Mild shampoos: a guide to surfactants. Composition of a good shampoo - useful, harmful and useless components Surfactants in shampoos

In order to see which shampoos contain harmful substances, just go to any cosmetics store and pay attention to relatively cheap, but well-advertised brands. Despite the fact that on the packaging of these products, manufacturers indicate a phrase that is very beneficial for their business, such as “Restores hair structure”, “Nourishes from the very roots”, etc., in fact, almost all of these shampoos contain dangerous component number 1, namely Sodium Lauryl Sulphate.

SLS is the second ingredient listed in most shampoos. Being a cleaning agent and an excellent foaming agent, it is a cheap and easy to use component. Thanks to Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, one drop of the product is enough to get a rich foam. Many buyers believe that the amount of foam formed to some extent determines the quality of the product, but this is far from the case.

Frequent use of shampoos containing sodium lauryl sulfate may worsen the condition of the hair and cause excessive hair loss. On the one hand, the aggressive effect is to some extent muffled by some softening ingredients of the shampoo, but due to the toxicity of Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, many consumers began to pay attention to sulfate-free products.

The chemical composition of sodium lauryl sulfate allows this component to enter and accumulate in the tissues of the heart, liver and eyes. SLS impairs the body's metabolism and dries out the scalp, despite its benefit of actually removing oil and dirt from the hair.

As a result of research conducted at the Medical College of the University of Georgia, it became clear what properties sodium lauryl sulfate has. Here are some of them:

• SLS removes grease and dirt using surface oxidation. As a result of exposure to the substance, a kind of film remains on the skin, which, with prolonged contact, causes irritation, itching, allergies and even redness.
• SLS can change the protein composition of cells and worsen the immune system. It is not recommended for use for washing the hair of young children, as with prolonged exposure it can cause various diseases, including cataracts.
• When SLS enters the body through the pores of the scalp or body, it is practically not excreted by the liver.
• SLS eliminates not only grease and dirt, but also the natural hair film, which protects curls from environmental influences. Such strong degreasing stimulates the activity of the sebaceous glands, as a result of which the hair has to be washed even more often.
• SLS doesn't just make your hair dry, it dries it out, making it very brittle. If, when washing, the applied and foamed product is not washed off immediately, but waits for a while, the hair will begin to fall out excessively, and dandruff may occur.

Looking at the composition of shampoos, in the top five items you can see another component called laureth sulfate, it creates the illusion of an expensive product for the user, because with just a few hand movements it has the ability to create abundant foam. Cheap surface- active substances used in products such as bubble bath, shower gel, makeup remover, intimate hygiene gel, etc. It is very profitable for manufacturers to include SLS and SLES in their products, so about 90% of all shampoos contain these aggressive components, and continue to be in demand among buyers, although not among those who prefer safe products.

1. If you consider your skin to be sensitive, shampoos containing SLS and SLES are definitely not suitable for you. These components should also alert people with allergic skin, as well as use by young children.
2. If you use a product with SLS or SLES once and rarely, nothing bad will happen to your skin or hair. It's different if you do it often and regularly. Even small concentrations of these components can cause serious problems.
3. A little more and you will succumb to advertising with flashy words like “Saves from dandruff”, “Restores hair structure”, “To treat itching”? Don't forget to look at the ingredients of the product. Sulfate shampoos, on the contrary, can cause the above effects.

Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) also occupies one of the main positions in the TOP 5 most harmful shampoo ingredients. Despite the fact that this additive is often used in the production of cosmetics and even food products, in a short period of time it is absorbed into the skin and remains in the tissues for a long period. Labeled as a “carcinogen”, it causes a disturbance in the oxidation of fats on the strands and surface of the head, and can cause deterioration of the hair structure and hair loss.

The top five most dangerous substances in modern shampoos include Diethanolamine and Triethanolamine (DEA and TEA). Playing the role of foaming agents and emulsifiers in both cheap and expensive products, they can lead to dryness and even irritation of the scalp. Beware of combining these ingredients with nitrates. With prolonged and frequent use of products with DEA ​​and TEA in the body, the ability to absorb vitamin B4 may deteriorate.

Where to buy good shampoo

Some users of natural shampoos complain that the products they purchase are not able to cleanse their hair of oil and dirt as well as sulfate-containing products. There is a lot of truth in this, but there is one BUT! You can buy sulfate-free shampoos with chemicals that will cope with their tasks with a bang, but, at the same time, will be considered safe.

Let's look at a few safe and effective shampoos:

1. YES to cucumbers- shampoo for colored and damaged hair. The American manufacturer's product contains 95% natural substances, including dill, cucumber, green pepper, broccoli extract, aloe vera gel, citric acid, olive oil, lactic acid, vitamin E and panthenol. Contains no parabens, petroleum products or hazardous SLS or SLES. Volume - 500 ml, price - 1110 rubles.

2. Desert Essence Coconut- shampoo for dry hair containing rosemary leaf extract, olive oil, shea and coconut butter, burdock root extract, as well as other beneficial ingredients. As in the previous version, there are no sulfates or other harmful ingredients. The shampoo smells great of coconut and lathers well. Volume - 237 ml, price - $6.74.

3. Organic Shop “Moroccan Princess. Recovery"- shampoo for all hair types. It contains no silicones, parabens or aggressive surfactants. Volume - 280 ml, cost - 244 rubles.

