Brief description of skin types. Types of genuine leather Cattle leather with pull up coating

Leather is made by tanning animal hides, turning the hide into a durable, durable material. Leather in the usual sense is not yet leather until it undergoes the tanning procedure.

Aniline leather

The most expensive type of leather due to the selection of exclusive skins. The leather is dyed in special baths and does not have any pigment coating. This allows the skin to breathe. Each aniline leather product is unique. On its surface you can see unique marks that can tell a lot about yourself.

Pros: The most natural type skin. Very soft and gentle to the touch. Stays warm and cozy winter and cool and breathable in summer.

Cons: This leather does not have a protective coating, so it absorbs moisture well, and is also prone to staining and fading. This can be avoided by following our year-round skin care plan.

The illustration shows the raw surface of the leather without any protective coating.

Semi-aniline leather

This type of leather is identical to aniline leather, but has a thin protective layer applied to it to help resist stains. Some of the natural markings on the leather are still noticeable, but not as much as on aniline leather.

Pros: This leather is easy to clean and maintain. It is pleasant, soft to the touch, and has natural markings. Often available in two colors.

Cons: There are no major cons other than it looks less natural than aniline leather.

The surface of semi-aniline leather is covered with a thin layer of pigment.

Dyed leather

This type of leather is dyed by spraying a special dye, so it is evenly colored and perfectly protected from dirt and moisture. Very often, such leather first undergoes an embossing procedure, during which its surface is given a special texture.

Pros: This leather is wear-resistant. It is easy to clean and maintain in proper condition. The paint is evenly distributed on the surface and all “defects” of the skin are hidden.

Cons: This leather hardly breathes. The artificial texture of the surface makes it look less natural.

A thick layer of pigment is applied to the surface of dyed leather.

BiCast

This leather is covered with a thin polyurethane film. It is wear-resistant and easy to clean.

Pros: Baycast leather is easy to clean and maintain. It has a uniform color and high resistance to sunlight.

Cons: There is no natural texture on the surface, so the skin does not look very natural. It is tactilely reminiscent of plastic and practically does not breathe, which causes discomfort when used in the summer.

A polyurethane film is glued to the surface of the Baycast leather.

Pull-Up

Very natural skin type. The leather is treated in such a way that it begins to look slightly worn over time as it lightens when stretched.

Pros: This leather has a natural appearance, soft and pleasant to the touch.

Cons: Difficult to clean and gets dirty easily. However, these problems can be avoided by following our Year-Round Skin Care Plan.

The picture shows leather well soaked in waxes and oils.

Nubuck

The leather is sanded, resulting in a fleecy surface.

Pros: The leather has a natural appearance, soft and pleasant to the touch.

Cons: Nubuck products are difficult to care for since the leather does not have a protective coating. It is highly susceptible to contamination. However, you can easily overcome these challenges if you follow our Year-Round Skin Care Plan.

Suede: This is a split leather material whose surface is sanded. In this case, the surface becomes fleecy. Unlike suede, nubuck is a sanded outer layer of leather. The surface of suede will always have a rougher texture, similar to carpet, and nubuck, similar to corduroy.

The leather is specially sanded to create a fleecy surface.

Split

The animal's skin is cut into several layers.

The top layer is called the front layer, the bottom layer is called split.

Split wood is not very strong, so it is used for the side and back segments of furniture upholstery, some elements of shoes, and workwear. Sometimes an artificial texture is applied to the split leather, and then it is covered with a layer of pigment.

Full-face and partial-face aniline leathers have characteristics that are acceptable and unique to each hide. These signs do not affect the comfort and use of the leather.

Aniline leather with natural grain.

This is the surface of the skin without any attempt to hide or disguise the animal's natural marks acquired during life. Healed scratches, insect bites, veins, age folds - all this makes up distinctive properties and the charm of “natural characteristics”.

1. Bites 2. Fat folds 3. Scratches from scratching 4. Salt stains 5. Dung burns 6. Warts 7. Scratches 8. Scars

Aniline (semi-aniline) leathers with a partially corrected face.

This leather is coated with a small amount of pigment to make the color uniform and hide minor imperfections, this gives a little protection to the leather.

The natural grain pattern varies from hide to hide, or even within the hide itself it can vary.

Fat folds

Scratches

Different grain sizes

Natural facial structure

Operation and care of natural furniture leather.

