How to finish a button hole. How to make hinged buttonholes

In order to make an ideal buttonhole, you need to make the cut for it correctly, taking into account the size of the button and the density of the material. When processing loops on a machine, the edges of the loops are strengthened with special long stitches. These stitches should be the same length on all sides and spaced evenly. You need to leave enough space between the rows of stitches so that you don’t accidentally cut the walls when cutting. The cut ends exactly at the ends of the loop. If the loop location needs to be reinforced with a spacer, it should match the density of the fabric and not be visible from the front side.

Horizontal and vertical hinges

The most practical ones are - horizontal hinges. Such a loop practically does not deform when the fabric is tensioned, and buttons do not pop out of it. They are placed exactly perpendicular to the edge of the product.
Vertical loops are mainly made on the reinforced edges of products, for example, on the panels of shirts or blouses. And as the name implies, they are placed parallel to the edge of the product. Since such loops are subject to deformation, they are placed closer to each other (their number is increased) and small buttons are used for them.

Types of slotted loops machined

The loop is processed using one special foot in one pass.

To give the loop relief, a thin cord is placed under the continuous zigzag stitch.

Processed with two edges. They are adjusted along the front side of the loop, then the free ends of the edging are pulled through the cut to the wrong side.

A thin cord is inserted into the edges to process the loop.

It is processed with strips of fabric, stitched on the front side and turned to the wrong side.

On leather or suede it is finished with a straight stitch around the cut.

It is an unstitched section of the seam. Sometimes it is processed with a straight stitch at the top.

How to calculate the length of a buttonhole

The length of a loop for a flat button is determined by its diameter and the thickness of the button multiplied by 2 is added to it. If you use decorative or irregularly shaped buttons, then in this case it is very difficult to determine the length of the loop. It is more reliable to cut test loops on scraps of fabric.

Apply a ruler to the middle of the button and measure the diameter, then its thickness. Add up the length of the button and the two thicknesses. If you are making a buttonhole on a thick fabric, you will need to add a few more millimeters to the result.

Wrap a strip of paper around the button and connect the ends. The length of the loop will be equal to half the length of the unfolded strip or the length of the strip folded in half.

Take a scrap piece of fabric and baste it and cut a test stitch. Try threading the button through the loop. Make changes if necessary.

How to calculate the location of buttonholes on a product

The line along which the buttons will be sewn and the loops made should be located exactly in the middle of the back or front. Otherwise, the product will not fit well. To accurately calculate the distance between buttonholes, first mark the top and bottom buttonholes. Measure the distance between these loops and divide by the planned number of loops, reduced by one. This will be the distance between the loops.

The button is positioned so that the edge of the loop protrudes 3 mm beyond the line of the middle front, and it moves slightly towards the edge of the product. When buttoned, the buttons will be on the center line.

Vertical loops are placed along the middle line of the front. Buttons are sewn 3 mm from the top of the loop.

In subsequent articles we will describe in more detail the technologies for processing split loops with a machine.

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Welt loops (come in handy from time to time when I sew clothes for dolls) - large headache, because they need to be small (on doll clothes) and very strong (because children are not always neat). I usually did it by car, but then I found another wonderful material from Frosya Burlakova- on how to make slotted loops by hand.

Hand-cut loops are a delicate matter, almost jewelry work... Yes, no, nothing particularly complicated, but everything must be very thoughtful, consistently and accurately executed, a missed nuance will definitely affect the result. I’ll be honest: no one taught me this. I slowly learned it myself :). You too will learn. Be brave, they are very beautiful!

There are dress loops here, so as not to clutter up the essence, maybe. for coats you also need a thick thread.

That's how much it takes to fasten one button - in the photo on the right.

We act consistently. All work is done on the face. Fabric - cotton cambric.

The distance between the loops is from the pattern or by calculation.

The width of the loop is best marked using a paper strip.

Then it will turn out the same for all loops. A strip with a width of button diameter + 2 mm per button thickness.

I do it with a pencil, and in reality with a disappearing felt-tip pen.