Video about the most dangerous components of shampoos:

Surfactants (surfactants) are the basis of any detergent - shampoo, liquid soap, gel, etc. Almost all surfactants, to one degree or another, have an effect on protective barrier skin. But if some only change the permeability of the protective barrier for a while, then others damage its structure to one degree or another. It is the degree of this damaging effect that is defined as the “hardness” of the surfactant.

SLS - sodium lauryl sulfate - one of the very first semi-synthetic surfactants, used since the 30s of the twentieth century, is used as a kind of “standard” when assessing hardness. Therefore, it is customary to put SLS at the beginning of the “hardness - softness of surfactant action” scale (although there are a number of surfactants that are much more “hard”).

In general, the most “harsh” emulsifiers are detergents, detergent surfactants. Their direct purpose is to dissolve fats, for example, when washing clothes or washing dishes. Detergents “stick” to fat deposits, crushing them into small drops, which are then easily washed off with water. But upon contact with the skin, detergents act on the protective barrier, just as they do on fatty contaminants: they are embedded in lipid layers, disrupt their structure and break them into separate microdroplets.

First, let's talk about what surfactants there are. Classic alkaline soap - sodium salt of fatty acids - is the oldest surfactant used by humans since ancient times. When washing with this soap, it happens chemical reaction saponification of fat: alkali destroys fat, changes its chemical formula. But in cleansers, the mechanism of action of surfactants is fundamentally different: surfactants do not change the formula of fat - they do not “saponify” it, but bind it into a colloidal (micellar) structure, which is easily washed off from the surface of the skin or hair.

1. Three quarters of the surfactant market is occupied by anionic (more correctly, anionogenic) surfactants. Their cleaning properties are provided by a surface-active anion: a negatively charged particle of the molecule. Example: SLS - sodium lauryl sulfate. In water, it breaks down into the positively charged sodium ion and the negatively charged ion (anion) lauryl sulfate. It is the anions that give powerful foam. But since the surface of our skin has a polymosaic charge, the cleansing effectiveness of such surfactants is not the most ideal.

2. Nonionic (nonionic) surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous solution. This is a very broad group of surfactants, here are some of its representatives:
. esters of fatty acids and glycerol: glycerides of fatty acids of coconut and palm oil are emulsifiers of our emulsion complexes, and glyceryl monooleate (INCI: Glyceryl Oleate) is a co-surfactant in CHILDREN'S SHAMPOO with aloe juice and chamomile
. fatty acid alkanolamides (for example, Cocoamid DEA, see below)
. ethoxylated amides: PEG-4 rapeseed oil fatty acid amide (INCI: PEG-4 Rapeseedamide) used as a co-surfactant in SHOWER GEL and ethoxylated fatty acid esters: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate (INCI: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) or PEG-35 (40, 60) - castor oil - in all our SHOWER GEL, FOAM, almost all SHAMPOOS and some LOTIONS - reduces the skin irritation threshold several times when used in combination with anionic surfactants.

Such surfactants are much better (than ionic) perceived by the skin. But there is also a major drawback for the consumer: they practically do not foam. And you and I think according to established stereotypes: a lot of foam is good, not enough foam - the manufacturer saved on detergent ingredients, underinvested, released a defective product...

3. The highest quality and most expensive are amphoteric surfactants, or ampholytes. Their main types are: alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines and alkylaminocarboxy acids (see examples below). Their molecules change their charge depending on the properties of the environment in which they are located. Such surfactants provide almost perfect cleansing and have almost no effect on the skin's protective barrier. But they are very difficult to thicken. And anionic and nonionic surfactants are added to them - only to obtain the necessary consistency and beautiful foam.

Now that we've touched on cleansing formulas, let's talk about the composition. The main washing (cleansing) effect is determined by the properties of the main, base surfactant. Thus, the vast majority of modern foam detergents use an anionic surfactant: sodium, magnesium, ammonium laureth sulfate or TEA. It differs from SLS in that it contains oxyethyl groups in the molecule, due to which the impact on the protective barrier is reduced threefold. This component can be found in children's shampoos and in expensive products from popular brands.

But if a technologist wants to create a high-quality and safe product, he, along with the main surfactant, will introduce soft detergents, so-called co-surfactants, into the formulation.

The art of a chemical technologist is to select surfactants that are most suitable for the skin type and hair condition, calculate the required concentrations, combine with other surfactants - to eliminate drying, irritating and other negative effects - and get a beautiful and safe product!

The list of ingredients is not always a scary fairy tale from the Brothers Grimm. And this list does not always consist of “all harsh chemicals” designed by insidious chemists to deprive us of skin and hair. Just the opposite. Here short description some soft surfactants used in our products:

Surfactant	Characteristic	In what products is MIRRA used?
Akiposoft- tradename (INCI: Sodium Laureth-11 Carboxylate & Laureth-10
Highly concentrated liquid with the properties of an anionic and amphoteric surfactant, pH 6.8-8.2. The co-surfactant is very soft for the skin and mucous membranes, has excellent wetting ability, perfectly disperses fats, improves the stability and structure of the foam. Used in products with excellent cleansing properties, products for children, and medical soaps.		The entire range of SHOWER GEL and SHAMPOO, FOAM WASH with fruit acids and chamomile, FOAM FOR INTIMATE HYGIENE with chamomile and boswellia
Cocamidopropyl betaine(INCI: Cocamidopropyl Betaine)
Highly active component. Transparent gel of amphoteric type. pH 4.5 - 5.0. Soft co-surfactant mixed with anionic surfactants and diethanolamides		SHOWER GEL ELEGANCE by Pierre Cardin, Shower Gel with argan oil, SHOWER GEL GREEN NOISE, all our SHAMPOOS, FOAM WASH with fruit acids and chamomile
Disodium cocoamphoacetate(INCI: Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate)
A very soft amphoteric surfactant for delicate cosmetics, which is compatible with any other types of surfactants. Liquid with pH 8.0-9.0		CHILDREN'S SHAMPOO with aloe juice and chamomile
Cocamide(INCI: Cocoamid DEA)
Coconut oil fatty acid diethanolamide. Liquid substance yellow color, non-inogenic type, pH 9-11. Used as a thickener and foam stabilizer for shampoos, bath and shower products, and mild detergents. Softens the irritating effect of anionic surfactants		SHOWER GEL ELEGANCE by Pierre Cardin, Shower gel with argan oil, SHAMPOOS FOR FINE AND COLORED HAIR, FOR DRY AND DAMAGED HAIR, FOR OILY HAIR, FOR DAILY USE
Sodium cocoyl sulfosuccinate(INCI - Disodium Cocoyl Sulfosuccinate)
A derivative of fatty acids of coconut oil and sulfosuccinic acid, a mild (both dermatologically and biodegradably) anionic surfactant. Based on sulfosuccinates, Zschimmer & Schwarz produces synthetic pH-neutral toilet soaps for sensitive skin Dove-type		The whole range of SHAMPOOS, including CHILDREN'S SHAMPOOS with aloe juice and chamomile, GEL-CREAM FOR MAKE-UP REMOVAL

Many of the above compounds have skin softening properties. Some of them perform the additional function of thickeners - to create a “marketable” consistency of a cosmetic product.

And a few important words about the naturalness of surfactants. In terms of their “naturalness,” the latest generation of emulsifiers (they are also called “emulsifiers with a green image”) - complex derivatives of sugars, amino acids and vegetable glycerin - rank first. They are as similar as possible to the natural substances contained in the skin, and in chemical composition they correspond 100% to natural derivatives of vegetable and animal fats. Examples: cocoyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside in CHILDREN'S SHAMPOO with aloe juice and chamomile or

Cocoyl glutamate (INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate)
Biotechnology product, ultra-soft, highly effective surfactant. The molecule consists of coconut oil fatty acid (“cocoyl”) and glutamic amino acid, obtained industrially by microbiological synthesis: fermentation using glucose from starch, cane or sugar beets. Selectively dissolves secreted sebum without affecting the protective lipid barrier. Does not form a strong ionic bond with keratin and is easily washed off. It is very important that it has the property of desorption of anionic surfactants (the same SLS, for example) from the stratum corneum, thus protecting the lipid barrier. There is literature data on the moisturizing effect of cocoyl glutamate. Biodegradable surfactant, quickly - 90% in 28 days - breaks down in nature under the influence of bacteria, without forming toxic products.		CLEANSING MILK for dry skin, CHILDREN'S TOOTHPASTE with calcium and licorice, Shower gel with argan oil, ELEGANCE SHOWER GEL by Pierre Cardin, The entire range of SHAMPOOS, incl. and CHILDREN'S SHAMPOO with aloe juice and chamomile, INTIMATE HYGIENE FOAM with chamomile and boswellia

These surfactants and a number of similar ones (coco-glucoside, lauryl-glucoside, coco-amphoacetate, lauryl-glucosecarboxylate, glyceryl oleate, PEG-4 rapeseed oil fatty acid amide, PEG-7-glyceryl cocoate or PEG-35/40 .60-castor oil) and constitute - of course, in different proportions for each product - MIRRA's patented "soft surfactant complex". And there is no need to be afraid of this word - surfactant. Still don't believe me? Read the textbooks:
Benefits can also be derived from the ability of surfactants to destroy the lipid barrier. The fact is that many active additives are water-soluble and cannot penetrate the epidermal barrier on their own. By destroying the lipid layers between the horny scales, surfactants increase the permeability of the epidermal barrier, allowing other substances to pass through it to the deeper layers of the skin.

Properly selected and balanced surfactant systems increase the permeability of the stratum corneum for active components that would otherwise remain on the surface of the skin (Margolina, Hernandez. New cosmetology. Vol. 1, 2005)

Golubkov A.S., Gorodnichev B.N., technology department MIRRA

*When using article materials, a hyperlink to the source is required

Today, the topic of choosing shampoo is very relevant, or more precisely, which shampoo to choose, with sulfates or without sulfates. I will say right away that sulfate-free shampoo uses softer sulfate derivatives or, as they are also called, surfactants, most often plant-based, and we will look at them today.

In the article, you can find out a lot of useful information about choosing a shampoo.

What are sulfates in shampoo for?

Before we understand the features and disadvantages of sulfate-free shampoos, let's first find out what sulfates are and why they are needed in shampoos.

Sulfates are surfactants, that is, they are special cleansing components, similar to petrochemicals, in shampoo they are needed to form foam and cleanse hair of impurities, even in cold water.

The concentration of sulfates in shampoos is in very small quantities, so the likelihood of a harmful effect on the body is too exaggerated, especially since the shampoo comes into contact with the skin and hair for no more than two to three minutes. Although many say that sulfates negatively affect the protective properties of the epidermis, destroying it, and also have a negative effect on the scalp, so it is important to thoroughly rinse the shampoo from your hair.

