, breakdancing, snowboarding, skateboarding, rollerblading, step aerobics - all these phenomena were reflected in the style of the decade.

The list of iconic items from the decade of stylistic revelry is impressive - padded shoulders, banana trousers, military and safari style clothing, kimono, batwing and raglan sleeves, leggings with bright patterns, black fishnet tights, frayed denim, so-called, Varenka, black leather jackets, lurex, massive jewelry, jewelry buttons on jackets, voluminous hairstyles or styling with the effect “ wet hair", cascading haircuts, spiral perm, hair of decorative colors, such as "eggplant", highlighting with "feathers". A lot of cosmetics were used in deliberate shades with sparkles and mother-of-pearl.

The massiveness of the 1980s can be described as excess. Everything is, as it were, “too” - too narrow, too voluminous, too flashy, too bright. In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decorative elements enjoyed success: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

90s fashion

The 90s style in clothing, which has become universal, is better called not a style, but a new approach to choosing clothes. Because in the fashion of the 90s, the very principle of creating your image changes, as well as the principle used in creating a costume. The main call of the nineties is “be who you are!” In those days, special importance was given to denim clothes- only the lazy did not wear it. Avid fashionistas managed to wear jeans with denim shirts, bags and boots. So the style of the 90s can be safely called “denim”, since every person had more than one copy of a similar thing.

In the nineties, unisex fashion spread all over the world: jeans with a T-shirt or loose-fitting trousers with a sweater, complemented by comfortable shoes.

The nineties were the time of sneakers and flats. This unisex style is very popular with large Italian and American companies, such as Banana Republic, Benetton, Marko Polo. Costumes strive for simplicity and functionality, which, however, revives the traditions of partner art, when, along with strict asceticism, the costume contains deliberate theatricality with a bright range of colors. Fashion changes depending on social orientation and territoriality, so in Europe bohemians prefer conceptual designer clothes.

The main fashion emphasis of the nineties was not on clothes, but on its owner. Fashionable image created by a slender figure with tanned or milky-white skin. Body culture is flourishing as in the times of Ancient Greece. Fashionistas and fashionistas not only visit sports clubs, which appeared thanks to them, but also actively visit beauty parlors and even use the services of plastic surgery. Supermodels with fashion catwalks become role models; television and fashion magazines made a significant contribution to this.

Well. This concludes the review. I would like to say that of all times, my preferences are closer to the 30s, 50s and 70s. In general, everything new is long-forgotten old.

It was marked in history as a bright page that dramatically changed the development of the fashion industry. Beginning in 1920, women turned to a more comfortable and open style. The movement of women's emancipation continued and this was reflected in their appearance.

Early 20th century fashion: the origins of style

In Europe, already in the twenties of the last century, women began to wear trousers and short skirts! The trousers turned out to be such comfortable clothes that many women, especially young people, liked them.

Despite its popularity, the new style did not immediately embrace everyone; some women remained relatively conservative until 1925. Short skirts, low waist - this revolutionary style conquered Europe and America completely only in the second half of the twenties. Echoing across Europe, the new style also had an impact on Russia. Russian fashionistas have always followed fashion shows in Paris and tried to keep up with the West. Eccentric young ladies of that period are vividly depicted in the novels of Ilf and Petrov (12 chairs, The Golden Calf)

Early 20th century fashion: dresses

Dresses of that time, unlike the last decade, were supposed to emphasize youth and elegance. At the same time, to replace large hats, brimless hats appeared and immediately became very popular. Women of all classes wore such mini-hats.

This style of clothing lasted until the early thirties; during the “Great Depression” (simply put, the crisis), more conservative trends appeared. Skirts became a little longer and the natural waist became an important part of the dress, giving women a softer, more feminine look. Although some things from the twenties (for example, bell hats and bobbed hair) remained in the thirties.

Early 20th century fashion: innovation

The decade of the thirties of the last century introduced an innovation: for the first time, the true difference between daytime and evening fashion was shown. While in the twenties a woman could wear a dress all day, in the thirties evening dresses appeared.

In pre-crisis times unemployed woman could wear the same outfit both for a walk during the day and for receiving guests in the evening, then during inflation material problems arose (I had to give up servants and do housework myself) and these problems forced many women to wear more practical and cheap clothes during the day, and elegant in the evening. Evening dresses became more luxurious and distinguished different segments of the population.

This period is characterized by the appearance of synthetic fabrics, and they pushed aside the usual cotton, but silk continued to be the main fabric for most fashion designers and a favorite among customers.

Everything has its own story - individual and unique. Painting, music, literature, cinematography, fashion, went through their formation through long years, and found their adherents today. Fashion is always on top, its army of fans is innumerable, it skillfully wins the hearts of people and famously manages their wallets. Considering the history of fashion of the 20th century, it should be said that it is multifaceted and diverse, so it would be correct to consider certain of its stages in turn.

Fashion history of the early 20th century

The designer who revolutionized the fashion of the 20th century and introduced a new wardrobe item to the masses became famous; it was she who put men's formal trousers on women, which changed the idea of ​​women's style upside down. The history of fashion of the 20s-30s took its formation under the auspices of emancipation, not only dressing women in trouser suits, but also changing the cut, making it oblique, which made the woman’s figure more perfect. In addition, the 20s should be highlighted because of their diversity. Flashy, even vulgar outfits, glitter, chic, nudity - all this seemed like a kind of courage and created a cabaret atmosphere.

History of fashion development of the 20th century

The military years of the 30s and 40s, due to their characteristics and a difficult period for many nations, replaced the pretentiousness of the 20s with simplicity and restraint of clothes. The prerogative belonged to comfortable and practical clothing. In the 50s, the world was in anticipation of a wonderful future, which simply had to come to replace such a difficult 40s, so images and figures in the form of an hourglass came into fashion. It was important to emphasize the waist, wear a deep neckline, decorate clothes with prints and rhinestones, and also emphasize the elegance of women's legs with high heels. Here he became a legendary designer, returning sophistication and sophistication to women.

The fashion of the 60s is the heyday of hippie culture: street youth motifs, bright colors, convenience of outfits. It was in the legendary 60s that the unisex style and mini, which is still beloved to this day, appeared. The 70s followed with neon disco colors, flashy makeup and jewelry. In addition, the 70s are characterized by Italian femininity and elegance: three-piece suits with trousers or a skirt, feminine blouses and jackets.

In the 80s, fashionistas paid tribute to the current loose outfits that looked like a solid bag. Fashion trends of the 90s allowed a lot, so some fashionistas from the 90s crossed the permitted line and looked too much. The main thing that was characteristic of fashion in the 90s was the call to be yourself. This is such a bright and memorable history of fashion of the 20th century!