Traditional Russian folk costume is clothing of Slavic culture. Russian folk costume Message about the costume

Nina Meilun
"Russian folk costume." Cognitive conversation with children of senior preschool age

teacher of group No. 12

Meilun Nina Vikentievna

MBDOU TsRR No. 25 "BEE" Smolensk 2014

Target:

To give an idea of ​​folk costume as an element of the traditional culture of the Russian people (On the history of the creation and purpose of individual costume units, methods of cutting, ornament and decoration);

Develop aesthetic perception;

To foster patriotic feelings and interest in Russian history.

Structure of the conversation:

Teacher's story on the topic;

Examination of illustrations;

Didactic game “Assemble a suit”;

Quiz "Russian costume".

Teacher's story on the topic:

Folk costume

A traditional set of clothing characteristic of a particular area. It is distinguished by the peculiarities of cut, compositional and plastic solution, texture and color of the fabric, the nature of the decor (motives and techniques for making the ornament, as well as the composition of the costume and the way of wearing its various parts.

The main fabrics used for folk peasant clothing were homespun canvas and wool of simple plain weave, and from the middle of the 19th century. - factory-made silk, satin, brocade with ornaments of lush flower garlands and bouquets, calico, chintz, satin, colored cashmere.

Shirt

Part of a Russian traditional costume.

In the cut of many shirts, polyki were used - inserts that expand the upper part. The shape of the sleeves was different - straight or tapering towards the wrist, loose or gathered, with or without gussets, they were gathered under a narrow trim or under a wide cuff decorated with lace. Shirts were decorated with embroidery using linen, silk, wool or gold threads. The pattern was located on the collar, shoulders, sleeves and hem.

Kosovorotka

An original Russian men's shirt with a fastener that was located asymmetrically: on the side (a shirt with an oblique collar, and not in the middle of the front. The collar is a tiny stand-up.

Shirts were worn untucked, not tucked into trousers. They were belted with a silk corded belt or a woven wool belt.

Kosovorotki were sewn from linen, silk, and satin. Sometimes they embroidered on the sleeves, hem, and collar.

Men's shirts:

The kosovorotki of ancient peasants were a structure of two panels that covered the back and chest and were connected at the shoulders by 4-angled pieces of fabric. All classes wore shirts of the same cut. The only difference was the quality of the fabric.

Women's shirts:

Unlike the men's blouse, the women's shirt could reach the hem of the sundress and was called a "stan". Women's shirts carried different meanings and were called everyday, holiday, mowing, fortune-telling, wedding and funeral. Women's shirts were made from homespun fabrics: linen, canvas, wool, hemp, hemp. A deep meaning was laid in the elements of decorating a woman’s shirt. Various symbols, horses, birds, the tree of life, plant patterns corresponded to various pagan deities. Red shirts were amulets against evil spirits and misfortunes.

Children's shirts:

The first diaper for a newborn boy was the father's shirt, for the girl the mother's shirt. They tried to sew children's shirts from the fabric of their father's or mother's worn shirt. It was believed that the strength of the parents would protect the baby from damage and the evil eye. For boys and girls, the shirt looked the same: a toe-length linen blouse. Mothers always decorated their children's shirts with embroidery. All patterns had protective meanings. As soon as the children moved to a new stage, they were entitled to the first shirt made of new fabric. At three years old, first new shirt. At the age of 12, poneva for girls and pants for boys.

Hats:

In the history of Russian fashion there was also such a headdress as a cap. A cap is a men's headdress with a visor. It was created for the summer from factory-made cloth, tights, corduroy, velvet, lined.

The cap was similar in shape to a cap, but did not have distinctive signs indicating affiliation with a particular department.

Sundress:

The sundress is the main element of the Russian women's traditional costume. Known among peasants since the 14th century. In the most common version of the cut, a wide panel of fabric was gathered in small folds - with a clothespin under a narrow bodice with straps.

Sundress - as a category of Russian women's clothing, is familiar to contemporaries not only in Russia. The fashion for them never went away. A sundress is a long dress with straps, worn over a shirt or on a naked body. From time immemorial, the sundress has been considered a Russian women's costume.

The Russian sundress was worn both as casual and festive clothing. A girl of marriageable age was supposed to have up to 10 sundresses of different colors in her dowry. Representatives of the wealthy classes and nobility sewed rich sundresses from expensive overseas fabrics (velvet, silk, etc., brought from Persia, Turkey, Italy. It was decorated with embroidery, braid and lace. Such a sundress emphasized the social status of the hostess.

Russian sundresses consisted of many elements, so they were very heavy, especially festive ones. Slanted sundresses were made from “hair” - sheep’s wool woven black with a decoction of alder and oak. There was a difference between holiday and weekday sundresses. Festive ones for every day were decorated along the hem with a “chitan” (“gaitan”, “gaitanchik”) - a 1 cm thin homemade braid made of red wool. The top was decorated with a strip of velvet. However, not only woolen sundresses were worn every day. Like light, home-style clothing, "sayan" is a straight sundress made of satin, gathered into a small fold along the back and sides. The young wore “red” or “burgundy” sayans, and the elderly wore blue and black.

In Russian villages, the sundress played a special role; from it one could learn about a woman’s social status (whether she was married, whether she had children) and her mood (there were costumes for the holiday and for kruchina). Later, with the coming to power of Peter I, the appearance of the wealthy Russian class changed. The traditional Russian sundress was now considered the clothing of commoners and merchants' daughters. The return of the sundress to the wardrobe of Russian ladies occurred with the beginning

reign of Catherine II.

Kokoshnik:

The name “kokoshnik” comes from the ancient Slavic “kokosh”, which meant chicken and rooster. A characteristic feature of the kokoshnik is the comb, the shape of which was different in different provinces. Kokoshniks were made on a solid base, decorated on top with brocade, braid, beads, beads, pearls, and for the richest - with precious stones. Kokoshnik is an ancient Russian headdress in the form of a fan or a round shield around the head. Kichka and magpie were worn only by married women, and kokoshnik - even by unmarried women.

The magpie was named so because the scarf had a kind of tail and two wings. Probably, it was the magpie that became the prototype of today's bandana.

Kokoshniks were considered a great family value. The peasants carefully preserved the kokoshniks and passed them on by inheritance.

The kokoshnik was considered a festive and even wedding headdress.

They embroidered expensive fabric with gold, silver and pearls, and then stretched it onto a solid (birch bark, later cardboard) base. The kokoshnik had a fabric bottom. The lower edge of the kokoshnik was often trimmed with under-bottoms - a net of pearls, and on the sides, above the temples, Ryasna was attached - strands of pearl beads falling low on the shoulders.

Clothes were of great value; they were not lost or thrown away, but were taken very good care of, repeatedly altered and worn until they were completely worn out.

The poor man's festive attire was passed from parents to children. The nobility sought to ensure that her costume differed from the clothing of commoners.

Festive clothes were stored in chests.

In the ornaments on clothes you can see the image of the sun, stars, the Tree of Life with birds on the branches, flowers, figures of people and animals. Such a symbolic ornament connected a person with the surrounding nature, with the wonderful world of legends and myths.