We have divided the most popular sulfates that are included in shampoo from the most dangerous and toxic to the least dangerous.

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS)- foams heavily and can cause itching and irritation of the scalp if the shampoo is not rinsed off well.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)— it forms a good foam, but if it is poorly washed off it can dry out the scalp.

Ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES)- an aggressive surfactant, but not as toxic as the previous two.

Sodium myreth sulfate SMES- also an aggressive surfactant, often included in shampoos, very rarely, but can still cause dry scalp.

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate- a soft surfactant for cleansing hair and scalp.

Sodium laurel sulfoacetate is a soft surfactant made from palm and coconut oil.

Polyglyceryl-3 palmitate- a soft surfactant, a derivative of glycerin and palm oil.

Sucrose laurate- sucrose laurate, has mild cleansing properties.

Sodium cocoyl glutamate- a mild detergent with antioxidant properties.

Decyl glucoside- a mild cleansing surfactant based on coconut fatty acids and corn starch.

Lauryl glucoside- a soft surfactant made from coconut oil sugar.

Сocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine- a soft surfactant based on coconut oil fatty acid, cleanses and moisturizes at the same time.

Сocamidopropyl betaine- has conditioning properties, prevents static on the hair.

All soft surfactants are included in the composition of sulfate-free shampoos!

If you notice that your hair is getting greasy more often than usual, or that your scalp is itchy or dandruff appears, then it’s time to change your shampoo to a less aggressive one.

If you look at the composition of shampoo, sulfates are in second place after water.

The most aggressive surfactants are found in mass-market shampoos.

Who is suitable for sulfate-free shampoos?

1. Colored hair - regular shampoos wash the dye out of the hair very quickly, while sulfate-free shampoos are softer and, accordingly, the rich hair color remains longer. Therefore, basically all shampoos (especially professional ones) for colored hair are sulfate-free.
2. After keratin hair straightening - after this procedure, you are immediately offered a special shampoo in the salon or recommended to use only a mild, sulfate-free shampoo to wash your hair, since regular shampoo will negate the keratin straightening in just a few washes.
3. Sensitive scalp - if you find it difficult to choose a shampoo because your scalp often becomes dry or irritated, you can try sulfate-free shampoos, they have worked well for caring for sensitive scalps.
4. For anyone who wants to choose more natural care for hair. Sulfate-free shampoos, essential oils, for hair can become an excellent and reliable arsenal in hair care.

Pros and cons of sulfate-free shampoos

The first thing that is worth clarifying is that sulfate-free shampoos are far from natural shampoos (and in general there are no natural industrial shampoos), they simply replace aggressive components with softer ones. Because some write that such shampoos do not contain preservatives, they are completely natural emulsifiers, do not believe this, if they did not contain preservatives, their shelf life would be no more than a week, and not three years.

Pros of sulfate-free shampoos:

• The shampoo contains gentle, mild surfactants that do not dry out or irritate the scalp.
• Sulfate-free shampoos do not destroy the natural protective barrier of the skin and hair structure.
• The dye does not wash out from the hair, the hair retains the color pigment longer, thanks to the soft structure of the shampoo components.
• These shampoos are ideal after a keratin hair straightening procedure. Because sulfates from shampoos corrode keratin and contribute to the rapid leaching of particles from the hair.
• Sulfate-free shampoos do not dry out the scalp, as a result of which the lipid-fat balance does not change and the feeling of cleanliness lasts longer.
• With regular use, sulfate-free shampoos can improve overall hair health.

Sulfate-free shampoos contain more natural ingredients that no less effectively cleanse and fill the hair and scalp with all the necessary components.

Cons of sulfate-free shampoos:

• There is a lot of consumption of shampoo, due to the fact that it does not foam well and you need to wash it with shampoo two and sometimes three times.
• Quite a high price; sulfate-free shampoo will cost more than regular shampoo from the mass market.
• Sulfate-free shampoos do not wash away styling products from the hair (foam, hairspray, gel...), as well as silicones, so you must use them.
• After such a shampoo, you must definitely apply a mask or conditioner, otherwise your hair will not be combable.

You need to get used to such a shampoo, because it may immediately seem that it does not cleanse and rinse your hair well; it may lack volume and smoothness, as after regular shampoos.

How to use?

If you follow a few recommendations, then using sulfate-free shampoo will only bring benefits:

When choosing a shampoo, be sure to take into account the condition of your scalp: is it prone to oiliness or, conversely, to dryness or maybe sensitive. And based on this, buy the appropriate shampoo (moisturizing, for frequent (gentle) washing, for sensitive scalp, for volume).

Before applying shampoo, the hair and scalp should be well wetted and the water should be warmer, otherwise the shampoo will not lather well and rinse well.

Apply the shampoo twice, the second time it will foam better, do a light massage and you can leave the shampoo on your hair for 2-3 minutes. If your hair is thick, long and heavy, you can apply shampoo a third time.

List of sulfate-free shampoos

The choice of sulfate-free shampoos is as great as sulfate ones; price and quality also have a wide range. So you can easily find the right product for your hair.

Kerastase Discipline contains a morpho-keratin complex, which includes serine, glutamic acid, arginium and wheat protein - components responsible for consolidating the hair fiber and making it smooth and soft. The line includes a three-step system that does not involve any chemical changes to the hair.