Although leather is a durable and surprisingly easy-to-handle material, it can be damaged by heat, exposure to direct sunlight, and cleaning agents not intended for use on it. When caring for furniture from genuine leather It is not recommended to use solvent, acetone, washing powder. It is better to wipe the skin damp soft cloth. Please remember that stains must be removed immediately. Leather furniture will always look good if it is treated once or twice a year with a special leather cleaner (you should first try it on a small area of ​​leather in an inconspicuous place). Dyed textile materials may affect light skin color.

Don't let it rise pets on a leather sofa, as sharp claws can scratch the leather. In addition, saliva and other animal secretions can damage the facial layer of skin.

ATTENTION! It also has a harmful effect on the skin sweat (high acidity) a person, which can lead to the destruction of the facial layer of natural leather.

Although leather is a durable and surprisingly easy-to-handle material, it can be damaged by heat, common cleaning products and exposure to direct sunlight, causing it to lose its original appearance. appearance. Avoid placing leather furniture in the sun and near heating radiators and other sources of high temperature. The distance should be at least 30-40 cm.

Avoid excessive friction and wipe leather furniture with light movements. The surface of the leather should not be rubbed with anything harsh - no powders or shoe brushes! Otherwise, you may scratch the upholstery or damage its protective coating.

Residues of food products must be removed immediately, rather than waiting until they dry, using a damp cloth or sponge soaked in soapy water.

Sand or dirt from clothing can damage the outer surface of the upholstery material (leather).

Sea water upon contact with the natural leather of the sofa, it can damage the top protective layer (loss of the original appearance).

Care of semi-aniline and patent leathers.

Stains and liquid. Never wait for a puddle to dry on its own. Immediately blot up excess moisture with a soft cloth or sponge. If particularly necessary, the stain can be gently wiped with a soft damp cloth or sponge soaked in warm soapy water. Then wipe dry woolen fabric. Before using as directed, wait until the skin is completely dry.

Animal and vegetable oils and fats. Remove stains with a clean, dry cloth. Avoid the use of aggressive substances - stain removers, cleaning solvents, turpentine, furniture varnish, oils, drying oils, abrasive cleaners and any other chemical solutions. You can use suitable products to care for these more protected types of leather. We recommend wax-based products designed for the care of furniture leather. Regular treatment keeps the leather soft and prevents it from drying out. Treatment is simple: shake the bottle thoroughly, apply a few drops and rub with a soft, damp cloth. Then immediately wipe off any residue with a dry cloth.

Caring for aniline leather.

Stains and liquid. Immediately remove excess liquid with a clean absorbent cloth. Allow the remaining moisture to dry naturally. Never use a hair dryer to dry a wet area.

Animal and vegetable oils and fats. Eliminate excess animal or vegetable oil or grease with a clean, dry cloth and leave as is. Soon the stain will be absorbed into the skin on its own. Do not use water or attempt to remove such stains. Avoid the use of soap, cleaning solvents, furniture varnish, oils, drying oils, abrasive cleaners, detergents, ammonia water or any other chemical solutions. As a rule, insufficient care is less dangerous for the skin than excess. It is enough to clean aniline leather thoroughly once a year. First wipe the furniture with damp chamois using non-alkaline soap, dissolved in warm distilled water. Be careful not to get your skin too wet and don't use regular tap water, as it often contains limescale and can leave stains or white circles. Use a clean piece of suede that has not been used before. It is not advisable to use an old piece of suede, because it may contain residues of methyl alcohol, sand and dust, which can ruin the leather. Then wipe the furniture with boiled water to remove any remaining soap. When the skin is completely dry, use a soft cloth with a few drops of castor oil. Use no more than 6-8 drops per square meter of skin. Instead of a non-alkaline soap solution, you can also use any passed the tests leather cleaner following the directions on the package. NEVER spray product supplied as a neutral gas propellant aerosol directly onto the skin. Apply the foam to a damp sponge and spread it over the area to be cleaned. After this, you can treat the surface with a product that gives the leather moisture- and dirt-repellent properties. One treatment every six months provides good protection. Before use, read and follow the directions on the aerosol container.

If it is impossible to remove any contaminants on the skin, do not try to remove them using physical friction or cleaning agents! In this case, you need to contact specialized organizations!

Any specialized leather care products should be tested on the upholstery leather sample included with the sofa.

Well-known companies selling cleaning products, repair and restoration of leather are Leatherdoctor, Leathermaster, le-tech.ru, Lederzentrum.