2. Pulling out the thread.

The loop must be cut exactly along the thread. IMHO, it is very unpleasant for my eyes when a loop moves even one thread along the inner or outer edge from the weft or warp. This often happens on machine loops.

If you have an absolutely precise eye and tool, then you can cut between two threads. This is also possible if the fabric threads are thick or sparse. If not, then I cut and pull out 1 thread along the width of the loop. This is the site of the future cut.

3. Bonding layers.

At a minimum, there are 2 layers of fabric in the loop, and there may also be a spacer. If it is not there, then it is better to add it locally in the form of a rectangular piece about 3 by 1 cm.

The layers of fabric for the loop need to be fastened together for work. The point is that they should not move during operation.

The classic method of fastening is small oblique stitches along the perimeter of the loop, 5 mm away from the future cut. Draw a rectangle like this around with stitches. I'm not showing this.

A method of fastening using thin double-sided adhesive is also suitable. So I glued a narrow strip of double-sided adhesive to the location of the future loop. The top and bottom are fastened.

4. Piercing the peephole.

I don't have a punch or special scissors.

For a small eye of dress loops, an awl or knitting needle is quite suitable.

First, I mark the location of the eye with a needle somewhere 1-1.5 mm from the edge of the loop.

Then I widen the hole by rotating the awl in it. Eye diameter - mm 2.

In this case, the threads only become denser around the eye hole.

5. Stitch around the loop.

It is necessary that the edge of the loop does not stretch (for horizontal loops it is weft). I take a thin silk thread. It may not be very thin, depending on your taste and the fabric. Maybe not very silky. But it’s long. It’s better to make the entire loop from start to finish with one thread; there’s no need for extra fastenings.

1 thread of my fabric has been pulled out.

I'm retreating one more thread.

And between the retreated and the next thread I draw a forward needle around the perimeter with small stitches. You can put several on the needle. You need to start from the far side of the loop where the tack will be.

Then I circle it a second time. Total - a continuous stroke. I tighten the thread quite tightly, not loosely. You don't have to worry about the evenness of the stitching by varnishing it with a stitch.

If you wish, you can make the outline around the future eye rounded, but, in general, this is not important.

The loop, of course, needs to be cut.

We put the scissors into the peephole and carefully cut along the pulled out thread.

7. Stitching the straight side.

You should also start it from the far side of the loop, where the outline ends. It goes from left to right, so we sew the bottom side first (for women's clothing). It is more convenient to stitch from top to bottom, holding the loop vertically.

For overcasting you need SEAM No. 6 - DOUBLE LOOP. I talked about him in the dark about air loops. The beauty of the result is in the countability. We make each subsequent puncture through the same number of threads. I did it through 2 threads - for this fabric it is approximately 0.7 mm. The fabric density is 25 threads per 1 cm in the warp and 14 threads per 1 cm in the weft.

The stitch laid earlier should not be located along the edge of the cut, but close to the punctures of the stitching - it’s more beautiful. (Therefore, if a wider stitch is planned, then the stitch can be laid 1 thread of fabric further from the cut).

I like the stitching that is not wide and not continuous. This makes the transition from fabric to loop look more natural.

Here I make punctures, leaving 2 threads of weft and 1 thread of laid stitching under the stitching.

Very important.

When tightening the loop, I pull the thread slightly back.

It is then that the edge of the loop turns out taut and clear. If you pull straight up or slightly forward, the edge relaxes. The pull is quite strong.

8. Stitching the eyelet.

We sew the eyelet in a circle, maintaining approximately the same distance between the punctures.

Along the eye itself, the thread will thicken and form a dense scar.

9. Closing the loop.

The second side of the loop is sewn like the first, and now I have come to the beginning.

This is where the fastening is done.

But first I close the loop, those. I move with a loop stitch to the first side.

Three ways. I'll say right away that I like the third one. That's why the first one doesn't have pictures.

1) Lay several loop stitches, grabbing the fabric, perpendicular to two sides.

2) Sew a cross stitch forward on the needle several times in place (this can be seen in the first picture, you can leave it like that).

3) Overcast the tiny arc obtained in step 2) with a double loop. Make a tiny transverse air loop like this.

