How to knit on a knitting machine. Eight secrets of knitting on a machine How to knit on a hand knitting machine

Knitting as a process of creating irreplaceable high-quality clothes from knitwear, which is suitable for any season, has long become an integral part of modern life.

If the process of creating coziness with your own hands brings pleasure, and the thought that you will be able to create things on your own that you could only dream of before or order from expensive studios does not leave you, then machine knitting is definitely your hobby. Most needlewomen come to automate the process after mastering a hook and knitting needles, but you can immediately start working on a machine.

Knitting by car as a hobby

What are the advantages of machine knitting over other types of needlework:

  • You yourself create an exclusive model, being the creator of the material, style and color scheme.
  • The knitted item you knit has more than one life - you can unravel it and, after some processing of the threads, knit something else, and so on until you get tired of it.
  • Knitted patches, knitted as a sample when calculating loops for the next model, can be used to cover stools, create a patchwork quilt, an original bag, oven mitts in the kitchen, or a warm rug for your favorite tailed pets.

Machine knitting allows you to bring the result as close as possible to the factory one, while the item always remains exclusive. If desired, this can easily be turned into an additional source of household income.

To start mastering this type of needlework, you will need not only desire, but also a special machine.

How to choose a knitting machine

Knitting machines are of great interest because they make it possible to make dreams come true. Just imagine, in one evening you can knit a blouse and come to work in it the next morning, although just yesterday you and your colleagues were looking at this model in the latest fashion magazine.

Specialized stores offer:

  • single-face flat knitting and double-face knitting machines;
  • manual or automated;
  • with or without software.

Single-circuit knitting machines such as “Severyanka”, “Neva-5”, Silver, Toyota knit any single knitted fabric that has a front and back side (as when knitting). With two-color machine knitting, broaches remain on the wrong side.

Double-circuit machines like Brother 965i (Brother), Silver, Toyota knit double-sided fabric and various elastic bands (2x2, 2x1, 3x1, 3x2, etc.). When knitting in two colors, there are no broaches of thread. Double-font machines are a complex and expensive device on which you can create endlessly, the possibilities are unlimited.

Knitting machines are produced in different classes; the higher the class, that is, the numbers in the marking, the thinner the knitted fabric, the smaller the diameter of the knitting needles and the thickness of the yarn. Class 5 machines are most suitable for home use. For example, “Neva-5” is a 5th class vehicle.
When choosing, consider the knitting method:

  • manual, when the design is created by hand on the background using special decking needles;
  • using a punched card on which a design is printed, and the machine knits sequentially according to this punched card;
  • using software.

For multi-colored knitting, the kit includes a special device; if it is not available, it must be purchased separately.

Focusing on these characteristics, taking into account your capabilities and the time that you can devote to knitting, choose a new assistant.

Features of choosing yarn

Yarn for machine knitting must be wear-resistant, elastic and at the same time durable. Woolen and half-woolen yarn No. 32/2 meets these properties. It is sold in large reels on cones. Products made from such yarn can be knitted by joining it in 3, 4 or 5 threads.

In order for the knitting fabric to be smooth, uniform and beautiful, the thread tension must be uniform. If the yarn is wound into balls, this will not happen. You can't knit from balls on a machine! Therefore, before work, it is better to rewind the yarn into bobbins using a special “winder-carousel” device.

For openwork and summer products, use cotton yarn No. 40/2; No. 34/2; No. 54/2, iris, silk and lurex. You cannot use heavily twisted yarn, as the fabric turns out to be slanted and it is impossible to straighten it. Any synthetic material, especially thin ones, should be used with caution, since when ironed, this yarn seems to “glaze over” and the product loses its attractive appearance.

When machine knitting, it is often necessary to leave loops open at the beginning or end of work. To prevent them from unraveling, use an auxiliary thread, which must be removed after finishing the work. Floss, darning, lavsan or unnecessary, waste cotton threads are suitable for this purpose.

When creating multi-colored products, do not forget that wool can fade during wet heat treatment, and therefore it is worth choosing combinations of colors used with special care. Before you start knitting the main item, you should definitely knit a test sample and steam it.

How to organize your workplace

So, you have decided to buy a knitting machine. This is a complex apparatus that requires a stable, smooth surface. An ironing board, window sill or coffee table will not work. For these purposes, it is worth allocating a separate well-lit place in the apartment so that direct rays of the sun do not fall, since the surface of the needle beds in most cases is metal and the glare of the sun will interfere with work. An additional light source is required so that every loop on the machine needles can be seen.

Workplace equipment:

  • ironing board;
  • steam iron;
  • winder;
  • measuring tape, scissors, safety pins, chalk;
  • knitted needles with a large eye of different sizes for knitting, pins for knitwear;
  • a square or rectangular frame for calculating loops and rows on a sample with centimeter markings applied;
  • a sewing machine, if you will sew parts of knitwear;
  • sewing oil in an oil dish.

All this should be within arm's reach while working. Also take note of additional information about.