Upon contact with low-quality textiles the color of natural leather is possible, as well as the presence of metal inserts in clothing (zippers, rivets, etc.) can also lead to damage to upholstery materials.

The effect of negative temperature on the skin.

After transporting the skin low temperatures, when it arrives at the warehouse, it is necessary to keep the leather to room temperature to prevent damage to the outer layer, since the leather contains a natural amount of moisture.
If the Buyer decides to ship and transport leather goods at low temperatures, we recommend using a thermal truck for transportation purposes, which ensures a positive temperature inside the body (trailer) throughout the entire time of transportation of the goods. If vehicles that do not meet these recommendations are used to transport leather goods under the specified weather conditions, the use of leather goods after transportation is possible only after 48 hours of continuous storage of the leather goods in packaged form at a temperature of 15-25 C and a relative humidity of 50-80%.
We strongly draw your attention to the fact that when transporting leather goods at an ambient temperature of -20C or lower, the quality of such goods may deteriorate during transportation and subsequent use in production.

TERMINOLOGY.

Aniline leather- leather dyed with organic dyes with minimal technological processing.

Aniline dyeing is the process of soaking leather in clear aniline dyes, which colors the leather or gives it a specific shade without hiding its natural marks or characteristic facial features of the leather. Over the entire surface, the skin is covered with a non-pigmented membrane.

Aniline leather is the highest quality of all leathers. It is characterized by marks caused by nature, such as scars and different color shades. It is this type of leather that is more sensitive and prone to patination (acquiring an antique look) during use.

Semi-aniline and aniline-plus leathers (SEMI-ANILINE LEATHER).

These terms denote an additional step in addition to aniline dyeing. A layer of maximum dispersed pigments and dyes is applied to the surface of leather dyed with aniline dyes. By dyeing the leathers all over before the final coating, a very uniform color can be achieved by only adding a thin layer of finishing without making the leather tougher. Natural grain, low pigment content. Advantages: compared to CORRECTED GRAIN LEATHER they are warmer, easily adapt to body temperature, “breathable” since the pores are not closed.

Leather with corrected facial surface (CORRECTED GRAIN LEATHER).

This is skin with a fully corrected face. The leather undergoes very careful processing: all irregularities are covered with a special putty, dried, then sanded, filled with pigment and sanded again. As a result, the surface is flat and smooth, almost flawless.

Next, the surface of the skin is treated with a polymer coating that protects it from moisture and pollution. Finally, embossing is applied to the smooth surface of the leather using rollers. High performance properties.

Automotive leather collections -

Technical characteristics of leathers with corrected facial surface (pigmented) leathers.

Raw material: USA/SA/EURO Average size: from 3.4 / 4.8 m2 Description: the classic corrected grain leather
PROPERTY		TEST METHOD	REQUIREMENT
2. Tensile strength
3. Elongation at break
4. Tear strength
5. Flexing endurance (after 20,000 flex)
6. Color fastness to artificial light (Xenotest) 72 hours
7. Color fastness to rubbing N° 500 dry rubs
8.Fire resistance			Autoextinguishing without flame propagation
CHEMICAL ANALYSIS
PROPERTY			REQUIREMENT
Chrome contents as Cr2O3)
Solubility in dichloromethane (Fats and other solvents)
Ph of aqueous extracts

Split leather (COW SPLIT LEATHER).

The bottom layer of leather has no natural grain and can be smooth or embossed. Made from the skins of cows and bulls.

P.U. LEATHER (BYCAST)

The bottom layer of leather is polyurethane coated, smooth or embossed.

Split leather, covered with a special polyurethane film and subject to light stamping natural face. The film coating hides the main possible defects on the skin, which is important when cutting leather and has high protective properties, including passing the “cigarette” test. It is better to use this leather on furniture models with straight shapes, since BY CUST does not drape well.

PULL-UP LEATHER.

Pull-up - articles obtained by applying special fats and oils to the surface of a polished crust. As a rule, the color of the coating mixture is darker than the background color of the crust. The specificity of this article is that in places of bending or tension, the leather changes color. The most common option on the market is pull-up Brown, on beige or yellow crust, with a greasy or waxy fingerboard, more than 1.4 mm thick. The main use is for men's boots.