Russian folk clothing has a centuries-old history.

Details varied in color and texture, but perfectly matched to each other, created an outfit that seemed to complement the harsh nature of the region, coloring it with bright colors. All the costumes were different from each other, but at the same time they had common features:

Straight, widened silhouette of the product and sleeves;

The predominance of symmetrical compositions with the rhythm of rounded lines in details and decoration;

The use of decorative patterned fabrics with the effect of gold and silver, trim with embroidery, fabric of a different color, fur

Examination of illustrations of elements of Russian folk costume:

South Russian land complex;

North Russian word of mouth complex;

(shirts; ponevas; hats; shoes; outerwear).

Didactic game “Assemble a suit”:

Purpose: to teach children to recognize the elements of Russian folk costume on the tables and cards of the game;

Develop observation and resourcefulness; aesthetic perception; interest in Russian history;

Enrich the vocabulary: sundress, poneva, kokoshnik, magpie, bast shoes, boots, onuchi, soul warmer, epanechka, etc. etc.

Quiz “Russian costume”:

What did a woman's costume consist of in Rus'? (sundress, shirt, kokoshnik or magpie, ribbon, bast shoes or boots);

What did men wear in Rus'? (shirt, ports, cap, bast shoes or boots);

What did you wear over your shirt in cold weather? (Caftan, vest, sheepskin coat or fur coat);

What were newborn diapers made from? (From parents’ clothes because it was believed that it would protect against evil spirits);

At what age was a child sewn a shirt from new canvas? (3 years);

What patterns were used to decorate clothes in Rus' (floral, geometric, symbols of the sun, protective);

Why were long-sleeve shirts sewn? (For the holiday);

Was it possible to distinguish a rich person from a poor person by his clothes? (Only based on the quality of fabric and decorations).

Literature:

F. M. Parmon Russian folk costume as an artistic and constructive source of creativity. Moscow Lenprombytizdat 1994.

Russian folk costume and its traditions are increasingly becoming a source of inspiration for modern designers. Fashion is constantly undergoing dramatic changes, turning to the past in search of new and fresh solutions. Shirts, skirts, dresses, sundresses are endowed with the features of national outfits that came from the mysterious times of Ancient Rus'. What did the women, men and children who lived in those centuries shrouded in mystery wear?

Unique Features

The history of Russian folk costume has been going on for many centuries. Natural conditions, hard field work from dark to dark, religious rituals - all these factors influenced the appearance of national costumes. Peasant clothing was characterized by maximum functionality. Shirts, ports, sundresses provided room for movement, did not cause inconvenience, and effectively saved from the cold. Work suits were devoid of buttons; people wore sashes and used wide bosoms as spacious pockets.

Constructiveness, practicality and simplicity did not at all force the inhabitants of Ancient Rus' to abandon bright colors in clothing. Ribbons, lace, appliqués in the form of squares and diamonds, and embroidery with colored threads were used as decoration. Russian folk costume often involved combining fabrics that differ in color. The patterns on the elements of the outfit adjacent to the body took on the function of a talisman that protected against evil spirits. Sleeves, hems, and collars were decorated with ornaments.

Men's clothing in different regions was not much different; it was characterized by monotony, while when looking at a women's suit it was easy to guess in which part of the country its owner lived.

Colors and paints

Dyeing of fabrics in Ancient Rus' was done using natural dyes. This is precisely the reason for the mysterious popularity of red. In those days, madder grew in almost all vegetable gardens; it was this weed that provided the peasants with paint. Therefore, Russian folk costume evokes associations with the color red, and not with green. Green silks supplied by the East almost did not penetrate into peasant life, and there were no natural dyes of this color.

In addition to red, white and blue colors were popular, which popular rumor, like red, endowed with protective properties.

Shirts for women

It is impossible to imagine a Russian folk costume (female version) without a shirt. It was worn by representatives of all classes without exception. The product was called a camp, its length was up to the hem of the sundress. Models of original styles with gathered sleeves were in use. They were popular with nursing mothers. Special outfits were created for funerals and weddings; shirts were divided into festive and everyday ones.

The main materials from which this element of women's clothing was created were wool, flax, and hemp. Particularly interesting are decorative ornaments that had a special meaning. The drawings most often depicted birds and horses, the tree of life and plant designs that paid tribute to the pagan gods. Red shirts traditionally acted as mascots. It was believed that they ward off troubles and drive away demons.

Shirts for men

Men's shirts were not particularly diverse. They were a structure assembled from two panels that covered the chest and back. Quadrangular fabric cuts located on the shoulders were used as a connecting element. The cut of the shirt remained unchanged, no matter what class its owner belonged to. The financial situation could only be determined by the quality characteristics of the fabric. Satin and silk are for the rich, linen is for the poor.

Shirts were worn untucked and were never tucked into trousers. Such things could be made in various colors. Woolen and silk products served as belts (sometimes there were tassels at the ends).

Shirts for children

The first Russian folk costume for a boy was his father's kosovorotka; the baby was wrapped in it. For newborn girls, the mother's shirt served as such a diaper. When creating children's outfits, sections of mother's or father's worn clothes were often used. This was done not out of economy, but to please the belief that the baby is saved from the evil eye by parental power.

It is impossible to see the difference in the appearance of the shirts intended for children of different sexes - these are absolutely identical shirts, reaching all the way to the floor. An obligatory decorative element is embroidery applied by the mother's hand. Drawings have always taken on the functions of protective amulets.

Reaching the age of three for children was marked by receiving a new shirt. Twelve-year-old boys were required to wear trousers in addition; girls were dressed in ponevas. In general, Russian folk costume for children was not much different from the clothing of adults.

Sundresses

When our contemporaries depict Russian folk costume, a women's sundress is most often seen. Peasant women began to wear this outfit from the 14th century; its final adoption in the wardrobe occurred only in the 17th century. The appearance of clothing depended on the region of residence; fabrics, colors and cuts differed. The most popular option is a wide fabric panel, gathered in graceful folds, straps, and a narrow bodice. A sundress was worn on a naked body or over a shirt.

There were festive and everyday options. The first ones were worn at wedding feasts, church holidays were held in them, and folk festivals were attended. The bride's dowry had to include at least ten sundresses, made in different colors. The quality of the fabric depended on belonging to a certain class. Silk and velvet are an option for the rich. Such an outfit, lavishly decorated with lace, braid and embroidery, spoke of the high social status of its owner.

The Russian folk costume - a women's sundress - was also interesting for its weight. The holiday versions were incredibly heavy, and the everyday versions were not far behind them. The most common household outfit was called “sayan”; it looked like a satin product gathered on the sides and back. Color solutions depended on age. Older ladies preferred black and blue models, while young girls preferred burgundy and red tones.

The peasant woman's sundress told literally everything about her. Does she have a husband and children, what mood is she in (there were even special outfits “for sadness”).