All done with sewing! If it’s new, then not even a year has passed :). If the first stitch took you less than an hour, then you are an exceptionally capable student :). But even with a lot of experience, this is not a quick task. 15 minutes is very good, 10 minutes is great.

Cover the cut with oblique stitches and iron it. It’s you, dear girls:).... If you know how to do it neatly, you can do it without basting - it’s more relevant on thick fabrics... Here she is, this beauty!

No, really, it’s beautiful, tell me? Even very much, my dears!... It’s even better in nature, I’m telling the truth.

Sewing buttonholes for clothes can be made by hand, but buttonholes can be made quickly and accurately only on a sewing machine that comes with a special foot.
A buttonhole on a sewing machine can be sewn in automatic, semi-automatic and manual mode.
Learn more about the features of sewing a buttonhole on a sewing machine. What is the difference between automatic loop execution and semi-automatic mode. Which buttonhole mode is best to buy a sewing machine, etc.

1. Methods for making a buttonhole on a machine

The method of making a buttonhole on a machine depends on the class of the sewing machine and its technical capabilities. But the type of buttonhole made by sewers household machines, almost everyone has the same thing - a flat straight loop based on a zigzag stitch. And only electronic computerized machines, as well as household embroidery machines, have the ability to make buttonholes for clothes with an eyelet, several types and any sizes.

In the sewing industry, special machines are used to sew buttonholes; they are called buttonhole machines. For example, a class 25 buttonhole machine is used only for making straight buttonholes, with a hole cut into the fabric. But we are interested in how to make buttonholes on a household sewing machine, the sequence of sewing buttonholes in semi-automatic and manual mode, since in automatic mode the buttonhole is made without the participation of a seamstress.

Depending on the class of the sewing machine, the process of making a buttonhole can be automatic (automatic buttonhole), semi-automatic or manual. In all cases, a special buttonhole foot is used, except for manual mode. In manual mode, a foot is used to perform a zigzag stitch (Chaika sewing machine, etc.)

Many modern household sewing machines perform buttonholes automatically. To do this, just install a special foot, approximately the same as in the top photo. In order not to control the length of the loop, you need to install a button in the presser foot and do not forget to pull down the vertical lever for switching the speed of the machine down all the way.

Presser feet designed for sewing buttonholes in automatic mode allow you to avoid marking the size of the buttonhole on the fabric; the button fixed in the foot serves as a guide for the size of the buttonhole. The vertical lever, during the process of sewing a buttonhole, automatically switches the movement of the machine in the opposite direction, so do not forget to extend it. It is located on the top of the front cover and is used only for the hinge operation. It is better not to push it out unless necessary.
If you have a manual for your sewing machine, look at the section on how to make buttonholes, there should be detailed and clear instructions.

It is not necessary to install a button in the foot that you will sew on this garment. It can be oval or square shape, have a leg and even if you insert it into the paw, it will not stay in it and will jump out. You just need to select a flat button with approximately the same diameter as the buttonhole and install it in the foot.

Actually, the process of making an automatic sewing loop is very simple. You place the fabric under the presser foot, press the pedal of the machine, and it automatically moves in both directions, while performing all the necessary fastenings and switching. After finishing the work, the sewing machine will stop itself, ready to begin sewing the next loop. Automatically making a buttonhole with a button pattern installed greatly simplifies the work, but requires some skill, since there are a number of features.
For some models sewing machines The stitch frequency of a zigzag stitch in reverse motion is different from the zigzag stitch frequency in forward motion. Therefore, additional “fine” adjustment of this operation is provided, when the zigzag frequency in the opposite direction is separately adjusted. However, not all models of sewing machines are equipped with this function and therefore the thread density on each side of the loop may differ.

On our website there are instructions for a Brother sewing machine. It contains a description of how to adjust the frequency of the zigzag loop in automatic mode.
Don't forget to also adjust the pressure of the presser foot on the fabric. In many cases, the presser foot pressure should be released, especially if the buttonhole will be sewn on a blouse made of light fabrics such as chiffon. If you do not adjust the pressure of the presser foot, the fabric under the presser foot will “snap”, shrink, and instead of a loop you will get a lump of thread.
Experienced seamstresses “insure” the movement of the fabric by pulling it by hand, but we do not recommend you do this, nor does the manufacturer. If the fabric is pulled by hand, serious damage to the sewing machine may occur. It’s better to make several test samples of buttonholes, adjust thread tension, presser foot pressure, select the optimal buttonhole size, etc. And only after that start “punching” the loops on the finished product.