Layers of skin

After initial processing, the leather has a thickness of 3-4 mm and can be used:
- either completely
- or can be cut horizontally into several layers (sections) - Full Grain Leather, Top Grain Leather, Genuine Leather

Full Grain
Skin with full structure, i.e. skins with a preserved natural face, on its surface the natural marks of the animal acquired during its life are preserved. Healed scratches, insect bites, veins, age folds - all this makes up the distinctive properties and charm. The upper “living” layer of skin is about 2 mm thick, the part of the skin to the depth of which the pores extend. One of the most valuable and expensive
layers of skin. This cut of leather has, with appropriate processing, excellent heat and moisture exchange characteristics, as well
high resistance to mechanical damage (scratches), color fastness, and also does not stretch much (the fibers are vertical). The staining time for this section is from 12 to 14 days.
Due to the fact that the pores pass through the entire thickness of this section, this skin is dyed to its entire depth (dye molecules penetrate the walls of the pores to the entire thickness of the layer).
Top Grain
Skins with a preserved natural face with less pronounced natural marks of the animal. This is also a “living” layer of skin, which is obtained when the top 1.5 mm of skin is cut off, it is strong, durable. It has increased operational resistance to mechanical, physical and chemical influences. This skin is one and a half times thinner than skin Full Grain, so it stretches better and has a very nice, soft, “warm” surface. The dyeing time for this cut is 6-7 days. The most common layer in the manufacture of furniture, automobile, and haberdashery leathers.
Genuine Leather
When the Top Grain is cut off, a portion of the pore (approximately one third) remains in the skin. This part + the “dead” part
layer" that does not contain pores is called Genuine Leather. This is not yet a completely “dead layer” of skin, which
practically does not breathe, but it is not a 100% “living” layer either. The thickness of this layer is 1.2-1.5 mm, so the pores are only halfway through.
Accordingly, the dye and processing agents penetrate 50% of the thickness of this layer. Due to the fact that the pores do not pass through
full thickness, this leather has less stretch than Top Grain, but it is also tougher. The staining time for this section is 6-7 days. The surface is smooth or rough (reminiscent of suede). Used in the production of haberdashery leather and furniture leather.

Buffalo leather-in terms of its main characteristics, it is very close to bull, but the skins have an even larger size and an interesting “harvested” texture. Unfortunately, this skin type is not very common in Russia.

Bychina— its thickness, unlike calfskin, is 2.5-5 mm, and the size of the skins can exceed 2.5 m2. Traditionally it is called “saddlery”. Initially, it was used for the production of saddles, harnesses and other elements of harness. Currently, bull meat is used, as a rule, to make denim belts, ethnic-style bags, trunks and backpacks. This type of leather is better suited for manual and mechanical embossing than others. Due to the thickness and strength of the leather, products made from it can last almost forever.

Velours(French velours - velvet, from Latin villosus - hairy, shaggy) - leather made from pork, less often sheep skins, chrome-tanned with the front surface processed by grinding. This leather is tucked under the suede on the reverse side. This material can be equally soft and thin, or hard and thick, it all depends on the processing technology. Used for making shoe uppers, clothing and leather goods.

Collar (shoulder, neck)- a section of skin located between the head part and the saddle cloth.

Outgrowth— the skin of a calf that has switched to plant food and changes its primary hair during the process of molting. The quality of the leather is worse than that of the felt, the weave of the fibers is weaker. The finished leather is smooth, thick, with a beautiful measure, but not as full as opoek. Shoe uppers and leather goods are made from it.

Smooth skin— made from the highest quality raw materials, not polished. Only the fur is removed. The pores of the skin remain in their natural state: the skin “breathes” and, at the same time, the service life of the product increases. Products made from this type of leather are more wear-resistant. During wear, a natural “patina” appears on the surface of the product and it becomes more beautiful every year. The highest quality furniture and shoes are made from smooth leather.

Chamois leather— fat-tanned leather (i.e., raw hides that have been subjected to preliminary preparation. During tanning, they are impregnated with fats). Used for making shoes, gloves, haberdashery, outerwear, jackets, skirts, and also as a filtering and polishing material. High-quality shoe suede is obtained from the skins of deer calf, outgrowth and Russian short-tailed sheep, technical - from the sheepskins of Russian long-tailed sheep, rubbing - from the skins of adult deer, Russian sheepskin. Suede has high ductility and porosity, which makes it highly breathable. Suede is particularly soft, which it retains not only after soaking in water, but also after washing in soapy water, which is why Suede is also called “washable leather”. This material is less wear resistant than smooth skin and requires careful care.

Laika (kid)- aluminum-tanned leather made from the skins of lambs and kids.