Caps

It’s hard to imagine a Russian folk costume (men’s version) without a perky cap. This headdress, with a visor, reigned in the national wardrobe in the 19th century. Summer versions were made of velvet, plush, and cloth. The visors were covered with fabric or leather, and were made in an inclined, semicircular, or straight form. Options for the holiday were decorated with beads and ribbons, flowers (real and artificial).

This headdress gained the greatest popularity among retired officials, managers, and village landowners.

Ports

Men's ports were made from pieces of homespun cloth or canvas; the connecting part was a rhombic piece - the fly. Such trousers were gathered at the waist with a gasket. Russian folk costume for boys included ports from the age of 12. The colors were varied, the products were made from motley fabric, home dyeing, and homespun. Higher quality fabrics were used to create “output” options, or vertical patterns were used to decorate homespun fabrics.

Somewhat later, trousers without a fly, equipped with wider legs, a belt and buttons, became an element of the holiday wardrobe. Pockets were often present. The appearance of pants gave ports the function of underwear.

Ponevy

Poneva can be called the great-great-grandmother of the modern skirt. This element of the wardrobe is older than the sundress that appeared later; it was traditionally worn over a shirt and complemented by an apron. The ancient “skirt” was present in the wardrobe of adult women. Russian folk costume for girls included it only upon reaching puberty. Most often, poneva was made of wool and consisted of several sewn pieces of fabric.

Colors and styles depended on the area of ​​residence. There were blind models, open on the side or front, hinged, with stitching. Gradually, they were almost completely replaced by sundresses.

Kokoshniks

From the ancient Slavic language “kokosh” is translated as “rooster and hen”. Kokoshniks were made on a solid basis and could take a wide variety of shapes. Their jewelry was very interesting - beads, pearls, beads, brocade. Wealthy ladies wore kokoshniks with precious stones. Kokoshniks cannot be seen when studying Russian folk costume for girls, because they were considered the exclusive prerogative of married women. Unmarried people wore the great-great-grandmother of today's bandana - the magpie.

The comb of the kokoshnik indicated that the woman belonged to a certain province. In the Siberian region, crescents have become widespread. In Kostroma, Pskov, Vladimir - arrowheads. Kokoshniks were regarded as family heirlooms and were inherited by the daughter from the mother, and were necessarily included in the dowry. They were not considered as an element of everyday wardrobe. These headdresses were intended for holidays; even brides wore them at weddings.

Kokoshniks are also known as a national amulet. They were decorated with symbols of fidelity and fertility.

Shoes

Russian folk costume - for children and adults - includes bast shoes, known as the most common shoes. Lapti were festive and everyday, worn at any time of the year with white cloth onuchs and canvas. The role of fastening was played by ropes, wrapping the lower leg crosswise over the ankles. Leather boots and felt boots were available to wealthy peasants.

The dream of young people and the rich were patent leather boots with hard tops in the shape of bottles. Soft tops, gathered into an accordion, came already in the 20th century. Women's and men's shoes did not differ much.

Modern look

Interest in the history of national costumes and the predominance of ethnic motifs can be clearly seen in modern fashion. Do-it-yourself Russian folk costume is created for carnivals and performances. Its features are often found in everyday outfits, not only in Russia, but also in other countries.

A striking example of attention to clothing “from the past” is the revived popularity of felt boots. Of course, these products bear little resemblance to their predecessors. They are decorated with leather inserts, bright beads, and colorful embroidery. These shoes are also worn abroad. Its popularity is not limited to the Russian Federation. Boots and shoes decorated with floral embroidery and sandals with a wicker platform won particular love.

Bright fabrics made in the style of a Russian scarf are also held in high esteem by famous fashion designers who are trying to reproduce Russian folk costume. Flowers serve as the main patterns, a large element is located in the center, small details are concentrated at the edges. There is a high level of interest in national lace. With its help, fashionable outfits acquire a slight exoticism, mystery, and romance.

World fashion owes to Russian culture the popularity of embroidery with colored threads and the demand for decorative cord, ribbons and beads. National appliqués, which are used in women's, men's and children's clothing, are especially widely known. In winter and autumn, traditional boyar hats, posad scarves, vests with fur trim, and sheepskin coats in national motifs are constantly seen on the streets.

"Russian" weddings

Russian-style weddings have been in great demand in recent years. Brides dress in white sundresses, decorated with national ornaments, and put on red kokoshniks. The outfits are complemented by hairstyles based on a classic braid, into which flowers and ribbons are woven. There is no doubt: wearing a Russian folk costume, you will get excellent photos.

All peoples of the world have their own. Russian began to take shape in the 5th century based on elements of the costume of the ancient Rus - inhabitants of Eastern Europe, the common ancestors of the Slavic peoples. The decoration of the Russians was distinctive, had its own characteristics and corresponded to the way of life of the people.

The traditional costume, widespread over a vast territory of Russia, is quite diverse, especially. Each region had its own characteristic elements in clothing, unique only to that province. The clothes of the elderly woman were different from those of the girl; on weekdays they wore one robe, on holidays they wore completely different outfits.

Peasant clothing

It was possible to distinguish four sets of women's attire: with a paneva, a sundress, an andarak skirt, and a kubelka. Paneva is the oldest element of women's clothing, a set with paneva was formed in the 6th–7th centuries and included a shirt, an apron, a bib, a headdress - a kichka, bast shoes, and was common in many provinces of central Russia and the south of Russia.

Shirts, soul warmers, kokoshniks, etc. were worn with sundresses. Women of Altai, the Urals, the Volga region, Siberia, and the north of the European part of Russia dressed up in such clothes. The heyday of this costume occurred in the 15th–17th centuries.

Cossack women of the North Caucasus and the Don wore a dress with a cap, accompanied by a shirt with wide sleeves and long pants. The clothing of men throughout Rus' was monotonous and consisted of a shirt-shirt, narrow pants, bast shoes or leather shoes, and a hat.

Noble costume

The peculiarity of the national Russian dress is the abundance of outerwear, capes and swings. The clothing of the nobility belongs to the Byzantine type. In the 17th century, elements borrowed from the Polish toilet appeared in it. To preserve the originality of the costume, by a royal decree of August 1675, nobles, solicitors, and stewards were forbidden to wear foreign attire.

The costume of the nobility was made of expensive fabrics, richly decorated with gold embroidery, pearls, and buttons made of gold and silver. At that time there was no concept - fashion, style did not change for centuries, a rich dress was inherited from generation to generation.

Until the end of the 17th century, national clothes were worn by all classes: boyars, princes, artisans, merchants, peasants. The reformer Tsar Peter I brought the fashion for European costume to Russia and banned the wearing of national vestments for all classes except peasants and monks. The peasants remained faithful to the national decoration until the end of the 19th century.

Nowadays you won’t see a person dressed in a national costume on the street, but some elements inherent in Russian traditional costume have migrated into modern fashion.

Russian national dresses are a combination of rich colors and a large number of details that create a complete image. Several centuries ago, just by one suit one could understand from which province or village its wearer came. In addition, Russian craftswomen created festive outfits that were different from each other for each special event. You will learn about the history of the national costume and the details that create it in this article.