Compound: Aqua/Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Glycol Distearate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycereth-26, Decyl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Coconut Acid, Coco-Betaine, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Sodium Benzoate, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, Sodium Chloride, Polyquaternium-7, Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium-10, Sodium Isethionate, Salicylic Acid, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate, Propylene Glycol, Carbomer, C11-15 Pareth-7, Benzoic Acid, Arginine, Glutamic Acid, Benzyl Salicylate, Laureth-9, Benzyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Serine, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Trideceth-12, C12-13 Pareth-23, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, Linalool, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, C12-13 Pareth-3, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Parfum/Fragrance.

Thanks to the formula that does not contain dangerous parabens and sulfates, the described shampoo is completely safe for both colored and severely damaged strands. Thanks to the dense foam created by unique plant substances, the shampoo delicately cleanses strands of all types of impurities, giving them incredible lightness, freshness and softness. The composition of the product is also enriched with the revolutionary KeraTriplex® keratin complex, enhanced with awapui extract. Thanks to its effect, dry, brittle and vulnerable curls are thoroughly restored, they are saturated with moisture necessary for the elasticity and silkiness of the strands, as well as giving them increased attractive shine and manageability.

Compound: Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Cococamphodiacetate, Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone, Laureth-4, Laureth-23, Phenoxyethanol, Glycerin, Polyquaternium-5, Keratin, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Oxidized Keratin, Hedychium Coronarium (white Ginger) Root Extract, Polyquaternium-10 , Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Biovlavonoids, Citrus Aurantium Amara (bitter Orange) Peel Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Guar Hydroypropyltrimonium Chloride, Citric Acid, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Magnesium Chloride, Magnesium Nitrate, Fragrance/Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cin namal, Limonene , Linalaol.

With this shampoo you will forget about brittleness and excessive fluffiness of your hair. You will get strong and strong, obedient and silky curls. An excellent result will be obtained due to rosemary and horsetail extracts in the shampoo. The active components will heal damage, restore and strengthen each hair. The shampoo will moisturize, soften and soothe the scalp, preventing dryness and irritation.

Compound: Aqua (Water/Eau), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide MEA, PEG-150 Distearate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Glycol Distearate, Limonene, Linalool, Parfum (Fragrance), Polyquaternium-10, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, Lauramine Oxide, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Equisetum Arvense Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Yucca Schidigera Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Sodium PCA, Citric Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Chloride.

The shampoo delicately cares for curls, providing a comprehensive effect on unruly, coarse, brittle and dry hair.

Active moisturizing components in the composition saturate the strands with moisture and nutrition, enrich them with organic extracts and vitamins that prevent dryness and brittle hair. After the first use, you will notice a visible effect, natural shine of curls, smoothness and silkiness.

The complex with keratin and argan oil has a hair straightening effect. The composition of the product is saturated with components that dry and damaged hair: hydrolysis keratin, argan oil, cationic polymers, provitamin B5, D-Panthenol. After the first use, the presented shampoo provides protection, natural shine, smoothness and silkiness. It evens out hair of all types, intensely moisturizes and gives an amazingly well-groomed look.

Compound: hydrolytic keratin, argan oil, cationic polymers, provitamin B5 D-Panthenol.

Suitable for hypersensitive scalp and dry, damaged strands. Soy protein hydrolyzate in the product instantly moisturizes and stimulates the activity of skin cells. Strengthens hair, deeply moisturizing it from the inside, helps recovery. Does not weigh down hair, retains moisture, tones the scalp and nourishes it with essential microelements. Gives elasticity and prevents hair loss. The shampoo has an antistatic effect and does not contain sodium laureth sulfate.

Compound: Aqua, Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Betaine, PEG-4 Rapeseedamine, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Panthenol, Glycine, Glycerin, PEG-400, Mannitol, Tromethamine, Glutamic Acid, Arginine HCI, Alanine, Aspartic Acid, Lysine Hydrochloride, Leucine, Valine, Citric Acid, Isopropyl Alcohol, Sodium Lactate, Sorbitol, Glucose, Phenylalanine, Isoleucine, Lyrosine, Histidine Hydrochloride, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Copper Tripeptide -1, Polyquaternium-10, Parfum, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone.

Sulfate-free detergent components and additives natural basis suitable for hair of any degree of oiliness, restore its damaged structure, clean it from dust and unpleasant odors. Phytokeratin is an enriched complex that contains plant extracts such as proteins and amino acids from wheat, corn and soy. Thanks to this natural extract, the shampoo penetrates deeper, normalizing the internal keratin layer and moisturizing the skin. The gentle formula is also suitable for particularly sensitive skin.

Compound: water, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, lauryl glucoside, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, lauryl glucoside, cocamidopropyl betaine, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate, citric acid, benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dihydroacetic acid, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, baht potassium, hydrolyzed soy protein, hydrolyzed corn protein, hydrolyzed wheat protein, perfume composition, polyquaternium-10, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, limonene.

The shampoo formula is enriched with bamboo extract and argan oil, thanks to which it restores and strengthens the hair structure, prolongs the durability and brightness of color. A special sulfate-free formula with a vitamin balance also carefully cares for the scalp, deeply nourishes and gently cleanses. After using the shampoo, the hair becomes silky and shiny and acquires a beautiful natural volume.