Since ancient times, the production of wood has been developed in France, from where it was transferred first to Germany and then to other European countries. France still holds the first place in the production of aluminum, in addition, now this production has received significant development in Germany and Austria.

In Russia, L. production is limited in size. L., used almost exclusively for gloves, must be strong and stretchable, while at the same time soft, and the front side must be white, clean and shiny. The surface of the measure should be smooth, without wrinkles.

Patent leather or leather with a glossy surface (patent leather, enamelled leather). This leather processing process was developed by Newark, New Jersey, which was based on an invention by Seth Boyden (1818). This effect is achieved by painting skins in different colors and applying thin synthetic films to their surfaces under the influence of high temperatures. Thanks to modern technologies, this type of processing is not inferior to traditional ones in either strength or durability.

Mereya (grain)- a pattern on the front surface of dressed leather. There are natural (based on belonging to a specific animal species) and artificial measures (applied by embossing).

Aniline leather (Nappa) This is the name for soft and elastic natural leather, in addition to which the area of ​​its application is indicated, for example, aniline shoe leather, for sewing outerwear, furniture, automobile leather, etc. Today, the term nappa leather does not mean leather of a certain tanning and origin.

Nubuck— fine-haired chrome-tanned leather with the front surface sanded with fine-grained abrasive materials (for example, sand).

It is used for the manufacture of haberdashery, parts of shoe uppers and upholstery of upholstered furniture.

Most often, it is even less protected from dirt and greasing than suede. Nubuck requires careful attention, especially in the first month of wearing. Nubuck, like a sponge, absorbs any moisture and it will be good if you are especially careful during this period. Later it goes away. Remember that light-colored nubuck items darken over time, and dark-colored items become lighter. Nubuck is durable and wear-resistant, with proper care.

There are: natural nubuck, artificial nubuck, nubuck-oil.

Natural nubuck made from genuine leather. It has a weak pile on the front surface, which gives the skin a good appearance - it becomes velvety. Nubuck leather is made of genuine leather and has good breathability. The disadvantages of this leather include low wear resistance and the need for product care. Products made from natural nubuck must be cleaned with special products.

Artificial nubuck or synthetic is much cheaper than nubuck made from genuine leather. This is a multilayer polymer material that has a velvety structure and is similar in appearance to natural nubuck. Synthetic nubuck, unlike natural nubuck, does not absorb water and has higher wear resistance.

Nubuck-oil- This is nubuck, which was protected from moisture during the production process by treating it with fat impregnation. Nubuck is soft and velvety to the touch, while oil nubuck is damp to the touch and heavier than regular nubuck. It is more wear-resistant and unpretentious than regular nubuck.

Opoek- the skin of a young suckling calf still living on its mother's milk. The most valuable leather. The fibers are thin, elastic, dense weave. The hair of a calf is thicker, finer and more beautiful than that of an adult animal. Calf leather turns out soft, full, with a beautiful grain.

Deerskin- leather, in the process of tanning, which uses fat extracted from animal brains or other types of fats. The end result is an elastic suede-like material, usually heavily smoked, which prevents cell decomposition. This type of leather is commonly used to make briefcases and wallets.

Belt leather- smooth leather, which was originally used for the production of driving pulley belts. This type of leather is often used to make briefcases and wallets. It is quite thick, hard and smooth to the touch. Belt leather is the only type of leather used to make luxury products that can maintain its shape without the need for a frame. This material is heavier than smooth leather.

Split(split leather, split) - part of the skin (skin) obtained after splitting. There are front and melon splits. Shoe and furniture leather is made from thick and dense split grain of cattle by applying artificial measure and split velor for the production of clothing. Split leather velor is made from split pig skins for shoe production.

Morocco(goatskin, maroquin leather, saffian leather) - thin, soft leather of different colors, made by vegetable tanning, usually from goat skins, less often - the skins of sheep, calves and foals. Used mainly for the upper of national shoes. The secret of its production has been known in Russia since the 12th century. Currently not produced.

Cheprak(butt) - heavy, dense, thick leather produced by fat tanning from cattle hides taken from the back of the animal.

Shagreen(shagreen leather, shagreen, French chagrin) - a rough and porous rough type of untanned leather, made from the dorsal part of the skins of horses or kulans and usually dyed in green color. “Shagreen” these days is usually made from goat skins, sheep skins, as well as the skin of sharks and rays.

Chevrette(sheep skin, sheep leather) - dense, elastic leather made from sheep skins by chrome tanning. Used for shoe uppers and haberdashery. According to the pattern of the measure, it looks like a chevro.