Features of the national costume

Russian traditional outfits have always been divided into everyday and festive. Our ancestors very clearly distinguished simpler clothes made from coarse fabrics with a minimum amount of decorative elements from more colorful outfits for special events. Red clothing was considered the most luxurious.

Initially, in Rus', all costumes were created by skilled women's hands from dense homespun materials. This also made the outfits more special. The main materials for sewing dresses were cloth, linen and silk. The role of the lining was played by kindyak, a special lining fabric.

The fabric base was complemented by a large number of details, as well as accessories and shoes, which together made up a harmonious image.

These images differed significantly depending on the regions. So, for example, people from the northern regions of Russia wore more outerwear. It was both swing and cape, and in some cases these two types of outfits were combined. The cover-up garment was put on over the head, while the swing-up garment was fastened with buttons or hook-shaped fasteners.

Clothing for the nobility also deserves special attention. It was, of course, more expensive and luxurious. Dresses for the nobility were embroidered with gold or silver threads, decorated with pearls and other decorative elements. Such an expensive outfit was worn for more than one year. As a rule, it was passed down from generation to generation, preserved in its proper form.

History of Russian costume

During its existence, the national Russian costume has remained virtually unchanged. The concept of fashion was less changeable than it is now; the same style could be worn by several generations of the same family.

Dresses in the traditional Russian style became less common at the beginning of the eighteenth century. Then the ancient Russian costume was banned by Peter the Great, who wanted to make Russia more modern. The national attire was replaced by costumes in the Hungarian style, and later in German and French. In order for the innovations to take root, the ruler introduced a duty on wearing traditional Russian outfits in the city.

Female

Outfits for women have always been more interesting and varied than men's. They were real examples of the art of talented Russian women. Since the times of Ancient Rus', a woman's costume consisted of a sorochnitsa (a simple floor-length shirt), a sundress and an apron. Often, for additional warmth, another thick shirt was worn under the shirt.

Embroidery has always been an integral part of any traditional outfit. In each province it differed in colors and patterns. The hem and sleeves were decorated with embroidery.

The dresses worn by women in Rus' are noteworthy. During the time of Ivan the Terrible, girls who dressed up in just one dress were considered obscene. It was customary to wear three dresses one on top of the other. This suit turned out to be very heavy and massive.

Male

For men from the common class, suits were made that were practical and comfortable. Russian culture has always been inseparable from nature and the earth. This was reflected in simple peasant clothes, which were sewn from natural fabrics and decorated with plant patterns.

A man's suit consisted of a simple shirt, pants and a belt. The head was covered with felted wool. The most common shoes were bast shoes. Light and comfortable, they protected the legs well while working in the field, but were not suitable for winter. With the advent of cold weather, the traditional Russian costume was supplemented with felt boots, and on holidays - with leather boots.

For children

Children in Ancient Rus' wore simpler clothes. As a rule, these were simple loose shirts. For the children of the nobility, more sophisticated outfits were created. Sometimes they almost completely copied an adult costume. But young girls, unlike adult women, did not wear headdresses until marriage.

Features and meaning of parts

As already mentioned, details in the Russian national costume played a very important role.

Men's suit details

The basis of the national men's costume was a simple shirt. In the outfits of simple peasants, it was the basis of the costume, while the nobility wore it as underwear. It was made of linen or silk. From the inside, the front and back parts of the shirt were supplemented with a lining, which was called the underlining. The wide sleeves of the shirt tapered towards the wrists.

The appearance of the gate varied. It could be rounded, square or completely absent. If there was a collar, it was complemented with ties or buttons.

The costume was also complemented with such details as zipun, opashen and okhaben. All these things are varieties of caftans. A scroll, casing or homespun was worn over the shirt and caftan. For more formal occasions, a ceremonial cloak (korzno) or single-row coat made of woolen fabric was used.

Fur coats were also popular. Peasants wore simpler items made of thick sheepskin or hare fur. Representatives of the upper class allowed themselves to flaunt in outfits made of silver fox, sable or marten.

In order to keep warm inside, fur coats were sewn with the fur inside. On the outside they were covered with thick cloth. Dresses for the nobility were embroidered with brocade or velvet. The wide fur collar added luxury to the fur coat.

Traditional Russian-style fur coats were floor-length. The sleeves were also very long, and the arms were threaded not only through them, but also into special slits located in the front. They were worn not only in winter, but also in summer, to create a formal look.

Another important detail of a Russian men's costume is a headdress in the national style. There were several types of hats: tafya, klobuk, murmolka and three-hat.

Tafya was a small round hat that fit tightly to the head. A simple hat was often worn over it. Ordinary people chose felt options, richer people chose velvet ones.

Murmolki were hats that were tall and widening towards the top. Gorlat hats were created using a similar principle. Only they were additionally decorated with furs coming from the very throat. Fox, sable or hare fur both decorated the hat and warmed the head.

Details of a woman's costume

The basis of the women's national costume was also a shirt. It was decorated with embroidery or exquisite trim. Noble Russian ladies also wore a maid's shirt made of bright silk over a simple undershirt. The most elegant option is a scarlet maid shirt.

Women wore a summer jacket over their shirts. The ancient floor-length outfit was made of silk and complemented with clasps at the very throat. Noble women wore a flyer decorated with gold embroidery or pearls, and a necklace adorned their collar.

A warmer alternative to the letnik in the national women's costume was the fur coat. A long fur coat decorated with fur with decorative sleeves was a sign of luxury, since it was not particularly practical. The arms were either threaded into special slots under the sleeves, or into the sleeves themselves, which were rolled up for convenience. You could warm your palms in a muff, which was not only decorated with a fur trim, but also stitched with fur from the inside.

Such a detail of the costume as the headdress also played an important role. All married women in Rus' always covered their hair, even while at home. In everyday life, the head was covered with a volosnik or a warrior, tying an elegant colorful scarf on top.

The corollas (wide headbands complemented by long colorful ribbons), which were worn in the summer, looked more elegant. In winter they were replaced by fur hats. But the traditional Russian costume is still often associated with the kokoshnik - an elegant headdress in the form of a fan. Whenever possible, it was richly decorated and became the main addition to the outfit.

National motifs in modern fashion or ethnic style

Although the traditional costume is now only part of the rich Russian history, many designers use its details to create modern outfits. Ethnic style is now in trend, so every fashionista should pay attention to such clothes.

Dresses in the Russian style should be restrained, because vulgarity, short skirts and too deep a neckline are simply inappropriate here. One of the main values ​​of our ancestors was chastity. Girls were expected to dress modestly and discreetly, without flaunting their bodies. Modern outfits in Russian ethnic style are created according to the same principle.

The peasantry is the keeper of aesthetic ideas and traditions in folk costume

The Russian national costume was preserved mainly in the peasant layer of society, since by decree of Peter I the ruling classes of Russia had to switch to compulsory wearing of foreign-style dress. The formation of the composition, cover, and characteristics of the ornament was influenced by the geographical environment and climatic conditions, the economic way of life and the level of development of the productive forces. The vastness of the settlement area, various natural environments and raw materials, the nature of customs and living conditions became the reason for the emergence of diverse clothing options. Thus, there was no single national costume in Russia.