Algorithm of actions when knitting on a machine

Learning to machine knit is no more difficult than mastering the technique of creating patterns with knitting needles and. As a rule, manufacturers of knitting machines include detailed operating instructions for each model.

Procedure and nuances of work

  1. Strictly following the instructions, strengthen the needle beds of the knitting machine according to the attached drawings so that there is no vibration when knitting.
  2. Install thread tensioners, sort out the weights: large ones for the main fabric, small ones for the edges of the knitted fabric.
  3. Place the deckers and loop-catching needles in a separate box.
  4. Wipe the entire machine with a flannel cloth to remove engine oil from the iron parts.
  5. Thread the pre-prepared threads and knit the sample on the needles; you should knit at least 30 rows, while simultaneously setting the knitting density on the counter. For example, we knitted 50 rows at one density, separate them with an auxiliary thread (two rows), changed the density to a lower or higher direction, again knitted 50 rows and again with an auxiliary thread. In this case, the carriage should move without much effort.
  6. Remove the sample from the machine, secure it to the knitting board and steam. Set the density of the knitting fabric that suits you for the product for further knitting.
  7. Set the selected density and start knitting a test sample to calculate the loops and rows.
  8. Secure the knitted sample to the ironing board, steam it and place a frame with centimeter divisions on it. Count the rows and loops and write everything down in a specially kept notebook so that you don’t have to return to calculating loops from this particular yarn and this particular density.

It is strongly recommended to write down all calculations and steps during work, namely: density, number of rows per hem, number of rows for decreases, increases and some other actions during the work process:

  • number, name and manufacturer of yarn;
  • number of threads of yarn;
  • knitting density;
  • quantity and weight of yarn, how much did you use for the product;
  • size or measurements of the product;
  • a drawing or sample pattern for a given product.

All these records will save you in the future from painful questions about how much yarn is needed for this or that product, from memories: what was the density, how many threads were there, and so on and so forth.

Knitting colored patterns

With the help of machine knitting, you can create original striped patterns, choosing the appropriate colors when you make the transition from dark to light shades and vice versa - in this case, you can use all the leftover yarn lying around the house.

You can make separate symmetrical and asymmetrical patterns, it is convenient to knit different animals, especially on children's clothing in two, three or more colors. Any cross pattern, which is previously applied to checkered paper or graph paper, is suitable for the ornament.

Repeating patterns on knitting machines are called jacquard. On single-face knitting machines, when knitting a jacquard manually or using a punched card (depending on the type of machine selected), broaches remain on the wrong side of the fabric, which during wear cling, stretch or tear - it is recommended to glue them with non-woven material or secure them in any other way. On double-font machines, there are no broaches when knitting jacquard.

You can get an original product if you simply make a knitted fabric and decorate it with leather patches or embroider it with lurex. It all depends only on your desire and skill, which comes with experience.

Knitting openwork fabric

The openwork fabric on single-frame machines is done by hand, almost like. For this purpose, special deckers are used, which are included with each knitting machine. Imported machines are equipped with a special carriage. The quality and variety of the openwork patterns made cannot be compared with hand knitting!

Processing of knitted products

After removal from the machine, any knitted product is folded in half lengthwise. If it is a single stitch, then it is better to baste with simple threads for fixing, so that there are even edges and carefully steam the entire fabric, do not iron, but rather steam it in order to tidy up the edges of the knitted fabric.

When machine knitting, the edges of the fabric are most deformed, and with single satin stitch, the edges also curl. Shoulder slopes are usually made with partial knitting. It is difficult to knit the neckline of products, especially on double-backed machines - therefore, the neckline is usually cut out according to the pattern of the product, the edge is carefully steamed so that the loops do not unravel, and then it is decorated with separately knitted tape, elastic or openwork tape using quilting on both sides.

On single-face machines, all publications recommend untying the neckline and then putting it on the machine needles again - this is a long process and not very neat. It’s easier to cut out the neck, carefully steam it at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, and then knit the binding from a smaller number of threads or at a high density and pin it on both sides. The choice is yours.

Safety precautions

  1. The table on which the machine is installed must be durable and not create vibrations.
  2. When lighting the knitting work area, use fluorescent lamps.
  3. When working with needles, be careful - the carriage that moves them cannot be removed instantly.
  4. Weights that are hung on a knitted fabric during work tend to fall on your feet - secure them so that this does not happen.
  5. It is not recommended for children and animals to be in the work area to avoid injury.

Any type of handicraft is individual creativity; creating with the help of a machine means keeping up with the times! Master it to always be among the stylish ladies.

So, the long-awaited purchase of a knitting machine took place. However, figuring out how to knit on a machine on your own is quite difficult. Today there are many knitting machines, each of which has its own advantages and features.

Where to start?

If you decide to figure out how to learn how to knit on a machine, then you need to understand that in any type of work you must follow certain rules. Before you start working with the machine, you must read the instructions for it. First you need to understand what functions a knitting machine can perform.

Thread selection

So, the permissible thread density is determined by the class of the machine. Thus, there are cars of 3, 5, 7 classes. Each class of machine has its own number of needles, and the thread density depends on it.