Semi-automatic buttonhole making almost the same as the process of sewing a buttonhole in automatic mode. The only significant difference is that you must control this process. With this method of performing a loop, you need to turn on each of the 4 consecutive operations separately, manually switching modes. To do this, a knob for switching buttonhole sewing modes is installed on the front panel of the sewing machine.

Let's say you set your sewing machine to perform a buttonhole operation, lower the foot onto the fabric, and begin sewing a buttonhole. The first cycle can be started with any operation, including cross-tackling. In our example, we will first sew a small zigzag stitch forward, along the right side of the loop. Before reaching the line marked in advance with chalk, you need to stop the machine and switch, with the needle raised, to the wide cross-tack mode. Sew a few stitches and switch the handle to sew a buttonhole in the opposite direction, next to the stitch you have already sewn. The last operation is again a wide tack, only on the other side of the loop.

In the semi-automatic buttonhole mode, you have to constantly switch the operating mode of the sewing machine. At first glance, you might think that this is inconvenient. In fact, it’s the other way around, since the whole process is completely under control and you can always stop the machine, fix or straighten the fabric under the foot, increase the distance between lines, etc.

If you are just going to buy a sewing machine, we recommend choosing this option for making a loop. This is exactly the type of sewing loop that is available on the Janome economy class sewing machine. Based on our own experience, we can recommend buying a sewing machine with this method of sewing buttonholes. Despite the fact that we have both industrial buttonhole machines and automatic buttonhole machines, everyone uses a regular economy-class machine, which has exactly this option for sewing buttonholes.

Video on how to sew buttonholes on a sewing machine in semi-automatic mode.

To sew a buttonhole manually, you only need to have the sewing machine perform a zigzag stitch. Making a buttonhole in manual mode is performed by such machine models as the Chaika sewing machine, Podolsk 142, Veritas 8014 sewing machine and some modern economy class machines costing less than 5,000 rubles.

For performing a loop A regular zigzag foot will do. Moreover, such machines do not have another special foot for the buttonhole. Making buttonholes by hand on a sewing machine is not very convenient, but if you have no other choice, you can try.
Be sure to mark the loop with chalk or baste this section of fabric with contrasting threads.

Adjustment of the stitch width and length of the zigzag stitch is done manually. Set the stitch length in the range from 0.3 to 1 mm, select the thread tension on a prototype, but usually from 1 to 5, that is, less than half. Install a zigzag foot on the machine, as already mentioned, with a wide narrow slot. Set the adjustment knob to the following position. To sew the sides of a buttonhole: stitch width - 0.2 cm.

Cross bartack: maximum width - 0.5 cm. When performing cross bartack, do not forget to set the stitch frequency to "0".

Making a buttonhole on a sewing machine requires some experience, and as paradoxical as it may sound, especially when done in automatic mode.
Try making a few "test" buttonholes first, preferably with all the interlinings and linings, repeating the area of ​​the garment you will be making the buttonholes on. You will find that sometimes both sides of the zigzag stitch are so close that it is difficult to cut the fabric between them without damaging the stitch thread.
Sometimes, when moving backwards, the sewing machine “slips” and clumps of thread form. Sometimes you even have to undo the loop completely, which is extremely undesirable.
In thickened areas, the thread may break, loose stitches may appear at the bottom, etc.

Take these “nuances” into account and first set the correct thread tension. You can “tap” the thickened areas in advance with the handles of heavy tailor’s scissors.
Use long chalk lines to mark the loop so you can see where to stop the car. The foot is not made of glass and sometimes you have to stop the machine at random.
Watch to see if both zigzag stitches are too close to each other. With some skill, you can slightly shift the fabric, move the stitch, and “put it back” closer to the bartack.