Kid(glazed kid leather, chevreaux, goat leather) - soft, dense, durable leather, up to 60 dm2, made by chrome tanning from goat skins. On the surface it has a peculiar pattern in the form of small wrinkles. Used for shoe uppers.

Sanded leather and embossed leather— The fact is that skins often have many natural defects. Scratches from bushes and branches also remain on the skins; insects can bite through them. A hole is formed that no longer closes. These defects are removed during the production process by grinding, then some kind of coating is applied to make the surface smooth. Sanded leather must be dyed. Thanks to sanding, the well-known velor is obtained.

If there are still defects after grinding, embossing is applied. Large plates are used to press heated leather. By pressing, you can get a smooth surface and with a pattern (for example, dust-like - very small, or large, checkered - depending on the purpose of the skin).

Shora- dense, thick leather, produced by fat tanning from the skins of cattle, is more plastic than saddle cloth.

Yuft— (juff, Russian leather) thick leather produced by combined tanning from the skins of cattle, horse and pork skins taken from the belly of the animal, with a high content of fattening substances. Significantly softer and more flexible than saddle cloth or blinders. Used for shoe uppers.

Yalovka- cow leather. The skins of females are usually more valuable than those of males. The skin turns out sleeker, more elastic and firmer, the front side is smoother and more beautiful. Yalovka is suitable for making shoe uppers, soles, heels, welts, lining soles and light straps.

Cut out genuine leather.

The cutter examines the leather and notes any imperfections. He hangs the leather on a bracket at the workplace: on top - better quality and thicker leather, and underneath - worse quality and thinner. Colored leathers are hung so that there is a gradual transition from darker to lighter shades.

Fish and whole skins of a small area (except chevro) should be cut from the edge, and whole skins of a large area and half-skin should be cut from the rump. Leathers with a large crowded defect are cut out of the defect, observing the chosen system for placing parts over the area.

The critical parts on the saddle cloth are placed so that an approximately straight line is formed to the floors and collars to proceed to cutting the leather into less critical parts.

Small-area leathers (chevro, chrome-tanned pork, etc.) and semi-leathers are painted using a symmetrical laying system on both sides of the spine line. This system ensures the same thickness, ductility and density of the parts of each pair of upper blanks.

Affected areas of the skin should be avoided when cutting. If minor defects are allowed in some places of critical parts or on less critical parts, then such defects do not need to be avoided.

The models should be laid as closely as possible to each other and so that the direction of least ductility of the parts runs along the footprint of the shoe. Details on the leather saddle can be laid both longitudinally and transversely, as well as at an angle of 55-60 degrees. to the ridge line. When cutting tanned leathers, you should not lay the parts in the longitudinal direction to avoid uneven thickness.

Simultaneous external parts of the upper in a pair of shoes must be the same in size, thickness, density and have an even, uniform and durable color and uniform measure.

The details of the top and lining, depending on their purpose, should be cut out from certain zones and topographic areas of the skin in accordance with state standards and technical conditions. Leather parts for the upper and lining of shoes are cut using the through-cutting method, with the entire area of ​​leather being cut from start to finish by one worker. Leathers of the best quality can be cut without adhering to the principle of complete completeness, but taking into account the most appropriate use of topographical areas: the missing parts are cut out of individual leathers to complete the batch during the shift.

Details of the auxiliary cut cannot be cut out at the expense of the main one.

Leather for shoe uppers usually cut into parts that make up the kit. To ensure that the use of the saddle area does not deteriorate, sets of parts for several types of shoes are cut out in relationships that ensure the rational use of all topographic areas of the leather.

In the shoe industry a selective cutting method is used, in which first one worker (the main one) cuts out the most critical parts or individual sets of parts (for example, a cut for boots, sole parts made of hard leather), and then another worker cuts out less critical parts or sets of parts from the remaining part of the leather (for example, insoles, cut for boots or low shoes, auxiliary parts).

Cutting furniture and automobiles leather is similar to the process of cutting shoe leather. The difference is that for furniture cutting, whole cattle skins with a larger area are used.

The aesthetics of leather processing has developed by leaps and bounds and is changing daily for the better. Thus, several methods of processing delicate natural material have proven themselves, allowing us to obtain true leather material under beautiful names: nappa, pull-up, plonge, buffalo, suede and other types.