The third class is equipped with needles in the amount of 120-150 needles. This equipment can use large yarn. The fifth grade has 180-200 needles. In this case, the use of a medium type of yarn is allowed. The seventh class of machines is equipped with 250 needles. For such machines you can only use fine yarn.

Testing

Naturally, an inexperienced knitter will not be able to create a high-quality product for the first time. First, you just need to learn how to handle the machine, and then gradually approach the most crucial moment, for which everything was started: how to knit on a machine. To do this, you need to take a small thread whose parameters correspond to the class of the machine. It is advisable to take the thread in light shades so that it is better visible during the work process.

For the first time using the machine, you need to take yarn consisting of one thread. If you work with several thin threads at the same time, you cannot avoid tangling and delamination. Ideal parameters for yarn that can be used for the first time when working with absolutely any brand of machine: 500-350 m per 100 grams. Threads can be purchased at any handicraft store; you just need to indicate to the seller the necessary parameters.

Winder and pincushion

To operate the machine you will need a hand winder. It is necessary in order to rewind the skeins before starting work. With its help, the skein takes on a cylindrical shape, and this greatly simplifies the process of threading the machine. The winder will also allow the yarn to be fed into the machine without snags or knots.

Further in the work you need to pay maximum attention to the needle bar, as well as the carriage (the moving part of the machine). It is necessary to see where these parts are located at the first stage, at the beginning of working with the machine’s instructions.

Initial exercises

It is better to start knitting on a machine with basic exercises. One of these exercises is casting on loops on machine needles. After this exercise is mastered, you can move on to other more complex ones. For example, you can start using different types of thread weaves. Then you can move on to more complex options, namely try the following manipulations:

  • add one loop as the carriage moves;
  • move the loops to perform openwork knitting;
  • fasten the loops.

Making the first product

Once the basic techniques for operating the machine have been mastered, you can proceed to the manufacture of the first product. A product model is suitable, for the creation of which you need to use one type of thread and the same pattern. It is worth paying attention to the patterns. For beginners, it is recommended to take models with ready-made patterns, then mistakes can be avoided.

As a rule, if a pattern is taken from a popular magazine or book, then complete instructions, which contain step-by-step actions for creating a specific model, are described there.

Common mistakes

When the model of the future product is chosen, it is necessary to carefully consider all the patterns that will have to be made. These patterns need to be created on a typewriter as a sample. Samples are required to avoid errors in length and width. Using samples, you can calculate how many loops you need to make to achieve the desired parameters. Do not try to neglect this stage of work, since the width of the loops on the needles will be completely different, which means that mistakes cannot be avoided in this case.

It happens that you don’t like the result at all. For example, the product does not fit at the waist. Then it’s better to dissolve what happened. Products are usually unraveled using a special winder.

It's natural to make mistakes when starting to learn machine knitting. Therefore, if something doesn’t work out, don’t despair. In order to understand how to knit on a knitting machine, you can seek help from craftswomen on special forums or purchase video tutorials for beginners.

The article contains useful tips that will be useful for machine knitting beginners. About fears before starting knitting on a machine and the emotional state, about preparing a knitting machine for work and other important “little things” of training. Having overcome which, you knit on the machine with joy.

Greetings! We regularly receive questions about how to get started. knit by machine Silver Reed. I decided to continue the series of articles about the features of knitting on a machine. Start in the articles "" and "".

Emotional challenges of learning machine knitting

First: Is it difficult to learn how to knit by machine?

This is the most common question we get asked. If I were younger, I could say: “Yes, this is so damn difficult!” If I had known that it was SO difficult, I would never have asked my husband to buy a knitting machine!”

But, being a man of mature age, I will answer more restrainedly: “Of course, learning to work on any new machine device is not easy. It takes patience, time, effort. But if you have a strong DESIRE, you can learn.”

Second: fear of starting to learn knitting on a machine

When you learn to knit by machine, emotional and psychological aspects hinder you more than ignorance as such. It is no coincidence that in the first sentence I write not “how to learn to knit”, but “how to start”.

Starting to knit on a knitting machine is scary for any of us, women and men. Don’t believe those who boastfully say something like: “Come on, bullshit, I wasn’t afraid of anything. I took it and learned.” These people are either disingenuous or have forgotten about the fears they experienced at the beginning of their journey. Or, they knit “anyhow.” Or they even gave up everything a long time ago, never having learned how to knit properly on a machine. And with their bravado they hide their reluctance to allow others to overcome their fear and learn how to knit beautifully by machine.

At the time we bought our Silver Reed class 5 car, I had a lot of professional experience in various fields. What skills have I never had to acquire before? I even successfully master Internet work (blogging, webmastering) on ​​my own, although at our age it is much more difficult than in my youth.

But for about a week I couldn’t bring myself to open the boxes in which the knitting machine was packed. There was some kind of timidity that was completely incomprehensible to me. Why, it was shock, fear, turning into panic. Emotionally, it’s very similar to learning to drive a car in a driving course. As a result, my husband first had to completely master the knitting machine himself. And then teach me. To this day, in all difficult situations that arise when machine knitting, I ask my husband for advice.