Compound: Aqua, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco Glucoside, Glycerin, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Cocamide DEA, Parfum, Polyquatemium-7, Glycol Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Silicone Quaternium-16, Bambusa Vulgaris, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Benzophenone-4, Citric Acid, Undeceth-11, Butyloctanol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Propylene Glycol, Undeceth-5, Niacinamide, Calcium Pantothenate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine HCL, Maltodextrin Sodium Starch, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Methylchloroisothiazolinone Methyli, sothiazolinone.

Almost all shampoos contain substances that wash away dust, dirt and sebum from the surface of the hair. Usually these substances are feared as harmful, bad, dangerous and mutagenic. Those. In the minds of ordinary people, shampoos with certain substances are considered on a par with nuclear waste, global warming and GMOs. The number of useless articles about the dangers of sulfates, unfortunate SLS is multiplying and multiplying, the number of “reliable sources”, “scientific studies”, “famous doctors/cosmetologists/etc.” is growing in arithmetic progression. and "groups of scientists" from various imaginary universities. All this gives rise to even greater misunderstanding and fear.

If you look at the composition of the shampoo, the first positions will most likely be some of the following names: Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, TEA Layril Sulfate, TEA Layril Sulfate Laureth Sulfate)- basic cleaning compounds. It is believed that only the last two compounds gently cleanse, do not injure or harm the hair and body. All others are considered extremely bad. This is usually justified by the fact that they dry out the skin and/or hair and cause mutations. Has anyone thought about this? I would like to see mutated hair and mutated scalp.

It probably looks like this:

It just doesn't work. People have been washing and washing with products containing sulfates for 60 years now, but their hair still does not mutate. Do you feel how your brain is looking for logical answers and picking up tons of information it has heard briefly?
The fact is that hair (contrary to advertising that promises to make it so) is not living, it is dead cells, just like nails. If they were alive, every haircut would be painful torture. It doesn’t occur to anyone, say, to trim their fingers or ears. As a consequence of the fact that the hair is dead, it is mainly influenced only by internal factors: genetics, nutrition or the number and quality of blood vessels (which, by and large, is also genetics). To give a “healthy shine” to your hair, you just need to thoroughly clean it from dust and dirt that has adhered due to sebum, and prevent the hair scales from opening. Because hair is porous. The more tightly the scales are pressed, the smoother and shiny it is. More on this a little later, but for now a little about cleansing, that is, about those same harmful sulfates and other surfactants.
L sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS)— sodium salt of lauryl sulfuric acid, anionic surfactant. Belongs to irritant, but not carcinogenic substances. It irritates the skin of people with atopic dermatitis (what is not irritating with such a symptom?) and the skin of healthy people when exposed for more than an hour (soaking hair, anyone?). In moderate concentrations and when used correctly, it is harmless. Biodegradable by 90%.
sodium laureth sulfate- detergent, surfactant. Less irritating than sodium lauryl sulfate, but causes more drying which can be avoided by careful rinsing.
Ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS)- is the common name for ammonium dodecyl sulfates, surfactants. In high concentrations, this molecule can cause eye and skin irritation. Inhalation may cause irritation respiratory system. Ingestion may cause irritation. Those. Don’t drink shampoo concentrate, don’t rinse your nose and eyes with it, and everything will be okay. All alkyl sulfates are readily biodegradable and standard wastewater treatment operations remove 96-99.96% of alkyl sulfates. Even under anaerobic conditions, at least 80% of the original volume is biodegraded after 15 days, with 90% degradation after 4 weeks.
Ammonium Laureth Sulfate- emulsifier, anionic surfactant. The irritant effects are similar to those produced by other detergents and the degree of irritation increases directly with increasing concentration. However, it does not cause adverse responses in any of the toxicological tests.
As a rule, regular household shampoos will contain one or more of these four surfactants, because... they are cheap and effective in cleaning. Their aggressive effect on the scalp is corrected by adding various components. There are other mild cleansers (used for children's cosmetics or made from natural raw materials):
Disodium lauret sulfosuccinate- a surfactant that improves dispersion. Even though the name sounds similar to lauryl sulfate, they are completely different. Succinate is a salt of succinic acid, not sulfuric acid. The sulfuric acid sulfate ion in sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) in succinate is replaced by the milder and more stable sulfoester ion. Structurally, sulfosuccinate is a much larger molecule than other surfactants, so it has virtually no ability to penetrate the skin. Its properties are absolutely non-toxic even in high concentrations. Included in delicate and children's shampoos, intimate hygiene products.
Decyl glucoside- a soft nonionic surfactant, obtained by the reaction between glucose and fatty alcohols of plant origin. As a rule, the source of glucose is corn starch, and the source of fatty acids (decanol - decyl alcohol) is coconut or palm oil. Despite the fact that decyl glucoside is a nonionic surfactant, it differs from them in its “natural, plant, green” origin. Decyl glucoside has a high foaming ability and extremely low irritant potential.
Lauryl glucoside- another surfactant that is synthesized from natural raw materials during the process of rectification of vegetable fats (coconut oil and glucose). In cosmetics it acts as an emulsifier, dispersant, natural foaming agent, and increases the viscosity of the consistency. It has a mild cleansing effect and is used in children's products and intimate hygiene products. It has surfactant properties - it breaks down fats and impurities on the surface of the skin, after which they are easily removed from the skin or hair. Decomposes at high speed in the external environment. Since such glycosides disintegrate quite quickly, they cleanse the skin very delicately. That is why lauryl glucoside is used as a component by leading manufacturers of cosmetics. This substance is included in cosmetics intended to care for the most delicate skin and after shaving products. Lauryl glucoside is completely non-toxic.
Decyl polyglucose- A surfactant produced from coconuts (decyl alcohol) and corn (corn starch).
Glycereth-2 cocoate- soft surfactant of natural origin. Alkylamide substitute. It is a non-ionic emulsifier, stabilizer and foam enhancer, a convenient and effective thickener.
Cocoglucoside- natural amphoteric surfactant. Derived from natural glucoside and coconut oil. Gentle on the skin.
Cocamidopropyl betaine- also surfactants of plant origin. Produced from fatty acids in coconut oil. It reduces the irritating effect of other surfactants, therefore it is used either in combination with them or separately - for children's cosmetics and intimate hygiene products. Used as an antistatic agent for hair, a thickener for water in cosmetics, an emulsifier, and a foaming agent. Not recommended for use in cosmetics that are left on the skin for a long time; it irritates the mucous membrane of the eyes. General toxicity is low.
Sodium cocoamphoacetate- an amphoteric surfactant, a surfactant that enhances foaming and has a mild cleansing effect. An aqueous solution of an amphoteric surfactant obtained from coconut oil fatty acids. Gently removes impurities without damaging the skin, cleanses it, increases the permeability of the stratum corneum for deeper penetration of active components.
DEA (Diethanolamine) - MEA (Monoethanolamine) - TEA (Triethanolamine), as well as others: Cocamide DEA, DEA-Cetyl phosphate, DEA Oleth-3 phosphate, Myristamide DEA, Stearamide MEA, Cocamide MEA, Lauramide DEA, Linoleamide MEA, Oleamide DEA , TEA-Lauryl Sulfate. They are used as emulsifiers and foaming agents in cleansing lotions for facial skin, shampoos, body and bath lotions, soaps, etc. Ethanolamines, with prolonged exposure or high concentrations, irritate the eyes, skin and mucous membranes, causing dermatitis.
Lauramide DEA, Lauric Acid is usually derived from coconut or bay oil. It is used as a base for soap production as it creates good foam. In a cosmetic formula, it reacts with other components to produce nitrosamines, known carcinogens. Dries hair and skin. Causes allergic reactions. Semi-synthetic lauramide DEA can dry out hair and skin, cause itching, and allergic reactions.
Sodium palmate - obtained by alkaline hydrolysis of palm oil.
Sodium stearate is the sodium salt of a fatty acid from coconut oil.
In addition to those listed above, there are dozens, if not hundreds, of other compounds used to make foam detergents. It is not possible to classify all surfactants, detergents, surfactants, foaming agents, emulsifiers, etc. And it’s difficult to come across any special, unfamiliar compound - most shampoos have a “hospital average” composition, varying in concentrations and additives. My personal opinion is that the effect of a particular surfactant does not depend on its origin; more precisely, the production of large volumes of products neutralizes all the positive and negative sides initial "raw materials".
In addition to surfactants, the average shampoo contains about a dozen (or more) different components. These are thickeners, preservatives, conditioning additives, perfume compositions, natural oils and extracts, dyes, stabilizers and other various additives.
Thickeners are responsible for viscosity and density. Together with surfactants they form the basis of what will be shampoo. Examples of thickeners: common table salt (sodium chloride), cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, linoleamide DEA, etc.
Preservatives prevent the development of microorganisms and suppress other microbial processes. Contrary to popular belief that preservatives are harmful, without them, shampoo can become dangerous to use due to the activity of microorganisms and cause various side effects. The following are used as preservatives: DMDM-hydantoin, benzoic acid (sodium benzoate is a natural preservative found in many berries), benzyl alcohol, parabens, propylene glycol, phenoxyethyl alcohol, sorbic acid, etc.
Conditioning agents are used to give hair shine, smoothness and make combing easier. Typically, various silicones are used for such purposes.
The shampoo may contain components that provide hair protection from ultraviolet radiation and/or thermal protectors. Although, it seems to me, they are useless in shampoos. It makes more sense to add them to balms or leave-in sprays, masks, etc., i.e. in those products that will remain on the hair and will not be washed off with water. But let’s leave this to the conscience of advertisers and marketers.
Shampoos also contain dyes, opacifiers, fragrances, perfume compositions and other components that distinguish this particular shampoo from all others in color and smell.
According to advertising, it is believed that shampoo should cleanse, moisturize, nourish hair, and the list goes on. For these purposes, they like to announce some extracts, dietary supplements, oils, infusions, decoctions, vitamins and much more. I keep remembering microparticles of diamonds (sic!), pearl powder (chalk), taurine (apparently absorbed immediately into a brain softened by advertising) and many other pearls and I giggle. These additives are the most interesting, because there is unlimited scope for creativity and imagination, sometimes to the point of idiocy. Plus, it’s convenient, because... You don’t expect a miracle effect from natural supplements with just one use, and the product can last for a very long time. We should also not forget that along with dyes and fragrances, it is natural ingredients are the most allergic and can cause a lot of adverse reactions. Natural oils They are undoubtedly useful for hair, but from my own experience, they are useful outside of shampoos. It is better to coat your head (nutrients and similar substances are absorbed through the skin, nothing is absorbed through the hair) and hair with oils, and then wash them off along with dirt and grease from the scalp. You can see how the appearance of your hair improves. So, oils in shampoo will not do anything bad (except for allergic reactions), but there is little good from them either.
I would like to mention vitamins in a separate line (most often A, E, C, PP, group B). Vitamins are, of course, great, but the effect of them in shampoo tends to zero. It is much better to take them internally.