So, in women's clothing, with all the abundance of types, four complexes are distinguished:

1. Shirt with poneva and magpie headdress.

2. Shirt with sundress and kokoshnik.

3. Shirt with skirt - andarak.

4. Cable dress.

The first two are the main ones. The costumes differed from each other in their components, features of cut and decoration. The evolution of costume among the people occurred slowly. The first complex covered the southern and central regions of Russia - Oryol, Kursk, Ryazan, Tambov, Tula, Moscow, Kaluga provinces. In each of them he had significant differences.

South Russian costume: more ancient in origin. It consists of a long canvas shirt, over which married women wore a loincloth - ponevu, and there was certainly an apron (curtain, cufflink). Next came the chest garment, which went down just below the waist and had a variety of names: nasov, navershnik, shushun, sukman, shushpan. A thick, multi-piece headdress was mandatory for women. The girls wore different types of headbands. The suit was made from homemade materials.

The complex with a sundress or Northern Russian, which existed in the Russian North, in the Volga region, the Urals, Siberia, in some regions (Smolensk, Kursk, Voronezh, Kharkov provinces) consisted of a shirt and a long sundress, on top of which they put on a soul warmer - a short chest garment with straps. In the cold season, dress it at the waist with a collar and sleeves. With such a costume, girls wore a bandage or a crown, and married women wore a kokoshnik.

A suit of a shirt and a striped, less often checkered, andarak skirt (cloth , Sukminki) was not typical for Russians in general. It became widespread locally in certain villages of the Vologda, Kursk, Oryol, Ryazan, and Smolensk provinces.

A women's costume typical of the Cossacks of the Don basin and the North Caucasus, with a swinging dress - a kubelka, influenced by the local population. It was worn over a shirt, often with a knitted cap and pants; in the 19th century it was replaced by a skirt with a jacket.

In folk costume, the division into everyday, work, festive, and ritual was clearly observed. Festive clothing was always newer, more often made from expensive fabric, composed of a large number of items, and richly decorated. Festive clothing was also divided: one was worn on Sundays, the other on major annual holidays. It is also accompanied by ritual costumes: the betrothed girl, wedding, funeral (sometimes also wedding). It is interesting that the harvest shirt, the work shirt, was raised by the ritual to the rank of a festive one and was decorated especially magnificently. An everyday suit for work around the house and in the field was made from especially durable fabrics and was decorated more modestly. Clothing has always emphasized family and age differences. In the southern regions of the country, the only clothing for a girl under 14-15 years old was a shirt, girls wore a canvas “hem” skirt, and in the costume of a young woman, the brighter colors of the older ones predominated - darker ones. The headdresses of girls and women differed, and those of old women were also known. Widows wore white clothes. The children's costume was almost identical to the adult one, but consisted of fewer items. The wardrobe of a wealthy peasant woman included brocade sundresses, fur-trimmed soul warmers, and headdresses decorated with pearls. The costume of the Ural Cossack women was rich. In poor families, homespun predominated; textiles, small freshwater pearls, glass beads, beads, bird down and dyed feathers were used as decoration.

Common features in folk clothing:

1. Solid, straight, swinging clothes reveal the desire to create a massive, slightly dissected form, a solid and simple silhouette.

2. The massiveness increases from bottom to bottom, this is emphasized by the shoes - woven bast shoes with thick onuches, large gathered boots and heavy cat-shoes, which were worn over seven or eight pairs of thick woolen stockings.

3. The waist is not emphasized, hidden behind the bibs. Thus, body shapes have not been identified.

4. Folk costume is very complex. This complexity is combined with patterned weaving, multi-stitch embroidery, sewing and knitting with various materials, and appliqué.

The preferred colors are white and red, but the clothes of wealthy northerners and Volzhan women were made from purchased expensive fabrics such as damask and semi-brocade.

The costume of the Russians of Siberia is distinguished by its unusual brightness and unexpected color characteristics. Outerwear is usually black, brown, dark yellow, gray, but often blue-dyed and little decorated. A man's suit, with the exception of outerwear, follows the proportions and divisions of the human body.

Since ancient times, the basis of women's and girls' costumes has been the shirt - the oldest common Slavic element. Throughout Russia, girls and women wore a long white shirt, sewn from straight panels of linen or hemp fabric. Shirts were one-piece or composite. The whole ones were sewn from four longitudinal panels of canvas (worn by girls).

Types of Russian women's shirts.

1. Shirts with stripes (straight or oblique) - shoulder inserts that expand their upper part and collar. They were sewn either on the warp or on the weft. Poliki were cut out separately or together with sleeves.

2. Tunic-shaped shirts, shirts with a collar and a shirt with a yoke. The shape of the sleeves is straight or tapering towards the wrist, puffy at the shoulders or at the wrist, loose or gathered with or without gussets, gathered under a narrow trim or on a wide cuff decorated with lace. In wedding and festive clothing from the 17th to the end of the 19th century, there were shirts - long sleeves, with sleeves up to two meters long, with wedges, without gathering. When worn, such a sleeve was gathered in horizontal folds, or had special slots-windows for threading the arms through. Similar shirts were made from linen, while more expensive ones were made from silk fabrics and brocade.

Each province had its own decoration techniques, locations and methods of implementing patterns, and a specific color scheme. In ancient shirts, patterned weaving and embroidery with linen, silk, wool, and later cotton threads predominated.

The main locations of patterns are collars, mantles, sleeves, and hem. On the collar there is a narrow strip of weaving or embroidery, later an appliqué of bright stripes of fabric. In some shirts, the entire chest area was embroidered with dense patterns. More often, the central motif of shirt decoration was linings made of calico, printed chintz, satin, or inserts of patterned fabric. They were additionally distinguished at the seams by black, red or polychrome embroidery, casting, counted satin stitch, half-cross stitch, lace sew-on braid, sewn sequins and various buttons. Sometimes the patterns were along the seams, the bottom was clearly emphasized, and they were completely ornamented. Particular attention was paid to the hem of stubble and mowing shirts, along the bottom of which there were multi-colored patterns painted with a wide stripe, made with multi-colored chain stitch, light painting, counted satin stitch, fabric patch or appliqué. There was abundant decor in South Russian costume. Floral and geometric patterns, palmettes, volutes, rosettes, lace flowers, numerous rhombic and cross-shaped zigzags, meanders were used. Intensely red, dense, carpet-like embroidery and woven weaving are most characteristic of the shirts of the Kursk and Tula provinces. A bright decorative effect was achieved by the contrast of the white background of the fabric with the richly colored mantles and sleeves. In others, the entire sleeve area was covered with a geometric pattern of braided fabric. Colored stripes "punctures" were often used. The combination of stripes of various colors, proportions and materials in one item, the use of sparkles, bugles, buttons, beads, etc. enhances the play of color and tonal relationships.