So when you feel intimidated by the knitting machine and can't bring yourself to approach it, remember that you are not alone. Many of us touched the car for the first time with our hands shaking with excitement. This is fine. Perhaps there is no way without this.

Third: family matters

Did you know that machine knitting courses take about a year? And we boldly undertake to do this ourselves. Many women have to literally snatch minutes between work, household chores, caring for children and husbands. Find time to prepare the machine and yarn, get small children out of the room, keep them occupied with something, etc. Moreover, choose a moment when no one is sleeping, so as not to be disturbed by the noise of the carriage. How many difficulties are overcome without even noticing.

And if there is no understanding or support from friends and relatives, it is even more difficult. This is an important psychological point that makes learning difficult. When a person takes a course, those around him know about it and treat him with a certain amount of respect. They are not indignant about the time spent on training. They don’t reproach you for being “ugly” or other offensive things.

In addition, there is always the opportunity to consult a specialist personally and see that those who study nearby have similar problems. After the course, you can show your certificate as proof that you are now a specialist.

And when you learn to knit on a machine at home, you spend YOUR free time on it. Relatives and acquaintances do not have the perception that what you are learning now is very difficult and serious. On the contrary, it can be perceived as self-indulgence and foolishness.

Therefore, if it so happens that you are mastering a knitting machine alone, without the support of your loved ones, try to clearly realize that you are a great guy, smart and a strong person! Because you don’t give up and learn something serious and useful instead of wasting time on chatter or “empty” gatherings.

Technical aspects of machine knitting

Fourth: the machine must be assembled correctly

A knitting machine consists of several parts that must be assembled. For example, like a computer - for it to work, you need to install a “desktop”, connect a processor, mouse, keyboard, etc. to it with cords. If you forget something or do it incorrectly, the computer will not work.

The same algorithm applies to the Silver Reed knitting machine. You need to collect it carefully, carefully, slowly. One might say, even jewelry-like. In the future, pay attention to whether the front font is evenly raised. If you don't lift it all the way, the hinges may fall off.

Fifth: new knitting machine like an unbroken horse

I want to tell you about one simple point that you don’t know about as a beginner. While the car is new, it is completely undeveloped. It knits poorly, as if “creaking”, the needles seem to cling to each other.

At first we were very amazed at various incomprehensible situations. Just now the machine was knitting normally, but now the thread flies off at the edges (or even in the middle), the carriage will stop for no reason, even if it cracks. It seemed that the car initially behaved like an unbroken horse))

To some extent, this is true. Video tutorials that can be found on the Internet are shown on machines developed. Therefore, the carriage glides on them softly and smoothly. The needles don't cling to each other, the loops don't jump off, etc. Looking at such ideal video lessons, we were very sad, how incompetent we were, and how great everything was for others.

In fact, the reasons lie in technical issues. One of which is that the car is new. Over time, everything gets better.

Sixth: “Measure seven times...”

It’s not only beginners who have days when somehow everything doesn’t work out when knitting. The machine struggles, the hinges “dance” in all directions. You have to carefully check many settings in the car. I will list a few, checking which usually helps us fix problems.

a) see if they accidentally pressed when they lowered - raised the fontura, the clearance lever (with a blue dot). It should be at the top all the way, not leaving a millimeter of free space;
b) check whether the half-step lever is switched (for example, we knit a “2×2 elastic band”, and it is set in position H5 instead of R5);
c) raise the PI correctly;
d) remove or add weights;
e) carefully check each loop in the row;
f) whether the thread coming from the bobbin or skein is sagging (according to the instructions, it should be well tensioned).

Seventh: knit across the entire width of the needle bed

Another, no less important, follows from the previous point. In the first days we knitted small “pieces” of 30-50 needles. Usually, several dozen center needles were in use, while the outer ones were left without work. As a result, the carriage began to move perfectly in the center of the needle bar. But it skidded slightly along the edge. Or, the loops at the edges got tangled and “flew off”.

If you have the same picture, the reason may be that the outer needles were almost not involved in the work. But, as the work progresses, the carriages and needle beds will begin to knit “like clockwork.” By the way, regarding oil - the next point.

Eighth: lubricate the car

The machine comes with a special oil in a small, convenient bottle with a narrow neck. We have been repeatedly asked “how to properly lubricate a knitting machine”? Place a few drops directly on the car and wait until it somehow saturates on its own?

Some may find the question funny and stupid. In fact, this is a necessary and important point in setting up a knitting machine. We do this: drop one drop onto a cotton pad and lubricate the needle beds with it. Shown in a short video tutorial.

Another pressing question: how often to lubricate your car? Of course, this is not the case when “you can’t spoil the porridge with butter.” We don't lubricate too often. For example, it happens that more orders come in for crocheting/knitting and Silver Reed is without work for several weeks. Then, before starting knitting, be sure to lubricate the machine.