Begin making a buttonhole by carefully lowering the needle into the fabric at the very beginning of the buttonhole.
Lower the presser foot and sew 4 or 5 stitches of the first wide bartack. Stitch length to "0".
Then lift the needle out of the fabric and set the zigzag width to a smaller width (as desired) and the stitch length to 0.5. Now start working the first side of the loop until it reaches the intended border.
Once you reach the end of the loop, lift the needle out of the fabric, set the zigzag width to maximum and the stitch length to 0.
Sew 4-5 stitches to create a second bar tack. Stop the machine with the needle in the left position.
Raise the presser foot and, without lifting the needle, turn the fabric and change the sewing direction.
Remove the fabric from the machine and make a slit in the loop with a special stitch opener, after inserting pins into the edges of the loop. They will be a reliable stop for the spreader blade, and you will not cut the loop more than necessary.

An embroidery machine has limitless possibilities, including making buttonholes. It can be used to sweep not only ordinary straight lines. sewing loops, but also eye loops. Eye loops of any size, shape and type, including those with reinforcing thread, can be made easily and accurately by this machine.

Modern sewing machines produce many types of stitches, but many of them are never used. And here making a loop in automatic or semi-automatic mode - this is a very popular operation. When buying a sewing machine, choose one that has this operation, even if you don't yet plan to make buttonholes for clothes.

Expensive sewing machines are required to make buttonholes, and this is done automatically. But you don’t have to buy just such a machine to make buttonholes on clothes. Many inexpensive economy-class sewing machines provide for sewing buttonholes in a semi-automatic mode. Please pay attention to this when purchasing a sewing machine. Sometimes, a small additional payment of 300 - 500 rubles will allow you to buy a sewing machine that makes buttonholes in a semi-automatic mode.

The sewing machine that makes buttonholes comes with a special foot. But, even if your machine does not have it, you can buy it separately at any sewing machine store. Pay attention to the fastening of the foot. When purchasing a new extra foot, take with you any foot that came with your sewing machine.

To avoid damaging the loop when cutting it, use pins. The pins should not be too thick as they can sometimes leave puncture marks. This applies to thin and “delicate” fabrics, such as silk. For them, it is advisable to use very thin and sharp pins.

Traditional clasp elegant dresses, including wedding ones, are made on hanging loops, which are sewn very close to each other. This type of fastener can be made different ways. It is placed on the sleeves, front or back panels, on the cut of the skirt, etc. For hanging loops, use purchased braid or soutache. There is another option; you can sew hanging loops from a roll, which is made from the same fabric as the product.

This type involves placing the loops at some distance from each other. The number of loops corresponds to the number of buttons.

Identical loops are sewn very close to each other. Small buttons are used under them.

Double decorative clasp. The fastener is formed in the form of four loops. One of the loops protrudes beyond the shelf and it is on it that the product is fastened. The remaining three loops are sewn to the product.

How to make hinged buttonholes from rolls

Soft, thin fabrics such as crepe de chine, cambric and crepe georgette are best suited for making hinge rolls. The strips for the rulik can be cut out along the grain thread, but the loops from the bias tape are softer and neater. The roll can be hollow or with a cord inserted inside if it is cut on the bias.

The roll is bent into a loop when it is sewn to the fabric. But for slippery fabrics, it is advisable to first form the loops on a paper template. The marking lines on the template allow you to place the loops at the same distance from each other. The loops along with the template are attached to the fabric, and the paper is then torn off.

Template markup

Make a template and mark the loops without space between them. Pin the ends of the loops to the template at a 5mm line and cut. Tape the ends and baste on a machine.

Mark the locations of the loops on the template with equal distances between them. Cut the roll and pin the loops to the paper. Glue the ends with tape and secure with a machine stitch.

1. Place the paper template with loops on the project. Pin it. Run the machine along the seam line from the inside. Remove the ribbon and pins. Tear off the template.
2. Attach the strip to the product with right sides together. Using pins crosswise, pin them together from the wrong side. Now machine stitch along the seam line on the outside.
3. Trim and guide the placket seam allowances, pressing them away from the garment. Sew the seam along the front side. Fold the bar to the wrong side, exposing the loops.