Shirts from the villages of the Voronezh province, decorated with embroidery, black silk or woolen threads using the set technique. The graphic nature of the seam and the narrow lobar stripes of the ornament give rise to a strict sophistication of the style and constitute their unique beauty. The women's shirts of the Odnodvorets are distinguished by the peculiarity of their cut and decor. The skirts and the upper part of the sleeve were decorated with stripes of weaving fabric and embroidery. On top of the wrist they put the so-called “bryzhi” - wide cuffs made of silk ribbons. The hem was decorated with a strip of mortgage or braided fabric. The upright collar, called the “trump card,” added solemn elegance. The edge was trimmed with factory lace and braid. On holidays they put on another one.

Shirts of residents of the northern and central provinces of Russia. The embroidery was done with cotton, silk and gold spun threads. Numerous shades of red were predominant, sometimes interspersed with blue and black, with metallic sparkles; double-sided sewing predominated. On wedding wedding shirts, the width of the embroidered pattern on the hem sometimes reached 30 centimeters or more.

Along with geometric motifs, peahens, horses, leopards, and the tree of life with forthcoming figures were used.

In some cases, decorations of different techniques coexisted on one object. This can be seen especially clearly on the shirts of betrothed girls in the Vologda, Arkhangelsk and Tver provinces, where there are solar signs: circles, crosses, complicated rhombuses, which carried a semantic load in the beliefs of the Slavs. Colors: white, light red, often using metal threads and gold-woven materials. Restrained color sound, but it is possible to combine contrasting dark purple with gold.

The ornamentation of girls' shirts in Russia is more modest and takes up less space. Children's and old women's shirts were decorated even more simply. Old women often wore undecorated canvas shirts, tied with garus thread.

Poneva: a mandatory accessory for a married woman’s costume. It consisted of 3 panels of homespun, often checkered woolen fabric. Based on their cut, ponevs are divided into unstitched “swing” ponevs, which are most typical for the southwestern regions of Russia, and blind ponevas with stitching. Stitching is a fourth panel inserted between three panels, made from a different texture, usually factory fabric. In addition to the cut, they differed in the methods of ornamentation and the manner of wearing. They were worn in a bag, tucking one or two front flaps into the belt and forming a special hall at the back, which required additional ornamentation. The style of decoration is very diverse. Geometric patterns are typical for this type, the coloring is restrained and strict, but there were also bright ponevs, including Orlov ones entirely decorated with appliqué. The version of poneva with stitching has become widespread in Kursk, Voronezh, Smolensk and other provinces. They were covered with rich polychrome embroidery, silk or wool threads, sequins, and stripes. The abundance and unusualness of decorations in Voronezh and Ryazan ponevs in red-orange and brown-yellow tones.

On the festive occasions of young women (before the birth of a child), in addition to the usual decorations, there were additional decorations. Depending on their income, they were decorated with purchased items: wide metal lace, stripes of braid, fringe made of corded threads, beads, and sparkles. Sometimes numerous large rosettes made of bright ribbons with beads or bells in the center, and tassels made of silk threads were sewn onto the back panels of young women.

Sarafan is a term of eastern origin, meaning “dressed from head to toe.” There were four types:

1. A blind oblique sundress, which was common in the north - Novgorod, Olonets, Pskov regions. It was sewn from a sheet of fabric folded over the shoulders, and slightly beveled or longitudinal wedges were inserted on the sides. Feryaz - a blind sundress made of red cloth.

2. The oblique swing sundress is common in the European part, in the regions of the Urals. It was called swing because its front consisted of two, rather than one, panels of fabric, connected by fasteners on copper, tin or silver buttons or sewn and having a purely decorative fastener. The sides are expanded with additional wedges, giving the silhouette a trapezoidal shape. Wedding and festive clothes were made from brocade and damask.

3. Later in appearance is a round or straight sundress with straps. Later, he replaced the heavy oblique sundress made of brocade, because it was easier to manufacture. For everyday use, it was sewn from motley fabric and chintz. Festive made from bright silk fabrics. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, rich families most often used semi-brocade for wedding sundresses. Blue, green, dark blue and dark cherry tones predominated. Individual flowers or bouquets of them, woven with gold and silver thread, were scattered across the field of silk. The front line was decorated with gold and silver lace, as well as expensive, filigree buttons. In the southern regions they preferred rosin, satin, white and black cloth, and Chinese fabric. The choice of fabric depended on the wealth of the family. Particularly interesting are the black woolen sundresses from the Kursk province with rich, dense embroidery in red, green, and yellow woolen threads.

In addition to sundresses and sundresses, the national costume also includes a skirt - woolen homespun one-yard skirts are interesting. Color: green, red, burgundy, blue tones. At weddings, polychrome embroidery with woolen threads was done over multi-colored stripes. Subjects: human figures, eight-petalled and vortex rosettes, solar symbols, garlands. Decorated with pleated appliqué and lace. In “sad” skirts, the red color disappeared altogether and was replaced by burgundy.

Apron

1. A tunic-like apron worn over the head with sleeves or narrow armholes - usually included in a complex with a poneva (curtain, cufflink). In the costume of girls and adult girls, it was the only addition to the shirt.

2. Wearing with a sundress:

a) an apron with ties above the work

b) a cufflink with a breast or breastplate - tied at the waist and complemented by a braid around the neck.

Since the end of the 19th century, an apron fastened at the waist has been widely used. It was worn with skirts and sundresses. In addition to protecting against contamination, aprons served a decorative purpose, covering the undecorated parts of the costume. They contributed to the creation of a coherent composition of the ensemble. The richness and density of the decor increased from the top to the hem. On South Russian aprons there are designs of plant and zoomorphic images. In addition to ponevas and sundresses, a skirt is found in some areas, initially as a local phenomenon, and in the 20th century as the predominant version of waist-length clothing. Of great interest are woolen striped homespun one-yard skirts (Ryazan, Tambov provinces). Despite the same cut, they differed sharply, even in neighboring villages, in color, proportions and combination of stripes. Green, red, and blue tones are common in color. The material for the skirts was polished. On wedding dresses, polychrome embroidery with woolen threads was done over bright multi-colored stripes. Her favorite subjects were human figures, eight-petalled and vortex rosettes, solar symbols, and garlands. In addition, the skirts were decorated with velvet appliqué and lace.

Apron. Women's peasant costume everywhere included an apron, which, according to its design, was divided into several types.

One of them, a tunic-like apron with sleeves or narrow armholes worn over the head, was usually part of a complex with a poneva and was used mainly in the central and southern Russian provinces under the name “curtain”, “zapon”. In girls' and girls' costumes, it was the only addition to the shirt. There are isolated cases of its existence in the Novgorod and Semipalatinsk provinces. An apron with a yoke is considered a later option.

Other types of aprons were usually worn with the sundress. One of them was fastened with ties above the chest, the other - a cufflink with a breast or breast - was tied at the waist and with an additional ribbon at the neck. Such aprons were widespread mainly in the Central Russian region, the Volga region, the Urals, and Siberia. Since the end of the 19th century. An apron fastened at the waist was widely used. It was worn with skirts and later types with sundresses.