One of the most common materials used for cutting leather jackets is, of course, nappa. Nappa– this is a noble, well-dyed uniform tanned leather with high plasticity, finely porous, pleasant to the touch and quite soft. Belongs to the category of semi-aniline type of genuine leather with special impregnation against dirt. It behaves perfectly when worn, and can be presented in a smooth design or with perforation, which looks very elegant in the finished item. Nappa products in the collection of women's leather jackets in the Viavalento showroom are presented with a matte and glossy surface, in a classic cut, semi-fitting type.

Lacquered nappa is usually called - cry, that is, genuine leather with a special varnish coating applied to the outer layer. Very elastic, dense and durable natural material, with high resistance to external factors. Due to its elegant appearance, it is ideal for sewing exclusive expensive shoes and leather goods.

Pull-up – this is natural soft leather with natural folds and small veins, expressive on its surface due to a special method of dressing the material. Belongs to the group of skin without protective coating. It looks slightly aged due to the different shades of the leather surface, however, it is impregnated with the necessary paraffins and treated with colorless aniline oils. Pull-up products are usually of natural warm colors, without additional perforation or stitching, so as not to hide the natural beauty of the animal’s skin. This natural look requires quite careful care, as it absorbs water or can be scratched when pressed.

An interesting type of leather dressing is plonge , the most delicate skin with a varied external texture and multifaceted porosity, made mainly from European raw materials, it is very plastic and easy to work with. Available in a wide variety of colors and almost always matte shade. Sewing leather jackets from plonge is associated with pleasure and a full-fledged turn of the cutter’s imagination, because the more pliable the material, the easier it is to create ideal and unique things from it.

Suede . Beloved by many, suede is obtained by peeling the leather, followed by sanding the split leather to a fleecy velvety state, without applying a protective coating. For the production of suede, the skins of goat, ram, cow, young pigs, deer, even chamois and antelope are used. Real suede, of course, must be from deer or elk skins, produced by fat tanning raw hides. The leather turns out durable, despite its softness and peculiar looseness, with low double-sided pile, and a light aroma of leather. Suede with the smallest pile height has the best properties; it is also considered the highest quality. Color solutions for suede the most varied. The homogeneous matte pile is pleasant to the touch, it even seems that it warms the palm when stroking the skin. Products made from suede look noble, the fairly rich color attracts, and the velvet pile makes you close your eyes even to all the difficulties of wearing and caring for suede items.

Velours - cheaper polished leather, made from any type of defective leather on the front side, as a rule, from the skins of young cattle, pigs, and goat skins. Made by the chrome tanning method, this is an inverted leather with the underside of the bakhtarma - the pile is visible, with a smooth layer inside, unlike double-sided suede. Velor is non-porous, very monochromatic, leaves fingerprints when touched and does not smell like leather. It gets dirty and shiny more easily, gets wet quite quickly, so it is recommended to treat shoes protective equipment. However, it is very widely used in the headwear, haberdashery and footwear industries.

Nubuck – chrome-tanned leather sanded with fine abrasive particles, with a very fine-haired surface. For its production, young cattle skins are used. The absorbency is increased, so stains may remain after dampness. However, it is very soft and pleasant to the touch, breathes well, is very light and durable with proper care.

The method of leather dressing is very similar to suede - leather crack. Here, genuine leather is micro-polished, which helps maintain the strength of the material, and additional impregnation gives it a slightly glossy appearance. The unusual texture to the touch and long-term use have deservedly made it possible to sew excellent unique things from crack.

Buffalo - real cowhide with fine porosity and velvety, breathable, with a worn surface structure for real brutal things, simple cut and long-lasting wear. It darkens slightly in the finished product with everyday use, due to the absorption of open pores, but it is very durable. Leather jackets and raincoats made from it are status-conscious, calm, and seem to be inspired by the eternity of time.

By the way, there is also a type of dressing leather material with a thin polyurethane film applied to it - bykast. This skin is very resistant to influence external factors and is especially resistant to sunlight, does not fade, does not deform. There is no true animal pattern on the surface and it has a slightly plastic feel to the touch, but is easy to care for. It does not scratch and does not absorb water, that is, it is a type of leather with a protective coating.

In the Viavalento showroom you can also purchase a women's fur jacket Pony- an ultra fashionable material, noble, fine-pile, reminiscent of ivy fabric on a thin white base. This fur can be easily dressed, processed, sheared or even crimped and draped. Fur is like a second velvet skin, has high thermal conductivity, which allows you to sew from it, in addition to raincoats, jackets and vests, even summer clothes. Pony fur has a fairly rich range of colors. Absolutely black items made of pony fur shimmer in the light, creating beautiful reflections on the product. Our store presents a model of a shortened women's jacket with a small stand-up collar made of impressively stitched skins in full black.