Surfactants (surfactants) are the basis of the raw materials of modern detergent cosmetics: liquid soap, shampoos, gels. All surfactants, to one degree or another, affect the skin's protective barrier. Some of them can only temporarily change the permeability of the protective barrier, and some can destroy its structure. The degree of destructive effect of surfactants is determined by their “hardness”. The standard for assessing the hardness of a surfactant is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS).

This component is one of the first semi-synthetic surfactants, used since the 30s of the last century. In the scale of hardness - softness of action of SLS surfactants, SLS is at the very beginning, although there are also more “hard” surfactants. The most “harsh” are detergent surfactants - . They have the ability to stick to fatty deposits and separate them into small droplets. As a result, the fat is easily washed off with water. However, when in contact with the skin, detergents act not only on fatty contaminants, but also on the protective barrier. By integrating into the lipid layers of the skin, detergents disrupt their structure.

Types of surfactants

Traditional alkaline soap, which is a sodium salt of fatty acids, is the oldest type of surfactant. It has been used by mankind since time immemorial. When washing with alkaline soap, saponification of fat occurs - a chemical reaction, as a result of which the chemical formula of fat changes. Simply put: lye breaks down fat. The principle of action of surfactants included in cosmetic cleansers is completely different. The surfactants that are part of these products do not destroy fat, but bind it into a structure that is very easily washed off with water from the surface of our skin or hair.

1. Most of the surfactant market is anionic surfactants; their cleaning properties are provided by a surface-active anion. Let us remind you: an anion is a negatively charged particle of molecules. An example of such surfactants is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Upon contact with water, it breaks down into a sodium ion, which has a positive charge, and an anion (negatively charged ion) - lauryl sulfate. It is thanks to the anions that abundant foam is created. However, the surface of the skin has a polymosaic charge, so such surfactants do not provide the maximum cleansing effect.

2. The second rather extensive group of surfactants is nonionic surfactants. They do not form ions when dissolved in water. Representatives of this group of surfactants are:

- esters of glycerol and fatty acids (glycerides of palm and coconut oil fatty acids, glyceryl monooleate);
- alkanolamides of fatty acids;
- ethoxylated amides and ethoxylated esters of fatty acids. In combination with anionic surfactants, they significantly reduce skin irritation when using cosmetics (gels, shampoos, foams).

3. Another group of surfactants: the highest quality, most expensive surfactants - amphoteric (ampholytes). The main types of amphoteric surfactants are sulfobetaines, alkyl betaines and alkylaminocarboxy acids. Amphoteric surfactants have a greater effect on the skin than ionic surfactants. However, amphoteric surfactants have one very significant drawback for the consumer: they do not foam well. The absence of abundant foam causes the stereotypical consumer to suspect that the detergent manufacturer produces low-quality products, skimping on ingredients. In fact, the molecules of amphoteric surfactants change their charge in accordance with the properties of the environment in which they are found, so they provide maximum cleansing without negatively affecting the skin's protective barrier. Another minor drawback of amphoteric surfactants is that it is very difficult to give them a thick consistency. For this purpose, detergent manufacturers have to add anionic and nonionic surfactants to them. As a result, amphoteric surfactants become thick and foam well.

Surfactant composition

Let's consider the composition of the surfactant. The main cleansing effect of any surfactant is determined by the properties of its main component - the base surfactant. The main component of most modern foaming cleansers for hair and body is an anionic surfactant (sodium, ammonium, magnesium laureth sulfate or TEA). Unlike SLS, the chemical formula of this surfactant contains oxyethyl groups, so its effect on the protective functions of the skin is three times milder. It is included in children's shampoos and expensive foaming detergents from well-known cosmetic companies. But if the manufacturer wants to create the highest quality, safe product, in addition to the base surfactant, he will introduce a co-surfactant into the detergent - a softer detergent. Experienced chemist-technologists of cosmetic companies calculate the specific gravity (concentration) of each component of the surfactant and select its composition in such a way that the surfactant best suits a certain skin type or hair condition, and its use completely eliminates irritating, drying and other negative impacts on skin or hair. Only this approach allows us to obtain a high-quality product that is harmless to human health. Many co-surfactants are used to soften the skin, some of them act as thickeners for the base surfactant and impart cosmetic product required consistency.

A very important condition for the safety of surfactants is their naturalness. The first place here is occupied by the latest generation of emulsifiers, the so-called “green image emulsifiers” - complex derivatives of vegetable glycerin, amino acids and sugars. They are as similar as possible to the natural substances contained in the skin. And in their chemical composition they correspond almost 100% to natural derivatives of animal and vegetable fats. Such surfactants are called soft.

Do surfactants have beneficial properties?

The property of surfactants to destroy the lipid barrier can in some way even be beneficial. Many water-soluble detergent active additives cannot penetrate the epidermal barrier on their own. Surfactants, by destroying the lipid layers of the skin between the horny scales, help increase the permeability of the epidermal barrier, which in turn allows beneficial substances to penetrate through it to the deeper layers of the skin. Otherwise, these components would simply remain on the surface of the skin without providing any beneficial effects. This is the art of properly selected, balanced surfactant systems.