Aprons carried a large decorative load: they covered the undecorated part of the costume and contributed to the creation of a coherent color composition of the ensemble. The aprons of the Southern regions, repeating in general terms the decoration of the shirts, were more intensely ornamented than the Northern ones. The richness and density of the decor grew rhythmically from the top to the hem. The pattern was formed from ornamental compositions that varied in style, execution technique and material. These are harmoniously connected, sometimes repeating stripes of weaving, weaving patterns, bright silk ribbons, fabric applique, lace. In some cases, sequins, braid, silk and metal fringe are used.

On southern Russian aprons there are designs of plant and zoomorphic images. In the decoration of aprons in the northern regions, especially the Vologda and Arkhangelsk provinces, preference was given to embroidery with a double-sided seam, painting, and typesetting. There were both geometric patterns and complex compositions: horses with riders, lions, leopards. The uniqueness of color combinations and unusual decorative means attract aprons from the villages of the Moscow province. Woven entirely with narrow stripes of red, blue, yellow, orange-brown tones, they, like a shell, completely covered the front of the entire suit. Their decor was certainly consistent in tone and technique with the decoration of the sleeves of the shirts.

Chest clothing. An important and sometimes obligatory component of an elegant women's costume was the shoulder (chest) clothing, which was worn mainly in the autumn-spring period, over a shirt, poneva and apron.

In the southern provinces, married women used tunic-like bibs, reminiscent of a shirt, but shorter, for holidays. Uniform in cut, they differed in material, collar cut, presence or absence of sleeves, wedges, and length. Depending on the number and color of the decorations, they had different names in different provinces: shushpan, shushun, nasov, sukman, korotay, zheltik, navershnik, skirt, bastrog.

Depending on the time of year and place of existence, they were sewn from canvas, thin cloth or wool, and sometimes richly ornamented. The front part of the bibs was decorated with lace stitching, appliqué, colored fabric, red, yellow, blue, the cut of the collar and shoulder straps were decorated with abundant, plain or polychrome embroidery and stripes of embedded or braided fabric.

In addition to the tunic-shaped ones, in the south of Russia there are also swing-type ones. Unlike the first ones, which were often belted, they were worn without a belt. In the Tula province, their hem was decorated with silk or wool fringe with sequins and beads, and in the Tambov province, red or calico wedges were inserted into the side seams. Unlike the peasant costume, the single-yard costume of the south of Russia used a dark, figure-hugging corset that gave it a slender look. It was decorated with colored tambour embroidery.

The type of shoulder clothing is also known - with straps. This is the “bastrog” that was used in the Ryazan and Tambov provinces. It has a trapezoidal shape and reaches to the waist, reminiscent of northern soul warmers. Bastrogs were covered with appliqués made of calico, polychrome embroidery with wool, and sequins.

In the northern regions, soul warmers, which were also called korotyon, pero, epanechka, short fur coat, were made of brocade, velvet, and scarlet damask. Especially elegant were the soul warmers made of crimson velvet, densely embroidered with braid or gold thread. They were typical for residents of the rich, villages, as well as townspeople - burghers, merchants. Swing shugai (like jackets) with sleeves were quilted with cotton wool, a large turn-down collar and sleeves were trimmed with metal fringe or inexpensive fur. Jackets called “fur coats” were made from expensive silks and furs.

The shoulder garment formed the silhouette of the suit.

Headdresses. One of the most important components of the costume was the headdress, which completed the entire (costume) ensemble. The entire territory of Russia is characterized by two sharply different categories of hats. Girls' dresses, which left their hair and the crown of their head open, had the shape of a wreath - a hoop or a headband.

Women's headdresses were varied, but they all completely hid their hair, which, according to popular beliefs, had witchcraft powers and could bring misfortune. The headdress emphasized not only the change in a woman’s marital status, but also her social and property status.

Girls' hats were quite simple in their shape and method of manufacture. The headbands were rectangular in shape and secured to the head with ribbons or ribbons. Their earliest type was head panels made from a strip of canvas with ends decorated with embroidery using double-sided satin stitch, half-cross stitch, sequins and metal thread. In the southern regions, preference was given to geometric motifs in ornamentation, while in the northern regions, ornithomorphic plant motifs were preferred.

The most common were girls' dresses in the form of a crown or hoop. Depending on the place of existence, the material for their manufacture varied. In the southern regions of Russia, fabrics, braids, ribbons, beads, buttons, sequins, and feathers were widely used. The color scheme of these headbands, headbands, and wreaths is bright and rich. Dyed bird feathers, including peacock feathers, were used not only in the headdress itself, but also as its additional parts.

Headbands, ribbons, laces made of brocade and braid, damask fabric and strips of calico with rich embroidery with gold thread, typical of the northern provinces, were made wide, on a thick base. Sometimes they were decorated with a lower part or duckweed made of river pearls, chopped mother-of-pearl, and beads that descended to the forehead.

Volumetric openwork “crowns with cities”, crowns, bangs, also decorated with pearls, mother-of-pearl, inserts of stones and glass, and colored foil, became widespread.

The wedding crown was a dense rim with a braid, under which protruded an openwork wreath, decorated with pearls, mother-of-pearl, beads, with inserts of foil, glass, and sometimes sewn on brooches.

A variant of the all-Russian girl's headdress was a factory-made scarf folded into a rope and tied with the ends back. It was complemented by beaded pendants.

The basis of all varieties of southern Russian headdresses of the “magpie” type was a hard forehead piece sewn from quilted canvas, compacted with hemp or birch bark, and worn directly on the hair. Depending on its shape, flat or imitating horns extending back, it was called a kichka or a horned kichka. It was this detail of the headdress that gave its entire structure one form or another, which was completed with the help of the upper part, a kind of cover made of calico, calico or velvet - a magpie; the back of the head was covered by a rectangular strip of fabric - the back of the head. Sometimes this dress included up to twelve parts, and its weight reached up to five kilograms.

There were various variations of this headdress: horned, hoof-shaped, spade-shaped, bowler-shaped. So in the Ryazan province, along with almost flat kitties with barely outlined horns on their headdresses, there are also headdresses with horns up to thirty cm high. In the Tula province, they were completely modified through an additional complex design of several vertically fixed layers of gathered ribbons, giving the impression of a lush bright fans. Headdresses were especially different from each other in the methods and themes of decoration and color scheme. In the Oryol, Tula, Kursk, and Voronezh provinces, preference was given to light red, green, and yellow colors, while in the southeast - in the Ryazan and Tambov provinces, dark red and black. On the headband, embroidery with painting, set and satin stitch using multi-colored silk, wool, cotton thread with the addition of sparkles and beads was widely used. She gave comprehensive information about age. The headdresses of young women before the birth of a child were most brightly decorated. Gradually the pattern became drier and more restrained; old women wore magpies with white or sparse black embroidery.

Made in the same way as magpies from calico and velvet, the back of the head was covered over the entire surface with dense embroidery, often complemented by gold embroidery. The front part of the magpie was decorated with a strip of shiny braid, “tufts” of drake feathers. In the Tula province, tufts of brightly colored poultry feathers tucked into the side of a headdress, and goose down “gun” balls attached to the ear or ear became widespread. Sometimes the ears were covered with ear pads or wings with braid, braid, beads, and sparkles.