Or, on the contrary, we knit almost without stopping only by machine. Of course, a lot of dust and debris from the different yarns that are used for various products collect in the needle beds and carriages. Then we clean and lubricate it more often so that the carriage knits easily.

Ninth: the knitting machine must be clean

The next everyday and elementary question about machine knitting is how to clean a car. We regularly clean the room in which we knit and the Silver reed machine itself with a vacuum cleaner. Nowadays there are a variety of models of vacuum cleaners, with attachments for crevices, etc. The easiest way is to remove the brush and use a tube to thoroughly clean the needle beds.

I don’t know about other knitting machines, but Silver is very “sensitive”. When knitting, dust particles and lint can accumulate unnoticed by us, but are sensitive to the carriage and needle beds. Because of this, the machine may struggle and refuse to knit.

Therefore, before we start knitting, we always carefully inspect the needle beds and carriage. If necessary, we perform cleaning/lubrication.

Tenth: cover the car when not knitting

This does not affect the operation of the knitting machine in any way (provided it is cleaned and lubricated in a timely manner). Rather, it concerns the aesthetic side of the issue.

Our knitting machine is always assembled. On days when we are not knitting by machine, I cover it with a fabric sheet. If this is not done, you will have to thoroughly wipe and vacuum it every day. Otherwise, in a week there will be so much dust collected on it that it’s simply unpleasant to look at. It's easier to cover with a cloth.

Eleventh: We write everything down when knitting on Silver

As I already said, my husband teaches me how to operate a Silver Reed machine. At first, I wrote down each step in a notebook. Step by step, something like this:

1. Thread the thread
2. Raise the background
3. Snap the carriage
4. Set... needles
5. Insert the thread into the thread guide, etc.

Later, when this site was created, it helped me prepare -MK, descriptions of our models, how we knitted them. Perhaps over time you will also open your own website in which you will show your products knitted on the machine. Moreover, now it is much easier to do this. There are a lot of different design services that allow you to create websites from ready-made templates for free.

Therefore, if you have not done this before, try to write down the entire algorithm of work, down to the smallest detail. Especially if you have to knit with long breaks (on weekends and holidays).

Your head is always busy with something, and it’s difficult to switch gears on the fly. At first, our knitting periodically did not work due to some simple mistakes: we forgot to switch some button, or something else. Sometimes they were so nervous, they couldn’t understand what was going on. Well, everything was just fine, what happened?!!! They checked it, cleaned it here, changed it here - it doesn’t fit. Oh, that's what it's all about...

And when you start checking yourself against your list of actions, you involuntarily calm down and find mistakes. This is the first thing. And secondly, having written down your mistake, next time it is easier to find the entry and remember from it what it was.

Twelfth: nothing but the devil is joking))

Sometimes situations happen when the car is simply capricious. It's hard to believe, but there's no other way to say it. He resists and does not knit: he throws off the threads and confuses them. It happened that we knit two identical hats in a row or... They tied one, everything is fine. Next we knit the EXACT same second one, it doesn’t fit!

At first they tried to pacify the “horse machine”. And then they reconciled themselves)) So, it’s time to take a break and drink tea. And sure enough, you start knitting after an hour or two, knitting as if nothing had happened. Miracles and that's it...

Thirteenth: We didn’t have time to tie and remove the product from the machine

When we started mastering our Silver, we looked everywhere for different information. And along the way, we read a lot of recommendations, useful and not very useful. One of them was that you should not leave unknitted fabric hanging on the machine for a long time (for example, overnight). Frightened by this advice, we tried to finish knitting and remove it from the fontura “before the first rooster”))

Later they realized that nothing happened to the canvas if it remained on the background overnight. We just make sure to remove the weights so that it doesn’t get delayed. All the same, after removal from the fontura, many knitted items should be allowed to rest for 10-12 hours. During this time, the canvas takes on a real (not stretched) shape.

Fourteenth: preparation for knitting

We always pay special attention to the beginning of knitting. We knit the first rows literally one at a time. We went through one row and carefully checked EVERY loop to see if even the thinnest part of the loop was caught somewhere. After all, the carriage knits quickly. And even if not the entire loop catches on the adjacent needle, but one of its inconspicuous lint catches on another loop, in the next row the carriage will hang the next one from this loop. Instead of making a normal loop.

As a result, on the 4th-6th row everything in this place falls off. And when the knitting “flies” from the needle bed, the true reason is not visible. It seems that everything was fine.

Therefore, we MUST slowly examine ALL needles in use, checking how the loops lie on them. Having noticed something wrong, we immediately eliminate the future problem.

The fifteenth: knit quickly, but without haste

When we first started, we thought that it was enough to thread the thread and start moving the carriage. And you can, while looking at the TV or chatting on the phone, enjoy the wonderful spectacle of how the fabric is quickly knitted. In fact, everything is far from true.

Machine knitting requires constant attention and does not like to be rushed. For example, we have developed a technique for ourselves that we constantly use, taught by bitter experience.

Every 10 rows we rehang the edge weights along the edges of the fabric, tightening the comb. I wrote about this technique in detail in the article, the link to which I gave at the beginning of this article.