With the help of a modern machine, buttonholes can be made easily, quickly and accurately, no matter where they are - on pillows, blouses or coats. To do this, you need sharp needles, suitable threads and stabilizing material. Sewing buttonholes on a machine is a simple operation that provides fairly reliable results.

Fabric/thread. Loops can be made on any fabric - from chiffon to thin elastic. The main thing is to strengthen this area to protect the fabric from tearing. Threads and fabric must match each other in color and quality. Loops on silk are made with silk threads; if you are working with cotton fabric, thread the machine with cotton threads, etc.

Stabilizing material. With the advent of stabilizing materials, loops can be made even on very thin fabrics, such as chiffon. Spacers are used between the facing and the main fabric. They help keep the fabric balanced when sewing buttonholes and prevent the fabric from wrinkling when connected to a button.

Needle. Make sure your needle is sharp as it will penetrate several layers of fabric.

HOW TO MAKE BUTTON LOOPS?

1. When processing loops located on thin fabrics, it is necessary to place a stabilizing material under the fabric.

2. If your pattern does not indicate the size of the buttonhole, set it as follows: make a loop from a measuring tape around the button that you want to sew on and add 3 mm to this size.

3. The loops should be marked, retreating 2 cm from the fold line of the fabric to the fastener. Then place rectangular strips of stabilizing material in place of the intended loops, on the wrong side of the fabric and sheathing. If it is an adhesive pad, it needs to be ironed with a hot iron and then allowed to cool. The distance between the loops depends on the type of fabric and the location of the loops. It can be horizontal or vertical. For very light fabrics, the distance between the loops should not exceed 6-8 cm. If the loops are made on pillows, this distance can be up to 13 cm.

4. Take your buttonhole foot. Select the stitch type and adjust its width.

5. Start processing from the front cross bar of the loop. Position the fabric under the presser foot so that the front (cross) bar mark of the buttonhole is directly under the center of the presser foot.

6. To secure the seam, turn the fabric counterclockwise and make a few straight stitches before cutting the end of the thread.

7. The loops are cut with a knife to rip the seams. To do this, both ends of the loop are secured with pins so as not to damage the stitches.

If you don't have one, use small, sharp scissors. Cut through the fabric in the middle of the stitched loop. Don't accidentally cut through the stitches.

Advice. When you process loops very thin fabric, use a soluble stabilizer. This will prevent your fabric from wrinkling or even tearing.

Advice. When making buttonholes on sheer fabric, use interfacing and soluble stabilizer only under each button.

Video from Fatima Kaznacheevskaya: How to sew buttonholes on a sewing machine.

HOW TO CORRECTLY SEW ON A BUTTON?

Buttons. There are two types of buttons - with holes and on legs. Buttons with holes are well suited for blouses made of thin fabrics and cotton shirts. Buttons on legs are more suitable for thick fabrics, so they are sewn onto outerwear.

Location.

1. Using a pin, pin together the layers of fabric in the places where you planned to sew buttons.

2. For vertical loops, insert a pin 3 mm from the top, through the bottom layer. For horizontal hinges, insert a pin 3 mm from the slot on the outside.

Sewing.

1. Thread the needle with double thread and make a few backstitches in the place where you are going to sew on the button.

2. Place a match on the button and make several stitches, guiding the needle from one hole to another and covering the top of the match with thread.

3. Remove the match, pull the button away from the fabric, and draw the thread several times around the bunch of threads that formed after removing the match.

4. Return the needle to the wrong side and secure it. Pull the knot you made at the very beginning and cut it off.

Advice. Be sure to practice sewing buttons on a scrap of the same fabric as the item.

Buttons on the legs.

1. Thread your needle with double thread and make a few backstitches in the area where you are going to sew on the button.

2. Make a few stitches, passing the needle and thread through the hole in the button shank to the place where you are sewing the button. Secure the thread in the same way as you did when sewing on a button with two holes. If your pattern does not have markings for buttons on the clasp of the product, do it yourself using a ruler and a marker pencil.

How to sew a button using a sewing machine?