Women's headdresses in the northern provinces of Russia, which had the general name "kokoshnik", differed significantly in their appearance from those in the south. Unlike magpies, they were made to order by professional craftswomen from factory fabrics. The forms of northern headwear, despite the unifying origin and name, were very diverse even in nearby areas. Almost the entire surface of the helmet-shaped “heads” from the Tver province was covered with braid, dense embroidery with gold thread and gimp; the headband ended with a pearl or beaded bottom—“duckweed.” The duckweed headdress from the neighboring district was miniature, its richly ornamented crown covered only a tuft of hair at the back of the head, and the very wide duckweed and the back of the head covered the rest of the head.

The Vladimir, Nizhny Novgorod, Yaroslavl, Kostroma provinces from the 18th century are characterized by flat massive kokoshniks with a vertical or horizontal blade above the forehead. They come in elongated triangular or rounded shapes; sometimes the span of the headband reached 60 centimeters. The front side of such kokoshniks was embroidered with pearls using colored foil and glass inserts, and the back side was made, as a rule, of cherry velvet and decorated with gold thread embroidery, floral and ornithomorphic ornaments. The kokoshnik had a wide bottom that covered almost the entire forehead. In most provinces, expensive kokoshniks and samshurs were worn with scarves. On special occasions, scarves with dense floral patterns embroidered with gold and silver threads were used. The drawing took up half of the scarf. When putting it on, its ends were folded under the chin.

The centers for the production of gold-embroidered scarves were Kargopolye and certain districts of the Nizhny Novgorod and Tver provinces.

By the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries, kokoshniks and samshurs were replaced by easier-to-make povoiniki and collections, sewn from factory fabrics.

Removable decorations. They played a big role in women's costume. These are: earrings, bibs, gaitans, back and waist pendants. In all regions of Russia they had their own colors and were made from different materials.

The most popular decoration were earrings. A major center for their production was the village of Rybnoye, Kazan province, and the village of Krasnoye on the Volga.

Very interesting are homemade earrings from the southern provinces made from goose down, feathers, beads, multi-colored woolen threads, and beads.

In the north, the most popular were earrings made of low pearls, “butterflies”, flat, rosette-shaped, pear-shaped, etc.

Neck and chest “tongues”, “breasts”, necklaces, necklaces, monistas, gaitans, chains.

“Tongues” and “breasts” were made of cotton fabric, decorated with appliqué, and the most expensive ones were made of silk, embroidered with gold thread and beating, and decorated with inserts of multi-colored glass and foil.

The beaded monista and gaitana were in harmony with the multicoloredness of the southern Russian costume. They were wide polychrome stripes about 1.5 meters long with a clear pattern of nets, rhombuses, and rosettes. Depending on the place where the gaitans were made, their colors varied. They were complemented by copper crosses and glazed icons suspended from them.

In terms of the manner of wearing, the Monists and Gaitans are similar to “harnesses” made of small multi-colored beads; they also wore large ambers, or glass beads, covering the neck in several rows.

The northern regions are characterized by either necklaces such as a collar or collar, tightly fitting the neck and consisting of wide nets made of mother-of-pearl, pearls and white beads, or strips of canvas embroidered with the same materials, complemented by inserts of colored glass and ribbons. Amber beads and all kinds of metal chains, both voluminous, ringed, and flat with links made of smooth ribbed or filigree wire, were very popular.

For several centuries, buttons have been an attribute of Russian clothing. They were intended not only for fastening it, but also for decoration. Buttons were made from various metals and decorated in a wide variety of ways. Their ornamentation used engraving, niello, filigree, granulation, glass and stone inserts, and setting with small pearls and mother-of-pearl. When their production ceased by the nineteenth century, buttons continued to be used as pendants or cufflinks.

In southern Russian clothing, much attention was paid to decorating the back. Interesting are the long beaded threads that were a continuation of the gaitans - “mushrooms” and “notes” made of garus or silk cord, black braid with beads, lush multi-colored tassels and rosettes embroidered with gold thread, sequins, and beads.

In the Ryazan province, back decorations “wings” consisted of two strips of fabric with braiding, colored stripes, beads, and buttons.

In the Kursk province - “shoulders” made of long silk ribbons.

Various braids woven into braids were very popular among girls, made in the north from braids, silk stripes embroidered with gold thread, in the south and west - lowered beaded blades, multi-colored pendants and tassels.

A mandatory element of the Russian national costume, both women's and men's, was the belt. Shirts, sundresses, outerwear were belted around them, and the waistband was attached.

Depending on the purpose, the belt was tied under the chest or under the stomach. If the sundress was made of expensive fabrics (damask, brocade, velvet), the belt was sometimes tied to the shirt underneath. Since ancient times, it was considered a talisman for the owner. People associated various superstitions with the belt.

Girls wore various pockets on their belts, “lakoniks” - richly decorated with embroidery and appliqué. Women - small pockets-wallets for money and small items. Men hung combs, pouches, and devices for making fire on their belts.

The belts were braided and woven. Among the Cossacks, belts made of velvet, braid and metal became widespread; a mandatory addition to them was a figured buckle. The length and width of the belts vary depending on their purpose and place of use. Some belts were decorated with woven inscriptions.

Men's costume. It was more of the same type throughout Russia and was not as colorful as women's.

Ethnic and local differences were weaker than social and age differences.

The composition of a man's suit everywhere included a shirt, ports (pants), a belt, shoes and a headdress.

Everyday clothes were sewn from homespun checkered or striped motley or printed fabric and were almost not decorated.

The most ancient part of the costume, which has undergone little change, was a short, knee-length, tunic-like shirt with a straight, often oblique, cut at the collar and a gusset. A piece of “backing” fabric was sewn on the inside of the back and chest. Just like women's, men's shirts were necessarily belted with a homespun or leather narrow belt, often ending in tassels.

Festive and wedding shirts were decorated with weaving or embroidery, predominantly in red, along the collar, slit on the chest, edge of the sleeves and hem. The patterns used were the same as for women's shirts. The most elegant were the wedding and holiday shirts of young men. The decorations on them were sometimes located on the back and were multi-colored, numerous and varied in execution technique.

The shirts of grooms from the Semipalatinsk province were especially colorful. Their back and chest are richly colored with a geometric pattern. The predominant colors in embroidery are blue and red. The pattern is arranged asymmetrically, in the form of a wide stripe; braid, lace, and applique are used in the decor.

The shirts of the southern provinces were decorated much more intensively than the northern ones. Embroidery on Voronezh shirts was done with black thread.

Men's trousers (pants) were made from striped fabric or printed fabric, from white homespun, and in cold weather - from homemade cloth. The ports were uniform in appearance throughout Russia; the differences concerned only some details of cut. As a rule, they were not decorated.

The headdresses of Russian peasants were varied, but the main ones were two types of felted hats made of white, gray or brown wool - with a crown and small brims, and caps - felt boots without brims. Wedding hats were richly decorated. Winter hats in the northeast were borrowed from the indigenous peoples and gradually replaced by the traditional and now ushanka hat.