And the photo shows a fragment of knitting a women's demi-season beret. Step-by-step photo-MK in

Sixteenth: Why are weights needed when machine knitting?

For the first time we saw our knitting machine in person in the store. Sales consultants showed it unpacked. What especially surprised me was the loads. Ordinary weights, like in Soviet grocery stores.

The seller immediately warned that you need to be careful with them: do not throw them, do not drop them. Since this may break off the hook by which they are hung.

Since before that I had only knitted by hand, at first I couldn’t understand - WHY hang them? They're so heavy. Yes, several pieces per canvas. I watched from the side how dashingly my husband hung them up and kept waiting for the canvas to deteriorate from their weight)) Or the car would break down))

When my husband explained the technical side of machine knitting, I understood. Indeed, when you knit with a machine, the carriage QUICKLY passes along the needle bed and knits all the loops on the needle bed. At the same time, the needles move, bounce, and a new loop is threaded onto each needle.

And, if you do not pull the fabric down with the help of weights, the loops will begin to jump, each will not be put on correctly in its place, and will get tangled. Therefore, you have to calculate how many weights to hang for different canvases.

Seventeenth: How many loads should I hang?

Another point that can influence the fact that knitting “goes” at first, but then doesn’t. The number of weights hung in relation to the number of needles in use.

Over time, you develop the skill to feel how the fabric hangs and how much weight is required for normal knitting. But such an instinct comes only with experience. And it will be difficult for us to say in absentia how much weight you should currently use for your knitting. It depends on the quality, density of the yarn, and the number of needles in the work.

At first, you can follow the “Instructions” exactly. On average, we hang 5 large weights on a product that we knit with 160-180 needles. And we use edging at the edges.

Eighteenth: what threads to start knitting with

A difficult question, the answer to which we searched long and hard. I have already answered this question in detail in the first articles in this series (links at the beginning of the article). As it turns out, for a new knitting machine it is better to choose softer yarn. For example, half-woolen.

Unknowingly, we immediately bought a whole bobbin of linen yarn. It is soft and, naturally, like any bobbin thread, thin. We tried to rewind it on several cones and knit something in at least two folds. But, I managed to knit it after about a year or more, when I became more proficient in machine knitting. description of a hat made from these threads.

Cotton threads for hand knitting worked well right away. These bags were knitted from cotton threads in the first months of training.

But it was easiest to knit with Brilliant Vita wool blend yarn. In theory, it is not intended for machine knitting. But I don’t really like knitting with it by hand - it turns out either a little thin, or a little heavy if you use two threads. And on the car it turns out just gorgeous.

Check out this large case tutorial on how to knit this fashionable baggy beanie hat. We prefer to knit almost all such hats, scarves, and headbands from hand knitting threads.

Summarize.

Learning to machine knit is difficult, time-consuming, but worthwhile. After all, knitted products are always in demand and remain in fashion. Having learned to knit well on a machine, over time you can make money from it.

I wish you a great mood and success in any endeavor!

Best regards, Saule Vagapova

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The forum is the property of the magazine of the same name, dedicated to machine knitting products from various types of yarn. The difference between a forum and a regular website is that here you can not only find out useful information on an issue that interests you, but also discuss it with like-minded people. For example, in different topics there are discussions of technology, features, patterns, secrets and current models for machine knitting. Join members with simple registration.

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On the portal you will find many interesting master classes dedicated to knitting using a special machine. The lessons will help you not only learn about different models and types of products, but will also introduce you to the features, techniques, and secrets of machine knitting in general. All articles are illustrated with step-by-step photographs in good resolution. In addition, there are interesting and high-quality video tutorials that clearly show the process of creating a particular work.

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By clicking on the link, you will find a lot of educational literature on machine knitting, presented in electronic format. When you download it to your device, you will have the most useful information regarding how to knit on a machine correctly, telling you about the features of this type of needlework. Here you can find interesting clothing models and patterns for them. The main condition: to download most of the files, you need to register on the forum and become a regular user.

http://www.forum.softweb.ru/showthread.php?t=21474

The forum is one of the sections of the site dedicated to different techniques and styles of creating clothes and accessories. These also include machine knitting - here you can discuss with like-minded people all the questions that interest you by choosing the desired topic: types of knitting machines, features of needlework, interesting models and patterns for them. To freely communicate with other users, you need to register on the site by submitting an application in the appropriate form.

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The site is a kind of club for machine knitting enthusiasts who, in most cases, use a knitting machine from one specific company. Despite this, the portal will be very useful for other lovers of this type of needlework - there are various useful articles, interesting discussions, and diagrams for making beautiful modern models of clothing and accessories. It is not necessary to register - just log in from one of the social network accounts in which you are registered.

http://sireed840.ucoz.ru/

On this portal you can find many useful tips that make life easier for a needlewoman who practices machine knitting! Here are articles about how to knit correctly, what decorative elements there are, how best to change threads, combine and select them, and also count the number of stitches in a row. In addition, you can read about the different types of knitting machines and learn how to choose the most suitable model for yourself.

http://vilushka.ru/mashin/mashin.html

This portal contains many interesting video tutorials on machine knitting techniques. You have the opportunity to familiarize yourself with various analytical and educational articles, supported by good high-resolution illustrations. The materials contain information about different types of knitted elements, descriptions of models and patterns for implementation, useful tips, subtleties and tricks. In addition, certain sections of the site are devoted to hand crocheting and knitting.