A distinctive feature of any leather jacket– its universality and constancy over time, and its prevalence simply has no boundaries either in fashion or among age restrictions. This is a trend in the culture of all mankind, improving from generation to generation, from year to year.

The outerwear store-salon “Viavalento” in Saratov presents to your attention a collection of exquisite leather items in the most modern cut styles, from materials of various textures and magnificent colors.

One of the main requirements when choosing a bag is its durability. With active everyday use, the owner naturally expects that the purchased model will not change its shape, will not change its color, will not stain things, and will be quite durable. All this depends on the type of leather and the technology of its production.

Usually bags are made from various animal skins: cattle (buffalo, bull, veal), sheep, pigs. More exotic materials are often used - crocodile, snake, ostrich or stingray skin.

Accessories made from exotic leather are quite expensive and do not have a long service life, but their main task is to confirm the high status of the owner and attract attention.

Pigskin is practically not used in the production of bags and accessories, since it is quite tough and does not stretch well, and cracks also appear in it.

For everyday use, it is better to choose a bag made of bovine or calfskin; it is also marked with the abbreviation KRS. The thickness of this material is usually from 1 to 2.5 mm, which ensures its high strength. The leather looks good, and over time, a “patina” forms on the surface, which gives it a more sophisticated look. Sometimes you can find information about tanning - this is the process of impregnating leather with various tannins, this is necessary for the strength and ductility of future products.

Oiled nubuck is also a popular material for making bags. It has a fine fleecy feel to the touch, obtained by grinding with fine abrasive materials, which after grinding is impregnated with a special oil-based substance.

Smooth skin

Made from high-quality leather with a smooth texture, the skins of young cattle are used. When finishing, it is not sanded, only wool is removed - thus preserving natural look front surface. The pores remain in their natural state: the skin “breathes” and, at the same time, the service life of the product increases. Products made from this material are more wear-resistant. During wear, a natural “patina” appears on the surface of the product and it becomes more beautiful every year. The highest quality furniture, bags and shoes are made from this grade of leather.

Nappa leather

Nappa is a thin and soft semi-aniline tanned leather with good elasticity and an even shiny or matte color. This is a material with good decorative properties, which has many different options - nappa can be with special perforation or have a smooth surface. The only characteristic that remains unchanged is the reliability and high quality of such material.

This variety is produced from the skins of young and adult animals. The skins are double tanned, which also increases the softness of this type of leather. Nappa is an extremely soft and flexible material commonly used to make high-quality wallets, toiletry sets, and luxury business bags.

Cattle leather

Calfskin is considered the highest quality and most valuable. It is used to make shoes, clothing, belts, accessories, furniture upholstery, and is also an affordable and popular material for making bags. Production includes chrome and vegetable tanning. Accessories made from calfskin are very elegant and do not wear out for a long time.

The finishing process includes only light polishing - harsh impacts can damage its natural beauty. This grade does not crack at low temperatures, does not break at bends, has optimal softness, high strength characteristics and natural texture. A bag made of cattle leather can withstand heavy loads and “breathe” perfectly.

Buffalo leather

Buffalo leather - in its main characteristics is very close to bull, but the skins have an even larger size and an interesting “crinkled” texture. They are often vegetable tanned.

Pull-up leather

These are types of leather that have been treated with oils, waxes and dyes so that when stretched they become lighter. Considered a high quality variety, usually represented by the Ashwood Leather and Gianni Conti brands.

Leather Floter

Flotter (sometimes spelled Flotter) is soft drum-dyed leather with uniform padding. Resistant to wet and dry friction - an ideal material for sewing tote bags.

Leather Crust

Crust is leather with a natural drum dyed grain pattern (through dyeing) without additional surface treatment. High-quality crust is difficult to distinguish from smooth varieties.

Oiled leather

Oiled leather is a finely fleecy material that, after sanding, is impregnated with a special oil-based substance. The use of such leather in production is a distinctive feature of the Visconti brand.

Saffiano leather

Saffiano or as it is also called saffiano - calfskin with hot diagonal embossing. The design is applied using a special machine for 10-15 seconds at a temperature of 165 degrees Celsius. After treatment, it is covered with a special wax, which then protects it from scratches and dirt.