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Do you want to learn how to knit using a machine? Then quickly read the articles on this site! From them you will learn how to correctly cast on, decrease and add stitches in a knitted product, find descriptions of models and diagrams for their implementation, and understand the very principle of machine knitting. Selected materials will help beginning needleworkers figure out which machine and yarn is best to buy. Find detailed instructions in the special section “Knitting machines”.

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Greetings! Today I will reveal a few "secrets" of knitting on a machine. I think this information will be very useful for those who are just planning to take up machine knitting.

In particular, we will talk about yarn that can be used when knitting on a machine. And also, about some important points of the knitting process, which are revealed over time, as a result of numerous mistakes and many hours of searching.

  • What yarn is needed for machine knitting?
  • Why are loops reset?
  • How to replace a spoke in a load holder?
  • How to rewind threads?

I’m sure similar questions arise for many who take up a knitting machine for the first time.

The word “secrets” in this case is quite arbitrary, because no one specifically hides such information. It’s just that over time you begin to learn the true meaning of the expression that “a smart person learns from the mistakes of others.” Indeed, this allows you not only to save time, but also to save your nerves, which are spent a lot in the first days of mastering the intricacies of machine knitting.

Therefore, I offer this article to beginners as food for thought and an opportunity to avoid some problems when knitting on a Silver Reed 840 machine.

Read also the next article in this series « »

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The article is structured in the form of an “interview”, since the reason for writing it was some questions received by mail. If you also have new questions, please ask them in the comments, because I don’t always have time to answer in private. And here the answers will be available to other visitors.

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First. Is it possible to knit on a machine with the same yarn used for knitting and crocheting?

Yes, on a machine you can knit not only with special yarn - in bobbins. But also with threads intended for hand knitting. They look like this, i.e. sold in skeins.

But for this you need a winder. When we first assembled our knitting machine, of course, we immediately began looking for information about what threads to knit with. Almost everywhere it was written that threads that were industrially collected into bobbins should be used. In the store where we first chose yarn, they also said that we should buy a whole bobbin. When we asked how to knit several threads from such a large bobbin, we received the answer that we could order it and they would rewind us the required quantity. Or, you need to purchase a winder.

It turned out that we constantly had to make an order in advance. Moreover, at that time we had no idea how many threads went into products, etc. Moreover, we could not even imagine what a ball should look like when it was rewound. It’s good that the store itself had such balls ready-made. So, during the first rewind, we already had some idea of ​​what should happen in the end.

Second. What types of winders are there? And where can I buy such a rewinding device?

As far as I know, there are different reels, including electric ones. But today we are quite satisfied with the device for manual rewinding from the Camma company, which we immediately bought at the Verbena store (Ufa). Then, in 2012, its price was 1000 rubles. I was very happy about this, because I saw them on the Internet for 1,500 rubles. Now, that is, in November 2014, I saw 1300 rubles in a store.

I won’t give any special advice about where to buy them, since everyone lives in different regions. One thing I can say from personal experience is that of all the stores where we buy yarn, we only found them in Verbena.

In addition, I saw that they offer exactly these on the Odnoklassniki social network, also at a very reasonable price. True, I can’t give a link; I don’t remember who I saw it from. But if someone needs it, I can look for it.

I will quote part of the text from the specified page:

“Proper preparation of the thread for knitting is very important. This will make the knitting process easier and more enjoyable. In addition, the quality of your products will noticeably improve. It is impossible to knit with thread from a skein or ball wound by hand. We recommend using a winder to wind the yarn into balls suitable for machine knitting.”

Now, when we need to knit with thread in two or three folds, we rewind from the main bobbin, that is, we prepare more skeins. And we knit, for example, in two threads, like this.

Third. How to rewind knitting threads on a machine?

To knit with hand knitting yarn, it MUST be rewound. This can be done, for example, using a hand winder.

I must say that this is another difficult moment that we had to overcome. It turned out that it was not enough to buy a winder. I had to figure out how to wind the threads around it. The store did not explain this, they said that there were instructions, they say, everything is clear in it.

Yes, everything was clear, except for one thing - so what is there to reel in? If you directly onto the cone of the winder, when you remove the resulting ball, it does not hold its shape and tends to fall on its side. Although, in the photo in the Instructions that I showed earlier, it looks like the tip of the thread is pulled out from the middle.

It was then that an idea came that would seem strange to those uninitiated in the action of machine knitting (to say the least:). They began to use toilet paper rolls as the base on which the thread was wound. And, thanks to which it holds the entire ball perfectly.

If necessary, see the detailed photo-MK, which showed:

  • what does a hand reel look like,
  • how to use bushings as cones,
  • what a skein should look like ready for knitting on a machine, etc.

Fourth. Why put yarn in pots?

One day a letter came with the following question. The girl was perplexed why some websites recommend putting threads in pots while knitting.

This feeling of surprise was very familiar to us, because a kind stranger in the store advised approximately the same thing when we, being complete beginners, were choosing yarns: “Put the skeins in two saucepans and knit for yourself”.

The essence of the idea is not what to put the skeins in. It often happens like this: when the thread in a ball runs out, this ball begins to “jump and jump” when passing the next row. And it might even fly off the table.

When the skein is full, the thread calmly slides off it, the bobbin does not even budge. But when the thread in the skein runs out, it becomes very light. The carriage passes quickly, the thread should also unwind quickly, that is, the cone rotates at high speed, rushing around the table. When it “flies” off the table, picking it up is troublesome.

To avoid this, we place small balls and incomplete bobbins in a container in advance. For example, in a cup (two or three liters in volume). Then, when rotating, they hit its edges, but do not fall. Accordingly, they do not interfere with knitting.

Fifth. What yarn can you knit on the Silver machine?Is it true that cotton is not suitable for it?

I will answer briefly here. The Silver Reed 840 is a great car. We knit on it with acrylic, semi-wool (blend wool), linen thread, and cotton thread.

Cotton knits perfectly both bobbin and hand knitted. elm (for example, "Coco", "Pelican"). Knitting stitch, openwork, elastic bands - everything works out. The main thing is to choose them correctly according to the thickness (density) that the machine “takes”. More on this below.

Sixth. Can I use hand knitting thread on the Silver Reed 840?

To find the answer to the same question, at the very beginning of our training we had to “shove through” a lot of different Internet resources. As for the yarn in bobbins, intended specifically for machine knitting, there were no special problems. In online stores selling threads, it is easy to read all the data on threads: composition, density, etc.

There was very little information regarding knitting with yarn intended for hand knitting. In the end, I had to find out experimentally. We bought different yarns intended for hand knitting and started knitting.

And they found out that for our Silver Reed class 5 machine, yarn in the range of 300 - 600 m/100g is suitable. Let me remind you that before knitting, such threads are first rewound. Now we constantly knit hats, scarves, and shirtfronts with such threads.

We also tried thicker threads, 220-250 m/100 g. The machine knits, albeit with difficulty. But the canvas is not very attractive, it costs a lot.

Seventh. What to do if the loops on the edge of the canvas keep falling off?

To prevent the thread along the edge of the canvas from flying off the needles, every 10 rows we hang and rehang edge weights.

Let's do it like this. When 20 rows are knitted, from two edges, in turn, we feel for the beginning of the knitting and carefully pull it down. At this moment, you need to look not under the machine (you can’t see anything there anyway), but at the needles of the place where you are doing the pull. You can immediately see that they are aligned and the thread “fits” into the groove of the needle. They pulled it back with their hand and hung the load. Repeated on the right side. I usually knit while standing, so I squat down. If I'm sitting on a chair, I just lean to the left, then to the right.

The above applies to double-ply knitting. Naturally, with one pattern it is easier to observe what is happening during the knitting process. And it’s easier to re-weight the loads.

It may seem like a hassle to do all these extra movements with weights. Yes, this is an additional load on all muscles. But now we have practically forgotten about the dropped loops at the moment when part of the fabric is knitted. It happens, but rarely.

By the way, we showed another “secret” with a video lesson “”. It seems like a simple question, but it’s asked often.

Eighth. Why hang weights?

We, too, at first could not understand the meaning of this action. Why is it necessary to immediately attach the comb, and then the weights? What will happen if you don’t hang it?

Now, of course, we understand that if this is not done in a timely manner, the loops can (and will) jump out of the needles. In general, knitting will not work. This has already been said above when it came to hanging edge weights, I will not repeat it.

But, since we are talking about the mounted comb, I want to add some information from personal experience.

The spokes in the load holder comb can be changed. They are sold in some stores. Let's say we bought it at Verbena. Sellers call this knitting needle simply - “rod”.

The fact is that as a result of our experiments with thick thread, our rod quite quickly lost its shape and was completely bent. As a result, we have a serious problem. Every time I threaded it into the comb, I had to suffer. The knitting needle stuck everywhere, it didn’t want to fit into the holes. Especially at the end of the line, when there were 7-10 centimeters left.

It would seem that it would be easier to replace everything. But buying it turned out to be difficult. Firstly, because they are not sold in all the stores where we got the yarn. Secondly, a couple of times when we came to a store where they can still be found on sale, and asked about the knitting needle, we heard that “they are already sold out.” Recently I finally managed to buy these precious rods (they took two at once, 120 rubles each) and breathe freely.

So, the conclusion is this: it is better to handle the knitting needle in the tension comb with care. It seems like a small thing, but it turns out it’s not at all.

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That's all for today. Thank you for your attention. I hope the article will be useful to those who are at the beginning of their creative journey in machine knitting.

Best regards, Saule Vagapova

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